Vinfolio Blog

Lovers of Pinot Noir had the golden opportunity to take part in the 4th Annual Pinot Days Festival in San Francisco during the end of June. Winemaker dinners, workshops and seminars were held on the days leading up to the last weekend of June. The Grand Festival Tasting was on Sunday, July 29th at the Ft. Mason Center’s Herbst Pavilion in San Francisco. This is where all the big daddy tastings occur like Family Winemakers of California, Rhone Rangers and the ZAP (Zinfandel Advocate & Producers). Within four short years Pinot Days has soared in popularity, mainly based on the commercial and marketing success of the varietal, but also due to the efforts and marketing genius of the founders. For "Pinot Geeks" and for those who want to learn more about this misunderstood varietal, Pinot Days is a must to mark on the calendar for next year. 

The Grand Festival Tasting is worth the admission to get a snapshot of the category in California, Oregon, New Zealand, Australia, France and Germany. With over 170 producers on hand, it’s not hard to grasp the diversity of this finicky varietal. What’s amazing is that Pinot Days is a non-profit with the commitment to raise money for those in need.

I had the opportunity to attend this year's Grand Tasting and am relieved to report back that I was still walking at the close of the event. Spitting should be mandatory because such a large crowd can get unruly! Large venues like this kind of remind me of sporting events where energy and tipsiness go hand in hand! Like any organized sport, you need a game plan to chart out who you want to see, but leaving room for make new discoveries.

I welcome your comments on your top picks, new darlings, overall impressions and disappointments. Below are my thoughts on the following categories.

Impressed by
- The check-in process for the trade was smooth in comparison to other venues of its size.
- Crowd circulation was relatively smooth with tables that were not too overcrowded.
- An amazing array of winemaker dinners, workshops and seminars were billed!
- A nice array of Pinots was poured in the mid-price range of $30 to $45.

Disappointed by or unimpressed by
- The lack of quality vintners from around the world! This needs to be a focus for next year!
- Samples were great, but the selection of more substantial food choices was limited. 
- There were not many value priced Pinots offered!
- I’m not into smear campaigns, but any new label charging $50 for five leaf, young vine Pinot. It’s not just about a business plan!

Favorite Winery Lineups (The whole range of wines poured was of excellent quality.)
Ancien Wines (Napa/Sonoma), Arcadian (Central Coast), Auteur (Sonoma/Oregon), B. Kosuge (Carneros, Sonoma), Benovia Winery (Russian River), Black Kite (Anderson Valley), Calera (Pinnacles), Copain Wines (Anderson Valley/Sonoma), Dutton Goldfield Winery (Sonoma), Flying Goat (Central Coast), Fort Ross (Sonoma Coast), Freeman (Russian River), Hartford Family (Sonoma), Hirsch (Sonoma Coast), Londer Vineyards (Anderson Valley), Peay Vineyards (Sonoma Coast), Robert Stemmler (Russian River), Scherrer Winery, Talisman Cellars (Sonoma/Carneros), W.H. Smith (Sonoma Coast) and Zepaltas Wines (Sonoma)

Most improved wine from initial release
I tasted the 2005 Donum Estate, Carneros (VF 94, $65) back in the early Spring 2008 and it was clumsy and closed. I re-tasted it at the event, and wow, like night a day with a hedonistic nose and sexy dark red fruit. Yum-yum!

Turnaround winery
Robert Stemmler has been reinvented with the 2006 releases and new ownership under Donum Estate Owner and Viticulturist, Anne Moller-Racke.

Best in Value (Unfortunately there were no $15 darlings, but the options opened up in $30 range.)
- Scherrer Winery Russian River Valley 2006
- Copain Wines - Tous Ensemble, Anderson Valley 2006

Winery to watch out for (Time to make a call to get on mailing list!)
Benovia Winery - The whole lineup. Owners have recently purchased the Cohn Vineyard. Sorry Kosta Browne!

The most Burgundy-terroir influenced lineup
Josh Jensen’s Calera Ryan and Mills bottlings came up in spades. It’s about the limestone baby. Don’t hesitate to age any of the Calera top crus; they will not disappoint after five years or so.

