2004 Clos des Brusquières Châteauneuf du Pape, $35
We cracked open a bottle of this lovely Châteauneuf at our staff meeting last week. I was eager to try it as I’ve been a purchaser of Brusquières for several years on and off. One thing I’ve always enjoyed is that they continue to live by the ‘old ways’ and always deliver a more traditional CDP—such as the ones that used to poor freely at so many cafés both in France and elsewhere. Well, the Châteauneuf appellation has out-priced that culture now as far as “house wines” go. And if you’re still receiving the generous glass ‘top-off’ that a patron and his pretty companion occasionally receives (in France only if the waiter is in a particularly good mood), it’s likely a simple Cotes-du-Rhone.
This wine works like other café classics (such as the reds of the Loire), in that it stays light-enough on its feet while delivering great flavor impact. It’s a bright, mid-deep cherry color with just a touch of boysenberry-jam on the nose. The Grenache is classically vibrant straw-cherry-raspberry and the spices are light and easy. There is just enough herb and menthol on the mid-palate to make it slurpable, but serious enough to carry though to a nice clean finish. In the end, the wine brings more cassis, mineral and subtle licorice to the glass. Clos des Brusquières has made a traditional wine in an emblematic vintage that is utterly food-flexible. It is an excellent counterpart to either the grill or lighter fare that you might prefer in the summer heat.
