Yet again I return to why I love White Burgundy. I think it comes down to the following five factors:
- Chardonnay has an amazing diversity of expression from steely Chablis to creamy Meursault.
- There are great examples at all price points (not always true with domestic Chardonnay).
- With age, white Burgundies develop complexity and nuttiness, but still keep an edge of acidity. They also have longer life spans than domestic Chardonnay.
- There is so much to learn about growing sites and vineyards - from villages, lieu dit, and Premier Cru, to the ultimate Grand Cru vineyards. Thanks to Burghound’s Quarterly Newsletter, I can learn more about these properties and compare my tasting notes with those of a true specialist.
- French vineyard names are fun to pronounce and sometimes have amusing translations such as Chablis “Les Grenouilles” (frogs), St Aubin Les Murgers des “Dents de Chien” 1er Cru (dog’s teeth), Meursault “Sous le Dos d'Ane” 1er Cru (below the donkey’s back).
Recently I enjoyed a bottle of
2005 Charles Audoin Marsannay Blanc which I thought was a great every day drinking wine, and would rate it 90 points. It had a briny nose and a palate displaying ripe apple, citrus and minerals. As the wine warmed in the glass, it displayed subtle notes of nectarine, vanilla and toast (
pain grillé). The relatively weighty body and texture contributed to its medium plus length. This selection made me take a second look at Marsannay, a new and as yet, little-known appellation (which also sources fruit for
rouge and
rose versions).
