I’ve heard, and sometimes sided with, the argument that narrowly declares Sangiovese the only real Tuscan grape. Without a doubt Sangiovese best expresses the Tuscan region, but “Super-Tuscans” have been gaining their “street cred” as formidable newcomers. Recently, I’ve been scanning the landscape of these Cabernet-based blends which, I think, deserve every bit as much respect as the famed locals. So who’s making the best non-Sangiovese-based wines in Tuscany?
The crown may go to Castello dei Rampolla, producer of two cultish, but relatively affordable bottlings: 2004 Sammarco ($65), (65-90% Cabernet, the rest Sangiovese), and 2004 Vigne d’Alceo ($165), (typically 85% Cabernet, the rest Petit Verdot or sometimes Sangiovese). Of Super-Tuscan producers, none are more soulful and genuine than those made by this low-tech operation. Despite the flavor profile that calls to mind Pauillac and Graves with its tobacco, mineral, and cedar, these are unmistakably Tuscan, which is something to try to wrap your head and palate around.
As 2004 was an ideal vintage in Tuscany, it makes sense to pay attention to the best. A recently-consumed bottle of the 1985 Sammarco proves these wines age beautifully and gracefully…if you can keep from pulling the corks. So add Castello dei Rampolla to your short-list of Tuscan go-tos. Dare I say they speak more of Tuscany than many Brunellos out there.
