Vinfolio Blog

Among the most unique bottlings in the wine market is the Reserva Especial from Vega Sicilia. For several decades, the Bodega has blended two or three different vintages of their Unico - their vintage bottling produced only in the finest years - to create a non-vintage wine in much the same way the Champagne houses create their cuvees. The aim here is consistency between releases.

Vega Sicilia bottles a Reserva Especial in the majority of years, and each particular cuvee produced contains a specific blend of Unico vintages. For example, the NV Reserva Especial released in 1993 contains Unico vintages from 1970 and 1972. Furthermore, the 1997 bottling of the Reserva Especial is a blend of Unico from 1981, 1986 and 1990. There is a lot number on the bottom left of the label that denotes the bottling year, either by stating the vintage outright, or ending with a two-digit year such as “026/97” signifying a 1997 bottling. You’d never notice the code if I didn’t just tell you where it was…..

If you’re familiar with Vega Sicilia, you know these are incredibly age-worthy and collectible wines……so you’re bound to see Reserva Especial traded on the market. Yet retailers refer to it as simply “Reserva Especial,” as if it is a single bottling – like 1982 Latour – which it is not. There can be years of bottle age differentiating two Reservas, and the vintages within the blends can be even further apart. Some are young, some are mature; some bottles have been cellared, some just released. My point? These are different wines and should be treated as such in the market.

We just secured a nice collection of Vega Sicilia Reserva Especial and have exerted the effort to note the release years of each bottling. It will assist the collector in distinguishing between wines that are inherently different and of unique character.

NV Vega Sicilia - Unico Reserva Especial (1990 bottling) $325

NV Vega Sicilia - Unico Reserva Especial (1993 bottling) $325

NV Vega Sicilia - Unico Reserva Especial (1996 bottling) $325

NV Vega Sicilia - Unico Reserva Especial (1997 bottling) $325

Valdeorras is Godello country! What is Godello you may ask? Well, it’s an ancient white varietal that has laid its claim in Valdeorras since the Roman occupation. The region juts north of Portugal and east of Riaxas Baixas, in the Galicia region of N.W. Spain. The Romans were attracted to Valdeorras (Golden Valley) for its precious metals and gold mining, but like other areas they conquered, vineyards followed. This is also evident in Germany, Burgundy and the Northern Rhone. In the Middle Ages, the baton was passed to the Catholic Church, and monks played an instrumental role in fine-tuning the terraced vineyards. Fast forward to the modern era, when the once important Godello was not even mentioned in discussions of benchmark Spanish wines. It was only in the 1990s that certain mavericks, intent on preserving this ancient cultivar, were noticed by boutique American importers and the Spanish wine press.

Rafael Palacios was one of the several talented young winemakers who saw the potential of old-vine Godello from some of the steepest hillsides of Valdeorras. His Godello project launched in 2004, and the accolades keep coming in with the flagship “As Sortes” label. The grape has gained more popularity in the American market due to the effort of U.S. importers like Eric Solomon. Godello has followed in the footsteps of its “kissing cousin” Albarino, the banner grape of Rias Baixas, but not in terms of production. Some Valdeorras blends include both varietals, making for a crisp and aromatic wonder. Albarino is the most recognized white varietal of the region, and probably all of Spain. It’s user-friendly, with great aromatics and a mouthfeel similar to Viognier.  However, where there’s fame, there’s often over production. If Albarino is the poster child of Galicia, then old-vine Godello is a prince about to be king! I crave Godello for its searing minerality, which makes Albarino taste somewhat flabby and overtly fruity by comparison, especially when sipping a value-driven young-vine effort.

Palacios’ “As Sortes” bottling may be the finest Godello imported into the states. The name refers to an old Galician practice of children picking parcels’ names out of a hat during the passing of the inheritance.  I remember my first time tasting this wine in Spain back in 2005, and I still remember the overall package distinctively from the entry to finish. Want to put a sleeper into your next group tasting or seafood fest? Well, the 2006 “As Sortes” will make for a tasty impression. Mouth watering is an understatement! Just take a whiff of this and you will salivate, as the wine beckons you for another sip.  On my last trip to Galacia, my most memorable food and wine pairing experience was sipping on Godello with a simple preparation of pan-roasted razor clams. Sheer bliss … pinch me please!