Most Fruit-Forward Lineup
Belle Glos (Central Coast)

My Top Picks
2006 Ancien, ‘Mink Vineyard’, Napa Valley
2007 Auteur, ‘Ophelia’, Oregon and Washington Blend
2006 August West, ‘Rossella’s Vineyard’, Santa Lucia Highlands
2006 Benovia Winery, ‘Cohn Vineyard’, Russian River
2006 B. Kosuge, ‘Manchester Ridge’, Mendocino
2005 Donum Estate, Carneros (VF 95, $42)
2006 Flying Goat, ‘Dierberg Vineyard’, Santa Maria Valley (VF 92, $42)
2006 Freeman, Russian River Valley (VF 93, $42)
2006 Londer, ‘Paraboll’, Anderson Valley
2006 Hartford Family, ‘Fog Dance Vineyards’, Green Valley
2006 Robert Stemmler, ‘Nugent Vineyard’, Russian River Valley
2006 Stephen Test, Russian River Valley
2006 W.H. Smith, ‘Marimar Estate Vineyard’, Green Valley

That’s my snapshot! I look forward to your comments. Keep the Pinot flowing! Cheers!

As the weather changes, so do our tastes for wine and food. With warmer weather, we start enjoying lighter foods and pair them with generally lighter wines. A sunny day begs for crisp, bright, fresh Chablis. Whether steely, flinty, pure and un-oaked or with a touch of wood to round out the palate and add mouthfeel, Chablis is the perfect wine-pairing for oysters, shellfish, and white fish, and also goes well with salads, cheese, chicken, and other white meats.

Cool climate and limestone soils are responsible for the crisp, mineral, laser beam-like focus found in Chablis. Aged Chablis is a revelation for many, as its inherent acidity provides backbone for this Chardonnay to age gracefully. Depending on the vintage, premier crus can drink well in 4-6+ years and grand crus in 6-10+. Here are some quick vintage notes.  Recent Chablis vintages are drinking sooner due to riper vintages (global warming anyone?).

Vintage key points:
2002—terrific vintage and will age well, refreshing acidity and very solid Chablis, classic
2003—hot vintage, so almost California-like, very rich
2004—crisp, classic, and traditional
2005—ripe, high sugar levels and some botrytis makes the wines exotic, more ripe and more flesh than the 2004s
2006—another ripe vintage, lush and opulent. Good acidity and minerality

    

The 7 grand cru vineyards of Chablis face predominantly south or southwest, and are planted on steep (optimal aspect) and well-drained soils on the right bank of the river Serein. Tip: the premier crus Montee de Tonnere and Fourchaume are on the right bank and face south like the grand crus, which is critical for ripening.

Grand cru descriptions:
Blanchot: elegance, finesse, perfume, flowers, not the power and structure of others.
Bourgros or Bouguerots: least known, upfront power and generosity. Cote de Bouguerots is a steep 2ha parcel at the bottom of the vineyard farmed by hand.
Les Clos: the epitome of Chablis, power and finesse, incredible minerality and longevity.
Grenouilles: perfume in youth, minerality, elegance, the lightest of the grand crus.
Preuses: the most forward of the grand crus, approachable, round and fruity, full flavored, less subtle.
Valmur: floral, perfumed, rich and full-bodied, long lived.
Vaudesir: floral, spicy, develops nutty character, can drink in youth or with age.

Look for the top Chablis domaines:  Raveneau, Dauvissat, and William Fevre

Valdeorras is Godello country! What is Godello you may ask? Well, it’s an ancient white varietal that has laid its claim in Valdeorras since the Roman occupation. The region juts north of Portugal and east of Riaxas Baixas, in the Galicia region of N.W. Spain. The Romans were attracted to Valdeorras (Golden Valley) for its precious metals and gold mining, but like other areas they conquered, vineyards followed. This is also evident in Germany, Burgundy and the Northern Rhone. In the Middle Ages, the baton was passed to the Catholic Church, and monks played an instrumental role in fine-tuning the terraced vineyards. Fast forward to the modern era, when the once important Godello was not even mentioned in discussions of benchmark Spanish wines. It was only in the 1990s that certain mavericks, intent on preserving this ancient cultivar, were noticed by boutique American importers and the Spanish wine press.

Rafael Palacios was one of the several talented young winemakers who saw the potential of old-vine Godello from some of the steepest hillsides of Valdeorras. His Godello project launched in 2004, and the accolades keep coming in with the flagship “As Sortes” label. The grape has gained more popularity in the American market due to the effort of U.S. importers like Eric Solomon. Godello has followed in the footsteps of its “kissing cousin” Albarino, the banner grape of Rias Baixas, but not in terms of production. Some Valdeorras blends include both varietals, making for a crisp and aromatic wonder. Albarino is the most recognized white varietal of the region, and probably all of Spain. It’s user-friendly, with great aromatics and a mouthfeel similar to Viognier.  However, where there’s fame, there’s often over production. If Albarino is the poster child of Galicia, then old-vine Godello is a prince about to be king! I crave Godello for its searing minerality, which makes Albarino taste somewhat flabby and overtly fruity by comparison, especially when sipping a value-driven young-vine effort.

