Vinfolio Blog

Recently, I’ve been very curious about the wines of Sean Thackrey. They were recommended to me by a wine guzzling friend of mine as must-trys and frankly, with a URL for his website titled www.wine-maker.net instead of the typical www.yourcompanyname here.com, I had to try it. Luckily, we brought some in to the Vinfolio wine store, so the opportunity was right around the corner.

I purchased the 2007 Thackrey Andromeda Pinot Noir with plans to pair it with a lamb dish I was preparing for the weekend. The lamb was going to be rubbed with Ras el Hanout, a North African spice I have also been curious about ever since it caught my attention on the addictive Top Chef reality television series.

The wine certainly did not disappoint. This is definitely not a wine for those looking for a lighter styled, sub-13% alcohol, elegantly crafted pinot noir. This pinot noir was THAT type of pinot that would cause some to ask – “Is there any syrah in this?”  And while the color would lead you to believe there would be, the flavor of the wine still had the pinot-nicity character you’d expect in a 100% bottled pinot noir. This wine was intensely flavored, mouth-filling, deeply layered, deeply nuanced and downright delicious. There was also exoticness in the flavor that mirrored the exotic character of the North African spiced lamb on the table. If Thackrey’s other wines are as singular and exciting as this one, I will certainly seek them out. If you’re looking for a truly unique and exciting wine, you should do yourself a favor and buy some of his wines. This one is currently sold in our wine store for $41.95.

As much as I love a Barolo that tastes like it’s from the fog-laden hills of Piedmont or a Bordeaux that came from the gravelly banks of the Medoc, I love a fruit laden wine that tastes like it’s from nowhere except its barrels. Sometimes though, I’m a little bit of a fraidy cat to admit that I like a fruity or jammy wine. This irrational feeling usually occurs around industry people, for fear of being ridiculed or having whatever credibility I have as a wine professional questioned.

This past weekend my experience with the 2008 Orin Swift Prisoner really helped allay some of the insecurities I have as well as had me appreciating good winemaking. The Prisoner was savory, juicy, lush and surprisingly light on its feet, despite its 15.1% alcohol levels and it didn’t feel sticky or sappy on the palate. The flavors, acids, tannins, oak and alcohol were integrated so well. It was a seamless wine on the palate from beginning to end. The sensory experience I had with this wine was akin to the experience of savoring one of those 12 hour braised short rib dishes. There was oodles of flavor and goodness that had me coming back to the glass for more.

So what about the fruit bomb moniker? If the wine in question is put together as well as the Prisoner, who cares?  Well, I still might care a little, but I’m working on it.

I had the pleasure of tasting this wine at home over the weekend, and as so often happens, the wine completely surprised me. 1982 was a remarkable vintage, one which I thought was overall long ready to drink, being so famously ripe and rich and almost 30 years old.  Uh-uh. Not this wine. The color was true dark red, with only a hint of fading at the rim. The scent was chocolaty and smoky, with a hint of graphite and earth overlaying concentrated red fruit. The palate was fine-grained and long, firm and still fresh, so resolutely balanced between fruit and tannin, silky texture and dry finish, that I cannot honestly say when it will begin to change into anything approaching old age. No rush on this wine – it remained largely unchanged over several hours. A real claret in the British sense of the word, good company at the dinner table, and a very classy unclassed growth that reminded me sternly but kindly that assumptions are always dangerous with wine.

We went looking for more information on Sociando Mallet, and found an excellent article in The World of Fine Wine Issue 28. We were not seeking an echo, but were delighted to read their notes on the 1982 and find their experience matched ours.

"This was the vintage that really launched Sociando-Mallet, and it is still going strong today. Deep ruby color. Impressive dpeth of fruit (even with yields at 71hl/ha!). Smoky, mineral, black-currant, and blackberry aromas. The palate is ripe and round but concentrated and intense. Powerful tannic frame. Accessible but still with great aging potential. Drink to 2018? 18"

As we sat around the tasting table in the office last Friday, an interesting question was posed. Pick the grape you hate the most and a producer who you feel makes the best version of it.
This was a very difficult question for me to answer.  It was a simple, but very thought-provoking question that gave me pause, especially since I enjoy just about anything.  Before you think of me as simple and lacking a palate, let me qualify that statement first.  My general feeling is that as long as a wine is well-made and “interesting” I can say that I enjoyed that wine, regardless of the grape or producer.

In fact, I think that anything produced is worth trying, and although there have been many wines I’ve tasted along the way that made me gag, I’ve always reaped a certain joy and satisfaction for at least knowing and tasting what a bad version of the grape was.  A big reason I got into the retail sector of the wine business is because I enjoy abundantly the exploration of wine.  
I remember celebrity chef and author Anthony Bourdain once said something along the lines of “…needing to eat and taste everything, especially the junk food, to truly appreciate fine dining caliber food.”  I imagine that in the culinary field, the more flavors you’re exposed to, whether appealing ones or repulsive ones, the better a chef you ultimately become.  The wine world is no different.  Over the years, I’ve become a better professional and have honed my palate by applying this same concept.

By the way, if you were wondering what my answer to the question was, here it is.  I’m not a big fan of sauvignon blanc, but I think Adam Tolmach of Ojai Vineyards makes a very intriguing version.  It has great intensity, weight, stony qualities and fruit flavors that skew more towards citrus rind rather than citrus juice.  The spiny acid and backbone gives you the option to put this down in the cellar for a few years as well.  Good stuff.  

Now it’s time to ask you, our loyal fans and customers, the same question – What producer makes a great wine out of the one grape you are least fond of?  We look forward to hearing your thoughts and responses!

Last week I meant to write a post about an article I read on reuters.com titled, “Vine Talk: Battle of Brunello exposes row over purity vs blends,” but it was a busy week and unfortunately I didn’t get to it. Well, this past Friday night I opened a bottle of 2001 Valdicava (98 WS, 93 WA) at a going away gathering for a friend who is moving out of the country. Tasting this wine again inspired me to take a shot at this blog post after all. It’s the fourth time I’ve had this wine over the last four years and it was just as impressive as ever. We didn’t finish the entire bottle, as this was the fifth wine of the evening, and so I had the opportunity to taste it on Saturday and again on Sunday. The wine was amazing on the first day, but evolved into something spectacular on the second and third days after opening.

Those of you who have had Valdicava’s Brunello di Montalcino know that this is a robust, muscular wine, inky black in color with excellent structure. It is most definitely a Brunello made in the modern style, in an area where, as indicated in the article, tradition and modernity are coming to a head. As the article states, acclaimed winemaker Ezio Rivella (of Castello Banfi fame) is now the president of the consorizio that oversees the production of Brunello. Yet, Mr. Rivella is considered by many of Montalcino’s traditional winemakers to be too much of a maverick. He espouses the use of modern techniques and has himself produced a Syrah and experimented with other varietal blends that are foreign to Montalcino’s winemaking traditions.  One has to ask, “is this such a bad thing?” Look at what the Super Tuscan has done for the reputation of Italian wine. And wasn’t Angelo Gaja, one of the Italian wine industry’s most respected producers, once considered a maverick and upstart?

A modern approach that also respects the best of the traditional winemaking practices of Montalcino will probably be a good thing for the region. Although nothing ever came of the recent 2004 Brunello scandal, it has impacted prices for these wines and there are still many who remain skeptical about the purity of previous vintages. So, as the article suggests, isn’t it time for two Brunello designations? One for 100% Sangiovese Grosso and one for Brunelli that is blended with other varieties? Sounds like a great idea to me, and from a marketer’s perspective it presents the opportunity to reach out to the wine buying community with an exciting new product that blends the familiar with the new.

 

I just tried the new release 2008 Beringer Chardonnay Private Reserve. I was eager to try it based on the history of the winery and this wine's following, but honestly, the high score was what initially caught my eye.

The wine is all that you'd expect from a classic California Chardonnay. It's like "comfort food" for wine - very rich and complex, with great acidity, and spicy oak. This full-bodied Chardonnay is ready to drink now, but will hold. 

Overall, I was really impressed, especially since this wine is half the price of wines of a similar profile. Plus, it received an impressive 94 points and glowing review from Parker. This is definitely worth a look!

One of the most exciting new Califoria producers, Capture Wines is already making its mark in the industry. The winery website provides a great deal of information about this fledgling operation, but here are a few of the highlights on the estate's history:

"When Mike and Carol Foster first visited the rugged slopes of Pine Mountain, they knew they had discovered the perfect home for their family and the perfect place to grow world-class Bordeaux wine grapes. They founded Capture Wines in 2008, on a parcel of land that rises 1,600 to 2,400 feet above the Alexander Valley floor - a picturesque spot with breathtaking views and a rich winegrowing heritage. Their mountain estate, historic Tin Cross Vineyards, has been planted to vine since early homesteaders first settled here in 1855. In keeping with the legacy of these pioneers, Mike and Carol - together with Vineyard Manager Glenn Alexander - work hand-in-hand with the earth, using sustainable farming methods that result in mountain-grown wine grapes of uncommon intensity. In the winery, time-honored Bordeaux methods from the renowned winemaking team of May-Britt and Denis Malbec - give these grapes their finest expression for wines of depth, nuance and complexity."

Capture Wines’ motto is “Bordeaux Tradition. Frontier Spirit.” Once you taste the wines produced by May-Britt and Denis (formerly PR Manager and Cellar Master at Chateau Latour) from the rolling hills and mountain peaks of California’s North Coast, you’ll understand why this is such an apt description. Denis produced the Chateau Latour vintages from 1994 to 1999 including some of the highest-scoring wines of recent decades. Currently, this dynamic team is creating Bordeaux-style reds from the Tin Cross Vineyards, high upon Pine Mountain, and Sauvignon Blanc from Kick Ranch and Windrem Ranch Vineyards. Although there are multiple wines from the estate currently in production, the red wines will not be released until 2011. Your only chance to try these exclusive California wines with First Growth pedigree are the recent 2009 releases of Sauvignon Blanc -the Tradition and Les Pionniers.

2009 Capture - Sauvignon Blanc Tradition - $29.95

Although only 875 cases of this wine were made, this is currently the largest production wine from Capture. Aged sur lie for 5 months, with weekly battonage, the Tradition shows subtle aromas ranging from pink grapefruit to elegant Meyer lemon and tangerine orange. The delicate scents of passion fruit, pear and gooseberry linger with the creamy texture of the wine. Try this wine well chilled, and then enjoy its shifting complexity as the wine slowly warms. The 2008 (inaugural) vintage of this wine was scored 91 points by Wine Spectator, and 92 points by International Wine Cellar

2009 Capture - Sauvignon Blanc Les Pionniers - $35.95

Considering that a scant 360 cases of this wine are produced, it is no wonder that this is a mailing list only offer. Also aged sur lie and stirred weekly, Les Pionniers shows bright fruit expression and an impressive mouth-feel. This Sauvignon Blanc has a nose rich with aromas of stone fruits such as apricots and peaches, along with a floral touch of orange blossoms. The palate has an extraordinary balance and a long finish, where the minerality declares it a “vin de terroir.”

For some more excellent information on this winery, check out these great video spots:

Forbes

NBC Bay Area

CNN International

To be the first to know about future "mailing list only" exclusives from Capture, sign up for their mailing list here.

It honestly amazes me how so many wines get left in the lurch because of the most inane reasons: 1) funny label, 2) scored below 90, 3) obscure country, 4) weird name, 5) customers are afraid to ask questions, etc. What amuses and confuses me most (in a sad, pitying sort of way) are the absolute tons of wines out there that languish on shelves and in floor stacks because someone - be it the salesperson or the client - didn't have the presence of mind to make a left instead of a right.  Don't get me wrong, there are plenty of times that I've grabbed a bottle, willing it to be the next "American Idol" of the "under-$20" contingent and been sorely and unrelentingly abused. But that doesn't mean I don’t ever take the plunge again! Part of the intrigue and greatness of wine is the fact that time and time again - despite some swing-and-misses - the overall sense that I get is that there are more and more quality wines being made that do not sacrifice the buyer to mediocrity. With that in mind, I would like to introduce a few of the misunderstood players of the "square peg in the round hole" posse.

2003 Raventos i Blanc – Cava Gran Reserva (WA 91, $35): OK. Most people think of Cava as the demon spawn of sparklers, maybe because for the longest time the frosted Hades-black Freixenet bottle dominated the market. Though, to give it its due, it's not that bad…I think Cook's or Tott's takes that 'prize.' Back to the aforementioned wine...this is going to make you a believer in the power that 'un'-Champagne grapes CAN make superb bubbles. Xarel-lo, Macabeo and Parellada - the heavenly trio of Cava grapes - join the ranks of a small amount of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Rocher des Violettes Montlouis: There are two dry options here - "La Negrette" (VF 93, $24) and "Touche-Mitaine" (VF 91, $17), both of which will go far in demonstrating that it is not only Sancerre that is Loire Valley royalty. This is Chenin Blanc at its shiny, happy best. Xavier WEISSKOPF went to school in Chablis and Beaune, trained with Louis Barroul at Saint Cosme and is set to make this 22-acre property the gem of Montlouis. These are substantial, dry Chenin Blancs capable of satisfying the most particular of white wine lovers, and will rival the stars of Vouvray, just across the river.

Henschke Semillon "Louis" (IWC 90, $18.95): Another grape that seems to get lost in the fray the moment it steps out of Bordeaux is Semillon. We drink Chardonnay from oodles of regions, Cabernet, too. Even Malbec and Grenache. What did this poor little white grape do to deserve this disrespect? So, join the SSB (Semillon Support Brigade) and swipe up a bottle of this lovely Australian version. And keep an eye out for more of this grape - mono and in blends - from South Africa and New Zealand, too.

CHANGE...is that a four-letter word, or what?! Sometimes the best change is one that is forced upon us (famous words of wisdom from my maternal unit.) Sometimes it's sly and weasels its way into the fabric of our life and all of a sudden "Wham!", we’ve got a new way of looking at or thinking of things. So it goes in the wine world. It's a many-forked path and I find that summer is the best time to be easy and breezy and just let 'change' be our friend.

In my case, it's finding all the weird, ethnically or varietally-challenged wines that nobody even gives the slightest of nods to when passing them down the aisle. But thrust one of these tasty whites, reds or rosés into an unassuming individual's hands and they will be amazed. Having just celebrated the 4th and anticipating some warmer BBQ and patio-slouching weather, here are a few favorites that will 'change' your views on summer sippers. Trust me; I’m a wine expert... ;)

2006 Bolgnani Moscato Giallo, Trentino - Italy

2007 Pampelonne Rosé, Provence - France (VF 92, $16) 

2006 Amisfield Pinot Gris, Central Otago - New Zealand (VF 91, $21)

2007 Cabriz Colheita Seleccionada Branco, Douro – Portugal ($11) : OMG! I just bought a case after tasting this. Definitely THE white of summer and will launch the word ‘change’ into the same glorious stratosphere as “Choo” or “Blahnik” does in the shoe world…with nary a pinch to your pocketbook!

2006 Valentin Bianchi Malbec "Famiglia Bianchi", Mendoza – Argentina (IWC 89, $16)

2003 Ligneres "Les Vals Rouge", Corbieres – France (VF 91, $21)

2005 Greppi 'Greppicante', Tuscany – Italy (VF 92, $24)

Some of the most affordable Syrah of excellent quality in the world comes from the finest producers of red Crozes-Hermitage in the Northern Rhone.  Yes, there are lesser Crozes but I am talking the likes of Graillot, Delas-Freres, Belle, Chapoutier, Jaboulet, and Colombier to name a few.  I pulled corks on two wines to show some friends “why” this past weekend and raised more than a few eyebrows. I watched the rest of these bottles walk out the door with a smiling request to work on more Rhone for them (I never seem to do as well on these “trades”).  Crozes-Hermitage sits on the eastern bank of the Rhone enveloping Hermitage.  As expected, Crozes is much the little brother to Hermitage but shows the classic medium to full body of Syrah with smoky, peppery, cassis, black cherry, plums, and the signature aroma of herbes de Provence.  Pair Crozes with fuller bodied meat dishes so that the wine doesn’t overpower your meal.  

2003 Delas Freres Crozes-Hermitage le Clos    $29
Opaque color, more fruit driven with gobs of black cherries, plum, earth, lavender and rosemary. Very good concentration and mid-palate with moderate structure.

2005 Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage     $27
Opaque color, classic Graillot; this wine is bulletproof.  I double decanted (into the decanter and back into the bottle) the day before.  This is a very complete and powerful wine and it’s just a baby.  Smoke, leather, minerals, scrub, spice, jerky, and cassis. Very compact on the palate.  Needs time.

Click here for a link to Vinfolio's current selection of Crozes-Hermitage

It's amazing how certain wines continue to resonate many months after tasting them.  People, like wine, also leave an indelible mark on memory, and when an experience includes both memorable people and wine, it is all the more unforgettable. Such was the case when I visited Chiara Boschis, owner and winemaker of the Azienda Agricola E. PIRA & Figli estate in Piedmont, and tasted her 2003 and 2004 Barolo Cannubi.

Last October Chiara was kind enough to spend the day with me at the Borgogno and E. Pira estate.  I remember the excitement and passion in her voice as she spoke about her family's history, her personal story and approach to winemaking. Her fervor is clearly reflected in the quality of her 2003 and 2004 Barolo Cannubi wines. Bypassing traditional winemaking with which the Borgogno name is synonymous, Chiara is part of a group of young winemakers responsible for making Barolo internationally popular by employing modern winemaking, technology, and marketing. This group of modernists is often referred to as the "Barolo Boys." As Chiara is the only female participant, she is known as the "Barolo Girl."