Many would find spending $35 or more for a Spanish white not worth it, since you can usually find pleasant quaffers for $15 to $20. We’re not talking quaffer here, but more of a palate-changing experience. Consider the 2006 “As Sortes” based on its aromatic depth and mouthfeel. Close your eyes and you might think you’re about to wrap your lips onto a 1er Cru Puligny or Chassagne Montrachet with a hint of Riesling-esque minerality typical of a dry Austrian style. Chalk up some zesty spice and lemon peel with a dose of stone fruit. Yes, there are many superlatives here, but talk is cheap, so pick up a six-pack of this limited production old-vine white. “As Sortes”’ can age better than Albarino, and it gains more complexity with a few years of bottle age. A flavor impression, seafood-pairing champion, this Valdeorras superstar needs your love! The “As Sortes” is a must for anyone who likes classy White Burgundy!

2006 Rafael Palacios "As Sortes" ($41) IWC 92

Gastronomically speaking, it seems anything “Spain” has been on a ten-year upswing in the States. From the success of small plate-tapas bars in urban centers, to the upsurge in the import of wines from previously unknown regions, there’s no way around it, Spain is hot! This has propelled some friends and me to host an annual Spanish Feast over the last few years. A bounty of seafood is always at the top of the menu, paired with Cava and crisp aromatic whites. We usually prep three large Paella pans (seafood, veggie and meat lovers’ paradise), with Garnacha Rosados and savory Tempranillo Jovens waiting in the wings.

Beyond the food, I take great pride in selecting the wines for the theme. There’s an immense array of options that showcase distinct native varietals from bubbly to fortified, and more often than not they are the tastiest values available. Many of the native cultivars should be enjoyed young. They are extremely food-friendly, showcasing fresh, forward fruit, backed with cleansing acidity.

At Vinfolio we try to promote some of these darlings throughout the year and our clients appreciate that we have these wines available by the case for their entertaining needs. We presently have two wines on the site that scream “Spanish Party Wine”!   

Albariño is fast becoming what New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc or Viognier were in the early 1990s. Back then, there weren’t more than three or four Albarinos imported into the country. Today, the number has increased 500% if you include regions neighboring the famed Rias Baixas appellation in Galicia. Like Viognier, Albariño is aromatic, with a distinct stone fruit element rising off the nose. In most cases, the banner fruit scheme is peach backed with vibrant acidity and a twinge of minerality that will remind a wine enthusiast of German Riesling. The majority of the Albariño imported is un-oaked and tank-fermented to preserve the flowery aromatics and freshness.

2006 Nessa Albariño ($12) has won us over with its textbook notes of white flowers, zingy ginger-lemon zest backed with a light pear note. “Nessa” is made with the American market in mind. The parent winery is Adegas Gran Vinum, which has only been in business since 2002, but with the success of the past two vintages, this outfit is on the fast track to success. The winery is based in the Salnes Valley, where the grape thrives in the well-drained granite-based soils. Pair with citrus-glazed scallops, or any grilled seafood such as shrimp, spiny-tail lobster, or octopus.  

Mencia has become a favorite of the sommelier community here in the States. Testing has tied the grape genetically to Cabernet Franc, however, locals in the village of Bierzo and Ribeira Sacra would argue otherwise, stressing its uniqueness to the most inland portions of Galicia and the northeastern tip of Castile-León. The Bierzo district has more associated with Galicia than it does with the Castilian Empire, and the palate virtues of the Mencia varietal are putting this ancient viticulture pocket back on the map. It’s the only recommended red-skinned grape of the region. When tasting, the Cabernet Franc comparison is evident, with streaks of herbs and mint.

