Vinfolio Blog

As my husband, who hails from Southern France, put up a new awning in our back garden to provide some much needed shade from the heat, I thought it would be a perfect opportunity to open a rosé with dinner that reminded him of home. Since I had recently raided the Vinfolio wine store to stock up on my favorite summer whites and rosés, we thought we’d do a little taste test. I found a spicy crab and preserved lemon pasta dish in the recent issue of Gourmet.  It has some bold elements which call for a rosé with character and a little more weight, so we decided to test the three rosés I had brought home to see which paired best.

The wines:

2006 Mas de Gourgonnier Les Beaux de Provence Rosé ($9.94 on sale)
Discreet nose of red fruits with a hint of floral, lively acidity and a delicate dry finish. This wine was more enjoyable on its own as a refreshing pre-dinner sipper. It had a hard time holding up to the Asian spice in the sauce and showing its own throughout the dish.

2006 Mourgues du Gres Les Galets Rosés, Costieres de Nimes, VF 90 ($9.50 on sale)
Deep rose color with bright cherry and red fruits on the nose – very aromatic, more full-bodied on the palette with a smooth finish. The soft lush fruit really held up against the spice but could have used a little more acidity to cleanse the palette at the end. We liked this wine on its own and with the dish.

Bastide Blanche Bandol Rosé (currently out of stock)
Very pale rosé color; subtle hints of strawberry and red currant - a more structured wine with good acidity and a polished, dry finish. This was the best match to the dish. It had enough fruit to counterbalance the spice and great acidity that held up all the way through, bringing out the subtleties of the dish like the sweet/salty flavor of the preserved lemon. This wine was made for food and was less interesting on its own.

Given the recent popularity of rosé, I think it is worth trying out a few to get an idea of whether you want the "summer sipper" or a well-made classic like Bandol to serve with an elegant summer meal.  There are so many regions and varietals to choose from; you really need to taste what is out there.  

The key to great Corton-Charlemagne is the terroir. The Chardonnay grown here is unrivaled due to the combination of exposure and soils of white marl with high clay content over a hard limestone rock base. The result is an incredible combination of breed, class, and intensity underpinned by tremendous minerality and racy acidity. Corton-Charlemagne rivals the focused minerality of grand cru Chablis and the elegance and finesse of Chevalier-Montrachet. 

The appellation of Corton-Charlemagne encompasses three communes. It is often referred to as the Hill of Corton as the orientation and exposure affects the specific character and style:

• Ladoix-Serrigny: 6.5 ha facing primarily east and southeast, can be heavy
• Aloxe-Corton: 48.57 ha south facing which favors ripening (important in leaner years), softer and develops sooner
• Pernand-Vergelesses: 17.25 ha that swing all the way around to the west; the soil is rockier and particularly rich in flint so the wines from Pernand have more acidity and are generally more austere than those from Aloxe or Ladoix.  In particularly ripe years, the Corton-Charlemagnes from Pernand are fresher and livelier.  The wines of Bonneau du Martray, Dubreuil-Fontaine, Laleure-Piot, Rapet, and Roumier are all either largely or completely from Pernand.  All of these wines need more cellar time.

Bonneau du Martray is one of the leading estates and one of the most consistent Domaines for Corton-Charlemagne.  Bonneau du Martray also is the leading principal proprietor with 9.5 hectares.  The 2004 white burgundy vintage is a classic vintage for Burgundy lovers who love terroir. The wines are highly aromatic and show precise minerality. 

A good Corton-Charlemagne needs 8 to 10 years of ageing to show its richness and true potential.  While the 2004 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne is much too young to drink now, this wine will be highly cherished by the smart enthusiast and collector who cellar this smart buy.