Although recently there has been an increase in the number of female winemakers in Barolo, Chiara is still the "Barolo Girl" who single-handedly operates the E. Pira estate.  She oversees everything from vineyard management, winemaking, and bottling, to marketing. As glamorous as that may sound, being the owner/winemaker of your own estate, and the daughter of the Boschis family, is hard work. It requires dedication and sacrifice; there is little time for vacation during the growing season because every day is important. Chiara is there every moment, watching the vineyard out of her bedroom window, with barriques filling an area most would consider her living room. A petite woman, perhaps 5'4" at most, it is hard to picture her getting dirty and lugging barrels around, but she does it...happily, seriously, and with a great sense of humor, too. She jokingly referred to her climate-control system in her barrel ageing room as Obi-Wan "Cannubi." The device looked more like R2-D2, but still, the reference was funny.

If you meet Chiara Boschis in person, you will find that she not only funny, but also confident, charming, and ambitious. She is an amazing person who, like her wines, will leave a lasting impression. I highly recommend picking up any of Chiara's selections: Barolo Cannubi, Barolo Via Nuova, Barbera d'Alba, or Dolcetto d'Alba. You will not be disappointed. Featured below are two vintages of E. Pira Barolo Cannubi, of which annual production stands at a mere 650 cases.

The 2003 Barolo Cannubi E. Pira is an extraordinary wine for such a warm vintage. It is structured with a floral nose, has ripe, cherry and plum fruit complimented by sweet spice nuances, and firm tannins not found in many 2003s. This wine is quite accessible now, but will benefit from additional bottle ageing.

The 2004 Barolo Cannubi E. Pira, like the 2003, is superb. It has everything you would want in a great bottle of Barolo: musky aromas, rich layered fruit, and notes of mint and eucalyptus, among other spices. For the boldness and depth of this wine, it is balanced, elegant and filled with subtle nuances that reflect the terroir of the Cannubi vineyard.  The finish is long-lasting and suggests that the wine will surely improve with several years' ageing.

2003 Pira, Enrico e Figli - Barolo Cannubi (WA 90, WS 90,  IWC 87) $59.95        
 
2004 Pira, Enrico e Figli - Barolo Cannubi  (WA 95, IWC 87) $83 / 750 ml or $197 / 1.5L

As my husband, who hails from Southern France, put up a new awning in our back garden to provide some much needed shade from the heat, I thought it would be a perfect opportunity to open a rosé with dinner that reminded him of home. Since I had recently raided the Vinfolio wine store to stock up on my favorite summer whites and rosés, we thought we’d do a little taste test. I found a spicy crab and preserved lemon pasta dish in the recent issue of Gourmet.  It has some bold elements which call for a rosé with character and a little more weight, so we decided to test the three rosés I had brought home to see which paired best.

The wines:

2006 Mas de Gourgonnier Les Beaux de Provence Rosé ($9.94 on sale)
Discreet nose of red fruits with a hint of floral, lively acidity and a delicate dry finish. This wine was more enjoyable on its own as a refreshing pre-dinner sipper. It had a hard time holding up to the Asian spice in the sauce and showing its own throughout the dish.

2006 Mourgues du Gres Les Galets Rosés, Costieres de Nimes, VF 90 ($9.50 on sale)
Deep rose color with bright cherry and red fruits on the nose – very aromatic, more full-bodied on the palette with a smooth finish. The soft lush fruit really held up against the spice but could have used a little more acidity to cleanse the palette at the end. We liked this wine on its own and with the dish.

Bastide Blanche Bandol Rosé (currently out of stock)
Very pale rosé color; subtle hints of strawberry and red currant - a more structured wine with good acidity and a polished, dry finish. This was the best match to the dish. It had enough fruit to counterbalance the spice and great acidity that held up all the way through, bringing out the subtleties of the dish like the sweet/salty flavor of the preserved lemon. This wine was made for food and was less interesting on its own.

Given the recent popularity of rosé, I think it is worth trying out a few to get an idea of whether you want the "summer sipper" or a well-made classic like Bandol to serve with an elegant summer meal.  There are so many regions and varietals to choose from; you really need to taste what is out there.  

The key to great Corton-Charlemagne is the terroir. The Chardonnay grown here is unrivaled due to the combination of exposure and soils of white marl with high clay content over a hard limestone rock base. The result is an incredible combination of breed, class, and intensity underpinned by tremendous minerality and racy acidity. Corton-Charlemagne rivals the focused minerality of grand cru Chablis and the elegance and finesse of Chevalier-Montrachet. 

The appellation of Corton-Charlemagne encompasses three communes. It is often referred to as the Hill of Corton as the orientation and exposure affects the specific character and style:

• Ladoix-Serrigny: 6.5 ha facing primarily east and southeast, can be heavy
• Aloxe-Corton: 48.57 ha south facing which favors ripening (important in leaner years), softer and develops sooner
• Pernand-Vergelesses: 17.25 ha that swing all the way around to the west; the soil is rockier and particularly rich in flint so the wines from Pernand have more acidity and are generally more austere than those from Aloxe or Ladoix.  In particularly ripe years, the Corton-Charlemagnes from Pernand are fresher and livelier.  The wines of Bonneau du Martray, Dubreuil-Fontaine, Laleure-Piot, Rapet, and Roumier are all either largely or completely from Pernand.  All of these wines need more cellar time.

Bonneau du Martray is one of the leading estates and one of the most consistent Domaines for Corton-Charlemagne.  Bonneau du Martray also is the leading principal proprietor with 9.5 hectares.  The 2004 white burgundy vintage is a classic vintage for Burgundy lovers who love terroir. The wines are highly aromatic and show precise minerality. 

A good Corton-Charlemagne needs 8 to 10 years of ageing to show its richness and true potential.  While the 2004 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne is much too young to drink now, this wine will be highly cherished by the smart enthusiast and collector who cellar this smart buy.

2004 Bonneau du Martray - Corton-Charlemagne  $117     In Stock

BH 93               Drink 2012+

Now that this is in bottle, it's even better than I originally thought with a still reserved yet elegant nose of white flower, green apple, pear and natural spice and wet stone notes that introduce detailed, fresh and wonderfully intense flavors that are exceptionally clean and bright, culminating in a bone dry finish replete with superb minerality. This is not as dense as the '05 but the purity here is really something to see and as noted last year, it's sufficiently structured that it will need the better part of a decade to reach its apogee. Note that there was a trace of reduction on the nose and this would benefit from 30 minutes in a decanter should you elect to try one anytime soon.  -Allen Meadows, Burghound Issue 27, 3rd Quarter, 2007 

Late spring marks Outdoor BBQ Season even though some parts of the country are waiting for the thaw! Serious BBQ deserves well thought-out wine pairings to meld with bold flavors from spicy shrimp on the barbee, to dry-rubbed pulled pork. BBQ preparations are not just about the US, though. Let’s face it, the grill is a cook’s tool of choice worldwide! The popularity of Korean BBQ or Jamaican Jerk Chicken can’t be denied. Why not think outside of the box and travel the globe when making savvy wine pairings? Be creative, but follow proven pairing tips.  

• Stick with whites and reds that display forward fruit on the palate but not cloying sweetness. Spice and a touch of sweetness go a long way in the pairing equation!

• Choose table and sparkling wines that are naturally higher in acid. Assertive flavors need cleansing acidity to provide a natural balancing act.

• Avoid high alcohol wines. Extra spice and high octane can be cumbersome! There are some exceptions, such as Californian Zinfandel, which sometimes teeters on 17% alcohol. Just make sure you’re sipping the old-vine with gobs of berry fruit!

• Toasty oak should be in the chip form for your smoker, not in the bottle. Zesty foods will only make your wine taste like a 2x4! Oak should be minimal; wines fermented in stainless steel are favored.

• Tannic reds should be left in your cellar to mellow! Think light to medium-bodied reds, which translate into lower alcohol wines that are more versatile for food pairing.

When it comes to pairing wines with BBQ, I have trouble sitting still in my home state of California, especially with the diversity of flavor possibilities out there! So let’s take a ride through some ideal matches!

Papaya-Jalapeno Glazed Mahi Mahi - A crisp white with ample fruit and zest are critical here. I love to turn to Italy for an array of native cultivar, from Prosecco to Falanghina. Italian whites maybe the most under-appreciated white category in the world.

NV Sorelle Bronca - Prosecco di Valdobbiadene, Veneto, Italy ($15) - Prosecco makes for a wonderful budget-beater, usually coming below $15 per bottle. The Sorrelle makes for the perfect palate cleanser.

2006 Ca Dei Frati - Lugana I Frati, Veneto, Italy ($20) - Lugana is a noble clone of Trebbiano and has more length and body than many others, with all the mouth-watering acidity expected from this high acid varietal.

Slow & Low Cooked Pulled Pork - BBQ enthusiasts always have a good recipe for slow-cooked Pork Shoulder and Pork Butt in their arsenal. I find Spanish Tintos versatile and ideal companions where savory spice meets tender melt in your mouth shredded meat.

2005 Maurodos – Prima Tinto, Toro, Spain ($18) - Many Tintos from Toro can be too hard edged, but the Prima goes to the head of the class for accessibility, steering away from heavy oak. The sweet and spicy core of Tempranillo and Grenache fruit ranks high for personality and flavor.

2004 Pago Alto Landon – Manchuela, Castilla y Leon, Spain ($29) - The Manchuela D.O. is coming on strong for its blends. Bold, dark black fruit flavors coat the palate to finish with silky and supple notes.

Flank Steak with Chimichurri Sauce - “Barons of the Grill” always get inspired by this Argentine classic! Chimichurri Sauce brings on that piquant element that makes you want a few more slices. I find that Montepulciano from the Marche in S.E. Italy and Argentine Malbec are perfect steak wines, as they can handle the fresh herbal and vinegar notes of the Chimichurri.

2005 Nicodemi – ‘Notari’ Montepulciano d'Abruzzo ($15) - You want hearty flavors from your Italian varietals? Well, move over Sangiovese! Montepulciano from Abruzzo has made strides in the last twenty years. The Nicodemi Notari delivers the goods with a brooding meatiness that matches a meat lover’s appetite.

2005 Mendel – Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina ($23) - This 100% Malbec typifies the category! A lot of boldness for the price, and its dark saturated hue means all business without the clumsy new oak! Elements of smoke and supple blackberry in the core are a winning formula to handle the grill marks.

Hawaiian Hoisin-Glazed Baby Back Pork Ribs - I worked in restaurants in Hawaii for several years and these ribs top any pupu menu list. A super-spicy BBQ rib will be too hot for most reds, but the Hosin glaze has some restraints without losing the flavor. Big, jammy fruit notes are needed for this pairing!

2006 Broc - Vine Starr Red, California ($25) - A Zinfandel blend (67% Zin, 30% Syrah, 2% Petite Sirah & 1% Mourvedre) that packs it in with oodles of boysenberry and cranberry notes. A no brainer for Pork Ribs!

2006 Teusner – Joshua, Barossa Valley, Australia ($24) - The land of Oz has a treasure trove of perfect pairing BBQ wines, but be careful with renditions that have new oak. The Teusner Joshua doesn’t see an ounce and we like it that way! Close your eyes and you might think you’re drinking a Cotes du Rhone on steroids! The cuvee is comprised of 65% Grenache, 25% Mataro and 10% Shiraz. The dark and expressive black and blue fruit laced with pepper makes for an afternoon BBQ delight!

Valdeorras is Godello country! What is Godello you may ask? Well, it’s an ancient white varietal that has laid its claim in Valdeorras since the Roman occupation. The region juts north of Portugal and east of Riaxas Baixas, in the Galicia region of N.W. Spain. The Romans were attracted to Valdeorras (Golden Valley) for its precious metals and gold mining, but like other areas they conquered, vineyards followed. This is also evident in Germany, Burgundy and the Northern Rhone. In the Middle Ages, the baton was passed to the Catholic Church, and monks played an instrumental role in fine-tuning the terraced vineyards. Fast forward to the modern era, when the once important Godello was not even mentioned in discussions of benchmark Spanish wines. It was only in the 1990s that certain mavericks, intent on preserving this ancient cultivar, were noticed by boutique American importers and the Spanish wine press.

Rafael Palacios was one of the several talented young winemakers who saw the potential of old-vine Godello from some of the steepest hillsides of Valdeorras. His Godello project launched in 2004, and the accolades keep coming in with the flagship “As Sortes” label. The grape has gained more popularity in the American market due to the effort of U.S. importers like Eric Solomon. Godello has followed in the footsteps of its “kissing cousin” Albarino, the banner grape of Rias Baixas, but not in terms of production. Some Valdeorras blends include both varietals, making for a crisp and aromatic wonder. Albarino is the most recognized white varietal of the region, and probably all of Spain. It’s user-friendly, with great aromatics and a mouthfeel similar to Viognier.  However, where there’s fame, there’s often over production. If Albarino is the poster child of Galicia, then old-vine Godello is a prince about to be king! I crave Godello for its searing minerality, which makes Albarino taste somewhat flabby and overtly fruity by comparison, especially when sipping a value-driven young-vine effort.

Palacios’ “As Sortes” bottling may be the finest Godello imported into the states. The name refers to an old Galician practice of children picking parcels’ names out of a hat during the passing of the inheritance.  I remember my first time tasting this wine in Spain back in 2005, and I still remember the overall package distinctively from the entry to finish. Want to put a sleeper into your next group tasting or seafood fest? Well, the 2006 “As Sortes” will make for a tasty impression. Mouth watering is an understatement! Just take a whiff of this and you will salivate, as the wine beckons you for another sip.  On my last trip to Galacia, my most memorable food and wine pairing experience was sipping on Godello with a simple preparation of pan-roasted razor clams. Sheer bliss … pinch me please!

Many would find spending $35 or more for a Spanish white not worth it, since you can usually find pleasant quaffers for $15 to $20. We’re not talking quaffer here, but more of a palate-changing experience. Consider the 2006 “As Sortes” based on its aromatic depth and mouthfeel. Close your eyes and you might think you’re about to wrap your lips onto a 1er Cru Puligny or Chassagne Montrachet with a hint of Riesling-esque minerality typical of a dry Austrian style. Chalk up some zesty spice and lemon peel with a dose of stone fruit. Yes, there are many superlatives here, but talk is cheap, so pick up a six-pack of this limited production old-vine white. “As Sortes”’ can age better than Albarino, and it gains more complexity with a few years of bottle age. A flavor impression, seafood-pairing champion, this Valdeorras superstar needs your love! The “As Sortes” is a must for anyone who likes classy White Burgundy!

 

 

2006 Rafael Palacios "As Sortes" ($41) IWC 92

I faced a dilemma of epic proportions…pulled pork, tri-tip or smoked sausage. At the Beach Pit BBQ in Costa Mesa (SoCal - a.k.a. The O.C.), they serve a mean array of grilled flesh with one of the best tangy, spicy sauces I’ve had. Finally deciding (sliders – one of each) presented me with another quandary. What the heck was I going to drink with all this hot, meaty goodness? Dad (whose genes I am convinced have a great deal to do with my wine tasting affinity) came to the rescue. With a wry smile, Dad quipped “I know how much you love Chateauneuf-du-Pape.”  Yes, well, and that love knows no limits, as I am sure he was remembering the time I drank his last bottle of 1989 Beaucastel ($235) during a weekend home from college. Youthful trangressions forgotten, he graciously proffered the Monpertuis 2005 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Cuvee Classique" ($33/750ml or $21/375ml) for my dining pleasure.  Now this is a wine that is made for hearty, flavor-spiked, spice-laden fare. It starts out with a pure, racy, juicy Grenache-driven palate that seduces you with spicy herb and pepper laced-up with strawberry and raspberry fruit. With in-your-face food we were eating/wearing, this elegance transcended its humble bottle persona and expressed such complementary trappings that we were into bottle number two before we knew it. This is simply beautiful, pure Rhone complexity, round and reasonable with immediate gratification its only goal.

The Vinfolio motto of Fine Wine, Finer Service runs deep considering our company has six dedicated Wine Specialists working to make sure your account is fully serviced. Just because we’re an on-line retailer doesn’t mean we can’t give our clients the same personal service as a traditional brick n’ mortar operation.  

We offer a myriad of services for the enthusiast and collector alike, but the most enjoyable part of my day at the office is offering personal recommendations for my clients. The bottom line is that we all want to share our top picks with others who share our passions about wine. For the client, getting recommendations from a wine professional is a great way to expand the palate without being held to a reviewer’s rating system. Having the opportunity to taste allows me to make more informed decisions on what my clients will enjoy, rather than relying on another reviewer’s score.
Much of my Bay Area wine career has been spent making recommendations in a restaurant setting, or managing boutique wine stores. Just like everyone on the Vinfolio Wine Team, I encourage clients to reach out for recommendations based on budget, palate preference or gift-giving parameters. I like being able to personally take my clients on a palate tour of the world, offering many wines they hadn’t considered or even known existed. Global treasures are being imported at record levels, so think outside of the box! Bring on your requests for a mixed sampler and I’ll make sure that you come away with a satisfying experience.  Once you try the wines, give feedback so I can better understand your palate preferences. My personal gratification is always reinforced when clients share with me their own impressions of the wines.

Below is a mixed case or six-pack sampler to please both the neophyte and connoisseur. These selections will perform well at a dinner or cocktail party, or provide a great go-to option at home throughout the year and down the road.  