2006 Descendientes de Jose Palacios ‘Petalos’ Mencia ($20) has just been released on the site and it’s similar in quality to the 2005 rendition, which had great success. The schist-based mineral component really shines in this youthful, but approachable wine. Notes of black cherry and black raspberry hit the palate with pleasing results. The back end reveals more mineral notes intertwined with cigar ash and oil-cured black olives. It’s important to let this wine breath in glass or decanter for a good hour, but patience is rewarded! Close your eyes and you might think you’re drinking a wine triple the price. The Descendientes de Jose Palacios project is dedicated to this grape, sourcing old-vine material throughout the village of Corullon in Bierzo. There are other single vineyard offerings on the site that are more oak-driven and need time, but the 2006 Petalos is fresh, having spent only about 8 months in older oak. The vines used in this cuvée range from 40 to 90 years old. The Petalos cries out for lamb of any kind, but I like spicy dry rub lamb sirloin on the grill. When planning your Spanish Feast, perhaps try a slow-roasted leg of suckling pig! 

Our most recent wine journey take us to one of the most noted wine growing regions in Catalonia, the Montsant D.O. (denominación de origen) located in the hinterland of Tarragona. Before 2001, the D.O. was referred to as Tarragona-Falset and today there are over 40 wineries that reside in this spectacularly hilly country interlaced with grape vine, almonds, olive groves and pine trees. Montsant forms a horseshoe around its more famous neighbor the Priorat. A similar grape mix is found here dominated by Cariñena (Carignan) and Garnacha (Grenache). The major geological difference between the Montsant and Priorat lies in the soil structure. Montsant has more silica, iron and clay, whereas Priorat is dominated by pure slate and schist. Furthermore, Montsant sits at a lower elevation than the Priorat with less rugged and terraced vineyards allowing for easier development of vineyards. Though Priorat is garnering a lot of press and may arguably produce the finest wines in all of España, certain Montsant producers are poised to take on some of the spotlight at more affordable prices.

Cellars Can Blau is a case in point. Started in 2003 as a partnership project between Spanish import giant Jorge Ordoñez and Ángel Gil of Juan Gil winery in Jumilla, Can Blau takes on a New-World approach with the hiring of Australian winemaker Sarah Morris. Ordoñez and Gil’s ‘Oro Wine’ project has worked the Aussie angle before hiring Chris Ringland with the Alto Moncayo project in Campo de Borjo and El Nido in Jumilla. Based on initial  reviews (IWC 92/ WA 92), The Can Blau label is heading to top of the record charts in the same fashion as Alto Moncayo and El Nido labels. Take top quality native old-vines, picked at low yields tempered with state-of-the-art modern equipment, and you have hedonism in a glass.

I was extremely stoked to see the release of the 2004 Mas De Can Blau Tinto ($39) on the Vinfolio site (www.vinfolio.com). It’s the older vine rendition of two wines from this house which I had to the opportunity to sample when Jorge Ordoñez came through the Bay Area about a year ago. I still can remember the night I tried the wine and was floored by the sexiness and opulence that is not usually associated with the Montsant. A blend of 35% Cariñena, 35% Syrah and 30% Garnacha makes for a compelling argument that the best examples of ‘Rhone’ blends are being made in Catalonia. Fact: ‘Greater Catalonia’ stretched all the way into the Languedoc and Southern Rhone into the late 1300s. Fans of Aussie “Sheeeraz” and California Central Coast Syrah should add this wine to their must have list. Its full throttled black fruit explosion doesn’t mean that there isn’t any Old-World sauvage character in the glass. This effort still has all the great herbs and mineral accents that you expect from this region, but brace yourself for deep saturation and extraction. This is not your grandfather’s old-school Rioja! Mas De Can Blau is definitely more (mas) with a core of kirsch and blackberry compote laced with cola and tar notes. The twenty months of French oak ageing is apparent but in check with tannin and acid. This wine can age for a good five years, but all too tempting to enjoy now with a solid 90 minutes of decanting time. This wine deserves carnage like meat on the grill. Perhaps a spicy dry rub Rib-Eye with garlic mashed potatoes and braised collard greens.