Palacios’ “As Sortes” bottling may be the finest Godello imported into the states. The name refers to an old Galician practice of children picking parcels’ names out of a hat during the passing of the inheritance.  I remember my first time tasting this wine in Spain back in 2005, and I still remember the overall package distinctively from the entry to finish. Want to put a sleeper into your next group tasting or seafood fest? Well, the 2006 “As Sortes” will make for a tasty impression. Mouth watering is an understatement! Just take a whiff of this and you will salivate, as the wine beckons you for another sip.  On my last trip to Galacia, my most memorable food and wine pairing experience was sipping on Godello with a simple preparation of pan-roasted razor clams. Sheer bliss … pinch me please!

Many would find spending $35 or more for a Spanish white not worth it, since you can usually find pleasant quaffers for $15 to $20. We’re not talking quaffer here, but more of a palate-changing experience. Consider the 2006 “As Sortes” based on its aromatic depth and mouthfeel. Close your eyes and you might think you’re about to wrap your lips onto a 1er Cru Puligny or Chassagne Montrachet with a hint of Riesling-esque minerality typical of a dry Austrian style. Chalk up some zesty spice and lemon peel with a dose of stone fruit. Yes, there are many superlatives here, but talk is cheap, so pick up a six-pack of this limited production old-vine white. “As Sortes”’ can age better than Albarino, and it gains more complexity with a few years of bottle age. A flavor impression, seafood-pairing champion, this Valdeorras superstar needs your love! The “As Sortes” is a must for anyone who likes classy White Burgundy!

 

 

2006 Rafael Palacios "As Sortes" ($41) IWC 92

I keep a lot of Grüner at home and it is a great food wine or quaffer, depending on the style.  

As you know, Grüner Veltliner is an indigenous white grape from Austria accounting for over one-third of the vines in Austria. Grüner is capable of giving a variety of flavors: spicy, grassy, herby or oily.  Typical descriptors are white pepper, white rhubarb, melon and citrus.  There is definitely a freshness and purity about Grüner, from the diminished use or lack of oak, and you can often find a slight amount of un-dissolved CO2 which adds a slight lift and zip to the wines.  

The grape is perfectly suited to Austria’s cool climate and shows excellent minerality from typically granite soils.  The wines have very good acidity to balance a range of alcohol levels according to the level of ripeness.  

There is a vast amount of ordinary Grüner Veltliner grown in the Weinviertel, a district within Niederösterreich, Austria's single largest winegrowing area. These are typically the most basic Grüners, or quaffers. The best wines for Grüner are being made in the three smaller, adjoining districts along the Danube: the Wachau, Kremstal and Kamptal.

Wachau produces the most powerful and rich examples, while the more restrained and elegant styles come from the Kremstal and Kamptal, as the soil is more sandy loam.  Additionally, the terms Federspiel (meaning “falconry”) and Smaragd (meaning “emerald”) are found on the labels of Grüner Veltliners from the Wachau region only.  Federspiel wines are made from grapes harvested at a minimum of 20 degrees Brix (a measurement of ripeness) and are medium bodied, with between 11.5 percent and 12.5 percent alcohol content.  Smaragd wines, higher in quality, are richer and fuller-bodied than Federspiels because the fruit is picked at riper sugar levels, a minimum of 21.4 degrees Brix. The alcohol levels of Smaragds must be 12.5 percent or higher.

I recommend trying Rudi Pichler’s 2004 Gruner Veltliner Terrassen Smaragd ($31), which earned 92 points from the Intenational Wine Cellar, as well as 90 points from the Wine Advocate. You can also review our entire stock of Grüner Veltliner for more options. 

I have a love affair with Aglianico [ah-LYAH-nee-koh]! Maybe it’s my nonconformist attitude of branching out to uncommon growing regions that deserve the spotlight. Perhaps it’s that I need more variety in my life. For Italian wine enthusiasts, Agliancio might be familiar, but usually mentioned as an afterthought to Sangiovese from Tuscany and Nebbiolo from Piedmont. Well, the 'Aglianco Renaissance' is alive and well, establishing itself as the banner grape varietal of Southern Italy. Campania and Basilicata lay claim to the finest Aglianico with new plantings popping up in neighboring Puglia and even in Sicily. The grape is believed to have originated in Greece, but it was the Phoenicians who were responsible for its arrival, first into Basilicata and then later migrating into Campania. The name is derived from 'Ellenico,' one of the Italian adjectives to indicate of 'Greek' origin.  Aglianico was famous in the ancient world for the production of 'Falernum,' an ancient wine that was highly prized by Roman nobility and the literary community.