Pierre Moncuit Blanc de Blancs Cuvee Pierre Moncuit-Delos, Champagne, France NV  ($32.95)
Move over Veuve Yellow Label! This small family run operation knows Chardonnay! The estate and holdings are in Le Mesnil sur-Oger which is the most revered village in all of Cotes de Blancs. Do you need a bubbly in the same fold as Salon and Krug, but need to stay in budget? Well, Moncuit is waiting for your love!

2006 Fratelli Pra, Soave Classico Superiore “Vigneto Monte Grande”, Veneto, Italy ($25.00)
I just tasted this at the Gambero Rosso Road Show in San Francisco. This single vineyard Soave is a far cry from your Grandma’s Bolla of the 1970s! The 2006 is a flat-out crowd pleaser, guaranteed!

2006 Pascal Cotat Sancerre Chavignol “Mont Damnes”, Loire Valley, France ($34.95)
The Holly Grail of Sauvignon can be found in Chavignol, specifically the Mont Damnes parcel. A truly benchmark French category that’s a little bit of sunshine in the glass with bright citrus-flint infusion on the nose, followed by high beam lime zest, sea salt and a tinge of raw almonds on the mid-palate. Got Chevre?

2004 Bodegas y Vinedos Maurodos- San Roman, Toro, Spain ($49.00)
Tempranillo Supreme! Highly-regarded winemaker Mariano Garcia’s (formerly of Vega Sicilia) new Toro project really shines with the stellar 2004 vintage. Bush-trained 100% Tempranillo vines (70-year-old average) are kept to extremely low yields, which transfers into the glass with concentrated black n’ blue notes. Decant in its youth for aeration purposes. This darling needs at least a couple years to mellow out!

2004 Cantina Terlano Lagrein Porphyr Riserva, Alto Adige, Italy ($39.00)
Lagrein is native to Alto Adige, and it’s safe to say you won’t find it outside the Dolomiti. Cantina Terlano is a cooperative of long-established growers founded in 1893. Experience goes a long way, which is especially clear with the “Porphyr” single vineyard effort. Lagrein is always meat,y without the sappy fruit you find with many “New World” reds. Silkened blackberry fruit is laced with bitter dark chocolate and mineral notes.

2004 Domaine du Caillou Chateauneuf du Pape "Les Quartz", Southern Rhone, France ($69.00)
This effort is one of my favorite Chateauneufs. Here’s a great pick for someone who leans more toward a California style. But don’t be fooled, this effort is truly French; the old-vine Grenache sings with white pepper, followed on the palate by dark berry fruit, Kirschwasser encased in a cloak of mouthwatering minerality.

If there’s one thing I’ve learned in my 20s it’s that weddings are…expensive. But, not surprisingly, they are also great opportunities to try new wine! My brother got married at BR Cohn Winery in Glen Ellen on a sweltering summer day and we fought the heat with plenty of sparkling. One of my best friends tied the knot the weekend just prior, at her parents’ vineyard in Sonoma. They grow grapes for Castle Vineyards, and had a Merlot from their property bottled with a special wedding label. At both of these fun events, the wine flowed like, well, wine.

This past weekend my family celebrated another wedding as my step-sister got married in Tahoe. (Congratulations again Elisabeth and Darrell!) The setting was picturesque, the weather perfect, and again the wine was delicious. I love being able to hear what people who don’t work around wine for a living have to say about what’s in their glasses; it’s refreshing and honest, and not obscured with typical review jargon. Here’s what we were drinking, along with some comments from my family members:

2006 Kistler Chardonnay Les Noisetiers  – “Smokey, flinty. There’s a lot to it,” said my brother, and an hour later his wife commented, “Oh, fruity!” This also got a round of “I like it” comments from the table.

2005 Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Reserve – My father: ”Tastes good with the duck sausage. A little more please.” By the way, it also went well with the rack of lamb.

2003 Pride Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon Napa/Sonoma – My eloquent brother: “Now that’s what I’m talking about. Why do you even bother with Pinot?”

At the end of the night, my dad and I fought over the two unopened bottles that remained. He ended up with the Pinot and I got the Chardonnay.  I think I won.

A little while back a group of friends decided to celebrate the holidays at my favorite restaurant south of San Francisco, Manresa.  This fabulous place is named after the medieval town in Catalonia and gets much of the cuisine’s inspiration from that region as well as from the European classics and local biodynamic farming.  David Kinch, the Executive Chef, has worked at famous restaurants throughout the world from the Quilted Giraffe in New York, to Arzak in San Sebastian, Spain and everywhere in between and has a style all his own—he created my favorite amuse-bouche in the US, a coddled egg with foie gras, maple syrup and caviar.  What a way to start any meal.  I could certainly do it for breakfast, lunch, AND dinner.

When we first arrived in the private room we were all presented with a glass of Non-Vintage Drappier Val des Demoiselles. It has a wonder balance of fruit and acidity. On the palate, there was a hint of cassis.  This Champagne has lovely freshness, with a breath of toastiness and great length.  Once we were all seated, we were treated to Kobe-style American Beef and Oyster Tartar.  Though I have experienced Manresa on numerous occasions, this dish was a new one me and what a treat!  The marriage between the two very distinct flavors was absolutely superb and it virtually melted in my mouth.  Our second amuse was a daring Kohlrabi and Foie Gras Royale demonstrating Chef Kinch’s knack for blending very different textures with outstanding results.

Our first course consisted of Monterey Bay Spot Prawns on the Planch with exotic Indian spice.  The prawns were so sweet and creamy they melted in my mouth; the sauce had fantastic cumin and coriander; and the combination was very fresh and light as there was no cream to weigh it down at the beginning of the meal.  This delectable dish was served with a 2006 Diatom Huber Chardonnay, Santa Rita Hills.  It had a hint of herbaceousness and green papaya.  The 100% malolactic fermentation was certainly apparent and it had a fairly pronounced buttery character.  It was a bit green on the palate, with good acidity, balance, and length.  It was a lovely pairing with the prawns as there was also a good deal of lychee and exotic fruit as well.

This being December in the Bay Area, our next treat was of course Dungeness Crab prepared in a risotto with black truffles.  For those of you who are unaware, we had an oil spill occur in the San Francicsco Bay just before Thanksgiving.  It closed beaches and delayed the official beginning of Crab Season by several weeks.  But good things certainly come to those who wait.  The crab was so sweet, the risotto creamy and cooked to perfection, and who could ever look down their noses at black truffles from Perigord?  To accompany this delectable dish we had a 2002 Gros Frère et Soeur Vosne-Romanée.  With its beautiful ruby color, it was a classic Vosne-Romanée with hints of violettes and that traditional "barnyard" (and I do mean that in the best sense) aroma.  A perfect Côte de Nuits, the wine was lovely and elegant with great acidity and length.  It the end it was the red berry and tobacco that lingered the most.

Our next course was the Guinea Hen poached and then roasted with Winter Vegetable and Citrus.  This was the perfect dish for a cold winter evening with friends.  The hen was rich and moist while the hearty root vegetables were still kept light and savory with the help of the citrus.  This memorable course was accompanied by the 2004 Pisoni Estate Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands.  It had a dark ruby hue and a nose that was all cherry and mint.  There was a good deal of acidity to this Pinot and very fresh for a '04.  The finish had lots of sweetness and a gentle hint of melted brown sugar.

Our main course was an amazing Roast Beef with Yellowfoot Mushrooms and Crushed Potatoes with Horseradish.  The beef was beautifully roasted – just the right amount of pink for me.  The potatoes were from heaven, so sweet from the caramelization accompanied by delectable mushrooms. As this course was fit for a king, we had of course the king of Napa varietals, the 2004 Hourglass Cabernet Sauvignon, out of magnum.  The deep, opaque aubergine color was amazing.  In the nose were hints of mint, black cherry, and molasses.  On the palate it was almost over the top for the scrumptious yet mild roast beef.  It had huge, mouth puckering tannins, yet the overall body and structure was still fairly restrained.   We enjoyed this wine with a selection of cheeses ranging from a French raw goat’s milk, a harder Spanish goat’s milk, to an American blue wrapped in grape leaves.  Even with the intense color and acidity, this will be a fantastic wine to cellar for a years so as to enjoy it again with prime rib at some date after 2012.  

Our dessert course consisted of Dark Chocolate Fondant and Chicory Cremeux with Caramel Bouillon and hazelnut Ice Cream.  The chicory gave a pleasing crunchy consistency as well as flavor to the dish.  The hazelnut ice cream was a dream.  I have only had its equivalent once and that was in Piedmonte, Italy!  The caramel bouillon was wonderful with elegance and beautiful balance - not too sweet, just enough.  This dish also paired well with the Hourglass.

It was a fabulous way to celebrate the holidays with my dear friends from Saratoga and the fantastic staff at Manresa:  David, the always brilliant and low-key chef, Jeff, one of my favorite wine stewards, and Esteban, the ever welcoming Maître d’hôtel.  Everyone who works at Manresa has a class and professionalism that puts them truly head and shoulders above the rest.  Thank you again Russel and Susan Perry as well as everyone at Manresa.  Happy 2008!

My Tuscan exploration continues. Excited by a recent showing of the 1997 Argiano, I came across a bottle of the 1990 and took it to a favorite Italian restaurant called Sociale. Not only am I high on Brunello at the moment, particularly from the trustworthy producers whose wines age gracefully and properly, but the 1990 vintage has me rather excited to dive deeper into what is an exceptional year for Tuscany and Brunello di Montalcino in particular.
 
The 1990 Argiano showed really, really well. It’s mature, but has ample fruit and structure for continued development. Sangiovese’s hallmark acidity brought verve and liveliness that helped the wine develop throughout the meal. The wine revealed beautiful dark fruits, floral character, as well as notes of spice and mushroom.

My advice is to get into the 1990 Brunellos. Bottles from producers of balanced, age-able wines are certain to offer tons of pleasure at this point in time – I would imagine very few require more bottle age. This bottle is the most recent in a succession of great 1990s (such as Valdicava, Ciacci Piccolomini, Altesino) that I’ve recently tried. I haven’t found any over-ripeness, roasted qualities or imbalance that the year’s heat had brought to other regions such as Burgundy, Bordeaux and even Piedmont. There are tons of 1990 Brunellos floating around the market and through Vinfolio. They are truly worth your attention. Below are some prime examples:

1990 Costanti, Conti - Brunello di Montalcino, WS 93, $95

1990 Poggione - Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, WS 91, $135

1990 Pertimali (Livio Sassetti) - Brunello di Montalcino, $150

1990 Poggio Antico - Brunello di Montalcino, WS 91, $169

1990 Caparzo - Brunello di Montalcino Vigna La Casa, WA 91, $185

1990 Banfi - Brunello di Montalcino Poggio all'Oro Riserva, $189

1990 Costanti, Conti - Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, $225

The 2006 Oregon Pinot Noir vintage is looking great.  Wine Spectator comments, “those who like the suppleness and relatively light texture of Oregon Pinot will want to stock up this year.  2006 saw a long, hot summer that got the grapes totally ripe.  The flavors are sweet and the textures supple.  Look for generous wines with higher alcohols than the moderate levels seen in 2004 and 2005.  The wines have impressive depth and drink-me-now quality…The run ends in 2007, though, as heavy rains fell on a larger than normal grape crop just as it was ripening.”  (Harvey Steiman, The Wine Spectator, Vol. 32, No. 15)

Growing up in Seattle, I have always been a huge fan of the Shea Vineyard (sourced by Panther Creek, Ken Wright, St Innocent, and even Sine Qua Non).  I bought the 2006 Shea Wine Cellars - Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard Estate myself.  The Shea Vineyard is the source for Oregon Pinot and this is a reference standard.  If you want to do an interesting comparative tasting of vineyard-designate Pinot, start gathering the various renditions of the 2006 Shea Vineyard. 

Currently in stock:

 2006 Raptor Ridge Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard ($46)

A ginger and black cherry nose with soft undertones of mocha and vanilla dust. The palate shows well defined weight and deeply structured flavors; black berry, plum, hints of smoky licorice and kirsch that coat the palate with velvet-like tannins. Another Shea masterpiece. VF 96

- Doug Wilder, The Wilder Side of California, Issue 136

 

 

 2006 Shea Wine Cellars Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard Estate ($45) 

The nose shows violet and licorice/sassafras with cola and black cherry tart. The fat, powdered blueberry and violet ripeness on the palate is balanced by focused acidity. More structured than the 2005. VF 95

- Doug Wilder, The Wilder Side of California, Issue 143

Recently, I was climbing over a fence in a skirt, trying not to fall on my face.  To my left, a deer spine and hind leg snaked through the posts.  It was cold; nose-running, eyes-watering cold and windy, and little rain drops were starting to knife their way down from dark clouds.  At 2,200 feet above sea level, Mt Harlan seemed a magnet for the oncoming storm. On the other side of the fence laid the motivation for being out in this kind of weather, dressed so inappropriately.  Josh Jensen’s Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines arched tightly up and down the hills, separated by blankets of bright green groundcover. I have to admit, I was freezing, and so didn’t walk far enough in the right direction to see the famed lime kiln for which the Calera Wine Company is named.  I did, however, spot innumerable whitish pebbles sticking up out of the soil, belying the geological fact of a vast limestone deposit’s presence below.   

Jensen’s vines are fairly widely spaced, as is true of most vineyards planted in the late 1970s.  Sections have been replanted, but the Pinot remains entirely Calera clone, planted with cuttings taken from Chalone vineyards across the valley. The Calera Pinot vineyards (Selleck, Reed, Jensen, and Mills) produce wines of varying profiles, depending on their exact location, but all are unmistakably clear expressions of pure Pinot fruit.  Of the 2005s tasted, my favorite was from the Jensen Vineyard as it jumped out of the glass with red fruit on the nose, and continued with structure on the palate, providing the "backbone" for the warm spice roundness.  Good acidity carried the wine through to a long, balanced finish.  Also of note, though not Pinot, was the Chardonnay Mt Harlan, with an equally vibrant nose and excellent clarity and focus from attack to mid-palate to finish.

If you have a free Sunday, take the beautiful drive toward Hollister and taste at Calera.  Even if you don’t have time to break away, try a bottle of Josh Jensen’s Mt Harlan Pinot Noir or Chardonnay.  You won’t be disappointed.

Gastronomically speaking, it seems anything “Spain” has been on a ten-year upswing in the States. From the success of small plate-tapas bars in urban centers, to the upsurge in the import of wines from previously unknown regions, there’s no way around it, Spain is hot! This has propelled some friends and me to host an annual Spanish Feast over the last few years. A bounty of seafood is always at the top of the menu, paired with Cava and crisp aromatic whites. We usually prep three large Paella pans (seafood, veggie and meat lovers’ paradise), with Garnacha Rosados and savory Tempranillo Jovens waiting in the wings.

Beyond the food, I take great pride in selecting the wines for the theme. There’s an immense array of options that showcase distinct native varietals from bubbly to fortified, and more often than not they are the tastiest values available. Many of the native cultivars should be enjoyed young. They are extremely food-friendly, showcasing fresh, forward fruit, backed with cleansing acidity.

At Vinfolio we try to promote some of these darlings throughout the year and our clients appreciate that we have these wines available by the case for their entertaining needs. We presently have two wines on the site that scream “Spanish Party Wine”!   

Albariño is fast becoming what New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc or Viognier were in the early 1990s. Back then, there weren’t more than three or four Albarinos imported into the country. Today, the number has increased 500% if you include regions neighboring the famed Rias Baixas appellation in Galicia. Like Viognier, Albariño is aromatic, with a distinct stone fruit element rising off the nose. In most cases, the banner fruit scheme is peach backed with vibrant acidity and a twinge of minerality that will remind a wine enthusiast of German Riesling. The majority of the Albariño imported is un-oaked and tank-fermented to preserve the flowery aromatics and freshness.

2006 Nessa Albariño ($12) has won us over with its textbook notes of white flowers, zingy ginger-lemon zest backed with a light pear note. “Nessa” is made with the American market in mind. The parent winery is Adegas Gran Vinum, which has only been in business since 2002, but with the success of the past two vintages, this outfit is on the fast track to success. The winery is based in the Salnes Valley, where the grape thrives in the well-drained granite-based soils. Pair with citrus-glazed scallops, or any grilled seafood such as shrimp, spiny-tail lobster, or octopus.  

Mencia has become a favorite of the sommelier community here in the States. Testing has tied the grape genetically to Cabernet Franc, however, locals in the village of Bierzo and Ribeira Sacra would argue otherwise, stressing its uniqueness to the most inland portions of Galicia and the northeastern tip of Castile-León. The Bierzo district has more associated with Galicia than it does with the Castilian Empire, and the palate virtues of the Mencia varietal are putting this ancient viticulture pocket back on the map. It’s the only recommended red-skinned grape of the region. When tasting, the Cabernet Franc comparison is evident, with streaks of herbs and mint.

2006 Descendientes de Jose Palacios ‘Petalos’ Mencia ($20) has just been released on the site and it’s similar in quality to the 2005 rendition, which had great success. The schist-based mineral component really shines in this youthful, but approachable wine. Notes of black cherry and black raspberry hit the palate with pleasing results. The back end reveals more mineral notes intertwined with cigar ash and oil-cured black olives. It’s important to let this wine breath in glass or decanter for a good hour, but patience is rewarded! Close your eyes and you might think you’re drinking a wine triple the price. The Descendientes de Jose Palacios project is dedicated to this grape, sourcing old-vine material throughout the village of Corullon in Bierzo. There are other single vineyard offerings on the site that are more oak-driven and need time, but the 2006 Petalos is fresh, having spent only about 8 months in older oak. The vines used in this cuvée range from 40 to 90 years old. The Petalos cries out for lamb of any kind, but I like spicy dry rub lamb sirloin on the grill. When planning your Spanish Feast, perhaps try a slow-roasted leg of suckling pig! 

