As many of you know, the 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape campaign is in full swing. Robert Parker has written, “2007 is the greatest vintage I have tasted in my thirty years working in that region. Nearly every producer has attained largely unprecedented levels of quality. Moreover, the vintage is remarkably consistent from top to bottom…It is the vintage of my lifetime for this region, and I don’t say that lightly.”

As expected, there is tremendous demand for the “wines of the vintage” down to the “sleeper” values. You can sign up for Vinfolio Wine Alerts (either daily or weekly email notifications) to automatically be notified via email of new additions. You can also email wineoffers@vinfolio.com to be signed up specifically for a 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape wine alert (and other alerts) or just reply to your Wine Specialist.

James Molesworth of the Wine Spectator is currently in the Rhone tasting the 2007 Chateauneufs and has an excellent blog on his Domaine visits and tastings.  

 

I’ll admit I’ve come rather late to the Italy party.  But after tasting some fermenting California Nebbiolo (one word, wow!), it was time to go to the source for an education. What I bought first was definitely on score and review; Vinfolio had plenty in stock and on sale. I bought the HALF PRICE! 2003 Saffirio Barolo Persiera because of the gnome on the label, it’s true. But I had had the Barbera a few weeks prior and it was great for the price. The Barolo should have been decanted; it showed prettier aromatics the next morning. Lesson learned.
The second was my very first Giacosa, a 1998 Barbaresco Gallina. No, it doesn’t have a score or review from Advocate or Spectator, but at 10 years of age, this wine is beautiful. At one point it was dead on macaroon…and I hear it was rife with tar and roses the next day. There are only 5 in stock and at a full $100 less than the Santo Stefano, a fantastic value.  

     

Some days it’s difficult to see the forest through the trees. Such seems to be the current state of affairs with California Cabernet. Visualize it as such – first, you have the majestic Redwoods, Sequoias (yes, I know they grow in different areas, but work with me here) and Sugar pines (tallest pine in California, by the way.) These I liken to the cult wines of California, those which are exceptional and excellent in their own right. However, they tend to overshadow the saplings of the wine world; those healthy, stalwart and indigenous workhorses that strive to gain your attention and show you that it’s not only a score and a sexy outfit that define quality and deliciousness.

For an idea of what you should be paying attention to, I’ve put together a list of wines that may not have wowed the usual suspects (the Anointed 3 of critics), but then again, when are they always at 100%? As we all know, it’s a specific and static place in time the way a score is given – who knows, that day a critic may have not been on top of his game, had it in for a particular wine, fought with his/her significant other or just had a bad palate day.

Here is what I think those that truly love/loved great classic cab/proprietary blends (the way we remember the Montelena, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, pre-1987 BV Reserve, etc.) are going to enjoy. They may not have made the grade in certain journals, but I’ve tasted them multiple times and truly believe they will please you immensely. And I’ve thrown in one Bordeaux that, if you do not buy, you will kick yourself from here throughout eternity…Enjoy my saplings!

Wing Canyon 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon (VF 94)
Erba 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon (VF 93)
Source 2004 Heritage Sites Red (VF 92-94)
Source 2004 Paramount Red (VF 94)
Almus 7 2003 – Cuvee Kemiji & Portray (VF 96)
Pagodes de Cos 2003 (VF 91)

 

Back in early July, I decided to visit Oregon’s Willamette Valley, the epicenter of Pinot Noir for the Pacific Northwest. I’ve been through Oregon’s wine country several times, but an extensive tasting tour was long overdue since my last visit, when I attended Oregon Pinot Camp. That experience really opened my eyes to how effective Willamette Valley vintners were in sharing knowledge with the common goal of making great wines. I visited a total of 22 wineries in 4 days, and I have to say that I was quite impressed with quality across the price spectrum from the difficult and hot 2006 vintage, to the cooler 2007 that were tasted out of barrel.

During the course of my tasting appointments with owners and winemakers, it was hard not to draw comparisons to California Pinot. For Pinot Noir purists, one must raise the question: Which American region comes out on top for overall quality, Willamette Valley or California? This is a loaded question, but I welcome your thoughts and comments. No disrespect to the California Pinot producers that I have supported over the years, but as a community, Willamette Valley Pinot producers are setting a national precedent for Pinot enthusiasts and producers.

The evidence is in the glass!

Why put Willamette Valley Pinot Noir on a pedestal?

•    The 45th parallel cuts through the Willamette Valley just north of Salem. The Willamette has more daylight hours during the key periods of late March to late September allowing for extra-long days in the summer months in comparison to the Northern and Central Coast of California. Longer daylight hours, combined with cooler conditions lead to a long period of flavor development by the time of harvest.

•    Unique Site Location. The Willamette Valley has a complex series of soils not seen throughout other parts of the West. Oregon was created by the collision of the Pacific Plate with the North American Plate almost 200 million years ago. http://www.oregonwine.org/Explore_Wine_Regions/Willamette_Valley/Willamette_Valley/

•    Over twenty years ago, two international tasting events recognized the quality of Oregon Pinot Noir. In Paris, in 1979, Gault-Millau sponsored an Olympiad of wine. Eyrie’s 1975 South Block Reserve, scored in the top ten. In 1985, the N.Y. International Wine Center held a “Burgundy Challenge” to compare the same number of Oregon Pinot Noir to Burgundy. The experts couldn’t distinguish Oregon’s efforts from Burgundy, and the top five scoring wines were from Oregon.

•    In 1983, Oregon growers and producers elected to tax themselves at the highest rate in world. These funds have been instrumental to conduct viticultural research and effective marketing programs that continues today.

•    French Dijon clones favored for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir production first arrived in the West via Oregon State University, initiating the first studies with these cool climate clones.

•    Oregon has lead the way for inviting Pinot Noir producers from around the world to Oregon to candidly share observations, discoveries, philosophies and vineyard practices.

     o    The Annual Summer Steamboat Conference in Southern Oregon
     o    International Pinot Noir Celebration in McMinnville, considered the world’s first wine forum.

•    Oregon has been in the forefront of the Biodynamic movement.
     o    Oregon was the first American region to be certified by the International Office of Biological  Control (IOBC). Certification endorses LIVE, a non-profit Oregon corporation, with the authority to certify Oregon vineyards.

Some of the most affordable Syrah of excellent quality in the world comes from the finest producers of red Crozes-Hermitage in the Northern Rhone.  Yes, there are lesser Crozes but I am talking the likes of Graillot, Delas-Freres, Belle, Chapoutier, Jaboulet, and Colombier to name a few.  I pulled corks on two wines to show some friends “why” this past weekend and raised more than a few eyebrows. I watched the rest of these bottles walk out the door with a smiling request to work on more Rhone for them (I never seem to do as well on these “trades”).  Crozes-Hermitage sits on the eastern bank of the Rhone enveloping Hermitage.  As expected, Crozes is much the little brother to Hermitage but shows the classic medium to full body of Syrah with smoky, peppery, cassis, black cherry, plums, and the signature aroma of herbes de Provence.  Pair Crozes with fuller bodied meat dishes so that the wine doesn’t overpower your meal.  

2003 Delas Freres Crozes-Hermitage le Clos    $29
Opaque color, more fruit driven with gobs of black cherries, plum, earth, lavender and rosemary. Very good concentration and mid-palate with moderate structure.

2005 Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage     $27
Opaque color, classic Graillot; this wine is bulletproof.  I double decanted (into the decanter and back into the bottle) the day before.  This is a very complete and powerful wine and it’s just a baby.  Smoke, leather, minerals, scrub, spice, jerky, and cassis. Very compact on the palate.  Needs time.

