So you want to plan a trip to wine country but you’re tired of Napa Valley – the back up of cars starts at Yountville, throngs of people at every tasting room, same varietals that become indistinguishable after the fourth winery and the high price of tasting at some of the top producers – no thanks.
We were a group of five, regular consumers with very different tastes in wine. We decided to try to take the stress out of visiting wine country, and with a little pre-planning, we had one of the best days we could remember (and it wasn’t because we “over-sampled” on the previous trips). Here is why:
- Transportation - the best way for all of us to enjoy the day was to have someone else drive so we hired a limo. Ok, that is not going to be an option for everyone but give it some thought and do some research on other options like shuttle buses or smaller group tours outside of Napa. If you have a friend willing to drive (sans drinking), even better.
- Itinerary – many people just like to “wing it” when they are in wine country, but having a few pre-planned stops in nearby appellations is going to give you a chance to see more than going up one road and stopping every 20 feet. Having a scheduled appointment for a tasting or a tour (most wineries have web sites with all the info) will give you a starting or an ending point. Unless you want to turn your day into a pub crawl, I recommend visiting no more than 3-4 wineries.
- Wineries – Sonoma was the best choice to avoid the heavy weekend Napa crowds and since one person had a specific request to visit a Pinot Noir producer in the Russian River area, I looked for other small producers in the Dry Creek area who focused on other varietals. Since we would head south to Carneros by day’s end, we found a winery just north of Sonoma (in Bennett Valley) that had a beautiful outdoor terrace overlooking their lavender fields. Try to get some recommendations from your local wine retailer if you want to make a list of places to research before you go.
- Tasting – while there are very few places that offer free tastings, Sonoma’s appellations tend to be cheaper ($5 for 5-6 wines) and offer more variety of (not just chard, merlot and cab). You don’t have to get out your wine journal; rather, use the winery tasting list to note basic thoughts and whether it is worth purchasing. Also, if you like the wines and engage the staff by asking questions, they sometimes bring out bottles that are not on the tasting menu. You may get to try something really special.
Our Itinerary – Unti, Gary Farrell, Matanzas Creek
Unti Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley
Talk about a gem, we loved this place! Mick and Linda Unti have taken on the family vineyard started by Mick’s father George. They grow some of the more recognizable varietals in the Dry Creek area, but they are known for their Grenache and Barbera, as well other Mediterranean varietals that are perfectly suited to the climate. They even have several winemaker fans of their Grenache and Syrah: Novy, Renard, and Ogden Olson make their own Unti Vineyard cuvées.
The first thing you notice is the modest and functional tasting room and storage area (ageing vats and all), and then their friendly staff takes you through their current wine selection (free!). We were lucky enough to taste and buy some of their Rosé of Grenache – a delicate, well structured rosé with hints of strawberry, finishing with a crisp, fresh finish. This beautifully made wine could rival some of the best Provencal rosés. Perhaps it has something to do with the fact that their winemaker, Sébastien Pochan, is from Southern France.
We also tried the Barbera, Grenache, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Syrah, Segromigno and Rhone blend. All the wines were very well balanced and flavorful. The Barbera was juicy, youthful and delicious, while the Grenache had extra layers on the nose and a palate whose complexity reminded me of Chateaneuf. The Petite Sirah and Syrah showed good fruit, tannin and an earthy quality that everyone thought worked well together. Each wine had very unique characteristics. The Grenache, Barbera and Petite Sirah tied for the most “thumbs up” - 5 out of 5 for each. The Rosé and the Zinfandel ran a close second.
It is pretty clear that the folks at Unti are all about growing the best possible grapes and making really good wine.
Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, Russian River Valley
This stop was a special request for one member of the group. Perched atop a hill, the tasting room has a panoramic view of the Russian River Valley. The winery has a long history of making Pinot Noir from some of the most well known vineyards in the area – Rochioli and Allen. They have branched out to Cabernet and Zinfandel, but their strengths lie with Pinot and Chardonnay.
This tasting room was a little more up-market and a bit busier, but the ambiance was still relaxing, not noisy or overcrowded. There was plenty of staff on hand to offer tasting options: a Premier Tasting ($10) featuring single vineyard Pinot, Chard and Cab, or their Current Releases ($5) that included main varietals plus Zinfandel and Sauvignon Blanc.
We were all very impressed with the 2004 Chardonnay from the Rochioli-Allen Vineyards – it was a pretty and delicate with subtle notes of pear, honeysuckle, mineral and oak – overall an elegant wine. They also had a 2006 Sonoma County/Redwood Ranch Sauvignon Blanc with bright citrus fruit and crisp acidity.
As usual, the Pinot Noir showed well with the 2004 Starr Ridge Vineyard as our favorite – ripe cherry fruit, a little bit of earth and a smooth finish. The 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County was balanced, but delicate on the fruit and tannin. The Zinfandel was the least favorite of the group lacking flavor and balance. The Rochioli-Allen vineyard Chard was the clear winner with 5 thumbs up with the Sauvignon Blanc and the Pinot coming in a close second with 4 thumbs up each.
After the tasting we sat outside to enjoy the great weather and beautiful view. We could see why this was a popular stop.
Matanzas Creek Winery, Bennett Valley
After a quick lunch and tour of the town of Healdsburg, we headed toward Bennett Valley located in the northern part Sonoma Valley. The winery is set back from the road, closer to the hills and flanked by beautiful lavender gardens. You really get a relaxed feeling coming into the winery by its nice view overlooking the valley and gardens. While Gary Farrell had a more refined tasting room, Matanzas Creek made you feel right at home. The room was modest and while they sold their own lavender-based products, you got the feeling they were more focused on the wine than the marketing.
I had heard good things about the wines – well made, versatile and crowd pleasing. They are known for their Merlot, but the whites showed well. We all chose the basic tasting ($5) to be able to try the most varietals – Sauvignon Blanc, Chard, Rosé, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The NV Rosé – a blend of Merlot and Syrah, was interesting but a little too soft. I liked the 2005 Sauvignon Blanc – it was rich with fresh melon flavors. The 2005 Chardonnay Sonoma Valley was good – medium weight with smoke, vanilla and nice balance between fruit and acidity.
The 2005 Merlot Bennett Valley, their signature wine, had lots of blueberry and smoke on the nose with a soft mid-palate and good finish – a very versatile wine with good character. We all gave it a thumbs up and would recommend it. As it was the end of the tasting day (3:30), we got the chance to taste a few other wines that weren’t on the list. The 2001 Jackson Park Merlot was the surprise hit, whose nose offered a unique combination of cassis, earth, black olive, saddle leather and a bit more chew that would make the wine a great match for grilled lamb. We gave it 5 thumbs up along with the Bennet Valley Merlot. The Chardonnay came in second and the rest a split decision.
If you are looking for a more laid-back winery without the pretension of some of the more popular places in Russian River, this is a great stop.
