2005 Monastero Suore Cistercensi – Coenobium, Latium White $15
An old-world wonder with a blessing from the Cistercian order graces our site in the form of a Latium Bianco. Usually Latium wines are lack-luster with light quaffers from the Frascati D.O.C leading the pack. However, I felt compelled to highlight an amazing white for the price with an intriguing bio. ‘Coenobium’ denotes a community of monks, although it’s a duo of sisters from a Cistercian monastery in Vitorchiano north of Rome that oversees the production of this heavenly white. Consulting and technical assistance came from Giampero Bea, noted Umbrian vintner and son of the famed Paolo Bea in the Montefalco district.
I noted how this wine has been well-received locally in the San Francisco Bay area with some of the finer cafés and Italian themed restaurants serving the 2005 by the glass. This is not a gimmick wine, just good old fashion winemaking with no bells and whistles. A somewhat traditional Latium blend of Verdicchio, Trebbiano and Grechetto, the ‘Coenobium’ is more viscous on the palate than a Frascati (Malvasia-Trebbiano blend) and more depth on the finish than neighboring Orvieto at the mid-value price point of $15.00! It’s my favorite, bankers white for under $20.00 on the Vinfolio site right now. The ‘Coenobium’ or ‘Nun’s Wine’ is the only wine produced on the property. Giampero Bea’s assistance has paid off tremendously encouraging the monastery to move towards 100% organic growing practices. The grapes are fermented in stainless steel tanks, but for added texture, grape skins are left on for an extended soak and the final product is unfined and unfiltered.
Presently, the 2005 release is hitting its stride on the palate; all systems are a go, a divine synergy of the parts. The Trebbiano and Verdicchio offer heady, honeysuckle-floral notes, piquant-citrus, herbs and the nerve of tangy citrus fruits. The Grechetto, which is also prized in Umbria’s Orvieto district fills out the back end with viscous weight, streaks of minerals and succulent honeydew melon. I recommend drinking this balanced and layered white just above cellar temperature. Avoid over chilling to the ‘numb stage’! The Coenobium would pair heavenly with a fall menu of braised endive, fristo misto and whole roasted snapper stuffed with fresh herbs and fennel.
The ‘Sisters’ would probably say: ”Alzare un bicchiere e piacere!” (Raise a glass and enjoy!)
For more suggestions on Italian wines, refer to Laura's review of The Golden Glass tasting event as well as my varietal profile of Montefalco’s Mighty Sagrantino.