I’ve heard, and sometimes sided with, the argument that narrowly declares Sangiovese the ­only real Tuscan grape. Without a doubt Sangiovese best expresses the Tuscan region, but “Super-Tuscans” have been gaining their “street cred” as formidable newcomers.  Recently, I’ve been scanning the landscape of these Cabernet-based blends which, I think, deserve every bit as much respect as the famed locals. So who’s making the best non-Sangiovese-based wines in Tuscany?

 
The crown may go to Castello dei Rampolla, producer of two cultish, but relatively affordable bottlings: 2004 Sammarco ($65), (65-90% Cabernet, the rest Sangiovese), and 2004 Vigne d’Alceo ($165), (typically 85% Cabernet, the rest Petit Verdot or sometimes Sangiovese). Of Super-Tuscan producers, none are more soulful and genuine than those made by this low-tech operation. Despite the flavor profile that calls to mind Pauillac and Graves with its tobacco, mineral, and cedar, these are unmistakably Tuscan, which is something to try to wrap your head and palate around.

 
As 2004 was an ideal vintage in Tuscany, it makes sense to pay attention to the best. A recently-consumed bottle of the 1985 Sammarco proves these wines age beautifully and gracefully…if you can keep from pulling the corks. So add Castello dei Rampolla to your short-list of Tuscan go-tos. Dare I say they speak more of Tuscany than many Brunellos out there.

I always love this wine. Brusset really "sticks to its guns." The wine is so consistent from vintage to vintage. There is natural winemaking at Brusset and the breakdown commonly offers a 50%/25%/25% split of Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah. It’s usually rather big but it’s always very clean and pure. Brusset makes a Côtes du Rhône and one or two Carianne, as well as their Gigondas Tradition. Parker’s Wine Buyer’s Guide rates the domaine, Les Hautes de Montmirail by Daniel Brusset, among only four "Outstanding" producers. I’ve never seen a rated vintage score lower than 89 points from either Parker or Tanzer.
 
A fairly subtle nose that continues to develop. Black cherry and some sautéed cherry mix with a more playful gumdrop flavor. There is a slight citrus note while the wine opens up with late developing flavors of chocolate and menthol. There is just a trace of tarmac -- along with darker cherry elements-- that you can expect to develop in this wine over the next ten to twelve years or so. To drink now, leave open in the glass or decant for an hour.

2005 Brusset - Gigondas Les Hauts du Montmirail ($40)

 
The winter months are the perfect time to explore sweet wines. Their viscosity, length and ultimate natural sweetness are ideal attributes to take the chill out of the air. I have to confess, I’m a fan of “Sweet Nectar," “Stickies” or “Liquid Gold” as the category is commonly referred to. However, one elixir that truly stands out for me is Hungarian Tokaji and the house putting this rare and historic beverage in the forefront is the Royal Tokaji Wine Company.

Like many great beverages, Hungarian Tokaji was created accidently  in the early 1600s. In 1700, Prince Rakoczi of Transylvania passed a decree to classify certain noted vineyards in the northeastern part of the country as 1st Growth, 2nd Growth and 3rd Growth. The Tokaji region was technically the first European viticultural region to institute a vineyard classification system, so move over Bordeaux.  Over the years, Tokaji Aszú (ah-SOO) has been a status symbol enjoyed by many royal courts from Louis XIV of France to the Russian Czars. It has been well documented that the Cossacks protected the most precious nectar, “Aszú Essencia,” while it was in transport to the Czar’s Palace in St. Petersburg.

After the fall of Communism in the late 1980s, the region started to make a comeback from decades of neglect. Noted English wine author Hugh Johnson and several others invested in one of the most esteemed wineries and its claim to top cru-rated vineyards. In 1989, The Royal Tokaji Wine Company was reborn, marking the beginning of the “Tokaji Renaissance” during which millions of dollars have been reinvested in the region, a recently designated World Heritage Site.

                                        

Similar to Sémillon from the Sauternes district, Tokaji fruit is susceptible to Botrytis Cinerea, (noble rot), due to mists that form at the confluence of the Tisza and Bodrog Rivers. The noble rot dries and shrivels the three notable varietals of the region: Furmint, Hárslevelú and Muscat. Tokaji Aszú has several categories of sweetness based on the measurement of noble rot-affected grapes that are kneaded into a paste and transported in 20-liter wooden tubs called “puttonyo.” The more puttonyos, the sweeter and more syrupy the wine base, which is marked on a 1 to 6 scale. It’s quite apparent that quality starts to kick in when you get to the “5 Puttonyos,” “6 Puttonyos” and “Essencia” levels; the finished product is priced accordingly.

I go bonkers for this stuff and am jazzed that we have three Royal Tokaji Wine Company Aszú(s) on the site, listed below. My mouth starts to water when I think about this rare juice. I refer to it as my “liquid strudel!” Why? I always get a golden raisin nuance throughout the palate spectrum. No other dessert wine category overloads my senses with a combination of flowery aromatics paired with apples, quince, apricots, marmalade and golden raisins. It’s common to detect back palate notes of butterscotch, carmely-brown sugar, honeyed nuts and a dash of chocolate on more aged versions. It’s possible to put a stopwatch on the super long and balanced finish, a true indication of a top-notch dessert wine. These wines are long-lived from the collector's standpoint. It has been documented that an Essencia bottling can age over a century!

I recommend pairing a 4 Puttonyos Aszú with a starter course of seared foie gras or duck liver terrine. The natural high acidity of the wine will cut through the fat of these preparations amazingly well. For the higher level of Puttonyos of 5 and 6 and then the rare Essencia, I suggest simple fruit tart preparations or, with more aged versions, a simple chocolate preparation or aged blue cheese. These wines are ideal food pairing candidates based on their low alcohol levels, which range from 8.5% to 10%. The rare and precious Essencia can be served on its own and quite often is portioned and served on a special tasting spoon!

Vinfolio is proud to showcase:

1999 Aszú Essencia - $449/500ml.
1993 and 1999 will go down as the best and only vintages that the Essencia category was made by the house. Because of its high residual sugar level, (600g/L), this wine fermented for six years and only tipped the scale at 2.9% alcohol. This could arguably be the most precious dessert wine in the world. Move over Château d’Yquem! You can be one of the few to take stock of only 600 bottles imported into the states.

2000 Tokaji Aszú ‘5 Puttonyos’ Birsalmas- $48/500ml. ~ Wine Spectator 94 points
A blend of all three noble varietals and aged in Hungarian oak for 5 years. Only 100 cases imported to the  states. Birsalmas is a single vineyard that translates to “quince.” Thus, the dominating fruit characteristic is indeed quince, backed with carmelized pear and pineapple.

1995 Tokaji Aszú ‘6 Puttonyos’ Mézes Mály- $103/500ml. ~ Wine Spectator 92 points
The Mézes Mály vineyard is one of the most noted 1er Cru vineyards of the district. Many consider it the most floral bottling of the house. Orange blossoms and fresh honey abound with a splash of juicy white peach and baked apple. The vineyard name, translated, means “honey pot." Say no more!

Over the holidays I decided to open my 3 liter of 2000 Catena Alta Cabernet Sauvignon that I had been saving for a special occasion. A few years ago I had been given this bottle as a wedding gift and wanted to share it with friends and family. It was a special treat to serve the wine from my magnum decanter to a table of thirteen, including guests from Boston, Miami, San Diego and San Paolo, Brazil. This Cabernet was a delicious pair to meat lasagna and tiramisu dessert. 

As a brief background, Catena Alta wines are a label produced by Bodegas Catena Zapata from Mendoza, Argentina. All of the Alta selections (Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay) are single varietal wines sourced from select rows of high altitude estate vineyards. The 2000 vintage is a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Malbec. During this wine’s particular growing season, the grapes benefited from warm days, adding body and concentration to the wine, as well as cool nights, providing balanced acidity and structure.

When my guests tasted this wine, the response was overwhelmingly positive. Some of the impressions included dark berry fruits such as plums and cassis. I was most struck by the chocolate and leather notes that intertwined elegantly with flavors of earth, cedar and vanilla. The wine had a full-bodied mouthfeel whose fruit and tannin structure was evident in the long finish.

Winemaker José Galante makes similar observations:

The 2000 Catena Alta Cabernet Sauvignon has a deep, dark ruby red color with violet and purple hues. The nose is powerful yet focused, with aromas of cassis and black currant fruit interwoven with a touch of eucalyptus, vanilla, cedar and leather. The mouthfeel is full, yet soft, with rich, concentrated flavors of plum and black cherry interwoven with hints of chocolate and sweet spice. The finish is structured and lingering, with firm yet finely grained tannins. 

In conclusion, I recommend that if you haven’t had the chance to try the wines by Bodegas Catena Zapata, in particular the Alta selections, 2008 is the time! The Vinfolio wine store is currently selling the 2004 Catena Alta - Cabernet Sauvignon ($44) and 2003 Catena Zapata, Nicolas - Cabernet Sauvignon ($92).

At Vinfolio's lovely Holiday Party at Medjool, here in San Francisco, we had a fun night of getting to know more about the people we spend so much time with during the day. Luckily for all of us, everyone was completely sane, fun and interesting, including the new hires we didn't yet know very well! This is good because you never know when you're growing as fast as we are.  Everyone had a great time tasting new wines and enjoying holiday revelry.

Since Vinfolio is all about the world of wine, a great double-benefit of our get-togethers is the chance to sample an assortment of our own offerings.  Along with some tasty small plates at the holiday party, we tasted some new finds and revisited others we might have enjoyed a time or two before. Here are a few of my favorites:
 
NV Ployez-Jacquemart - Brut Blanc de Blancs $42
Structure balanced with elegance. There are details in the highlights as well as a richness that keeps you consuming. I had more of this in my glass than any other wine. Very nice!
 
The Ployez-Jacquemart may inspire you to try some of his other selections:
NV Ployez-Jacquemart - Brut Selection Rose  (375ml, $27)
1998 Ployez-Jacquemart - Brut Vintage Blanc de Blancs $59
 
2006 Pra, Fratelli - Soave Classico Superiore Vigneto Monte Grande $25
An extremely flexible wine for casual sipping.  This wine has a lively feel showing layered flavors and good structure. Guests will love it!
 
1990 Lafaurie-Peyraguey $89
Though we had the 1986, it was a great reminder that I love this Sauternes, especially in great vintages like 1990. The '90 is yet another example of the "sweet spot" for me in wines--precise flavors and very persistent quality. It's a beautiful Sauternes and great with dinner from appetizer through dessert.
 
2004 Pallieres - Gigondas $23.95
Now that many more Americans have become familiar with some of the 'other' great Southern Rhone regions (outside Chateauneuf du Pape), the best wines of Gigondas usually can't be found for a price like this. Subtle spice with cherry-razzy charm and mineral lift. The wine is drinking well now and will hold for 5-7 years, no problem.
 
All of these wines get a complete stamp of approval for the continued celebrations in this season and would be great choices for a New Years get-together! That is the case whether or not you are enjoying them with people you don't yet know or those you know all-too-well!

The Holiday Season is in full swing rolling into the second week of December, as a barrage of holiday parties brings up the question of which beverage to bring to the party to elevate good cheer as well as complement a diversity of foods. My first recommendation is Champagne, specifically the “Single Grower” category. Many overlook Champagne because they think they have to jump to the $100 to $150 range to procure a grand bubbly. On the contrary, a stream of family-run and estate grown operations have been making their way into the U.S. in record numbers since the early 1990s. It’s not just about the “Big Boys” based in Epernay and Reims anymore. Production from this small band of producers is still a drop in the bucket when you consider that the top three Champagne brands account for over 65% of all the Champagne imported into this country.  

Wake up America! We have more choices than ever when it comes to excellent bubbly, and certain American retailers are taking a stance in the right direction, showcasing a variety of houses that emphasize their sense of place. Furthermore, these family-owned and operated houses frequently source from highly rated Grand Cru vineyards, in comparison to the luxury houses who only implement top-rated fruit in their most exclusive bottlings. Many of the luxury goods houses market a non-vintage category that is sweetened for the American palate. By law, a non-vintage Brut can receive a dose of sugar of up to 15 grams per liter. Many of the most recognizable and most mass produced non-vintage brands hit this mark. On the flip side, many of the “Single Grower” houses advertise a much lower dosage of sugar, averaging 6 to 9 grams per liter, allowing minerality and subtle fruit nuances to be revealed. Furthermore, many of these houses use a high percentage of Grand Cru rated fruit to make up the base for their entry level, non-vintage or multi-vintage category. You may need to spend an additional $5 to $15 on certain small house selections, but the rewards are tremendous, revealing Champagne as a truly serious wine, on par with high quality Burgundy!

I encourage the American wine public to make a New Year’s resolution to drink better quality Champagne and to demand more choices on its retail shelves from the “Single Grower” movement. The longer you are around fine wine, the more you will appreciate Champagne for its food pairing capabilities, diversity in site selection and style diversity. Vinfolio catalogues a healthy array of small producers from the non-vintage category to the vintage dated reserve cuvée. Below are six efforts that speak volumes for quality, making you seriously contemplate the unique and spectacular nature of Champagne.

Rene Geoffroy Brut 'Expression' NV   $42.00 / IWC 90

Move over Veuve ‘Yellow Label’! Geoffroy’s entry level is far from being on training wheels. It doesn’t get better for the category. Recently disgorged, 11/06, it’s split between the ’03 and ’04 vintage (24% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Meunier and 18% Pinot Noir). Be amazed by its refinement.

Rene Geoffroy Vintage Brut 1er Cru 1999   $65.00 / BH 92

The family traces ownership of their vineyards in Cumieres back to the 17^th century. This house specializes in ageing its base wines in oak foudres without malolactic fermentation. The 1999 is equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that is 100% wood vinified. This is precious nectar! Vinfolio was fortunate to source a few cases.

Roger Coulon Brut Millesime 2002    $58.00 / IWC 92

The cellars are based in Vrigny, although Eric and Isabelle Coulon own nine hectares spread across five different villages. The holdings have a high percentage of Pinot Meunier that average 40 to 60 years of age. The 2002 is approximately equal parts Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.

Jean Milan Vintage Brut 'Terres de Noel' 2002   $79.00 / IWC 92

You can’t talk about Chardonnay-driven estates without mentioning this Oger-based superstar. ‘Terres de Noel’ is a 50 year-old parcel that remains one of the finest of all the Blanc de Blancs. The 2002 vintage has been considered the best Chardonnay vintage since the heralded 1996. Tasty now, but will age gracefully for another 3 to 6 years.

Pierre Gimonnet 'Brut Paradoxe'1er Cru 2002   $49.00 / IWC 92

Growers in the village of Cuis since 1750, this house specializes in Chardonnay. However, the ‘Paradoxe’ incorporates 50% Pinot Noir from the ‘Les Clefs’ climat in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. The Pinot Noir really shines on the nose!

Bruno Paillard 'Brut Millesime Assemblage' 1996     $55.00 / IWC 92

The house of Paillard, based in Reims, is the vision of Bruno Paillard, who built the house from scratch. This was one of the first firms to include disgorgement dates on the back label.  The 1996 vintage is one of my favorites for this spectacular vintage at a song of a price.

'Tis the Season as they say…for drinking multiple bottles of wine in good company. Here are 8 great wines to be purchasing in case quantity. For sure, they are excellent values. But importantly for this time of year they are wines that pass several of my tests for purchasing by the case:

1) Great quality to price ratio
2) Wines that are less familiar – good conversation starters
3) Perfect for drinking with or without food – great “cocktail” or aperitif wines
4) Pairing proficiency – they will pair with a variety of foods, cooking styles, seasonings and seasons (spring through winter)
5) Palate pleasing – wine that will please all guests
6) Ready to enjoy – at least with some air, or time in the glass, the wine will show itself well

Here they are listed in alternating White and Red, just like a candy cane!