Click here for a link to Vinfolio's current selection of Crozes-Hermitage

It's amazing how certain wines continue to resonate many months after tasting them.  People, like wine, also leave an indelible mark on memory, and when an experience includes both memorable people and wine, it is all the more unforgettable. Such was the case when I visited Chiara Boschis, owner and winemaker of the Azienda Agricola E. PIRA & Figli estate in Piedmont, and tasted her 2003 and 2004 Barolo Cannubi.

Last October Chiara was kind enough to spend the day with me at the Borgogno and E. Pira estate.  I remember the excitement and passion in her voice as she spoke about her family's history, her personal story and approach to winemaking. Her fervor is clearly reflected in the quality of her 2003 and 2004 Barolo Cannubi wines. Bypassing traditional winemaking with which the Borgogno name is synonymous, Chiara is part of a group of young winemakers responsible for making Barolo internationally popular by employing modern winemaking, technology, and marketing. This group of modernists is often referred to as the "Barolo Boys." As Chiara is the only female participant, she is known as the "Barolo Girl."

Although recently there has been an increase in the number of female winemakers in Barolo, Chiara is still the "Barolo Girl" who single-handedly operates the E. Pira estate.  She oversees everything from vineyard management, winemaking, and bottling, to marketing. As glamorous as that may sound, being the owner/winemaker of your own estate, and the daughter of the Boschis family, is hard work. It requires dedication and sacrifice; there is little time for vacation during the growing season because every day is important. Chiara is there every moment, watching the vineyard out of her bedroom window, with barriques filling an area most would consider her living room. A petite woman, perhaps 5'4" at most, it is hard to picture her getting dirty and lugging barrels around, but she does it...happily, seriously, and with a great sense of humor, too. She jokingly referred to her climate-control system in her barrel ageing room as Obi-Wan "Cannubi." The device looked more like R2-D2, but still, the reference was funny.

If you meet Chiara Boschis in person, you will find that she not only funny, but also confident, charming, and ambitious. She is an amazing person who, like her wines, will leave a lasting impression. I highly recommend picking up any of Chiara's selections: Barolo Cannubi, Barolo Via Nuova, Barbera d'Alba, or Dolcetto d'Alba. You will not be disappointed. Featured below are two vintages of E. Pira Barolo Cannubi, of which annual production stands at a mere 650 cases.

The 2003 Barolo Cannubi E. Pira is an extraordinary wine for such a warm vintage. It is structured with a floral nose, has ripe, cherry and plum fruit complimented by sweet spice nuances, and firm tannins not found in many 2003s. This wine is quite accessible now, but will benefit from additional bottle ageing.

The 2004 Barolo Cannubi E. Pira, like the 2003, is superb. It has everything you would want in a great bottle of Barolo: musky aromas, rich layered fruit, and notes of mint and eucalyptus, among other spices. For the boldness and depth of this wine, it is balanced, elegant and filled with subtle nuances that reflect the terroir of the Cannubi vineyard.  The finish is long-lasting and suggests that the wine will surely improve with several years' ageing.

2003 Pira, Enrico e Figli - Barolo Cannubi (WA 90, WS 90,  IWC 87) $59.95        
 
2004 Pira, Enrico e Figli - Barolo Cannubi  (WA 95, IWC 87) $83 / 750 ml or $197 / 1.5L

Big news in the New Zealand wine world: Robert Parker, sailing blithely along on his usual route between Bordeaux and California this year, got blown off course and bumped into New Zealand!  Mr. Parker peered through his binoculars at this unexpected obstacle.  "Lo and behold, they make wine here!" he said to his crew, which included British wine writer and music freak, Neal Martin.  "Neal, go ashore and find out how many points it has!"  Neal, an obliging young man, disembarked, and spent two whole weeks exploring this new wine country in the company of the friendly natives, who plied him with many, many of their wines and watched his reactions anxiously, hoping he would give them many, many points.  Mr. Martin took copious notes, and is gradually posting them on www.erobertparker.com as he recovers from the rigors of exploration.  His introduction, entitled "New Zealand: More Than a 'Savalanche'", and the first of his tasting notes, are available for subscribers to Robert Parker.

On the whole, Mr. Martin did a very credible job covering a great deal of territory in so short a time.  His approach was critical in the best sense of that word – applying careful, unbiased judgment – and he assessed the wines within their context - that of a cool climate.  His visit was sponsored by New Zealand Winegrowers, who also do a very creditable job marketing New Zealand wine to the world.  Of course there are notable absences in his notes, names that are beloved and world famous within New Zealand, but his visit marks a starting point for us in the world of Parker, and for that we are grateful.

I will declare at this point that I am a New Zealander, so I am allowed to make generalizations that no one else can, at least not within my hearing.  New Zealanders suffer from sporadic bouts of "Small Country Syndrome."  Symptoms range from a sudden need for approval from others, to dismissal of the entire world beyond our borders.  It is not uncommon to hear it said in New Zealand that "We make the best Sauvignon Blanc in the world."  Much as I love New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, this is simply not true.  If Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough holds its own alongside Sauvignon Blancs from Sancerre, Pouilly Fumé, Styria, and the Alto Adige, I am happy and proud.  I believe it does.  I also believe that our Chardonnays are an undiscovered treasure, at least undiscovered by America until Mr. Martin’s visit.  NZ Pinot Noirs offer a fascinating, fast-forward insight into how a region and a grape learn to bring the best out in each other.  I highly recommend Vinfolio’s small, well-chosen selection of NZ wines, particularly the 2006 Ata Rangi Pinot Noir (91 points from Mr. Martin and 15 years of love from me for this winery, $47); and the two Chardonnays: the 2004 Kumeu River Chardonnay Mate's Vineyard (VF 92; WS 93; and 1 order from me – "Drink anything made by Michael Brajkovich, M.W.", $37) and the 2005 Pegasus Bay Chardonnay Waipara Valley (93 from Mr. Martin and at least 6 visits by me to this winery over the years, each time a pleasure, $26).

I’d really like to hear what you think as you discover these wines for yourself.

Last weekend the weather was great in Napa Valley. Inspired, I took the opportunity for leisurely bike ride during the extreme heat of the day, which was probably not the best idea, since temperatures were in the upper 90s. I thought to myself, “the grapes must be loving this heat,” and all the while I was trying to find a big shade tree to escape it. Peddling through the Valley, I was reminded that with all its incredible appellations and micro-climates, my favorites remain those in the mountains.
Mountain-grown fruit makes the best wines, period. I have a love and appreciation for all of them; their rich, berry-driven and age-worthy fruit commands the palate. The different mountain regions produce different wine styles, but I really can’t pick a favorite. From Howell Mountain (east of St. Helena), Mount Veeder District (west of Oakville), Spring Mountain District (west of St. Helena) and Diamond Mountain (west of Calistoga), they all are climate gems that produce memorable wines.
Getting back to my bike ride, with a welcoming breeze I was cruising through the Napa neighborhood streets, when I remembered that I needed to pick up my 6 bottles of the 2006 Robert Craig Howell Mountain Zinfandel which I had purchased back in late 2007 on pre-release. My lips were smacking in anticipation of having it that evening. The winery and vineyards are located on Howell Mountain, on the east side of the Napa Valley.
Robert Craig has all the ingredients for success: beautiful vineyards, mountain-grown fruit and a rising star winemaking team. The same can be said for many of the region's wineries, which showcase the great diversity of the Napa appellation.

If you haven’t already done so, bring Howell Mountain wines into your wine world. You won’t be disappointed with this beautiful mountain-grown fruit.

Browse Vinfolio's extensive inventory of wines from the Howell Mountain region here.

Some of my favorites from the region include:

1997 Dunn Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain 1.5L ($225)

1999 La Jota - Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain ($120)

2003 Cornerstone - Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain ($85) 

Southern Italy is taking center stage as a destination hot spot; overlooking the alluring waters of the Mediterranean, its rustic foods and great wine are inspiring enthusiasts to explore a previously unfamiliar region. While many can claim a knowledge of, or affinity for, great Nebbiolo from the Langhe or the Sangiovese-based wines of Tuscany, how many can claim familiarity with old-vine Aglianico from Campania or Nerello Mascalese from Mt. Etna?