2004 Bonneau du Martray - Corton-Charlemagne  $117     In Stock

BH 93               Drink 2012+

Now that this is in bottle, it's even better than I originally thought with a still reserved yet elegant nose of white flower, green apple, pear and natural spice and wet stone notes that introduce detailed, fresh and wonderfully intense flavors that are exceptionally clean and bright, culminating in a bone dry finish replete with superb minerality. This is not as dense as the '05 but the purity here is really something to see and as noted last year, it's sufficiently structured that it will need the better part of a decade to reach its apogee. Note that there was a trace of reduction on the nose and this would benefit from 30 minutes in a decanter should you elect to try one anytime soon.  -Allen Meadows, Burghound Issue 27, 3rd Quarter, 2007 

The mind tends to wander towards Burgundy when thinking about 30 year old Chardonnays; divine Montrachet or Corton-Charlemagne is evoked. There are few opportunities in California for the same experience. At a tasting a few years back, a small group of wine junkies and aficionados had the opportunity to try 32-year-old California Chardonnay and Pinot in a three-decade vertical tasting. The event was hosted by the dedicated staff of Hanzell Vineyards and Winery in Sonoma, led by Winemaker Emeritus Bob Sessions and wife Jean Arnold.

The vineyards of this enduring and historically important wine estate were first planted in 1953. It took four leaves (years of vine growth) before the fruits of labor came forth to set a new standard for California whites. The first release of Hanzell Chardonnay was in 1957, long before boutique hand-crafting was identified as a necessity for honed finesse and refined maturity.

So, back to the tasting. I enjoy youthful Hanzell, young here defined as having spent only 10 years in bottle. A 10-year-old Hanzell shows medium gold hue with floral and often complex tropical notes, and is full-bodied with great acidity and balance. These wines are big. After 20 years, looking at an ’86, the Hanzell Chardonnay still retains floral hints and more ripe tropical notes, taking on more concentrated butterscotch and honey on the nose. At 30 years, specifically in the ’75, the wines are still full and rich, with tropical notes and more toasted hazelnut and butterscotch. A richer, more lengthy finish also rewards the patience of a true collector, with the ’75 still showing. It doesn’t get any better than this. Contact the winery before your next trip to California Wine Country. The property is breath-taking.   

The 2005 Hanzell Chardonnay ($65) is now on pre-arrival at Vinfolio. We anticipate receiving four cases at the beginning of May. Enjoy!!

Late spring marks Outdoor BBQ Season even though some parts of the country are waiting for the thaw! Serious BBQ deserves well thought-out wine pairings to meld with bold flavors from spicy shrimp on the barbee, to dry-rubbed pulled pork. BBQ preparations are not just about the US, though. Let’s face it, the grill is a cook’s tool of choice worldwide! The popularity of Korean BBQ or Jamaican Jerk Chicken can’t be denied. Why not think outside of the box and travel the globe when making savvy wine pairings? Be creative, but follow proven pairing tips.  

• Stick with whites and reds that display forward fruit on the palate but not cloying sweetness. Spice and a touch of sweetness go a long way in the pairing equation!

• Choose table and sparkling wines that are naturally higher in acid. Assertive flavors need cleansing acidity to provide a natural balancing act.

• Avoid high alcohol wines. Extra spice and high octane can be cumbersome! There are some exceptions, such as Californian Zinfandel, which sometimes teeters on 17% alcohol. Just make sure you’re sipping the old-vine with gobs of berry fruit!

• Toasty oak should be in the chip form for your smoker, not in the bottle. Zesty foods will only make your wine taste like a 2x4! Oak should be minimal; wines fermented in stainless steel are favored.

• Tannic reds should be left in your cellar to mellow! Think light to medium-bodied reds, which translate into lower alcohol wines that are more versatile for food pairing.

When it comes to pairing wines with BBQ, I have trouble sitting still in my home state of California, especially with the diversity of flavor possibilities out there! So let’s take a ride through some ideal matches!

Papaya-Jalapeno Glazed Mahi Mahi - A crisp white with ample fruit and zest are critical here. I love to turn to Italy for an array of native cultivar, from Prosecco to Falanghina. Italian whites maybe the most under-appreciated white category in the world.

