Unquestionably, one of rarest and most collectible wines in the world made by the Godfather of Burgundy!
We buy and sell wine everyday. Today, my eyes turn to two of the most cherished wines in the world: 1993 Jayer, Henri - Vosne-Romanee Cros Parantoux 1er Cru and 1999 Jayer, Henri - Vosne-Romanee Cros Parantoux Reserve 1er Cru. Henri passed away last year, but his legend and influence on Burgundy and the wine world is infinite.
I have tasted and spoken with Allen Meadows, of Burghound.com, about the merits of the 1993 and 1999 Red Burgundy vintages and it is clear that the finest wines may equal the 1978s. To really understand Cros Parantoux and the infamous and revered Henri Jayer, I turn to Allen:
Cros Parantoux is a premier cru situated in Vosne-Romanee and is now one of the most celebrated wines in all of Burgundy….Cros Parantoux is on almost everyone’s very short list of premier crus that merit elevation to grand cru status. It is a small vineyard, measuring only 1.01 hectares (2.5 acres) and there are only two owners…
Cros Parantoux sits directly above Richebourg and its northern sub-climat of Verroilles ou Richebourg along its entire eastern exposure...It is a relatively cool site with very shallow and rocky limestone-rich soil that produces, like Richebourg, exceptionally long-lived wines, partially because the coolness of the site permits the grapes to retain their acidity and partially because of the rocky soil, which also tends to promote longevity…The meager soil and cool climate does not naturally foster high yields, which is one reason that the wines of Cros Parantoux almost always have good concentration…
In 1951, Jayer acquired his first parcel of vines in Cros Parantoux from a M. Roblot. Jayer explained in great detail how difficult it was to clear the brush and artichokes away, saying “the rocks were huge, the size of cars and we had to dynamite them. I used over 400 charges to soften up the soil enough to plant vines… But it wasn’t until 1976 when Jayer bottled the entire harvest himself even though he did not commercialize it under his own label. The first vintage where he bottled everything for his own account was 1978.
Jayer had two children, both girls, and neither was interested in following in his footsteps so in 1986, he took on his nephew by marriage, Emmanuel Rouget, to help him out and Rouget released his first wine the same year. Jayer slowly gave up more and more of his vineyards to Rouget but remained involved in all aspects of the vineyard and vinification work for both his own and his nephew’s account. Jayer continued this practice until 1995 when he officially retired and it was his last vintage where he released all of his wines. However, he retained 40% of his Cros Parantoux vines(28.3 ares) and leased the rest to Rouget. In 1996 came the first release of a Cros Parantoux labeled as a Reserve, which according to Jayer didn’t signify any change in style or vinification, only that this was something he had done for himself. There have been a series of Reserve Cros’ between 1996 and 2001 and in 2002, 100% of the Cros went to Rouget.
I agree with Jayer’s description of Cros Parantoux as he calls it a “true vin de garde capable of 50 years of evolution with no problem. There is power and elegance in a good Cros with an underlying minerality and racy acidity. The upslope position and cool microclimate preserves the acidity and makes for a complete wine. Everyone finds something to like in Cros Parantoux but it really requires 10 to 15 years for it to be at its best.”
(Allen Meadows, “Progress Report: A Complete History of Cros Parantoux,” Burghound Issue #13, Q1 2004)
1993 Jayer, Henri - Vosne-Romanee Cros Parantoux 1er Cru $2,995
BH 95 Drink 2008-2025
From the May, 2003 tasting: Massively constructed and still incredibly primary in every respect with its blend of spice and black pinot fruit plus a pungent, penetrating mineral firmness and vibrant acidity. The tannins coat the mouth yet they are ripe and the wine exudes balance and harmony. While this is stunning now, it is nowhere close to ready. Check back in 2008 though I suspect the 93 Cros will still be several years short of its peak as this has 30 years of aging potential. One of the truly great wines of the vintage.
1999 Jayer, Henri - Vosne-Romanee Cros Parantoux Reserve 1er Cru $3,495
BH 93 Drink 2011+
An expressive, ripe and elegant nose of Vosne style spice, moderate oak and a mix of earth, minerals and violets leads to rich, round and impressively precise flavors that deliver serious punch and excellent depth. I very much like the overall sense of harmony and fine balance here. If I were nit picking, and I am, there is just a bit more oak-influence on the mid-palate than I might otherwise prefer (and more than the Rouget version) but this is a niggle and not a serious issue. This should age well and Jayer lovers will definitely be pleased.
