I recently hosted a dinner party during which we paired a crisp white Rioja, 2006 Bodegas Ostatu Blanco Rioja Alavesa, with various appetizers including prosciutto wrapped cantaloupe, salumi, and several hard cheeses. Although I often enjoy Rioja’s Tempranillo-based reds, it is a far rarer occurrence for me to try the whites. The Ostatu Blanco, made from 90% Viura and 10% Malvasia grapes, had a very clean, unoaked flavor profile recalling citrus, tangerine and mineral aromas, as well as herbs and salty green apple on the palate. The main grape Viura (also known as Macabeo in the sparkling Spanish wine Cava), is the most widely planted white grape variety in northern Spain which displays a natural aromatic freshness. As was the case with the Ostatu, wines made from Viura are dry, medium in acidity, and display floral and nutty characteristics. The Ostatu grapes came from 60-70 year old vines that grow in chalky, clay soils. We were all pleased with the crisp flavors from the Rioja Blanco which continued to serve as a great pair to grilled shrimp skewers with pineapple and bell pepper. The lush fruit on the palate served as a compliment to the tropical notes on the skewer, with just the right body weight to not be overpowering. What makes this wine even more attractive is its reasonable price at a mere $14 a bottle.
For the main course we enjoyed grilled steak and asparagus with a magnum of 2001 Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou. I had poured the bottle into a magnum-sized Riedel O Series decanter at least an hour beforehand, to allow the wine to breathe. The results were wonderful! We enjoyed the soft cassis and earthy flavors that emerged, which melded seamlessly with the smoky, juicy flavors of our tenderloin. As James Suckling describes, the 2001 Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou has “loads of crushed berries on the nose, with hints of flowers and minerals. Very aromatic. Full-bodied, with fine tannins and a long, cappuccino and berry aftertaste. Really refined.” (Wine Spectator, March, 31, 2004)
The meal concluded with a serving of ripe black cherries and dark chocolate, whose flavors served to highlight even more of the red fruit and silky texture of Bordeaux. If anything, I think the Bordeaux could develop a more subtle bouquet with increased bottle age, but it was still a delight to taste in its early years. In the end, the evening was a success and epicurean treat for all.