Campania, Basilicata, Calabria, Puglia, Sicily and Sardegna are the geographic reference points for the vines of Southern Italy. Although international varietals like Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah and Chardonnay have taken a foothold in these regions, native varietals reign supreme for many resurrected estates. As a result, almost extinct varietals are slowly making a comeback through aggressive propagation programs and the preservation of these native varietals is a common theme through the South.  

A new generation of winemakers and growers is investing in this once deprived area, where modern winemaking advances have been applied over the last twenty years. Before the late 1980s, it was common for the “older generation” to sell grapes in bulk to a local cooperative, but today, quality is stressed over quantity, with the common goal to coax the most out of the old-vine material and bottle the efforts under estate labels. Bulk production has been replaced by reduced yields and high quality.

From an American point of view, there has been no better time to sample the amazing array of products coming out of this area. Importers are putting forth a great effort to make sure the wonders of Southern Italy reach the States. The wide spectrum includes everything from the everyday value drinker to age-worthy old-vine reserve wines, often at a third of the cost of their Tuscan or Piedmont equivalents. Below you’ll find a breakdown of the regions and their top varietals, as well as four recommendations for exploring the best of Southern Italy.                  

Regions and Varietals

Campania (Capital- Naples)- Provinces: Avellino, Benevento, Caserta, Napoli & Salerno
Whites- Falanghina, Fiano & Greco
Reds- Aglianico & Piedirosso   

Apulia (Puglia) (Capital- Bari)- Provinces: Bari, Brindisi, Goggia, Lecce & Taranto
Whites- Malvasia, Moscato & Bombino Bianco
Reds- Primitivo, Negoamaro & Uva di Troia

Basilicata (Capital- Potenza)- Provinces: Matera & Potenza
Whites- Fiano, Malvasia & Bombino Bianco
Reds- Aglianico, Bombino Nero, Aleatico, & Malvasia Nera

Calabria (Capital- Catanzaro)- Provinces: Catanzaro, Cosenza, Reggio di Calabria
Whites- Greco Bianco
Reds- Gaglioppo & Greco Nero

Sardegna (Capital- Cagliari)- Provinces: Cagliari, Nuoro, Oristano & Sassari
Whites- Vermentino & Moscato
Reds- Monica, Carignano & Cannonau

Sicily (Capital- Palermo)- Provinces: Agrigento, Caltanissetta, Catania & Enna
Whites- Grillo, Grecanico, Carricante, Catarratto, Inzolia,  Zibibbo & Malvasia
Reds- Nero d’Avola, Frappato, Nerello Mascalese & Nerello Cappuccio

Recommended Wines

2005 Fucci, Elena - Aglianico del Vulture Titolo, Basilicata ($49) VF 94
The Titolo is 100% Aglianico grown on high-altitiude vineyards in the Vulture district of Basilicata. The vines struggle to survive in the pure volcanic lava soil, allowing for concentrated flavors in the bottle. The 2005 is aged 12 months in barrique and another six months in the bottle before release.

2005 Passopisciaro, Mt. Etna, Sicily ($32) WA 93
100% Nerello Mascalese, which was picked way into November, provides tremendous aromatics that harmonize with the layers of dried dark fruit. The wine is made by Andrea Frnchetti, who made his name with the Tenuta di Trinoro, a heralded estate in Tuscany.

1999 Contrade di Taurasi (Cantina Lonardo) - Taurasi Riserva, Campania ($65) VF 93
The benchmark for Aglianico in Campania hands-down is from the Taurasi zone.One of the most long-lived wines of Southern Italy! Taurasi merits the same attention as a collectable and ages as well as Barolo. The wine spends about three weeks on the skins and is aged for 18-24 months in large wood puncheons to emphasize the fruit and spice. Here’s a wine you can decant for a few hours and enjoy now or lay down for another 10-12 years.

2006 Donnafugata - Passito di Pantelleria Ben Rye, Sicily ($37 375ml) WA 90
The Ben Rye passito is a pure hedonistic wonder! 100% Zibibbo (Moscato d’Alessandria), grown on the volcanic island of Pantelleria off the southern coast of Sicily. The new release was honored with Gambero Rosso’s Tre Bicchieri of distinction. Arabs brought the grape over from the North African coast a few hundred years ago and only a few estates produce this unique passito. The vines are bush head-trained to withstand the high powered winds that whip across the island.

I am not afraid to say some of my favorite wines are rosé Champagnes! Historically, these wines first gained popularity in the early nineteenth century with the British and Russians. However, it was not until the 1980s that prestige rosé Champagne was produced in any quantity. Rosé Champagnes (Champagne rosé) are often more prized and costly than their golden counterparts. The higher price is due largely to the scarcity of it on the market and the difficulty to produce it. Rosés represent just 3-5% of all Champagne exports.

Part of the intrigue for me is the color, as the spectrum ranges from pale pink to deep coppery salmon. When young, rosés can have a reddish-blue tinge and turn almost orange to amber with 10-20 years of age. When I taste, I become absorbed by the variety of flavors and the subtlety of secondary notes that appear in my glass. Rosés are assumed to be sweet and fruity, but the majority are dry with delicate notes of spice (cinnamon, clove, ginger, pepper), berry (strawberry, raspberry), fruit (apple, pear, plum, orange, nectarine, apricot, peach), flowers (blossoms, elderflower, rose) nuts (walnut, hazelnut, almond), autolysis (toast, yeast), minerals (stony/steely, petrol) and ripeness (carmel, honey). 

Champagne Blends
Champagne is typically produced from three main grape varietals: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. Most Champagnes are blends of all three grapes, although Blanc de Blancs indicates the use of 100% Chardonnay and Blanc de Noirs indicates the use of 100% red grapes (Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier or a blend of the two). The Blanc de Noirs (white from red) Champagnes are considered "white" despite their slightly pink-tinged color. True rosés always include at least some portion of red grapes (traditionally 8-20% Bouzy Rouge still wine) and in some cases are 100% Pinot Noir. Depending on the varietal blend, rosés are often more rich and full than their white counterparts. The pink color comes from the Pinot Noir skins since the juice itself is colorless.

Two production methods for rosés
1) Historical method (known as maceration or saignée method) – After crush, the base wine sits in contact with Pinot Noir skins to pick up color. With skin contact the wine may show more raspberry and strawberry aromas.
2) Most common and modern method – Still Pinot Noir wine is added into each Champagne bottle before the second fermentation (part of the liqueur de tirage). It may take longer for the wine to fully integrate because of the mix.

My all-time favorite rosé Champagnes and international rosé sparklers
Some of my favorites include NV Krug Rosé (used to toast at my wedding with my husband and bridesmaids), NV Gosset Grand Rosé, 1993 Pol Roger Rosé, 1997 Nicolas Feuillatte Palmes d’Or Rosé (had subtle notes of orange and spice), NV Ruinart Rosé, 1997 Laurent-Perrier Brut Rose Grand Siecle Cuvée Alexandria (made for their daughter’s wedding; I thought it was an excellent pair with lobster salad). As I am a big fan of Taittinger’s Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs, I am eager to sample their vintage rosé selections (see Vinfolio wine list below).

Outside of Champagne, I have also found good value sparkling rosés including: NV Ferrari Rosé (Trentino-Alto, Italy), NV Janz Rosé (Tasmania), NV Louis Bouillot Crémant de Bourgogne Rosé ''Perle d'Aurore'' (Burgundy), NV Allimant Laugner Crémant d'Alsace Rosé (Alsace), and NV Roederer Estate Rosé (Anderson Valley, California).