2006 Cheveau, Michel - Macon Solutre-Pouilly Sur le Mont $18
Chardonnay
Fresh! That's the name of the game here with a sublime entry of apple-citrus, fresh creamery butter and liquid quartz mainline mineral. This is a fabulous wine that attains a much higher plain then its humble appellation reveals. A palate that is crisp and polished with perfect lift and golden apple, crème brûlée and fresh fig vying for prominence. Very elegant and precise. You could easily pay double.  - Cyrille Hanson, Vinfolio

2003 Sportoletti - Villa Fidelia $33.95
Merlot, Cab, Cab Franc
Clean red, with plum, berry and a hint of floral and dark chocolate character. Full-bodied, with fine tannins and a well-balanced, fresh mineral finish. Delicious even now. Lots of new wood. 3,000 cases made. - James Suckling, Wine Spectator

2005 Margerum - Sauvignon Blanc Purisima Mountain Vineyard $22
Doug Margerum produces many wines but this would be my choice for the "Desert Island" providing I had a corkscrew. This is the last of the 2005 available, so don't be shy. The aromas are violet, creamy white peach, flint and a pure expression of grape. The flavors are beautifully focused with crisp stone fruit flavors that continue to soften on the palate. - Doug Wilder, Vinfolio Issue 122

2003 Rockburn - Pinot Noir $ 29
Good medium red. Dark cherry, spices, smoked meat, fresh herbs and brambly underbrush on the nose. Sweet, silky and fresh, with nuanced flavors of red berries, mocha, sassafras and earth; showed increasing definition as it opened in the glass. Finishes with rather soft tannins and a slight edge of acidity. - Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar Issue 122

2006 Hiedler, Ludwig - Gruner Veltliner Thal $25
Medium green-yellow. Pronounced tropical fruit and nutty components are interwoven with tobacco-like spice and pineapple on the nose and in the mouth. Full-bodied and juicy, thanks to playful acidity. Flavors of sweet yellow peach, green peppercorn and minerals persist impressively on the finish. Still has tremendous potential for further development in the bottle. Drink 2008 to 2018. - Peter Moser, International Wine Cellar Issue 135

2005 Numanthia - Termes $25
Tempranillo
Dark ruby. Ripe cherry and plum aromas are complicated by espresso and dark chocolate. Powerful, densely packed dark berry flavors are distinctly ripe, with chewy tannins adding structure. And yet this is surprisingly light on its feet, finishing with gentle acid lift and brighter red berry character. Not a blockbuster by any stretch.  - Josh Raynolds, International Wine Cellar Issue 134

2006 Pra, Fratelli - Soave Classico Superiore Vigneto Monte Grande $25
Garganega
A rich, perfumed nose of golden apple and pear leaps out of the glass. Fresh, effusive notes of mineral-laden lemon oil, apple butter and crisp Anjou pear hang about and are finished off with a dry, honeyed/marzipan aspect. Lively and refreshing despite its broad, intense palate. Gorgeous and bursting with flavor. A top-notch producer that doesn't skimp on quality. - Cyrille Hanson, Vinfolio

2004 Pallieres - Gigondas $23.95
Grenache blend
Medium red. Highly complex aromas of red fruits and pungent herbs, warmed by a gentle toasty oak tone. Suave flavors of raspberry and cherry are accented by lavender and bitter chocolate. Finishes on a sweet note, with dusty tannins and a lingering spice character.

2006 Venica & Venica - Pinot Grigio $19
Great fruit and structure with clean, crispness despite a more giving, lushness than lesser Grigio.

The recent pricing trends of top Bordeaux have probably been frustrating for those of us who don’t run hedge funds or aren’t paid in Euros. It’s easy for these wines to fall off of our radar as they resemble hot stocks, ticking northward. But every once in a while, we are reminded of the reasons these wines are so coveted. Over dinner I recently tried a beautiful bottle of 1983 Margaux, a wine that I hadn’t consumed in a couple of years. This Margaux possesses an elegance and femininity rarely found in Cabernet-based wines. And there’s really something special about fine Bordeaux when it obtains secondary characteristics and its tannins begin to melt away, leaving a polished, silky, complex wine behind. Many of us have set our sights on other regions that might posses a bit more "bang for the buck" or intellectual stimulation. But it’s hard to deny the quality of top vintages from the best chateaux. To quote Ferris Bueller, "If you have the means, I highly recommend picking one up."

A few months ago, I attended an Italian wine trade event that showcased a regional snapshot of the country’s many diverse growing districts. My mission for this tasting was to sample oddities that I don’t necessarily taste on a regular basis. One can't comprehend Italian wines in all their glory by drinking only Barolo and Brunello. With this in mind, I gravitated to the Southern Italian section of the tasting and stumbled onto my dark horse find for 4Q of ’07 and also my favorite winery duo of the tasting - Vestini Campagnano.

The two varietals that I tasted from this winery are native to the province of Caserta, north of Naples. Vestini’s tandem one-two-punch showcases Pallagrello, one of the few ancient vines that has both a white and red version that was highly prized during Roman times. Pallagrello Bianco is believed to be one of the blending grapes for the Roman’s most famous wine-Falernum. Centuries later, it’s documented that Pallagrello Rosso was a favorite of Ferdinando IV, Bourbon King of the Two Sicilies, who shared it with honored guests towards the end of the Napoleonic Era. Pallagrello was all too close to extinction, if it wasn’t for two lawyer friends, Giuseppe Mancini and Alberto Barletta, who created Vestini Campagnano in the early 1990s with the mission to preserve these ancient varietals and to make world-class wines. Based on my notes and the Italian press, the owners have succeeded with high marks.

I was pleasantly surprised to find the same wines on Vinfolio’s site a few weeks ago. Good job buyers! Now it’s my job to speak the gospel and get these darlings into your hands. With over 250 Italian selections on the site, sourcing older Super Tuscans and 2004 Nebbiolo from Piedmont is perhaps the priority for the serious collector with investment in mind, but for those who want to think out of the box, Vestini Campagnano needs to be at the top of your list.

2006 Vestini Campagnano Pallagrello Bianco-$34
You would be hard pressed to taste a wine that has more layers of flavor than this effort, especially for the price tag. This is not your $10.00 Pinot Grigio sipper you find in the value stacks at your local store, but a wine that has an infinite amount of superlatives that will leave you wanting another sip to figure out all that is happening on the palate. I’ll clue you in. Here’s a viscous wonder without cumbersome oak.  The bouquet and entry reveals a menagerie of candied stone fruits, ripe pineapple, citrus peel and floral white blossoms. The mid-palate and finish reveal an almond theme that hinges on fresh marzipan fused with a subtle smoky note.  The acidity on the back end cuts through the layers of cream to make your lips smack for another sip.

2004 Vestini Campagnano Pallagrello Nero-$59
The estate’s red version captures iodine and minerals from the volcanic soil that it’s grown in. This mineral edge is perfectly integrated with bombastic blackberry and boysenberry fruit, but don’t think ultra jammy Zinfandel that weighs in at 15.9% alc., but a wine with restraint of 13.5 to 13.9% alc. Like its white counterpart, this high-altitude growing grape has balanced acidity and a similar profile to the more famous Campanian cultivar, Aglianico, with a backdrop of pepper, licorice and worked leather that is encased in a healthy dose of natural tannins. These tannins are fine grained, like Bordeaux’s Cabernet based blends, and make for a wonderful alternative to let hibernate in your cellar. The 2004 effort is a baby, but if you’re driven by curiosity to try, then please decant for two hours.  The day of this trade event, the winery representative poured me a 1999 vintage from the estate that he had hiding under the table. Man o’ man, talk about a heady and remarkable nose of violets that echoed a similar fruit spectrum mentioned above with an amazing dry finish that reminded me of a classy Bordeaux or Barolo of pedigree.

Are you kidding me? Cote-Rotie for $34 bucks? This must be 1990 once again!

The 2003 Gerin, Jean-Michel - Cote-Rotie Champin Le Seigneur was just put in a sale offer and is available in the Wine Store now for $33.95. Well, perhaps I would take you to a couple other wines first if you had called me and said “Matt, I need a great Cote-Rotie,” or “Show me a classic example of Northern Rhone Syrah.” The vintage is a wee bit uncharacteristic. But if this wine is very good at $50—which it is—it’s a bargain at $33.95. Heck, tell us to round it off to $40 and buy 5 bottles.

Black fruit on the nose with a bit of wild berry, smoke and mineral.  Milk chocolate, smoked nuts and crushed blueberries surprise with just a bit of tartness. That ‘edge’ keeps you sipping along instead of gulping which you’d otherwise want to do with this wine.

Have a fantastic Thanksgiving everybody and enjoy some great wines!

Yet again I return to why I love White Burgundy. I think it comes down to the following five factors:

1. Chardonnay has an amazing diversity of expression from steely Chablis to creamy Meursault.
2. There are great examples at all price points (not always true with domestic Chardonnay).
3. With age, white Burgundies develop complexity and nuttiness, but still keep an edge of acidity. They also have longer life spans than domestic Chardonnay.
4. There is so much to learn about growing sites and vineyards - from villages, lieu dit, and Premier Cru, to the ultimate Grand Cru vineyards. Thanks to Burghound’s Quarterly Newsletter, I can learn more about these properties and compare my tasting notes with those of a true specialist.
5. French vineyard names are fun to pronounce and sometimes have amusing translations such as Chablis “Les Grenouilles” (frogs), St Aubin Les Murgers des “Dents de Chien” 1er Cru (dog’s teeth), Meursault “Sous le Dos d'Ane” 1er Cru (below the donkey’s back).

Recently I enjoyed a bottle of 2005 Charles Audoin Marsannay Blanc which I thought was a great every day drinking wine, and would rate it 90 points. It had a briny nose and a palate displaying ripe apple, citrus and minerals. As the wine warmed in the glass, it displayed subtle notes of nectarine, vanilla and toast (pain grillé). The relatively weighty body and texture contributed to its medium plus length. This selection made me take a second look at Marsannay, a new and as yet, little-known appellation (which also sources fruit for rouge and rose versions).

I first heard about the greatness of the 2004 vintage in Piedmont a few years ago when Italian importers began bringing in the fresh and crisp Arneis bottlings from the Roero hills. I was thrilled by the overall balance of fruit and acidity in these aromatic whites. This was a precursor for great things to come. The next wave of wines that I tasted, noting the overall pedigree, was the wave of Dolcettos and Barberas that were starting to hit the market. Perfetto!! Both un-oaked, entry level versions to the single vineyard designates dressed in flashy oak have put me in a state of gastronomic wellness. In the back of my mind, I realized that there would be a treasure trove of spectacular Nebbiolo from the esteemed the villages of Barbaresco and Barolo to follow.

The Piedmont harvest in 2004 was marred by heavy winter rains. Although welcomed after the hot and dry 2003 season, there was all out concern for delayed bud break and early attacks of downy mildew in the vineyards. The summer was picture perfect, with moderate temperatures, allowing for the vine to develop normally. Then September and early October was noted by seasonally high temperatures and days of full sunshine allowing for growers to wait for the opportune time to pick at perfect ripeness.  Many veteran vintners couldn’t remember a vintage like this one since 1990 and perhaps the legendary 1964 vintage. Growers who maintained low yields were rewarded for their hard work for a vintage in which the international wine community is running out of superlatives to describe. Winemakers were enthralled by the quality, purity, balance and intensity that the vintage produced.

Fast forward to fourth quarter 2007: Vinfolio announces the first release of cru classé Nebbiolo from the village of Barbaresco. Let’s get excited here! The fleet of Barbaresos are similar to 2001, but with more generosity of fruit and finesse that you should expect from this village.  2004 Barolo from all reports is lining up to be a classic, and must have for the serious collector and budding collector wanting to expand into a classic age-worthy category. The vintage showcases wines with loads of ripe fruit that is both concentrated and floral. Tannin levels are more present compared to let’s say the noted 2000 vintage; however, they are rounder and more finely integrated as a finish product. Vinfolio will start posting pre-arrival confirmations on the 2004 Barolo releases starting in early winter and spring 2008. Please e-mail me at neil@vinfolio.com, if you want to receive e-mail alerts on incoming 2004 selections.

2004 Barbaresco and Barolo should be on every collector’s priority list. For the Piedmont enthusiast or even newbie, I highly recommend purchasing more entry level 2004 Langhe Nebbiolo, Dolcetto and Barberas to drink now. Collectors should note that the overall quality of Barbaresco and Barolo will allow for cellar age-ability for at least 7 to 15 years of time.

Please note a few highlights of the vintage that have posted in our wine store in the last month:

2004 Domenico Clerico ‘Langhe Arte’    $44.00-750ml, (AG 90)
A 90% Nebbiolo and 10% Barbera assemblage all dressed up for the party! A modern interpretation seasoned new French barrique. The fruit is sourced from noted Monforte d’Alba crus of Ginestra, Pajana and Bussia. A great cellar buy if you want to keep in budget!

2004 Ronchi Barbaresco            $37.00-750ml & $82.00-1.5L (VF 92)
This is too tempting to drink now at a steal of a price! Although an infant, this wine is already silky and voluptuous out of the gate. You’ll want to supersize to the magnum format.

2004 Ceretto Barbaresco ‘Bricco Asili’    $119.00- 750ml & $245.00-1.5L (WA 94)
Bricco Asili was the first Ceretto holding that dates back to 1973. 2004 has enough violets on the nose to make your head spin in amazement!

2004 Vietti Barbaresco ‘Masseria’        $84.95-750ml & $185.00-1.5L (WA 93)
Castiglione Falletto powerhouse Vietti produces a barrage of great wines, however the ‘Masseria’ multiple personality of elegance on the nose paired with intensity of espresso, sweet pipe tobacco and black licorice makes for an intriguing acquisition!

2000 Noval - Vintage Port  ($80) 

There are many situations when the quality of a great vintage lifts an otherwise average or even good wine. This can even bolster the reputation of a winery through one growing season - virtually overnight in terms of wine. Likewise, there is often occasion to cite of one of my favorite mantras: "great winemakers make great wine, regardless." This is commonly true even in so-called "lesser" vintages. But, oh, when those two forces of vintage and winemaking align perfectly like they did for 2000 vintage Oporto, you have myriad instant classics!

This wine, at this price is phenomenal. Perhaps we have a case remaining in stock because Port is often a second thought, or a seasonal interest (another unfortunate fact). It could be the idea for some that they’ll have to wait 20 years or more to let the wine reveal everything it will have to offer.

Well really, that’s one of the beauties of this wine and other ports. You can drink them young if you have the right foods (cheese course anyone?) and if you can deal with a mouthful of big wine. Truly, the details will show and the tannins are often sweet. This port will surely be something different in 20 years - more elegant, even graceful. Nuance will change, but performance will be awesome on both sides of its life.  For now, I promise great cheer in the glass: black cherry, blackberry, mocha, anise, grape gumdrops-all neatly served in a fairly silken package.  This wine was delicious with 75-year old balsamico drizzled over flank steak, with a walnut crust and Portobello/truffle shavings. Wow!

What with the stellar 2001s and 2004s that stand to benefit from cellar aging and the disappointing 2002s, I would like to offer the argument that the more value-oriented of the 2003 Piedmontese wines most greatly reward current drinking. I recently enjoyed Aldo Conterno’s 2003 Langhe Quartetto ($26) to unwind after watching a tension-inducing vampire movie. A novel blend composed mostly of the traditional Nebbiolo with 25% each of Cab and Merlot, and a splash of Barbera with each vinified individually, this medium-bodied wine was a striking blood red at the core with a slightly watery rim. I initially perceived an aroma eerily reminiscent of the dark, juicy, warm plums picked from my childhood backyard, followed by sleek black leather and blood-dampened earth. Ok, perhaps the movie was still on my mind. Easily quaffable and simply pleasurable, the Quartetto displayed a notably modern winemaking style without disregard for its venerable terroir. It was also enjoyable the following evening with braised short ribs.

I’ve just returned from a car camping trip and have determined that:

    a) Hiking-in is overrated (fine when I'm in my 20s and trying to impress a new boyfriend)
    b) Freeze-dried food is overrated (you can only "adulterate" foam eggs so much)
    c) Beans & weenies do have a complementary wine pairing

While celebrating a cousin's 45th birthday in Sonoma, I realized that "civilized" camping needs to include something other than PBR and Jell-o shots, and much to my delight, my fellow campers admitted as much. Now, don't go changing the chow - these nature retreats/revelries are about the only chance I have to indulge my dark desire for hot dogs, unlimited Lays potato chips, industrial onion dip and marshmallow delights. But, since all the attendees were part of either the food and/or wine industry, we shared an absolute boatload of sparkling and still wines that managed the menu with aplomb. Here's a sampling of what we imbibed and what it matched to:

Ployez-Jacquemart NV Blanc de Blancs: And you thought Slim Jims had no partner! When someone broke out the summer sausage, beef jerky and Greek olives (along with the Cheetos), we popped a few bottles of this and settled in. The delicate purity and streamlined mineral/acid of this bubbly is the perfect foil to salty/savory/greasy fare. It provides lift and refreshment to the palate and readies it for the next bite.

Belle Glos 2006 Pinot Noir Blanc Oeil de Perdrix: Any food fan realizes the worth of a sturdy rosé when it comes to the myriad of flavors a camping trip throws at you. This rosé held up not only with the remnants of the Cheetos, but played right into the potato salad and couscous/spiced sausage portion of the gala. Once again, firm acidity, beautiful strawberry and watermelon fruits, and a bit of palate texture allowed the wine to handle the creamy, spicy, acid components of the pairing.

Yves Cuilleron 2006 "Candives" Syrah: OK, here we go...meat portion of the meal. The men got out their tools and started the routine of debating optimum ember glow, grill height and whether to stick-a-fork-in-it or flip with tongs. Meanwhile, the women, knowing the guys were going to end up dropping half of it into the flames, debated the merits of this lovely vin de table from the terroir of Syrah. This wine is a treat of pure and bright black plum, currants and violets, with a grip that is at once tenacious yet elegant. The bitter chocolate and white pepper spice covered all bases – hot dogs, steak and lamb sirloin.

Royal Tokaji – Tokaji Aszu "Birsalmas" 5 Puttonyos: OK, I have to admit, this is a bit esoteric, but I do have a Vizsla whose name is Puttonyo, and all my friends are wine geeks...go figure. Knowing the bakers that were going to be bringing their wares, as well as the marshmallow frenzy that would occur, I figured something with dried fruit characteristics and a stunning acid structure should do justice to all comers. And boy, did it perform! Not only with the sweet, gooey marshmallow, but with the pumpkin pie, biscotti and shortbread. Realize that Tokaji, even though it is a dessert wine, has such great acidity, that it is not cloying on the palate. Also, a little goes a long way.

Here were a few others that were enjoyed as well...my editor is pleading space constraints.

Jean Vesselle NV Brut "Oeil de Perdrix," Alvaro Palacios 2005 "Les Terrasses," Bouissiere 2005 Gigondas "Font de Tonin," Pelissero 2004 "I Piani" Barbera d’Alba.