The vine was almost wiped out from both phylloxera and a poor economy in the late 19th and early 20th century with only a band of a few family estates willing to tend to the ancient vine.  The house of Mastroberardino based in Avellino is credited for the revival of the varietal in the late 1960s. Back then and even today, the finest Campanian Aglianico is sourced from the village of Taurasi, the only D.O.C.G. village classification in the region. The wines of Taurasi are long lived and have similar ageing qualities to Piedmont’s Nebbiolo found in the esteemed villages of Barolo and Barbaresco. I highly recommend Italian collectors to make room for some Taurasi in their cellars. These wines can age gracefully for 5 to 15 years. I have tasted well-aged Taurasi and it’s memorable for its silky layers of dried dark fruits, leather and tobacco.

Today, Aglianco production has doubled from the late 1970s and some very impressive and approachable versions may be found in the D.O.C.s of Avellino, Irpinia and Taburno with affordable price tags to boot. Genetically, Aglianico has a high tannin and acid component, which makes for a great cellar-worthy wine, comparable to great Nebbiolo. Younger vine versions are made in a softer style emphasizing primary fruit. Beyond its chemical makeup, Aglianco on the palate opens up to primary fruits of blackberries, black cherries, black currants followed by nuances of smoky tar, tobacco, licorice and coffee-espresso notes. Aglianico deserves slow roasted or braised meat dishes. However, a grilled burger or favorite steak preparation can pair marvelously with a younger, fruitier rendition.

Vinfolio is proud to feature three 100% Aglianicos and five Aglianico inspired blends from Campania, geared more for the cellar. The 2001s listed on the site can be enjoyed now, but I do recommend aerating for a solid 90 minutes in a decanter. Leg of Lamb anyone? Below are four of my highest recommendations!

2001 Caggiano - Taurasi Vigna Macchia dei Goti ($39, IWC 94)
Fasten your seat belts for an Aglianico tour de force … vigorous but elegant. Taurasi at an attractive price!

2003 Masseria Felicia  - Falerno del Massico ($62)
The Falerno del Massico D.O.C. is north of Naples, not far from Vesuvius. Old-vine Aglianico (80%) and Piedirosso (20%) are grown on volcanic ash. Maybe one of the most profuse violent blossom noses I've come across of any Italian wine.

2003 Galardi - Terra di Lavoro ($115)
The Galardi estate is based in the high volcanic hills of Sessa Aurunca in northwestern Campania, north of Naples. 80% of the blend is Aglianico rounded out with native Piedirossso and Cabernet Sauvignon. The Gambero Rosso guide honored the 2003 with the highest rating of three glasses. Worth every penny!

2001 Terredora di Paolo – Taurasi ($41, Vinfolio 92)
Campania’s largest producer and vineyard owner made an ethereal Taurasi in 2001. An extremely balanced wine in its youth! The featured offering goes beyond appellation regulations by ageing the wine for 30 months in French barrique and another 18 months in bottle.

I’m in a ‘Mencía’ state of mind when promoting Spain’s Bierzo district on the outer frontier of Castile-Leon in northwestern Spain. Mencía is the native and flagship varietal of the Bierzo D.O.  It is a category that both enthusiast and collector need to consider when purchasing Spanish wines from more familiar and favorite outposts such as Rioja, Priorat and Ribera del Duero. Even though classified as part of the ‘Old Castile Empire’, Bierzo and its black skinned wonder, Mencía, have more in common historically and geographically to Galicia, a region more known for aromatic and light-bodied whites than for hearty reds. Mencía’s history is somewhat unknown based on inconclusive DNA evidence. However, certain experts state that the grape is a genetic cousin of French Cabernet Franc, whose origins stem from importation during the Roman occupation or afterwards with the pilgrimage of French Christians in the 1400s.