A selection of Vinfolio’s current offerings:
NV Lafitte, Charles - Brut Rosé ($35)
2002 Lenoble, AR - Vintage Brut Rosé ($40)
NV Ayala - Brut Rosé ($45)
NV Billecart-Salmon - Brut Rosé ($74)
NV Egly-Ouriet - Brut Rosé ($74)
1985 Veuve Clicquot - Rare Vintage Rosé ($96)
1988 Heidsieck & Co Monopole - Vintage Diamant Rosé ($100)
2000 Taittinger - Comtes de Champagne Rosé ($178)
1990 Veuve Clicquot - La Grande Dame Rosé (1.5L / $525)
1995 Roederer, Louis - Cristal Rosé ($659)
1995 Moet & Chandon - Dom Perignon Rosé (1.5L / $887)

Click here to see Vinfolio’s entire range of rosé Champagne

The sign for Bohan-Dillon Road had the “O”s shot out, maybe the “A” too, from rifle blasts. This was a nice contrast to the “No Hunting” sign posted a few feet away. Why is it that the most lauded California Pinot vineyards require drives down twisted, pot-holed dirt roads when the grand crus of Burgundy are visible from the highway?

No matter, Bohan-Dillon leads to all the top-shelf Sonoma Coast vineyards – those of Marcassin, Flowers, Hirsch etc etc. These recognized producers have brought fame and fortune to the steep slopes of the true Sonoma Coast, and each one claims to be a pioneer in the region. Not many of these big names have been around longer than Daniel and Marion Schoenfeld, though, who have been making wine on their mountain property since 1977, albeit as home winemakers. Their winery, Wild Hog Vineyard, became official in 1990.

Wild Hog doesn’t have the name recognition of its superstar neighbors. It doesn’t command the high prices, either. Daniel Schoenfeld intentionally keeps prices affordable, making his wine accessible to the masses. It became obvious, after spending 3 hours popping corks on any and everything in his garage-like winery that he’s not in the business to be famous or make millions. In addition to his own small estate vineyards (Pinot planted in 1981, Zinfandel planted in 1982) he sources fruit from, well, whoever wants to sell him some. He experiments with unique varietals, too; while there I tasted very old vine Carignane from Dry Creek and Montepulciano just to name a couple. And he’s always looking for more, either because it keeps him from boredom or maybe because he can’t say no to a new challenge. The best part about tasting at Wild Hog was that every wine had a crazy story about the people and fruit involved and Daniel was more than willing to tell them.

It’s in these experiences, just spending time talking, tasting, and most importantly, listening, that the spirit of a true winemaker becomes obvious. Not to get overly philosophical, but Daniel’s enthusiasm, knowledge, and plain joy of winemaking was a clear reminder of the adventure that goes into producing each and every vintage. And these experiences are just a phone call, and a twisted, pot-holed dirt road, away.

The full range of some of Daniel’s more “prominent” neighbors, located on just the next ridgetops, currently in stock at Vinfolio:

Marcassin

Flowers

Hirsch

As the title reads, it’s about now when it comes to exploring the emerging pleasures of Portugese wine. What's new, oddly enough, comes from old world cultivars who are bringing new light to the uniqueness of the country’s rich viticultural history. Of course Portugal is well-known for its Ports from the Upper Douro, but explore the wonders of the dry table wines and you will discover real gems to make any adventurous enthusiast a believer.

While Spain boasts record wine success, officially tipping the scales as the largest EU growing nation, Portugal boasts the most vines planted per square hectare. Plainly put, grapes grow with abandon throughout all of Portugal! Today, now, marks Portugal's revival as a world-class dry table wine producer. Sure, you might have trouble pronouncing the names of certain native varietals, but get past that and a rewarding palate education awaits. Quality percolates from the everyday values to the reservas, which incorporate reduced-yield, old-vine material at levels comparable to the EU-approved appellations of France, Italy and Spain.

My own rallying cry for Portugal was sparked by the appearance of a unique Douro Tinto featured by my associate Cyrille Hanson in Tales of the Vine, Issue 9. The road less traveled is where I like to be when it comes to new discoveries. The noted wine is the 2003 Domingos Alves de Sousa’s Quinta da Gaivosa ($52, VF 94) from the Douro Valley. If you need comparables, think rock star, high-profile Spanish Priorat meets a meaty Syrah from the Northern Rhone. Domingos Alves de Sousa’s string of accolades is confirmed with this wine. It needs a slot in your cellar alongside other amazing reds and whites from the major Portuguese outposts including Vinho Verde, Dao, Bairrada, Ribatejo and Alentejo. Many of the reds are blends similar to the Quinta da Gaivosa. The finest Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), Tinto Cao and Touriga Nacional are hand-harvested from vines with an average age of over 60 years. The wine benefits from a year in French barriques and another year in the bottle to mellow out the edges.

The light toast on the wine resembles a well-balanced Left Bank Bordeaux with a double identity of sweet tobacco notes commonly found in Port, but it ultimately displays a dry long finish. Dark black fruit of plum dances along hinter notes of chocolate and herbs. This is not an investment opportunity, but rather a banker for the full-bodied, teeth-staining red wine lover. Bring this to a dinner party and you’ll make friends real quick!

I recommend picking up a six-pack of this darling, as a start to further discovery of Portugal. Look for other other show-stopping dry wines from Portugal in the near future on our site. Now is the time to explore the country's several diverse regions, from southeast of Lisbon to the northern outposts along the Minho River bordering Spain.

A great online resource is the ViniPortugal website. Viniportugal is a trade association whose mission is to promote Portuguese wines. Learn more about great producers such as Dow's, Fonseca, Taylor Fladgate & Yeatman, and Quinta do Crasto. 

Gevrey-Chambertin is the largest commune in the Cote de Nuits and has 9 grand crus and 26 premier crus in addition to the village level vineyards. The soil of Gevrey is composed of Comblanchien limestone and Bajocian marl (primarily clay). Classic Gevrey is characterized by a full, sturdy, rich and earthy style. Undoubtedly, the finest premier cru in Gevrey is Clos St-Jacques (6.7ha). Many would argue that it should be elevated to grand cru status; a similar argument has been made for Chambolle-Musigny’s Les Amoureuses or Vosne-Romanee’s Cros Parantoux.

There are only 5 owners of Clos St-Jacques:
•    Armand Rousseau
•    Louis Jadot
•    Michel Esmonin
•    Bruno Clair
•    Jean-Claude Fourrier
 
Rousseau is the finest producer of Clos St-Jacques and as testament to his belief in the power of this wine, Rousseau serves the Clos St-Jacques after four other grand crus - Mazis, Ruchottes, Charmes, and Clos de la Roche - and just before the Chambertin and Clos de Beze. From this vineyard, there are also negociant bottlings, but they don’t compare to the Domaines above.  

A fine Clos St-Jacques is the quintessential example of breed, power, finesse, and classic Gevrey earth. I am constantly on the lookout for my favorites of Rousseau Clos St-Jacques from the 1993, 1999, 2001, and 2002 vintages. These represent all that is classic Gevrey and all that is Burgundy.

Vinfolio has the following wines from Clos St-Jacques currently in stock:

2006 Bruno Clair - Gevrey Chambertin Clos St-Jacques 1er Cru (BH 91-93) $159

2004 Dominique Laurent - Gevrey Chambertin Clos St-Jacques 1er Cru (WS 92) $75

1983 Maison Leroy - Gevrey Chambertin Clos St-Jacques 1er Cru (BH 88) $149 

The key to great Corton-Charlemagne is the terroir. The Chardonnay grown here is unrivaled due to the combination of exposure and soils of white marl with high clay content over a hard limestone rock base. The result is an incredible combination of breed, class, and intensity underpinned by tremendous minerality and racy acidity. Corton-Charlemagne rivals the focused minerality of grand cru Chablis and the elegance and finesse of Chevalier-Montrachet. 