 

2006 Weingart Schloss Furstenberg Riesling Kabinett, $20

A fairly subdued nose at this stage, gives away to intensity from beginning to end. This is a wine that can stand as a course on its own. Stoney peach, subtle almond and sloe berries come through first as well as floral notes in the background. These elements seem to dance together with a refreshing effervescent quality. The Furstenberg is always an interesting dichotomy of delicate and intense. Pair this with a baked light-meat, roasted veggies and a nice, warm winter chutney—prepare to raise an eyebrow!

I have a love affair with Aglianico [ah-LYAH-nee-koh]! Maybe it’s my nonconformist attitude of branching out to uncommon growing regions that deserve the spotlight. Perhaps it’s that I need more variety in my life. For Italian wine enthusiasts, Agliancio might be familiar, but usually mentioned as an afterthought to Sangiovese from Tuscany and Nebbiolo from Piedmont. Well, the 'Aglianco Renaissance' is alive and well, establishing itself as the banner grape varietal of Southern Italy. Campania and Basilicata lay claim to the finest Aglianico with new plantings popping up in neighboring Puglia and even in Sicily. The grape is believed to have originated in Greece, but it was the Phoenicians who were responsible for its arrival, first into Basilicata and then later migrating into Campania. The name is derived from 'Ellenico,' one of the Italian adjectives to indicate of 'Greek' origin.  Aglianico was famous in the ancient world for the production of 'Falernum,' an ancient wine that was highly prized by Roman nobility and the literary community.

The vine was almost wiped out from both phylloxera and a poor economy in the late 19th and early 20th century with only a band of a few family estates willing to tend to the ancient vine.  The house of Mastroberardino based in Avellino is credited for the revival of the varietal in the late 1960s. Back then and even today, the finest Campanian Aglianico is sourced from the village of Taurasi, the only D.O.C.G. village classification in the region. The wines of Taurasi are long lived and have similar ageing qualities to Piedmont’s Nebbiolo found in the esteemed villages of Barolo and Barbaresco. I highly recommend Italian collectors to make room for some Taurasi in their cellars. These wines can age gracefully for 5 to 15 years. I have tasted well-aged Taurasi and it’s memorable for its silky layers of dried dark fruits, leather and tobacco.

Today, Aglianco production has doubled from the late 1970s and some very impressive and approachable versions may be found in the D.O.C.s of Avellino, Irpinia and Taburno with affordable price tags to boot. Genetically, Aglianico has a high tannin and acid component, which makes for a great cellar-worthy wine, comparable to great Nebbiolo. Younger vine versions are made in a softer style emphasizing primary fruit. Beyond its chemical makeup, Aglianco on the palate opens up to primary fruits of blackberries, black cherries, black currants followed by nuances of smoky tar, tobacco, licorice and coffee-espresso notes. Aglianico deserves slow roasted or braised meat dishes. However, a grilled burger or favorite steak preparation can pair marvelously with a younger, fruitier rendition.

Vinfolio is proud to feature three 100% Aglianicos and five Aglianico inspired blends from Campania, geared more for the cellar. The 2001s listed on the site can be enjoyed now, but I do recommend aerating for a solid 90 minutes in a decanter. Leg of Lamb anyone? Below are four of my highest recommendations!

2001 Caggiano - Taurasi Vigna Macchia dei Goti ($39, IWC 94)
Fasten your seat belts for an Aglianico tour de force … vigorous but elegant. Taurasi at an attractive price!

2003 Masseria Felicia  - Falerno del Massico ($62)
The Falerno del Massico D.O.C. is north of Naples, not far from Vesuvius. Old-vine Aglianico (80%) and Piedirosso (20%) are grown on volcanic ash. Maybe one of the most profuse violent blossom noses I've come across of any Italian wine.

2003 Galardi - Terra di Lavoro ($115)
The Galardi estate is based in the high volcanic hills of Sessa Aurunca in northwestern Campania, north of Naples. 80% of the blend is Aglianico rounded out with native Piedirossso and Cabernet Sauvignon. The Gambero Rosso guide honored the 2003 with the highest rating of three glasses. Worth every penny!

2001 Terredora di Paolo – Taurasi ($41, Vinfolio 92)
Campania’s largest producer and vineyard owner made an ethereal Taurasi in 2001. An extremely balanced wine in its youth! The featured offering goes beyond appellation regulations by ageing the wine for 30 months in French barrique and another 18 months in bottle.

I had some old friends over on Wednesday for a tasting of several bottles of Brunello di Montalcino, a region that has lately been of great interest to this particular group. We sampled (2) 2001s, (2) 1997s and a 100% Sangiovese Super-Tuscan as a ringer – all tasted blind.

The 1997s stole the show. I’ve recently been tasting examples from this intriguing and controversial vintage. For such a well-established region, it seems there’s no consensus on the overall quality of the 1997s – while one reviewer heralds the vintage as one of the best ever, another declares it lackluster. When opinions are across the board, there’s only one way to find out.

The two 1997s we tried were the Greppone Mazzi by Ruffino ($69) and the Argiano ($75). Both were excellent, but rather different. The Greppone Mazzi was the overall favorite of the evening, since it was the most mature, complex and expressive. Dark red and black fruits as well as beautiful earthy mushroom and tobacco notes is what this wine’s all about. Full-bodied, balanced and long, it has the stuffing to last at least 5 more years. The Argiano was a close second by a hair. I think it’s a slightly better wine overall, but is not quite at its peak. It has great concentration, impeccable balance and is truly a complete wine with an enormously bright future. Because it’s still on the upswing of its evolution, it didn’t flaunt as much plumage as the Greppone Mazzi, but will out-class it in time. It’s funny. One reviewer scored the Argiano at 96 points, another at 87. I now know with whom my opinion aligns.

The Vinfolio “Wine Team” had a nice dinner together Monday night at a restaurant called NOPA, here in San Francisco. We welcomed a new wine buyer and toasted our East Coast-based representative who is in town this week. The food, service (nice glass-service too for 8 wines) and the company was delightful—and I’m not just saying that because Vinfolio picked up the tab!

My most lasting impression of the evening though was of the two Jayer-Gilles Burgundies we consumed: 1995 Echezeaux and 1997 Nuits St Georges Les Damodes. They raised their game above the other six or so wines that circled the table and I was struck by their “completeness” at this point. 1997 was always a fairly ‘easy,’ soft vintage so even a mineral-laden NSG would usually show pretty well at this point after a few years. I’ll certainly recommend that someone pick up the last bottle of 1997 Nuits St. Georges Les Poirets ($75)—another of Jayer-Gilles’ 1er Cru. The silky 1997 Echezeaux is a fantastic bargain and most highly recommended if I’m allowed to extrapolate via these five associations: 

1. Quality of the 1995 Echezeaux from Monday night meets the friendly 1997 vintage we tested via the Nuits St Georges.
2. I have similar notes on several other J-G Echezeaux vintages.
3. 85 for a Grand Cru from an excellent producer!
4. 9 Bottles remaining in inventory—so you can try it and buy it again!
5. Highly rated by not just me, but four other critical resources!

Here are some notes on the 1995 Echezeaux (it’s the 1997 we still have for sale). Call me in a few days for the 1997-specific review which shouldn’t differ much!

Slight cedar and fig on the nose, as well as quite a bit of celery-seed. That follows on the palate with the first sip and develops into ripe dark-cherry, Mediterranean spices and roots—anise, licorice, coriander. Slightly tar-y and cola through a fairly persistent finish.

And for other velvety 1997s you can use this link: 1997 Red Burgundy at Vinfolio (10-3-07)

Here is part 2 as promised of some of my favorite sale wines that have been marked down in the Wine Store—this being the under $100 list. In my last entry I mentioned my delight in seeing so many potentially great suggestions for folks—wines that shouldn’t have to be marked down but are (with such a great inventory, some wines just inevitably get overlooked—at least for a little while!) But there are also times when I need to steer clear of the Wine Sale link: Wine Sale. I’m such a sucker for “bin-ends” and sale-prices in general that I have to save me from myself! The guilt wells-up in me when I click the “checkout” button if I also happen to glance at the picture on my desk of my lovely wife and French bulldog, “Bugsy.” I remember our resolute goal of keeping our family budget on track. Heck, I’m already well-over the wine budget and it’s only September!
 
My Favorite Wines on Sale (under $100):

2003 Ambroise, Bertrand - Corton Le Rognet
Was $95; Now $84
Dark and big; chocolate covered cherries with an espresso bean “pit.”
                                                              
2002 Montevetrano – Colli di Salerno
Was $82; Now $69
Boy, this wine is unmistakable Italian juice! Bright, tart red berry with Asian spices that front a cherry mid-palate. The wine adeptly balances sweet and sour notes.

2003 Lecheneaut - Nuits St Georges Les Pruliers 1er Cru
Was $68; Now $58
Fairly smoky, with a bit of leather and blue fruit at the start. The wine gains sweetness in the glass and is less NSG-minerally than typical. This is a great value without the sale price and something to pour for your friends crossing over from CA Pinot.

2003 Monbousquet – Blanc
Was $55; Now $49
This is lemon meringue with a creamy, orange-lavender infused brûlée. Lovely now and suitable to use as a starter or with a full meal.

2002 Viader – Syrah
Was $58; Now $48
A fairly soft palate with varying rudiments of baked fig, brambly, wild berry and melted dark chocolate. I’m usually buying their excellent Proprietary Red, but this is a real fun wine and a true crowd pleaser.

2001 Snowden - Cabernet Sauvignon
Was $55; Now $41
Darn serious Cabernet shows old-world herbaceous and new-world fruit. Cassis and black olive are framed in a judicious amount of wood.

2004 Spinetta - Monferrato Rosso Pin
Was $42; Now $36
Barbera with Nebbiolo always offers some easy to approach qualities, yet finishes with wine-cellar bravado. For best reward, let it breath and serve with a grilled flank with soy-ginger glaze.

2003 Doisy-Daene 2eme Cru
Was $36; Now $29
Remember the song used in the Heinz Ketchup commercial, “Anticipation”? Well, it suits this wine here, not because it isn’t ready yet. When you turn the glass over and wait for those last unctuous, sweet drops to hit your tongue, you’ll know what I mean. Cooked apples with cinnamon/hazelnut topping and pineapple upside-down cake.                                        

2003 Tablas Creek – Syrah
Was $35; Now $29
Earthen backbone supports both the vibrant acidity and the red & black boysenberry fruit.
 
2004 Venica and Venica - Ronco delle Cime
Was $27; Now $23
Granny-Smith apples and eau-de-vie poached white peaches. This wine has a finish missing from many of the cheap imitations utilizing the Tocai Friulano grape.

The 2003 Guigal “La La’s” are some of most collectible wines released this year.  Epic vintages are rare for the Northern Rhone.  Finest vintages for the Northern Rhone include 2003, 1999, 1995, 1991, 1990, 1989, 1988, 1985, 1983, 1978, 1976, and 1969.

• Collectibility:  The “Big Three” represent the pinnacle of winemaking and are the flagships of their appellation.  Guigal is undisputedly one of the world’s most important producers and the La La’s are three of the most collectible wines in the world.
• Appellation/Location:  Cote-Rotie in the Northern Rhone
• Varietal Blend:  Syrah and Viognier (typically from 0-10%)
• Aromatic and textural profile:  Fleshy, rich, fragrant, smoky, and full-bodied with notes of cassis, black raspberry, violets, bacon fat, olives and grilled meats
• Production:  typically La Mouline(3.5 acres) and La Turque(2.5 acres) totals 400 cases each, and La Landonne (6.2 acres) totals 800 cases.
  In 2003, La Mouline totaled 230, La Turque totaled 210, and La Landonne totaled 500 cases due to excessive heat wave.

• Average age of the vines

La Mouline: 75 years
La Turque: 15 years
La Landonne: 25 years

• Terroir and Viticulture:  Cote-Rotie translates as “the roasted hillside” which sits on the western bank of the Rhone with a perfectly southeasterly exposure.  The two hillsides are named Cote Blonde and Cote Brune.  Both are extremely steep, (gradient of 30-55 degrees) vines are terraced, and each vine is trained by Guyot method.  Exposure is central to the wine profile imparting a low density of vines, and low yields.

Cote Blonde:  Contains more sand, granulite, and limestone resulting in wines that are more perfumed and fragrant, round, supple, and more approachable in youth. Virtually all of the Viognier planted in Cote-Rotie is on the Cote Blonde.

Cote Brune:  The northernmost slope composed of more clay and iron resulting in wines that are darker in color, noticeably tannic, and with more power and weight.  Cote-Rotie’s longest lived wines.

• Vineyard notes, terroir, vinification:

          La Mouline:

-Concave slopes and terraces of vines with full southerly exposition so ripens several days earlier and harvested first (can harvest in 3-4 hours).
-Fruit is from the Cote Blonde and contains 11% Viognier.
-No destemming and 42 months in new oak (Alliers and Nevers), pump-over not punch-down.
-Goal is to make it the most supple, seductive, and perfumed.  Results in one of the world’s most intensely perfumed wines with aromas of bacon fat, smoke, cassis, white flowers and black olives.

          La Turque:

-Convex slope so receives sunshine all day, not as steep as La Landonne
-Contains 7% Viognier.  
-Synthesis of La Mouline and La Landonne.  Situated in the Cote Brune but vineyard is closer to Cote Blonde than La Landonne.        
-Vinification is the same as La Landonne.        
-Rhone’s answer to Musigny and Richebourg.

La Landonne:

-Steep aspect with 63 degree gradient, (imagine picking fruit from the down slope of a roller coaster).  
-100% Syrah from northern part of the Cote Brune so the wine is massive and intense from soils high in iron content.  
-No destemming, closed tank fermentation and auto-pigeage (for fat and softness), and 42 months in new oak (Alliers and Nevers).
-Most opaque, powerful, dense, and long lived showing more smoke, anise, Asian spice, cassis and grilled meat aromas and flavors.  

2003 Guigal, E - Cote-Rotie La Mouline    $825    Prearrival
WA 100    Drink Date 2007-2037
The 2003 Cote Rotie La Mouline is by far the most delicate and elegant wine (11% Viognier is co-fermented with 89% Syrah), but the enormous aromatics of spring flowers intermixed with creme de cassis, black raspberry, mocha, caramel, and cola, and enormous full-bodied opulence and striking velvety, seamless texture make for one of the most memorable wines anyone could every drink. This wine should age effortlessly for 25-30 or more years.

2003 Guigal, E - Cote-Rotie La Turque    $825    Prearrival
WA 100    Drink Date 2009-2037
A pure aromatic smorgasbord is offered by the 2003 Cote Rotie La Turque, which has an amazing aromatic profile of espresso coffee interwoven with scorched earth, tar, truffle, incense, blackberry, bacon fat, and flowers. Powerful, thick flavors ooze across the palate with a viscous texture, amazing purity, and just enough acidity and tannin to give uplift and precision to this remarkable tour de force in winemaking. Of the 2003s, this is also approachable, but ideally 2-5 years of cellaring would be suggested, and the wine will evolve for at least 30 more years.

2003 Guigal, E - Cote-Rotie La Landonne    $825    Prearrival
WA 100    Drink Date 2007-2037
Dense purple to the rim with a nose of graphite, creosote, earth, olives, and black, black, black fruits, the primordial, full-bodied, monumental 2003 Cote Rotie La Landonne is amazing stuff. I suspect this is more akin to a dry vintage port than most Cote Roties ever tend to be, but the purity, the richness, the texture, the length are all out of this world. This wine does need some patience on the part of its purchasers, probably five years, more likely 8-10, but then one of the world's most compelling elixirs will be at its peak for another 20-30+ years.

I have often found that I’ve preferred wines with lower scores. Of course, this can never be generalized (and under normal circumstances, quite the opposite is true). However, I have deduced that in many instances, the size of a wine - i.e. the overall scale in relation to extract, body, concentration of fruit…the BIGGER the wine is - tends to contribute to higher ratings. I have tasted many wines that merit a 96-point score from a respectable and experienced critic that possess the same level of intensity, balance, complexity and length as a wine that merits a 93-point score from the same critic. And I have concluded that in many of these cases, the differentiating factor in the scoring variance is a wine’s size and power.  This rationale may help explain why there are far more 99-point wines from Australia than there are from Burgundy.

For those of us with a preference for wines that possess a bit more grace, elegance and sophistication as opposed to power and body, then it’s entirely possible for a slightly lower score to suggest that you may prefer it over a similar wine with a higher rating. Note that it’s always important to read the description of the wine and to couple that information with the rating, since the description will likely give tidbits on the wine’s character, but too often people equate a higher score to a better wine...not so!

I recently tried both the 1995 and 1996 Grand Puy Lacoste (Paulliac) and found that I had a definitive preference for the 1996 (RP 93) over the 1995 (RP 95). Because of their relative value in a sea of expensive Bordeaux, these two wines have been relentlessly compared to each other with varying conclusions. While both wines are quite powerful, the 1995 clearly has the upper hand in this regard, but lacks the nuance, sophistication and class of the 1996. There is a slightly higher level of acidity and less body, which to me, brings the wine to a greater level of balance and harmony. The 1996 Grand Puy Lacoste ($110) is really a delightful wine: intensely aromatic, impeccably balanced, very complex and quite sophisticated. In my humble...expert opinion, it’s got the upper hand over its older sibling and as the score suggests, less is more.