NV Sorelle Bronca - Prosecco di Valdobbiadene, Veneto, Italy ($15) - Prosecco makes for a wonderful budget-beater, usually coming below $15 per bottle. The Sorrelle makes for the perfect palate cleanser.

2006 Ca Dei Frati - Lugana I Frati, Veneto, Italy ($20) - Lugana is a noble clone of Trebbiano and has more length and body than many others, with all the mouth-watering acidity expected from this high acid varietal.

Slow & Low Cooked Pulled Pork - BBQ enthusiasts always have a good recipe for slow-cooked Pork Shoulder and Pork Butt in their arsenal. I find Spanish Tintos versatile and ideal companions where savory spice meets tender melt in your mouth shredded meat.

2005 Maurodos – Prima Tinto, Toro, Spain ($18) - Many Tintos from Toro can be too hard edged, but the Prima goes to the head of the class for accessibility, steering away from heavy oak. The sweet and spicy core of Tempranillo and Grenache fruit ranks high for personality and flavor.

2004 Pago Alto Landon – Manchuela, Castilla y Leon, Spain ($29) - The Manchuela D.O. is coming on strong for its blends. Bold, dark black fruit flavors coat the palate to finish with silky and supple notes.

Flank Steak with Chimichurri Sauce - “Barons of the Grill” always get inspired by this Argentine classic! Chimichurri Sauce brings on that piquant element that makes you want a few more slices. I find that Montepulciano from the Marche in S.E. Italy and Argentine Malbec are perfect steak wines, as they can handle the fresh herbal and vinegar notes of the Chimichurri.

2005 Nicodemi – ‘Notari’ Montepulciano d'Abruzzo ($15) - You want hearty flavors from your Italian varietals? Well, move over Sangiovese! Montepulciano from Abruzzo has made strides in the last twenty years. The Nicodemi Notari delivers the goods with a brooding meatiness that matches a meat lover’s appetite.

2005 Mendel – Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina ($23) - This 100% Malbec typifies the category! A lot of boldness for the price, and its dark saturated hue means all business without the clumsy new oak! Elements of smoke and supple blackberry in the core are a winning formula to handle the grill marks.

Hawaiian Hoisin-Glazed Baby Back Pork Ribs - I worked in restaurants in Hawaii for several years and these ribs top any pupu menu list. A super-spicy BBQ rib will be too hot for most reds, but the Hosin glaze has some restraints without losing the flavor. Big, jammy fruit notes are needed for this pairing!

2006 Broc - Vine Starr Red, California ($25) - A Zinfandel blend (67% Zin, 30% Syrah, 2% Petite Sirah & 1% Mourvedre) that packs it in with oodles of boysenberry and cranberry notes. A no brainer for Pork Ribs!

2006 Teusner – Joshua, Barossa Valley, Australia ($24) - The land of Oz has a treasure trove of perfect pairing BBQ wines, but be careful with renditions that have new oak. The Teusner Joshua doesn’t see an ounce and we like it that way! Close your eyes and you might think you’re drinking a Cotes du Rhone on steroids! The cuvee is comprised of 65% Grenache, 25% Mataro and 10% Shiraz. The dark and expressive black and blue fruit laced with pepper makes for an afternoon BBQ delight!

Some of my most memorable meals have been Tasting Menus – wine-pairing dinners in which I’ve turned the reins over to the sommelier to lead me in pairing directions that I probably wouldn’t have traveled on my own, and I can honestly say that I’ve never been disappointed. I’m a big fan of variety, and pairing menus offer just that. Last weekend my wife, some friends, and I spent a wonderful Saturday evening dining at the fine restaurant La Toque, in Rutherford (Napa Valley). Each of us ordered the wine pairing with the 5-course tasting menu. We unanimously agreed that the meal and the wine pairings could not have been better. The sommelier, Scott Tracy, was extremely knowledgeable on the wines he was serving, and explained the provenance of each one prior to pouring. Here is the menu for that night along with the wine pairings. I’ve included Vinfolio selections that can easily substitute for each pairing wine. Perhaps you will be inspired to create your own wine-pairing meal at home!