The appellation of Corton-Charlemagne encompasses three communes. It is often referred to as the Hill of Corton as the orientation and exposure affects the specific character and style:

• Ladoix-Serrigny: 6.5 ha facing primarily east and southeast, can be heavy
• Aloxe-Corton: 48.57 ha south facing which favors ripening (important in leaner years), softer and develops sooner
• Pernand-Vergelesses: 17.25 ha that swing all the way around to the west; the soil is rockier and particularly rich in flint so the wines from Pernand have more acidity and are generally more austere than those from Aloxe or Ladoix.  In particularly ripe years, the Corton-Charlemagnes from Pernand are fresher and livelier.  The wines of Bonneau du Martray, Dubreuil-Fontaine, Laleure-Piot, Rapet, and Roumier are all either largely or completely from Pernand.  All of these wines need more cellar time.

Bonneau du Martray is one of the leading estates and one of the most consistent Domaines for Corton-Charlemagne.  Bonneau du Martray also is the leading principal proprietor with 9.5 hectares.  The 2004 white burgundy vintage is a classic vintage for Burgundy lovers who love terroir. The wines are highly aromatic and show precise minerality. 

A good Corton-Charlemagne needs 8 to 10 years of ageing to show its richness and true potential.  While the 2004 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne is much too young to drink now, this wine will be highly cherished by the smart enthusiast and collector who cellar this smart buy.

2004 Bonneau du Martray - Corton-Charlemagne  $117     In Stock

BH 93               Drink 2012+

Now that this is in bottle, it's even better than I originally thought with a still reserved yet elegant nose of white flower, green apple, pear and natural spice and wet stone notes that introduce detailed, fresh and wonderfully intense flavors that are exceptionally clean and bright, culminating in a bone dry finish replete with superb minerality. This is not as dense as the '05 but the purity here is really something to see and as noted last year, it's sufficiently structured that it will need the better part of a decade to reach its apogee. Note that there was a trace of reduction on the nose and this would benefit from 30 minutes in a decanter should you elect to try one anytime soon.  -Allen Meadows, Burghound Issue 27, 3rd Quarter, 2007 

As I live in Napa Valley, it seems that you often run into winemakers at every corner. Some of the typical occurrences include: meeting them at a sponsored wine event, standing behind them at the supermarket checkout, or sitting beside them at a local restaurant. I've met quite a few winemakers since I've lived in Napa, but the most memorable ones include several women whose winemaking style, palate and grace have stood out over the past decade.  They have raised the bar by bringing "cult wines" to the forefront of collectors' wine lists.

One winemaker that I especially remember meeting and whose wines I had the chance to pour was Heidi Peterson Barrett.  A gracious smile and vibrant personality are a few descriptors that come to mind of our first meeting.  Moreover, Heidi has been characterized by her passionate drive to create beautiful, elegant and timeless wines. At that first tasting, I remember Heidi was featuring the new vintages of her private label called La Sirena and I have been a fan ever since.  

Heidi Peterson Barrett
(La Sirena, Amuse Bouche, Paradigm, Barbour Vineyards, Jones Family, Showket Vineyards,
Lamborn Family, Revana Family and Lynch)

Past clients include Dalla Valle, Screaming Eagle, Grace Family, Vineyard 29, Oakford Vineyards. In addition, Heidi has done a limited amount of consulting work for Diamond Creek Winery and Niebaum-Coppola (Rubicon). Robert Parker has dubbed Heidi Barrett "the first lady of wine."

2004 Amuse Bouche – Proprietary Red (IWC 91, WA 90) $299
2003 Amuse Bouche – Proprietary Red (WS 93, WA 92) $325

These days there are many winemaking styles and women are being noticed not only for their skill as winemakers, but also as vineyard managers and at all levels of winemaking. In addition to Heidi Peterson Barrett, below are some other great “women of California wine” that you should know more about and whose wines you should experience.

Celia Masyczek (Mah-chess-key)
(Scarecrow, Husic, Keever, Cornerstone, Rocca Family, Hollywood & Vine, Kelly Fleming)

2004 Husic – Cabernet Sauvignon (VF 94) $120
2005 Keever – Cabernet Sauvignon (VF 92-94) $68
2004 Rocca Family – Cabernet Sauvignon Yountville (VF 95, WS 93) $70
2003 Cornerstone – Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain (VF 92, WS 88) $85

Kathy Joseph (Fiddlehead Cellars) Santa Barbara, CA

2004 Fiddlehead – Pinot Noir 728 Fiddlestix Vineyard (VF 92, IWC 89) $42

Helen Mawson (WINTER, Hundred Acre (Assistant Winemaker))

2004 Hundred Acre – Cabernet Sauvignon Kayli Morgan Vineyard (WA 94, IWC 94) $275

I admit to being a bit of a history geek, but don’t usually advertise that I am a war/battle site geek too.  Locales of devastation and fighting have somehow gotten worked in to most of the vacations I’ve taken in my adult life.  I also like wine, and since Alsace tempts two of my interests, it was the perfect place to spend a few days of my trip to France last November.  A region torn between frequent sparring partners France and Germany, and influenced in language and culture by both, Alsace holds a special, if not especially appreciated, place in the world of French wine.

Situated along the Rhine River, which forms its eastern boundary, Alsace has been taken and re-taken by the armies of its neighbors since the 9^th century; this has impacted its wine noticeably in the modern era.  As a region of France, Alsace was “northerly,” and produced wines of high acidity and low sugar, the better to blend with grapes from warmer southern regions that could get higher sugar levels.  As a region of Germany, Alsace was “southerly” and expected to produce wines higher in sugar to blend with the more acidic grapes grown in the north.  Because of this back-and-forth of history and war, Alsace wasn’t able to establish its own true style until much later than the rest of both France and Germany.  Though farmers by tradition, the grape growers of Alsace often had to turn to other trades and livelihoods to survive during tough times.  Vineyards, not a priority, were not kept up, which has been another factor in the inconsistency of Alsacian wine.

All is not bleak, though, as in recent decades more attention (and money) has been paid to vineyards and winemaking practices. The region gained AOC status in 1967 and is unique in that varietal names are on the labels, making the wines that much more accessible to Americans. Not only are the wines themselves inviting, but the region welcomes visitors with open arms and amazing food (if you like pork!). In the small villages lining the wine route, it’s perfectly normal to knock on winemakers’ doors; you’ll be invited right in to taste the domaine’s renditions of Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, or Muscat! These drop-in producers might not be the pinnacle of quality, but chatting in broken French/English in someone’s kitchen is always a good way to get to know an area.

I had both the formal tasting appointment and drop-in experiences during my time in Alsace. For a fun bottle to drink with lunch, I stuck to unknown names and labels, exploring whatever was on the restaurant menu. For the purpose of buying higher quality bottles to bring home, the top producers didn’t fail to impress. My favorite producers were ones with whom we had scheduled appointments: Hugel & Fils, Marcel Diess, and Ernest Burn. For lower priced but very tasty wines, I picked up a Riesling from Bott Freres and a Pinot Gris from Kuehn. Whether dry or sweet, Alsacian wines offer an easy-to-understand, deliciously refreshing alternative to more standard summer whites.

Click here to see Vinfolio's current wine selections from Alsace. 

Among the most unique bottlings in the wine market is the Reserva Especial from Vega Sicilia. For several decades, the Bodega has blended two or three different vintages of their Unico - their vintage bottling produced only in the finest years - to create a non-vintage wine in much the same way the Champagne houses create their cuvees. The aim here is consistency between releases.

