In a hot vintage like 2003, people tend to assume wines aren’t going to be agreeable, balanced and that wines might be disjointed or as hot as the respective summer. The ripeness achieved in such vintages can certainly be overt and challenging when handled by those lacking deftness in their winemaking, but skilled producers can almost always achieve success.
Freakish weather makes for atypically-styled wines, but use this to your advantage. The 2003 Barolos and Barbarescos have rich fruit and can be drunk very early in their lives, while vintages such as 1996, 1999, 2001 are babies and require years of beauty sleep. There is plenty of wonderful Nebbiolo fruit to be had in 2003 and particularly with the more traditional producers, don’t be afraid to lay some of these bottles down either. Vinfolio’s buying team is tasting through offerings from the vintage and bringing in only the finest examples. I’ve tried the Damilano, Spinetta, Scavino, Vietti, and Cavallotto wines so far, and they are noteworthy in their quality. If you want one of the best, for safe aging, or a sexy near-term Nebbiolo experience, the Giacomo Conterno Cascina Francia (94 WA) $89 shouldn’t be missed. This wine is a stunner.