Substitute: 2005 Terlano - Pinot Bianco Vorberg

Substitute: 2006 Knoll, Emmerich - Gruner Veltliner Ried Loibenberg Smaragd

Substitute: 2006 Vieux Donjon - Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc

Substitute: 2005 Maldonado - Chardonnay Los Olivos Vineyard

Substitute: 2004 Fiddlehead - Pinot Noir 728 Fiddlestix Vineyard

Substitute: 2006 Sineann - Pinot Noir Covey Ridge Vineyard

Substitute: 2004 Phelps, Joseph - Cabernet Sauvignon Backus Vineyard

Substitute: 2006 Hirsch - Pinot Noir Estate

Substitute: 2006 Ojai - Viognier Ice Wine Roll Ranch

As I live in Napa Valley, it seems that you often run into winemakers at every corner. Some of the typical occurrences include: meeting them at a sponsored wine event, standing behind them at the supermarket checkout, or sitting beside them at a local restaurant. I've met quite a few winemakers since I've lived in Napa, but the most memorable ones include several women whose winemaking style, palate and grace have stood out over the past decade.  They have raised the bar by bringing "cult wines" to the forefront of collectors' wine lists.

One winemaker that I especially remember meeting and whose wines I had the chance to pour was Heidi Peterson Barrett.  A gracious smile and vibrant personality are a few descriptors that come to mind of our first meeting.  Moreover, Heidi has been characterized by her passionate drive to create beautiful, elegant and timeless wines. At that first tasting, I remember Heidi was featuring the new vintages of her private label called La Sirena and I have been a fan ever since.  

Heidi Peterson Barrett
(La Sirena, Amuse Bouche, Paradigm, Barbour Vineyards, Jones Family, Showket Vineyards,
Lamborn Family, Revana Family and Lynch)

Past clients include Dalla Valle, Screaming Eagle, Grace Family, Vineyard 29, Oakford Vineyards. In addition, Heidi has done a limited amount of consulting work for Diamond Creek Winery and Niebaum-Coppola (Rubicon). Robert Parker has dubbed Heidi Barrett "the first lady of wine."

2004 Amuse Bouche – Proprietary Red (IWC 91, WA 90) $299
2003 Amuse Bouche – Proprietary Red (WS 93, WA 92) $325

These days there are many winemaking styles and women are being noticed not only for their skill as winemakers, but also as vineyard managers and at all levels of winemaking. In addition to Heidi Peterson Barrett, below are some other great “women of California wine” that you should know more about and whose wines you should experience.

Celia Masyczek (Mah-chess-key)
(Scarecrow, Husic, Keever, Cornerstone, Rocca Family, Hollywood & Vine, Kelly Fleming)

2004 Husic – Cabernet Sauvignon (VF 94) $120
2005 Keever – Cabernet Sauvignon (VF 92-94) $68
2004 Rocca Family – Cabernet Sauvignon Yountville (VF 95, WS 93) $70
2003 Cornerstone – Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain (VF 92, WS 88) $85

Kathy Joseph (Fiddlehead Cellars) Santa Barbara, CA

2004 Fiddlehead – Pinot Noir 728 Fiddlestix Vineyard (VF 92, IWC 89) $42

Helen Mawson (WINTER, Hundred Acre (Assistant Winemaker))

2004 Hundred Acre – Cabernet Sauvignon Kayli Morgan Vineyard (WA 94, IWC 94) $275

I admit to being a bit of a history geek, but don’t usually advertise that I am a war/battle site geek too.  Locales of devastation and fighting have somehow gotten worked in to most of the vacations I’ve taken in my adult life.  I also like wine, and since Alsace tempts two of my interests, it was the perfect place to spend a few days of my trip to France last November.  A region torn between frequent sparring partners France and Germany, and influenced in language and culture by both, Alsace holds a special, if not especially appreciated, place in the world of French wine.