My Favorite Wines On-Sale (over $100)

There’s always so many “new” wines coming into inventory (recent vintages or previous ones) that I love when my inner-miser reminds me that we have a whole “Wine Sale” category. There’s bunches of tasty stuff that most often surprises me that it would still be in stock—and need to be reduced in price at that!

2002 Rouget (Jayer, George) – Echezeaux
Was $449; Now $399
This is not to be confused with the very nice but more commonly available wine from Domaine Rouget which is a blend of 3 parcels from his famous Uncles’ holdings (3 Jayer brothers). This wine is scarce and made with only George’s plants.

1994 Valandraud
Was $325; Now $289
These wines were just as sought-after as First Growths and this is much more scarce. Small production with very low yields and concentrated fruit.  Ahead of their time in many ways though not surprising with Thunevin as the proprietor.  This is one of their best vintages unexpectedly and a value play, in fact, along with the 1997.

2004 Chapoutier, M – Cote Rotie La Mordoree
Was $122; Now $99
Another great value play. This is pretty intense and deep. It’s a good example of why the pros don’t skip vintages that are juxtaposed to critically-acclaimed ones. We load up on them!

2003 Boillot, Henri - Batard-Montrachet
Was $184; Now $166
A somewhat subdued yet seductive nose, the wine makes a huge impact on the palate. Dense, with excellent length to the finish. 2003 white burgs are somewhat ‘dismissed’ as being too rich, flabby at least by the average Burgundy customer —but that’s not you!

1990 Certan de May
Was $159; Now $149     
Sweet-herbs are a hallmark for this Pomerol. The 1990 is a deal for a wine kept this long, that’s just entering its peak-drinking years.

2005 Monastero Suore Cistercensi – Coenobium, Latium White $15

An old-world wonder with a blessing from the Cistercian order graces our site in the form of a Latium Bianco. Usually Latium wines are lack-luster with light quaffers from the Frascati D.O.C leading the pack. However, I felt compelled to highlight an amazing white for the price with an intriguing bio. ‘Coenobium’ denotes a community of monks, although it’s a duo of sisters from a Cistercian monastery in Vitorchiano north of Rome that oversees the production of this heavenly white. Consulting and technical assistance came from Giampero Bea, noted Umbrian vintner and son of the famed Paolo Bea in the Montefalco district.

I noted how this wine has been well-received locally in the San Francisco Bay area with some of the finer cafés and Italian themed restaurants serving the 2005 by the glass. This is not a gimmick wine, just good old fashion winemaking with no bells and whistles. A somewhat traditional Latium blend of Verdicchio, Trebbiano and Grechetto, the ‘Coenobium’ is more viscous on the palate than a Frascati (Malvasia-Trebbiano blend) and more depth on the finish than neighboring Orvieto at the mid-value price point of $15.00! It’s my favorite, bankers white for under $20.00 on the Vinfolio site right now. The ‘Coenobium’ or ‘Nun’s Wine’ is the only wine produced on the property. Giampero Bea’s assistance has paid off tremendously encouraging the monastery to move towards 100% organic growing practices. The grapes are fermented in stainless steel tanks, but for added texture, grape skins are left on for an extended soak and the final product is unfined and unfiltered.
 
Presently, the 2005 release is hitting its stride on the palate; all systems are a go, a divine synergy of the parts. The Trebbiano and Verdicchio offer heady, honeysuckle-floral notes, piquant-citrus, herbs and the nerve of tangy citrus fruits. The Grechetto, which is also prized in Umbria’s Orvieto district fills out the back end with viscous weight, streaks of minerals and succulent honeydew melon.  I recommend drinking this balanced and layered white just above cellar temperature. Avoid over chilling to the ‘numb stage’! The Coenobium would pair heavenly with a fall menu of braised endive, fristo misto and whole roasted snapper stuffed with fresh herbs and fennel.

The ‘Sisters’ would probably say: ”Alzare un bicchiere e piacere!” (Raise a glass and enjoy!)

For more suggestions on Italian wines, refer to Laura's review of The Golden Glass tasting event as well as my varietal profile of Montefalco’s Mighty Sagrantino.

One of Burgundy’s best values for elegant, pure, and precise whites is Chardonnay from the village of St. Aubin.  I often think of these wines as the little brother to a Puligny or Chassagne A.C. (village wine), as they are a bit lighter and more graceful, but still have a pronounced goût de terroir (translates as “taste of the earth” specifically referring to the terroir).  

About St. Aubin
A ten minute drive from southwest Meursault lies the village of St. Aubin.  Literally rubbing the shoulders of Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet to the east, the best white wines come from the vineyards located on the steep slopes in the stretch between St. Aubin and the neighboring village of Gamay.  Here the soil is nearly pure limestone and the white wines have a pronounced almond character.  Farther down the slope, below the village of Gamay, the soil is richer, with more marl, creating fruitier white wines with a scent of hazelnut especially from vineyards such as En Remilly (borders the grand cru Le Montrachet) and Murgers des Dents de Chien (roughly, the big dog-toothed rocks) that abut Puligny-Montrachet.

About Domaine Marc Colin
Marc is a fourth generation winemaker who is best known for his Montrachet and Batard-Montrachet.  He is now working closely with talented sons Pierre-Yves, Damian, and Joseph.  Damian and Joseph Colin are in charge of the winemaking where Damian oversees the vinification and Joseph the viticulture. They've ended the use of all weed killers and now plow exclusively. Similarly, they told Allen Meadows that they're also looking for more freshness and vivacity, and to the extent possible, to emphasize minerality in the wines. To accomplish this they now use no enzymes or commercialized yeasts and have stopped all but a small amount of lees stirring. Moreover, they absolutely wanted to avoid any sense of heaviness. They're also dropping the toast levels of the barrels.

I tasted these wines semi-blind (I knew they were both Marc Colin St. Aubins but I didn’t know which vineyard I was tasting).

2005 Marc Colin St. Aubin En Remilly 1er Cru    $33    
Nice breed on first impression, like a junior Puligny.  Excellent purity and very precise.  Lovely white Burgundy character with hazelnut, lemon verbena, quince, and white floral top notes.  Finish shows great tension, minerality, and length.  You can easily see why this wine made Allen Meadow’s best buy list and was rated “Outstanding! Top value.”

2005 Marc Colin St. Aubin Les Murgers des Dents de Chien 1er Cru    $33    
Less definition but more exotic.  This is a riper wine with more stone fruits and melon while showing excellent minerality.  The finish is richer and more blowsy.  For me, I prefer the definition in the En Remilly but I really like the nose on this wine too, especially as it opened up.

In a continued, regular blog-entry I mention ten of my top “Last Call” selections under $50. You don’t have to gamble with “monopoly-money” to take a chance here. All wine purchases are well-spent…if you can get to them before your wine-friends! Selections are less than case quantities.

2005 Two Hands Shiraz Bad Impersonator $49                        
Blackberry galore and very flesh-filled mouth does not give up in the finish. Nice acid and mineral keeps it from bombing-out. On sale too!

 

 

 

2001 Fiorita Lamborghini Campoleone $49       
Yes, great cars…it’s the same folks! Sangio-Merlot offers plenty of spice and currant and bright jam with a classic palate that feels both silky and firm. The descriptors would all be sexy and elusive and “non so.” That’s je ne sais quoi in Italiano!

 

 

2005 Loring Pinot Noir Keefer Ranch $48  
Still coming together, this wine is earth and spice as much as it is fruit—my kind of Pinot when drinking CA. Green Valley is really exciting as an AVA.

 

 

 

2003 Neal Family Cabernet Sauvignon $45  
Originally just growers, I’m so glad they moved into their own wine production a while back. These are deft, clever cabernets. Drinking them is like the difference between talking to a 17-year old and a 60-year old. Details are bright cherry, cacao, dusty earth and lavender.

 

 

2004 Joseph Swan Pinot Noir Trenton Estate Vineyard $45
Once again, my kind of CA Pinot. These wines are long-lived and my personal best-of-show at Pinot Days event here in SF. Herbs, flowers, mineral and purple fruit all in ideal balance.

 

 

 

2004 Sandoval Manchuela $38     
Mostly syrah (yes, it is Spanish!) the deep nose blossoms with violet and blackberry. The chocolate edge keeps a distinguished face to the wine. Using another conversation analogy, this is a discussion with a cloaked person with piercing, light blue or green eyes. Will be fun to drink with some age too.

 

 

2004 Bouissiere Gigondas La Font de Tonin $42
On my list as one of the best Gigondas of 2004, the wine offers a strong showing from start to finish with anise, pepper and gravel accompanying a deep blueberry and sugared-raspberry. Mourvedre battles Grenache for being the top dog here, despite having only a 25% presence.

 

  

 

2004 Robert Mueller Zinfandel Old Vines $35     
A nice blending of classic zin elements and a bowl of fresh-picked orchard fruit. Raspberry, peppery, straw-cherry flavors.

  

2004 Showket Sangiovese $35   
A bit more slurpy than a showing from Italy, the Showket is a maraschino, tobacco-leaf pleasure to drink from nose to finish. This might become my standard-bearer for Cali-Sangio now that Firebreak won’t be made any longer.

 

 

  

2004 Eredi Fuligni Rosso di Montalcino Ginestreto $19
The Ginestreto is another great example of the forthcoming Brunello vintage in Italy. High impact, particularly for food-matching adeptness in an inexpensive package!

I recently hosted a dinner party during which we paired a crisp white Rioja, 2006 Bodegas Ostatu Blanco Rioja Alavesa, with various appetizers including prosciutto wrapped cantaloupe, salumi, and several hard cheeses. Although I often enjoy Rioja’s Tempranillo-based reds, it is a far rarer occurrence for me to try the whites. The Ostatu Blanco, made from 90% Viura and 10% Malvasia grapes, had a very clean, unoaked flavor profile recalling citrus, tangerine and mineral aromas, as well as herbs and salty green apple on the palate. The main grape Viura (also known as Macabeo in the sparkling Spanish wine Cava), is the most widely planted white grape variety in northern Spain which displays a natural aromatic freshness. As was the case with the Ostatu, wines made from Viura are dry, medium in acidity, and display floral and nutty characteristics. The Ostatu grapes came from 60-70 year old vines that grow in chalky, clay soils. We were all pleased with the crisp flavors from the Rioja Blanco which continued to serve as a great pair to grilled shrimp skewers with pineapple and bell pepper. The lush fruit on the palate served as a compliment to the tropical notes on the skewer, with just the right body weight to not be overpowering. What makes this wine even more attractive is its reasonable price at a mere $14 a bottle.

For the main course we enjoyed grilled steak and asparagus with a magnum of 2001 Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou. I had poured the bottle into a magnum-sized Riedel O Series decanter at least an hour beforehand, to allow the wine to breathe. The results were wonderful! We enjoyed the soft cassis and earthy flavors that emerged, which melded seamlessly with the smoky, juicy flavors of our tenderloin. As James Suckling describes, the 2001 Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou has “loads of crushed berries on the nose, with hints of flowers and minerals. Very aromatic. Full-bodied, with fine tannins and a long, cappuccino and berry aftertaste. Really refined.” (Wine Spectator, March, 31, 2004)

The meal concluded with a serving of ripe black cherries and dark chocolate, whose flavors served to highlight even more of the red fruit and silky texture of Bordeaux. If anything, I think the Bordeaux could develop a more subtle bouquet with increased bottle age, but it was still a delight to taste in its early years. In the end, the evening was a success and epicurean treat for all.

The mighty Sagrantino might be the most noble and hearty red skinned Italian varietal you never heard of. Sagrantino, the other “S” varietal, has too long been overshadowed by the commercial success of Sangiovese in neighboring Tuscany.  Its sanctum is in the southern Perugian Hills of Umbria. In 1992, Sagrantino di Montefalco was honored with the highest distinction of quality, the DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) sharing the same guaranteed quality standards of Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino, Barolo and Barbaresco to name a few.

Its origins are somewhat unknown, but many feel it is native to Montefalco and the surrounding area. The name may refer to the "Sacrament" and to when the Franciscans made sweet wine for religious rites. Historically the grape was cultivated into a sweet wine, but now it is the ‘dry’ version that is driving the Montefalco promotional campaign.

Our featured Sagrantino on the site is the 2003 Perticaia (VF$ 45). The success of the Perticaia estate is fueled by visionary, proprietor and winemaker, Guido Guardigli. He knows Sagrantino from his days making wines at Colpetrone and Scacciadiavoli, two noted Montefalco estates. He hired legendary enologist Lorenzo Landi to do initial consulting on his dream project. The property was a working farm that included grain fields and olive groves. Today, the estate has amassed 14 hectares of Sagrantino, Sangiovese, Colorino, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The Sagrantino thrives in the cool, deep, clayey-calcareous soils, which was the impetus for the site. Perticaia Sagrantino is now mentioned in the same terms of quality as Arnaldo Caprai, Paolo Bea, Adanti, Colpetrone and Scacciadiavoli.

Every varietal has a flavor and textural footprint, and with Sagrantino, it’s all about gritty natural tannins and notes of slightly bitter dried cherry. With proper clonal selection and yield maintenance, Sagrantino can be coaxed into a wine with immense mid-palate richness, followed by a super-dry finish that displays finesse and length. More affordable than most Super Tuscans and Brunelli, Sagrantino is an ideal case purchase for mid-term cellaring. I suggest cracking open a bottle for explorational purposes and decanting for a minimum of 60 to 75 minutes before serving.  Grill up some NY Steak or Rib-eye and brace yourself for a gastronomical match made in heaven! Perticaia’s 2003 Sagrantino boasts a sensory overload of bitter cherry similar to Amarone. When properly decanted or aged for at least three to seven years, this effort can roll with some of the Tuscan big dawgs!

All this praise for Sagrantino di Montefalco doesn’t mean you need to scratch your budget on 2004 Tuscans (another blockbuster vintage for Montalcino Maremma & Bolgheri Coast). However, thinking outside of the box and venturing down the unknown wine road can have tremendous benefits. Contact Neil for more unsung heroes on the VF site at neil@vinfolio.com.

 

As girls are known to shop, I decided to compile my own personal wish list from Vinfolio’s wine store. Over the coming years I would like to considerably expand my collection so that it represents a diverse selection of wine regions and vintages. Although I have a tendency towards the Old World, I also favor many wines from Oregon, cool-climate California and New Zealand.  

My favorite wines tend to have high acid (Champagne, Riesling, Chablis, Brunello) and reflect a sense of terroir (Burgundy, Bordeaux). I especially enjoy the influence of chalky soils in Champagne (from oyster fossils in the Kimmeridgian soil), the role of limestone and clay on Merlot in St. Emilion, the mineral notes of slate in Mosel Riesling, and the ripe, rustic quality imparted to Aglianico or Galioppo grapes by volcanic soils in southern Italy. I also love the concentrated flavors of wines whose vines have had to struggle, whether grown on a mountaintop or by restricted yields (perhaps through a green harvest). High altitude climates (Argentina), coastal breezes and ocean currents (the Benguela Current near South Africa, the Humboldt Current off Chile, and the California Current along the Pacific NW) also bring clarity and intensity of flavor. There are so many factors to producing great wine that it makes the discovery process (through tasting, of course) all the more fun!

I think a good cellar should have a mix of every day wines (albeit tasty ones) and special event, collector bottles that benefit from aging. Here is a start to my wish list, beginning in France (to be continued in later posts):

Champagne – The ideal aperitif and palate stimulant, whether white or rose.
Good value, every day favorites:
    NV Lafitte, Charles Brut Rosé $35
    NV Ruinart Brut Rosé (375ml) $35 – one of the original Champagne houses
    NV Jean Vesselle Brut Oeil de Perdrix $38 – with a beautiful salmon color
    NV Egly-Ouriet Brut Tradition $54
    NV Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé $66 – a classic rosé

Luxury bubbles for special events (1990 and 1996 are especially good vintages):
    NV Krug Grande Cuvée $127 – a Champagne staple
    1998 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne $129 – the 1990 is also amazing
    1990 Heidsieck, Charles Brut Blanc des Millénaires $135
    1996 Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill $159 – so classy and brilliant
    NV Bollinger Brut Special Cuvée (1.5L) $225 – creamy and big for parties
    1990 Möet & Chandon Dom Perignon (1.5L) $850 – everyone must have Dom!
    1996 Krug Clos du Mesnil $1,065 – yes, we can dream of the ideal Grand Cru

White Burgundy – Where Chardonnay reveals minerality, clarity, and complexity.
The values:
    2005 Long-Depaquit Chablis Les Vaillons 1er Cru $25
    2005 Daniel et Martine Barraud Pouilly-Fuisse La Verchère $36
    1996 Latour-Giraud Meursault Narvaux $39 - one with some age
    2004 Long-Depaquit Chablis Blanchots $42 – a Grand Cru at an amazing price
    2000 Henri Germain et Fils Meursault Les Charmes 1er Cru $59

The collector items:
    2004 Raveneau Chablis Les Forêts 1er Cru $75 - another classic producer
    2004 Marc Colin Corton-Charlemagne $79 - this made a friend become a Burgundy believer
    2002 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne $94
    2004 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru $133
    2004 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet $196 - gotta love Leflaive
    2004 Comtes Lafon Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru $349
    1998 Ramonet Montrachet $599 – a true life experience
    1996 Michel Niellon Chevalier-Montrachet $950 – ditto
    1989 Ramonet Montrachet $1,899 – we’re at the pinnacle here!

I see that my thoughts stayed with the high acid whites; next time I’ll peruse the reds. Cheers and happy collecting! What’s on your list?