Vega Sicilia bottles a Reserva Especial in the majority of years, and each particular cuvee produced contains a specific blend of Unico vintages. For example, the NV Reserva Especial released in 1993 contains Unico vintages from 1970 and 1972. Furthermore, the 1997 bottling of the Reserva Especial is a blend of Unico from 1981, 1986 and 1990. There is a lot number on the bottom left of the label that denotes the bottling year, either by stating the vintage outright, or ending with a two-digit year such as “026/97” signifying a 1997 bottling. You’d never notice the code if I didn’t just tell you where it was…

If you’re familiar with Vega Sicilia, you know these are incredibly age-worthy and collectible wines...so you’re bound to see Reserva Especial traded on the market. Yet retailers refer to it as simply “Reserva Especial,” as if it is a single bottling – like 1982 Latour – which it is not. There can be years of bottle age differentiating two Reservas, and the vintages within the blends can be even further apart. Some are young, some are mature; some bottles have been cellared, some just released. My point? These are different wines and should be treated as such in the market.

We just secured a nice collection of Vega Sicilia Reserva Especial and have exerted the effort to note the release years of each bottling. It will assist the collector in distinguishing between wines that are inherently different and of unique character.

NV Vega Sicilia - Unico Reserva Especial (1990 bottling) $325

NV Vega Sicilia - Unico Reserva Especial (1993 bottling) $325

NV Vega Sicilia - Unico Reserva Especial (1996 bottling) $325

NV Vega Sicilia - Unico Reserva Especial (1997 bottling) $325

As the weather changes, so do our tastes for wine and food. With warmer weather, we start enjoying lighter foods and pair them with generally lighter wines. A sunny day begs for crisp, bright, fresh Chablis. Whether steely, flinty, pure and un-oaked or with a touch of wood to round out the palate and add mouthfeel, Chablis is the perfect wine-pairing for oysters, shellfish, and white fish, and also goes well with salads, cheese, chicken, and other white meats.

Cool climate and limestone soils are responsible for the crisp, mineral, laser beam-like focus found in Chablis. Aged Chablis is a revelation for many, as its inherent acidity provides backbone for this Chardonnay to age gracefully. Depending on the vintage, premier crus can drink well in 4-6+ years and grand crus in 6-10+. Here are some quick vintage notes.  Recent Chablis vintages are drinking sooner due to riper vintages (global warming anyone?).

Vintage key points:
2002—terrific vintage and will age well, refreshing acidity and very solid Chablis, classic
2003—hot vintage, so almost California-like, very rich
2004—crisp, classic, and traditional
2005—ripe, high sugar levels and some botrytis makes the wines exotic, more ripe and more flesh than the 2004s
2006—another ripe vintage, lush and opulent. Good acidity and minerality

    

The 7 grand cru vineyards of Chablis face predominantly south or southwest, and are planted on steep (optimal aspect) and well-drained soils on the right bank of the river Serein. Tip: the premier crus Montee de Tonnere and Fourchaume are on the right bank and face south like the grand crus, which is critical for ripening.

Grand cru descriptions:
Blanchot: elegance, finesse, perfume, flowers, not the power and structure of others.
Bourgros or Bouguerots: least known, upfront power and generosity. Cote de Bouguerots is a steep 2ha parcel at the bottom of the vineyard farmed by hand.
Les Clos: the epitome of Chablis, power and finesse, incredible minerality and longevity.
Grenouilles: perfume in youth, minerality, elegance, the lightest of the grand crus.
Preuses: the most forward of the grand crus, approachable, round and fruity, full flavored, less subtle.
Valmur: floral, perfumed, rich and full-bodied, long lived.
Vaudesir: floral, spicy, develops nutty character, can drink in youth or with age.

Look for the top Chablis domaines:  Raveneau, Dauvissat, and William Fevre

Valdeorras is Godello country! What is Godello you may ask? Well, it’s an ancient white varietal that has laid its claim in Valdeorras since the Roman occupation. The region juts north of Portugal and east of Riaxas Baixas, in the Galicia region of N.W. Spain. The Romans were attracted to Valdeorras (Golden Valley) for its precious metals and gold mining, but like other areas they conquered, vineyards followed. This is also evident in Germany, Burgundy and the Northern Rhone. In the Middle Ages, the baton was passed to the Catholic Church, and monks played an instrumental role in fine-tuning the terraced vineyards. Fast forward to the modern era, when the once important Godello was not even mentioned in discussions of benchmark Spanish wines. It was only in the 1990s that certain mavericks, intent on preserving this ancient cultivar, were noticed by boutique American importers and the Spanish wine press.

Rafael Palacios was one of the several talented young winemakers who saw the potential of old-vine Godello from some of the steepest hillsides of Valdeorras. His Godello project launched in 2004, and the accolades keep coming in with the flagship “As Sortes” label. The grape has gained more popularity in the American market due to the effort of U.S. importers like Eric Solomon. Godello has followed in the footsteps of its “kissing cousin” Albarino, the banner grape of Rias Baixas, but not in terms of production. Some Valdeorras blends include both varietals, making for a crisp and aromatic wonder. Albarino is the most recognized white varietal of the region, and probably all of Spain. It’s user-friendly, with great aromatics and a mouthfeel similar to Viognier.  However, where there’s fame, there’s often over production. If Albarino is the poster child of Galicia, then old-vine Godello is a prince about to be king! I crave Godello for its searing minerality, which makes Albarino taste somewhat flabby and overtly fruity by comparison, especially when sipping a value-driven young-vine effort.

Palacios’ “As Sortes” bottling may be the finest Godello imported into the states. The name refers to an old Galician practice of children picking parcels’ names out of a hat during the passing of the inheritance.  I remember my first time tasting this wine in Spain back in 2005, and I still remember the overall package distinctively from the entry to finish. Want to put a sleeper into your next group tasting or seafood fest? Well, the 2006 “As Sortes” will make for a tasty impression. Mouth watering is an understatement! Just take a whiff of this and you will salivate, as the wine beckons you for another sip.  On my last trip to Galacia, my most memorable food and wine pairing experience was sipping on Godello with a simple preparation of pan-roasted razor clams. Sheer bliss … pinch me please!

Many would find spending $35 or more for a Spanish white not worth it, since you can usually find pleasant quaffers for $15 to $20. We’re not talking quaffer here, but more of a palate-changing experience. Consider the 2006 “As Sortes” based on its aromatic depth and mouthfeel. Close your eyes and you might think you’re about to wrap your lips onto a 1er Cru Puligny or Chassagne Montrachet with a hint of Riesling-esque minerality typical of a dry Austrian style. Chalk up some zesty spice and lemon peel with a dose of stone fruit. Yes, there are many superlatives here, but talk is cheap, so pick up a six-pack of this limited production old-vine white. “As Sortes”’ can age better than Albarino, and it gains more complexity with a few years of bottle age. A flavor impression, seafood-pairing champion, this Valdeorras superstar needs your love! The “As Sortes” is a must for anyone who likes classy White Burgundy!

 

 

2006 Rafael Palacios "As Sortes" ($41) IWC 92

My Tuscan exploration continues. Excited by a recent showing of the 1997 Argiano, I came across a bottle of the 1990 and took it to a favorite Italian restaurant called Sociale. Not only am I high on Brunello at the moment, particularly from the trustworthy producers whose wines age gracefully and properly, but the 1990 vintage has me rather excited to dive deeper into what is an exceptional year for Tuscany and Brunello di Montalcino in particular.
 
The 1990 Argiano showed really, really well. It’s mature, but has ample fruit and structure for continued development. Sangiovese’s hallmark acidity brought verve and liveliness that helped the wine develop throughout the meal. The wine revealed beautiful dark fruits, floral character, as well as notes of spice and mushroom.