Situated along the Rhine River, which forms its eastern boundary, Alsace has been taken and re-taken by the armies of its neighbors since the 9^th century; this has impacted its wine noticeably in the modern era.  As a region of France, Alsace was “northerly,” and produced wines of high acidity and low sugar, the better to blend with grapes from warmer southern regions that could get higher sugar levels.  As a region of Germany, Alsace was “southerly” and expected to produce wines higher in sugar to blend with the more acidic grapes grown in the north.  Because of this back-and-forth of history and war, Alsace wasn’t able to establish its own true style until much later than the rest of both France and Germany.  Though farmers by tradition, the grape growers of Alsace often had to turn to other trades and livelihoods to survive during tough times.  Vineyards, not a priority, were not kept up, which has been another factor in the inconsistency of Alsacian wine.

All is not bleak, though, as in recent decades more attention (and money) has been paid to vineyards and winemaking practices. The region gained AOC status in 1967 and is unique in that varietal names are on the labels, making the wines that much more accessible to Americans. Not only are the wines themselves inviting, but the region welcomes visitors with open arms and amazing food (if you like pork!). In the small villages lining the wine route, it’s perfectly normal to knock on winemakers’ doors; you’ll be invited right in to taste the domaine’s renditions of Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, or Muscat! These drop-in producers might not be the pinnacle of quality, but chatting in broken French/English in someone’s kitchen is always a good way to get to know an area.

I had both the formal tasting appointment and drop-in experiences during my time in Alsace. For a fun bottle to drink with lunch, I stuck to unknown names and labels, exploring whatever was on the restaurant menu. For the purpose of buying higher quality bottles to bring home, the top producers didn’t fail to impress. My favorite producers were ones with whom we had scheduled appointments: Hugel & Fils, Marcel Diess, and Ernest Burn. For lower priced but very tasty wines, I picked up a Riesling from Bott Freres and a Pinot Gris from Kuehn. Whether dry or sweet, Alsacian wines offer an easy-to-understand, deliciously refreshing alternative to more standard summer whites.

Click here to see Vinfolio's current wine selections from Alsace. 

Among the most unique bottlings in the wine market is the Reserva Especial from Vega Sicilia. For several decades, the Bodega has blended two or three different vintages of their Unico - their vintage bottling produced only in the finest years - to create a non-vintage wine in much the same way the Champagne houses create their cuvees. The aim here is consistency between releases.

Vega Sicilia bottles a Reserva Especial in the majority of years, and each particular cuvee produced contains a specific blend of Unico vintages. For example, the NV Reserva Especial released in 1993 contains Unico vintages from 1970 and 1972. Furthermore, the 1997 bottling of the Reserva Especial is a blend of Unico from 1981, 1986 and 1990. There is a lot number on the bottom left of the label that denotes the bottling year, either by stating the vintage outright, or ending with a two-digit year such as “026/97” signifying a 1997 bottling. You’d never notice the code if I didn’t just tell you where it was…

If you’re familiar with Vega Sicilia, you know these are incredibly age-worthy and collectible wines...so you’re bound to see Reserva Especial traded on the market. Yet retailers refer to it as simply “Reserva Especial,” as if it is a single bottling – like 1982 Latour – which it is not. There can be years of bottle age differentiating two Reservas, and the vintages within the blends can be even further apart. Some are young, some are mature; some bottles have been cellared, some just released. My point? These are different wines and should be treated as such in the market.

We just secured a nice collection of Vega Sicilia Reserva Especial and have exerted the effort to note the release years of each bottling. It will assist the collector in distinguishing between wines that are inherently different and of unique character.

NV Vega Sicilia - Unico Reserva Especial (1990 bottling) $325

NV Vega Sicilia - Unico Reserva Especial (1993 bottling) $325

NV Vega Sicilia - Unico Reserva Especial (1996 bottling) $325

NV Vega Sicilia - Unico Reserva Especial (1997 bottling) $325