Fast forward to the modern day, to what I refer to the ‘Bierzo Renaissance’, when a few wine mavericks saw the potential of Mencía grown on the steep hillsides where old-vines struggle in the iron rich and schist based soil. Noted winemaker Alvaro Palacios’s mission to find the perfect place to make great wine lead him first to the Priorat (L’Ermita & Finca Dofi) in the late 1980s and then to Bierzo in the early 1990s. Alvaro teamed up with his nephew Ricardo Perez (also Bordeaux trained) to realize a project based upon their shared belief in Bierzo’s potential. Working with some of the old timers, Palacios and Perez’s research suggested concentrating their efforts in the small village of Corullón. Traveling through these hillside parcels reveals similar visuals and growing conditions to cru vineyards in Piedmont’s Langhe hills and Burgundy’s Côte d’Or. Their project ‘Descendientes de José Palacios’ makes a statement for grand cru rated Mencía! The remarkable 2001 vintage marked the release of the oldest vine blocks in single-vineyard formats. Seven wines are made in total assembled from vines that average 60 to 100 years old from the highest peaks on the western edge of Corullón. They include: Pétalos del Bierzo- the youngest vines, Corullón- an assemblage of old-vine parcels, and then five extraordinary single-vineyards (San Martin, Fontelas, Moncerbal, Las Lamas and La Faraona). It’s rare to find inventory of some of the vineyard designates for retail sale, but Vinfolio presently has four bottlings on the site from the stellar 2004 vintage. The ‘Corullón’ ($47, WA 91) is a multi parcel blend that is the most accessible, but still needs a few years to mellow out. The lineup is rounded out with three of the five single-vineyard designates including ‘La Faraona’ ($245), ‘Moncerbal’ ($126, IWC 94) and ‘San Martin’ ($84). The vineyard designates are extremely rare with total production levels averaging a mere 150 cases based on vintage yield.

In a nutshell, these bottlings are subtly different, but the overriding taste profile is of old-vine Mencía: a dark crimson to opaque purple hue with a fruit spectrum of pomegranate, cranberry, cassis, blueberries, black raspberry and black cherry on the mid-palate. Nuances of herbs reminiscent of Cabernet Franc on the nose and brooding iron laden minerals are prevalent throughout the palate experience. The varietal’s naturally high tannin composition makes the wine an ideal cellar candidate. 2004 Bierzo is “a must” to expand your Spanish buying strategy. Any fan of the Priorat and Ribera del Duero will get warm and fuzzy over the ‘Descendientes de José Palacios’ lineup based on the passion of its visionaries to coax the most out of these old-vines and the results in the glass have wooed the international wine press and insiders alike. The world-class ‘Wine World’ is getting too small not to consider odd-ball gems like Bierzo’s Mencía. Go ahead and think outside of the box. You will not be disappointed!

The mighty Sagrantino might be the most noble and hearty red skinned Italian varietal you never heard of. Sagrantino, the other “S” varietal, has too long been overshadowed by the commercial success of Sangiovese in neighboring Tuscany.  Its sanctum is in the southern Perugian Hills of Umbria. In 1992, Sagrantino di Montefalco was honored with the highest distinction of quality, the DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) sharing the same guaranteed quality standards of Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino, Barolo and Barbaresco to name a few.

Its origins are somewhat unknown, but many feel it is native to Montefalco and the surrounding area. The name may refer to the ‘Sacrament’ and to when the Franciscans made sweet wine for religious rites. Historically the grape was cultivated into a sweet wine, but now it is the ‘dry’ version that is driving the Montefalco promotional campaign.

Our featured Sagrantino on the site is the 2003 Perticaia (VF$ 45). The success of the Perticaia estate is fueled by visionary, proprietor and winemaker, Guido Guardigli. He knows Sagrantino from his days making wines at Colpetrone and Scacciadiavoli, two noted Montefalco estates. He hired legendary enologist Lorenzo Landi to do initial consulting on his dream project. The property was a working farm that included grain fields and olive groves. Today, the estate has amassed 14 hectares of Sagrantino, Sangiovese, Colorino, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The Sagrantino thrives in the cool, deep, clayey-calcareous soils, which was the impetus for the site. Perticaia Sagrantino is now mentioned in the same terms of quality as Arnaldo Caprai, Paolo Bea, Adanti, Colpetrone and Scacciadiavoli.

Every varietal has a flavor and textural footprint, and with Sagrantino, it’s all about gritty natural tannins and notes of slightly bitter dried cherry. With proper clonal selection and yield maintenance, Sagrantino can be coaxed into a wine with immense mid-palate richness, followed by a super-dry finish that displays finesse and length. More affordable than most Super Tuscans and Brunelli, Sagrantino is an ideal case purchase for mid-term cellaring. I suggest cracking open a bottle for explorational purposes and decanting for a minimum of 60 to 75 minutes before serving.  Grill up some NY Steak or Rib-eye and brace yourself for a gastronomical match made in heaven! Perticaia’s 2003 Sagrantino boasts a sensory overload of bitter cherry similar to Amarone. When properly decanted or aged for at least three to seven years, this effort can roll with some of the Tuscan big dawgs!

All this praise for Sagrantino di Montefalco doesn’t mean you need to scratch your budget on 2004 Tuscans (another blockbuster vintage for Montalcino Maremma & Bolgheri Coast). However, thinking outside of the box and venturing down the unknown wine road can have tremendous benefits. Contact Neil for more unsung heroes on the VF site at neil@vinfolio.com.