My advice is to get into the 1990 Brunellos. Bottles from producers of balanced, age-able wines are certain to offer tons of pleasure at this point in time – I would imagine very few require more bottle age. This bottle is the most recent in a succession of great 1990s (such as Valdicava, Ciacci Piccolomini, Altesino) that I’ve recently tried. I haven’t found any over-ripeness, roasted qualities or imbalance that the year’s heat had brought to other regions such as Burgundy, Bordeaux and even Piedmont. There are tons of 1990 Brunellos floating around the market and through Vinfolio. They are truly worth your attention. Below are some prime examples:

1990 Costanti, Conti - Brunello di Montalcino, WS 93, $95

1990 Poggione - Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, WS 91, $135

1990 Pertimali (Livio Sassetti) - Brunello di Montalcino, $150

1990 Poggio Antico - Brunello di Montalcino, WS 91, $169

1990 Caparzo - Brunello di Montalcino Vigna La Casa, WA 91, $185

1990 Banfi - Brunello di Montalcino Poggio all'Oro Riserva, $189

1990 Costanti, Conti - Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, $225

Burgundy has always held a certain mysterious appeal for the wine collector. The obvious reason is the region’s stunning Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, grown on Burgundy’s famous limestone soils; but the challenge of comprehending this region is also a significant draw. Factors of history, politics, geology, and micro-climate contribute to its complexity. It is apparent that these wines demand much attention in order to be fully appreciated, but that they always remain enigmatic; Burgundy might never be fully comprehensible, but something can be learned with each new tasting experience, making it an unending source of exploration.    

The history of the vine in Burgundy is quite extensive. From 900 AD until the French Revolution, vineyards were owned by the Church. During these early years, monasteries did extensive planting and established some of today’s best known vineyards. The monks helped facilitate a natural selection of vineyard sites so that plantings were done in the best possible locations. After the French Revolution, Burgundy’s vineyards were divided among the workers who had tended those vines. From that point on, the Napoleonic inheritance laws subdivided vineyards further to the point of individual rows. Because of this subdivision, négociants, merchants who buy grapes or juice from growers and make their own wines, are common. Some examples of well-known négociants include Bouchard Père et Fils, Joseph Drouhin, Faiveley, Louis Jadot, and Louis Latour.

As further testament to Burgundy’s diversity, there are nearly 100 AOC (appellation contrôlée) in the region. Burgundies are classified by origin rather than by producer (or château) as in Bordeaux. Quality levels increase as a wine’s grape source becomes more specific, ranging from Regional and Communal (Villages) locations, to Premier and Grand Cru vineyards. The Villages sites are typically located on the flatlands closer to towns, whereas the Premier Cru vineyards have more advantageous locations on the hillsides. Finally, the Grand Cru vineyards are located on the middle and upper portions of the slopes and represent the ideal combination of soil, aspect, sunshine, and drainage.  Some examples of famous Grand Cru vineyards include the Pinot Noir sites "Bonnes Mares" and "Richebourg" and acclaimed Chardonnay sites "Le Montrachet" and "Corton-Charlemagne."

Since it is common for many growers to own small parcels in specific vineyards, there exists the unique opportunity to sample the various growers’ renditions from the same vineyard.  These comparisons highlight a producer’s particular style, as well as the various growing conditions within the vineyard. Throughout the region, there is geographic, climatic, and vintage variation, all of which add exciting components to the Burgundy experience.

Despite the fact that it can be challenging and intimidating, the region’s very complexity can inspire a lifetime of discovery and enjoyment.  There are many well-known producers in Burgundy who consistently make impressive and investment-worthy wines.  However, great quality can also be found in more reasonably priced regional appellations, especially when crafted by an expert producer. The goal of all Burgundy is to best express its unique sense of place. Due to the proliferation of vineyard holdings, each producer aims to make wines that differentiate themselves by their ability to mirror the characteristics of the land and the winemaker’s personal style.

The following is a list of my favorite selections currently featured in our wine store:

2006 Faiveley, Joseph - Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er Cru, BH 91-93, $69.95
2005 Bertagna - Nuits St Georges Les Murgers 1er Cru, BH 90-92, $89
1999 Delarche, Marius - Corton-Renardes, BH 92, $92
2005 Trapet - Latricieres-Chambertin, BH 94, $179
2003 Magnien, Frederic - Chambertin Clos de Beze, BH 92-95, $195
2005 Potel, Nicolas - Bonnes Mares, BH 93-95, $325
2002 Lignier, Hubert - Clos de la Roche, BH 94, $365
2002 Mugnier, Jacques-Frederic – Musigny, BH 94, $659
1995 DRC - La Tache, BH 94, $1,495

2006 Fevre, William - Chablis Fourchaume 1er Cru, BH 90-93, $40.95
2005 Long-Depaquit - Chablis Les Clos, BH 92, $54
2005 Girardin, Vincent - Corton-Charlemagne Quintessence, BH 92-95, $175
2005 Lafon, Comtes - Meursault Charmes 1er Cru, BH 91-93, $315
2004 Niellon, Michel - Batard-Montrachet, BH 94, $399

“New World” wine nations have established themselves as serious producers of noted Bordelais varietals for the past quarter century. The five noted red grapes of Bordeaux are of course Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec. Several countries have been very successful producing and marketing these varieties. In the United States, we have Napa Valley, and Columbia Valley in Washington State. Down in South America we have the Colchagua Valley and Maipo Valley making an array of Bordeaux-inspired blends. In Argentina, we can’t forget the success of Malbec in the high altitude vineyards of Mendoza. Zipping across the globe to New Zealand, we find the “Big Three” (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Cabernet Franc) popping up in the Hawkes Bay district of the North Island. Australia knows Syrah (Shiraz), but Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot perform well in the Margaret River, Victoria and Coonawaara districts.

                  

But let’s not forget about South Africa! Here’s a nation that had been almost forgotten due to sanctions on the former Apartheid government. The fact is that South Africa is the oldest growing region of the “New World” category. It has been documented that the first vines were planted in 1655 by the Dutch East India Trading Company. However, they were not successful, and a major replanting began almost thirty years later on the back end of Cape Town.  This project was considered one of the largest in colonial times, and was called Groot Constantia. There are still wineries in this growing district, but aromatic whites seem to be its calling card. The most noted areas for Bordeaux-inspired varietals are to be found in Stellenbosch and, to some extent, in Paarl. Stellenbosch will remind many of travelling through Napa Valley, and the varietal landscape is similar, except for plantings of Pinotage (crossing of Pinot Noir & Cinsault) and Steen (Chenin Blanc). 

Since 1994, when democratic elections replaced the Apartheid government, South African wines have returned to the international stage and imports to the United States have soared to record highs. Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc have increased in both production and fame, but the “Big Three” still form the foundation for quality and rival the best efforts from other “New World” regions.  I find that these South African wines are the most similar to the blends of Bordeaux, especially with subtle tertiary nuances of herbs, dry-brushy notes, mint, cedar box and lead pencil. They are not just about bombastic black jammy fruit bolstered with alcohol levels of 15.5%, which can too often be the case with their competitors. Many estates in Stellenbosch offer fantastic Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux-inspired blends for a third or even half the price of Napa’s finest, making them great finds that won’t disappoint.

Vinfolio currently has four of the finest South African producers on the site, and they would make for a tasty “exploration mix case sampler”! These wines can be enjoyed now with a good 60 minutes of decanting time, and pair well with grilled or roasted meats. These efforts are also excellent mid-term cellaring candidates that will only improve with 2-6 years of age. 

2004 Neil Ellis - Cabernet Sauvignon Vineyard Selection ($39) IWC 91

2004 Ernie Els - Engelbrecht Els Red ($39) IWC 92/WS 91

2004 Rustenberg - Peter Barlow ($32) IWC 93

2003 Vilafonte - Series C ($56) WS 88

Other noted producers of this category to look out for are Boekenhoutskloof, Buitenverwachting, De Trafford, Grangehurst, Kaapzicht, Meerlust, Plaisir de Merle, Rudera, Stark Conde, Thelema, Vergelegen, Warwick and Waterford.  All of the above are imported into the country.