2004 Clos des Brusquières Châteauneuf du Pape, $35

We cracked open a bottle of this lovely Châteauneuf at our staff meeting last week. I was eager to try it as I’ve been a purchaser of Brusquières for several years on and off. One thing I’ve always enjoyed is that they continue to live by the ‘old ways’ and always deliver a more traditional CDP—such as the ones that used to poor freely at so many cafés both in France and elsewhere. Well, the Châteauneuf appellation has out-priced that culture now as far as “house wines” go. And if you’re still receiving the generous glass ‘top-off’ that a patron and his pretty companion occasionally receives (in France only if the waiter is in a particularly good mood), it’s likely a simple Cotes-du-Rhone.

This wine works like other café classics (such as the reds of the Loire), in that it stays light-enough on its feet while delivering great flavor impact. It’s a bright, mid-deep cherry color with just a touch of boysenberry-jam on the nose. The Grenache is classically vibrant straw-cherry-raspberry and the spices are light and easy. There is just enough herb and menthol on the mid-palate to make it slurpable, but serious enough to carry though to a nice clean finish. In the end, the wine brings more cassis, mineral and subtle licorice to the glass. Clos des Brusquières has made a traditional wine in an emblematic vintage that is utterly food-flexible. It is an excellent counterpart to either the grill or lighter fare that you might prefer in the summer heat.

One of the great things about whites like these is that they are extremely versatile. They go with a range or food preparations and are perfect for just casual drinking. Chablis, for example, begs for another sip—kind of like a palate-teaser. But it is these two facets combined, that demonstrate the complete picture of their versatility: they’re great segue wines. Start with them as you would a cocktail, and bring them to the table. This way you can experience your own similar, fanciful musing: they remind me of sitting on the patio after setting the picnic table, cleaning the grill and waiting for the last “clank” of serving spoon against the dinner plate. The smells of the grill and a wine-butter-garlic bouquet is wafting through the summer breeze.  As the sun leisurely lowers itself behind the tree line, everything is just a bit cooler, calmer. Or perhaps that’s just the wine I’m sipping, playing its part.   

2001 Henri Boillot Saint Romain, $36
Slightly toasty, matchstick nose. Elegant, yet silky. Palate shows very nice pear and cooked Macintosh apple, with a dense core. Tasting this wine is a well-priced way to pique your interest towards more of Boillot’s high-end pedigree.

2005 Marc Colin Meursault Les Narvaux, $43
Colin is more known for Chassagne, so here’s a great price on Narvaux, probably the next appellation to be 1er cru. A bit creamier, with lemon accents and other ‘less acidic’ orchard fruit. Good concentration through the vibrant finish.

2005 Long-Depaquit Chablis Les Vaillons 1er Cru, $25
Nicely forward for such young Chablis. That and a heftier mid-palate make it utterly drinkable now. The acid lifts up on the finish with lemongrass and triple-sec. I would suggest that this is a top 10 value at Vinfolio.

2003 Raveneau Chablis Les Forets 1er Cru, $49
A great price having just gone on sale, the wine from this widely-collected producer is still classic Raveneau—a nose that reminds me of a mojito; a mineral frame with a textured, supple middle palate. The warmer vintage gives it a bit more forward nature and more stuffing. It’s all there though, along with a bit of classic-Chablis flint on the finish.

With the passing of Memorial Day, the outdoor barbecue season is in full swing. Spark up the grill and let’s start grilling! Summer outdoor parties demand food friendly wines such as crisp light-bodied whites, savory rosés and hearty, but fruity new-world reds. However, don’t forget one of the most versatile categories, Champagne. As a nation, we tend to think of the precious ‘Méthode Champenoise’ for sacred ceremonies, milestone celebrations and exclusive dinner parties, but there is no better time to experience small production Champagne. The wines from this band of family growers are now coming to the states in record numbers.

Sure you can spring for a "Grande Marque" like Cristal or Dom Perignon, but it can set you back a few bucks. Labels aren’t everything when you’re hosting friends and family for a summer gathering. Our site consistently features older vintages of these luxury cuvées and sometimes in larger formats. However, don’t overlook the savvy deals found in the ‘Single-Grower’ category. In most cases, these estates have been family owned for a few centuries and historically have sold top rated premier and grand cru grapes to the larger luxury houses. Today, many of these houses are featured by the glass at some of the most touted restaurants and cafés in America. More often than not, these unsung wonders retail between $35.00 and $75.00. You’re not paying for a commercial brand here, but what’s in the bottle. In more instances than not, these houses stress an assemblage of highly rated premier and grand cru rated fruit, which is typically estate owned.

Browse through the site and you will find unknown gems like Chartogne-Taillet, Egly-Ouriet, Jean Vesselle, Alain Soutiran and Pierre Gimonnet to name a few. These Champagnes don’t need a special occasion or ceremony to toast with, but just the right food to pair with to make for a memorable palate experience. Below you will find some highlights of the ‘Single-Grower’ portfolio in which the importance of terroir (sense of place) and a whole lot of complexity meet.

1999 Chartogne-Taillet “Cuvée Fiacre” Brut, Merfy        $58.00

Noted Champagne Expert and author, Tom Stevenson raves about the “Cuvée Fiacre” and I tend to agree. A blend of old-vine Chardonnay (60%) & Pinot Noir (40%) that is expressive of jasmine and orange blossom on the nose followed by plenty of mineralized pear and quince. The finish sings with a contrast of dazzling acidity and notes of talc n’ chalk. The 1999 has just started to open up to become a divine accompaniment for some cracked crab or shrimp toast.

NV Egly-Ouriet Brut Tradition, Ambonnay        $54.00

The name ‘Egly’ doesn’t conjure a glorious image, but close you eyes and taste any of their bottlings and you will instantly understand why avid Champagne lovers stock their cellars with Egly Ouriet by the case. Francis Egly is at the top of the small grower elite, with his estate located in the heart of the Côte de Noirs. He specifically owns grand cru vineyards in Bouzy, Verzenay and Ambonnay. The house has claim to some of the finest Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier in the appellation. His non-vintage is 100% grand cru sourced from 35 to 40-year-old vines, typically two thirds Pinot Noir and one third Chardonnay. The Pinot really resonates through the mouth conjuring flavor profiles of raspberries, cranberries, lime zest and roses. Not many non-vintage have this long of a finish. How about pulling out the Pork butt from the smoker for pull pork sandwiches or perhaps a spicy Cuban Pork sandwich?  

NV Jean Vesselle Rosé Saignée Brut, Bouzy         $40.00

Delphine Vesselle has taken over the helm with tremendous success, considering her father, Jean Vesselle passed away in 1996. The 300 year old estate is located in the village of Bouzy, most famous for its Pinot Noir. I personally crave for Vesselle Rosé every chance I get. A wonderful hue and pinpoint bubbles ignites the senses. A noble Champagne indeed, with the body and palate of a red wine. Wildflowers with luscious wild strawberries and cherries will please any Pinot lover. Can we get some wild salmon on the grill? Please!!

2000 Alain Soutiran Brut Millesime, Ambonnay        $39.00

Maison Alain Soutiran is another Ambonnay house that is known for Pinot Noir. One of only 17 houses granted grand cru status. Back in the 1970s, Alain Soutiran pulled the family grapes out of the huge local cooperative to begin fashioning one of the region’s full-bodied Champagnes, showcasing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from 35 to 40 year old vines. His wine is a delicate balance between refinement, power and finesse. The 2000 Grand Cru Brut struts harmonious layers of apple, quince, candied lemon and toasty yeast flavors, all leading to a super bone-dry finish. This effort would work wonders with a firm and meaty grilled white fish like Mahi Mahi or Chilean Sea Bass napped with a spicy fruit salsa or Thai spice rub.

As we’re only a ½ mile from the ballpark that the SF Giants call home I can almost hear the chant "get 'em while they’re hot!" That echoes here in this pitch of 10 wines that are practically a steal. OK, enough baseball analogy, but truly their numbers are dwindling and it’s the last chance to buy them. I’m sure they’ll be a hit. Your friends will comment that you’ve hit a home run with your picks! …I’m done now. We’ll see how it goes but hopefully, this will be a regular blog entry—to call attention to tasty bin-ends.

2005 Taille aux Loups Montlouis Sec Dix Arpents, $17

Very small production Chenin Blanc from the Loire with exotic fruit notes of persimmon and date. Very precise wine has a mineral-laden influence with restraint and elegance throughout the dry finish. 

2005 Gautier Vouvray Cuvee Argilex, $15
 
Buy it along with the Montlouis above for an interesting contrast and example of the most austere representation of Chenin. If it’s already super-hot where you are, or if you’re anticipating any summer picnics at the beach, here’s your wine.

 

2005 Renard Viognier, $24

My favorite at the Rhone Rangers tasting here in SF. I’ve been a Bayard Fox fan for a while—a customer at my previous shop. Doug Wilder likes the wine too: “The Viognier from Sonoma County is new to me and shows admirable qualities. Honeysuckle nose, white peach and velvet smooth citrus and licorice on the palate. The finish is buttery and long lasting with hints of tropical fruits.”

2005 Vacheron Sancerre, $26 or $14 in 375ml

OK, another Loire. Call it a kick that I’m on but we’re talking great, clean wines of excellent value in these parts. Vibrant, green-fruit, and rhubarb bouquet with zest, sugared-grapefruit and mixed citrus comes through on the palate. Well-crafted wine offers a balancing act finish of pepper, limes and lemongrass.

2005 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese Trocken, $22

This is a dry Riesling from my favorite value producer top to bottom in the 2005 vintage. The wine has been showing as well as several Mosels nearly twice the price. Delineation is key here.

 

2005 Donnhoff Oberhauser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett, $27

If Selbach-Oster is my favorite-priced producer, this is my favorite-priced wine in this vintage. It has everything of a wine that would cost $40 plus.

 

2004 Roessler Chardonnay Alder Springs Emerald Pond Block, $38

Subtle nose unfolds to a supple feel despite mineral and herbs. The wine opens to bacon-wrapped melon and a citrus finish. A great crossover from appetizer to main course.

 

2002 Long-Depaquit Chablis Vaudesir, $47

Chablis that is one of the best balancing acts between bracing, focused fruit from one of the richest sides of Chablis. Just a bit spicy, despite its lengthy finish, the Vaudesir will allow you to enjoy even oily foods without being too intense or flinty. This is a Chablis drinker’s Chablis and a Grand Cru value.

 

2005 Conreria d'Scala dei Les Brugueres, $26

Grenache Blanca or Garnacha Blanca from 100+ year old vines. I’ve bought this wine in the last few vintages. It continues to delight with white peach fattening toward a finish of butter-sautéed apples and pears. It’s a conversation piece with intriguing flavors, texture and a light, rose-colored hue.

 

2004 Venica & Venica Ronco delle Cime, $27

Cyrille Hanson says it best, with my stamp of agreement for sure: “One of the greatest indigenous white grapes in Friuli, Tocai Friulano is still somewhat of an unknown to many white wine lovers…This is a single-vineyard production that offers a polished, yet concentrated palate, of golden apple, pear and fig cross-hatched with a brilliant acidity that carries the flavors on a long-distance trip through your mouth. For those who enjoy the occasional exotic mouthful, this will be your new wine mistress.” In less eloquent terms, this is the mistress that can dress for whatever occasion the evening dictates.

Wine has been a major player in my life since I was conceived. My good fortune is due to a set of parental units that cultivated my love for the grape at an early age (thank goodness for the French mom!). Through the years I’ve swirled, sipped, spit and swallowed my way through vats of juice and have come to the conclusion that the more bizarre, esoteric and obscure the grape, the more worthwhile the hunt. Don’t misunderstand, I’m a true fan of the tried-and-true establishment of the wine world – the classics of Burgundy, Bordeaux and California will always be a significant section of my collection, just as many an Italian and Spanish expatriate finds refuge in my cellar. Spend enough time rooting through my Lego-esque towers of boxes and you’ll pop up with Pelaverga & Ruche (Piemonte), Tocai Friulano(Slovenia and Friuli), Bergeron (Savoie), Pinotage (South Africa), etc.

I constantly wonder where this affinity for the lesser known, the ignored, the underdog, stems from. Perhaps I was dropped on my head as a child, or did the catalyst come from being the last one picked for kickball in elementary school? Did Mom drink too much coffee while I was in the womb? Did I eat too much paste in kindergarten (though that may explain my uncanny acumen at detecting traces of wintergreen in a wine at one part per billion). I cherish the task of dragging into the light a wine with the weird name, the obscure grape, the ugly a** label. Whatever the cosmic influences or karmic convergences, I have a knack for discovering and a penchant for ferreting out the unique. Why stick with the same daily drink when there are thousands of other tasty options just clamoring for your attention?

Here are a couple of the current models on my runway of wine oddities. Trust me - take 'em for a test drive and you won’t be disappointed. À la vôtre!

2006 Hamilton Russell Chardonnay (South Africa, Walker Bay):OK, so you don’t think of  Chardonnay as being that esoteric, but add the fact that it is from South Africa and you will clear a wide swath of doubt through some the most devout Chardonnay lovers. For some reason, South African wines still struggle with a mistaken identity of being second string on the global playing field and they are still tainted by the specter of apartheid. This wine rocks! That may be a simple and not-so-profound review, but it says what needs to be stated. What you will find in this bottle is a sublime and ultra-premium example of Chardonnay done right. Just read the Tanzer review (92 points) on our site.

2004 Cantonella Cervoles Tinto (Spain, Costers del Segre): Ah, Espana. Land of jamon, gambas alla plancha, and sexy citizens. Add to that some of the superstars of the wine grape world and you have a recipe for total indulgence. This blend of Tempranillo, Cab, Garnacha and Merlot is an inky pool of forward and full-bodied fruit and smoke that is a rave of Old World restraint and New World gluttony. It’s loaded with dark fruit, licorice and cardamom spice that dives into a mass of black cherries bobbing in a sea of pomegranate and kirsch. Mr. Parker chimes in with his 92 points, too.

- Wine Imp, "Reverent irreverence"

2004 Alvaro Palacios Finca Dofi

Deep ruby color; tightly concentrated nose of bourbon-soaked black cherries and brioche. Nose opens to bring black pepper and lavender. Palate is both silky and chewy on the finish with creamy maraschino and blackberry. Well-masked alcohol a bit higher on the finish but the stuffing is there to compete and keep for a 20 second finish.

This is the “middle-brother” in the Palacios Priorat line-up.  The wine was thoroughly enjoyed and paired against 5 other big Spaniards that night and matched with a nice spread. Manchego/chorizo-stuffed mushrooms, shrimp paella and black olive tapenade were the best harmonies in the case of this lovely wine.  It held its own against the Termanthia!

Pour this in your glass and forget it for an hour.

These are two good value white wines that I tasted at home with a friend. My comments were compiled based on the “WSET Systematic Approach to Wine Tasting” that I described in my previous posting. As mentioned earlier, this is not the only way to evaluate wines and can at times seem a bit rigid since it does not employ the more artistic, or poetic style of writing that we tend to see on restaurant wine lists today.  

To summarize, I think these wines are especially attractive because they are sold at reasonable price points and strongly reflect their sense of place. Both wines have a backbone of acidity and aromatic intensity that keeps the senses attuned.  

2005 Schlossgut Diel Riesling Classic (Germany, Nahe) - $22

Appearance and Nose
The wine is clear with a pale lemon-green core and water-white rim. The nose is clean, demonstrating medium plus intensity, and youthful aromas of citrus fruit such as lime, melon, kiwi, and pineapple.

Palate
The palate is dry with medium + acidity and no tannin. It has low alcohol, a light body, and crisp, steely flavors of lemon/lime, green pear, and grapefruit. The flavor intensity is medium as well as the length on the palate.

My Thoughts and Conclusions
This is a good quality wine because it is has balanced fruit and acidity levels but not a premium wine because it is not overly complex and lacks a long finish. This is meant to be an aperitif style wine that would pair nicely with an avocado salad, sautéed shrimp, or spicy Asian or Indian cuisine. The wine is drinking well now and should be consumed within the next one to two years. Recommended – Laura’s score: 90 points.

2005 Daniel & Martine Barraud Pouilly-Fuisse La Verchere (France, Burgundy) - $36

Appearance and Nose
The wine is clear revealing a medium gold core and long legs (or tears) when swirled in the glass. The nose is clean with medium aroma intensity. This youthful wine exhibits creamy aromas of citrus and green fruits including baked apple, vanilla, and Meyer lemon.

Palate
The palate is dry, displaying medium + acid, medium alcohol, and a medium to full body whose creamy texture coats your mouth.  The intensity of flavor is pronounced exhibiting dairy and autolytic characteristics such as soft cheese, biscuit or toast, hazelnut, and a hint of coconut. These nut and toast flavors suggest the use of oak during the wine’s maturation, probably French oak by its subtlety and integration. There are also flavors of mineral and stone, a characteristic typical of white Burgundy. Although the wine is weighty on the palate, it is vibrant and fresh. This Pouilly-Fuisse has a long length on the palate that demonstrates its complexity of flavors and concentrated ripe fruit.

My Thoughts and Conclusions
I rate the quality to be good to outstanding. The wine has concentrated flavors and a long length. It has rich mineral and almost tropical flavors that evolve in the glass as it warms in temperature. This wine can be consumed now or within the next two to four years because it has the fruit and acidity to undergo modest aging.

I really enjoyed this wine because of its body and creamy texture. It proved a great pairing to my roasted chicken dinner and delighted me as it unveiled more complexity of flavor over the course of an hour.  Highly recommended - Laura’s score: 92 points