 

 

The 2006 Oregon Pinot Noir vintage is looking great.  Wine Spectator comments, “those who like the suppleness and relatively light texture of Oregon Pinot will want to stock up this year.  2006 saw a long, hot summer that got the grapes totally ripe.  The flavors are sweet and the textures supple.  Look for generous wines with higher alcohols than the moderate levels seen in 2004 and 2005.  The wines have impressive depth and drink-me-now quality…The run ends in 2007, though, as heavy rains fell on a larger than normal grape crop just as it was ripening.”  (Harvey Steiman, The Wine Spectator, Vol. 32, No. 15)

Growing up in Seattle, I have always been a huge fan of the Shea Vineyard (sourced by Panther Creek, Ken Wright, St Innocent, and even Sine Qua Non).  I bought the 2006 Shea Wine Cellars - Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard Estate myself.  The Shea Vineyard is the source for Oregon Pinot and this is a reference standard.  If you want to do an interesting comparative tasting of vineyard-designate Pinot, start gathering the various renditions of the 2006 Shea Vineyard. 

Currently in stock:

 2006 Raptor Ridge Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard ($46)

A ginger and black cherry nose with soft undertones of mocha and vanilla dust. The palate shows well defined weight and deeply structured flavors; black berry, plum, hints of smoky licorice and kirsch that coat the palate with velvet-like tannins. Another Shea masterpiece. VF 96

- Doug Wilder, The Wilder Side of California, Issue 136

 

 

 2006 Shea Wine Cellars Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard Estate ($45) 

The nose shows violet and licorice/sassafras with cola and black cherry tart. The fat, powdered blueberry and violet ripeness on the palate is balanced by focused acidity. More structured than the 2005. VF 95

- Doug Wilder, The Wilder Side of California, Issue 143

Recently, I was climbing over a fence in a skirt, trying not to fall on my face.  To my left, a deer spine and hind leg snaked through the posts.  It was cold; nose-running, eyes-watering cold and windy, and little rain drops were starting to knife their way down from dark clouds.  At 2,200 feet above sea level, Mt Harlan seemed a magnet for the oncoming storm. On the other side of the fence laid the motivation for being out in this kind of weather, dressed so inappropriately.  Josh Jensen’s Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines arched tightly up and down the hills, separated by blankets of bright green groundcover. I have to admit, I was freezing, and so didn’t walk far enough in the right direction to see the famed lime kiln for which the Calera Wine Company is named.  I did, however, spot innumerable whitish pebbles sticking up out of the soil, belying the geological fact of a vast limestone deposit’s presence below.   

Jensen’s vines are fairly widely spaced, as is true of most vineyards planted in the late 1970s.  Sections have been replanted, but the Pinot remains entirely Calera clone, planted with cuttings taken from Chalone vineyards across the valley. The Calera Pinot vineyards (Selleck, Reed, Jensen, and Mills) produce wines of varying profiles, depending on their exact location, but all are unmistakably clear expressions of pure Pinot fruit.  Of the 2005s tasted, my favorite was from the Jensen Vineyard as it jumped out of the glass with red fruit on the nose, and continued with structure on the palate, providing the "backbone" for the warm spice roundness.  Good acidity carried the wine through to a long, balanced finish.  Also of note, though not Pinot, was the Chardonnay Mt Harlan, with an equally vibrant nose and excellent clarity and focus from attack to mid-palate to finish.

If you have a free Sunday, take the beautiful drive toward Hollister and taste at Calera.  Even if you don’t have time to break away, try a bottle of Josh Jensen’s Mt Harlan Pinot Noir or Chardonnay.  You won’t be disappointed.

Gastronomically speaking, it seems anything “Spain” has been on a ten-year upswing in the States. From the success of small plate-tapas bars in urban centers, to the upsurge in the import of wines from previously unknown regions, there’s no way around it, Spain is hot! This has propelled some friends and me to host an annual Spanish Feast over the last few years. A bounty of seafood is always at the top of the menu, paired with Cava and crisp aromatic whites. We usually prep three large Paella pans (seafood, veggie and meat lovers’ paradise), with Garnacha Rosados and savory Tempranillo Jovens waiting in the wings.

Beyond the food, I take great pride in selecting the wines for the theme. There’s an immense array of options that showcase distinct native varietals from bubbly to fortified, and more often than not they are the tastiest values available. Many of the native cultivars should be enjoyed young. They are extremely food-friendly, showcasing fresh, forward fruit, backed with cleansing acidity.

At Vinfolio we try to promote some of these darlings throughout the year and our clients appreciate that we have these wines available by the case for their entertaining needs. We presently have two wines on the site that scream “Spanish Party Wine”!   

Albariño is fast becoming what New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc or Viognier were in the early 1990s. Back then, there weren’t more than three or four Albarinos imported into the country. Today, the number has increased 500% if you include regions neighboring the famed Rias Baixas appellation in Galicia. Like Viognier, Albariño is aromatic, with a distinct stone fruit element rising off the nose. In most cases, the banner fruit scheme is peach backed with vibrant acidity and a twinge of minerality that will remind a wine enthusiast of German Riesling. The majority of the Albariño imported is un-oaked and tank-fermented to preserve the flowery aromatics and freshness.

2006 Nessa Albariño ($12) has won us over with its textbook notes of white flowers, zingy ginger-lemon zest backed with a light pear note. “Nessa” is made with the American market in mind. The parent winery is Adegas Gran Vinum, which has only been in business since 2002, but with the success of the past two vintages, this outfit is on the fast track to success. The winery is based in the Salnes Valley, where the grape thrives in the well-drained granite-based soils. Pair with citrus-glazed scallops, or any grilled seafood such as shrimp, spiny-tail lobster, or octopus.  

Mencia has become a favorite of the sommelier community here in the States. Testing has tied the grape genetically to Cabernet Franc, however, locals in the village of Bierzo and Ribeira Sacra would argue otherwise, stressing its uniqueness to the most inland portions of Galicia and the northeastern tip of Castile-León. The Bierzo district has more associated with Galicia than it does with the Castilian Empire, and the palate virtues of the Mencia varietal are putting this ancient viticulture pocket back on the map. It’s the only recommended red-skinned grape of the region. When tasting, the Cabernet Franc comparison is evident, with streaks of herbs and mint.

2006 Descendientes de Jose Palacios ‘Petalos’ Mencia ($20) has just been released on the site and it’s similar in quality to the 2005 rendition, which had great success. The schist-based mineral component really shines in this youthful, but approachable wine. Notes of black cherry and black raspberry hit the palate with pleasing results. The back end reveals more mineral notes intertwined with cigar ash and oil-cured black olives. It’s important to let this wine breath in glass or decanter for a good hour, but patience is rewarded! Close your eyes and you might think you’re drinking a wine triple the price. The Descendientes de Jose Palacios project is dedicated to this grape, sourcing old-vine material throughout the village of Corullon in Bierzo. There are other single vineyard offerings on the site that are more oak-driven and need time, but the 2006 Petalos is fresh, having spent only about 8 months in older oak. The vines used in this cuvée range from 40 to 90 years old. The Petalos cries out for lamb of any kind, but I like spicy dry rub lamb sirloin on the grill. When planning your Spanish Feast, perhaps try a slow-roasted leg of suckling pig! 

I’ve heard, and sometimes sided with, the argument that narrowly declares Sangiovese the ­only real Tuscan grape. Without a doubt Sangiovese best expresses the Tuscan region, but “Super-Tuscans” have been gaining their “street cred” as formidable newcomers.  Recently, I’ve been scanning the landscape of these Cabernet-based blends which, I think, deserve every bit as much respect as the famed locals. So who’s making the best non-Sangiovese-based wines in Tuscany?

 
The crown may go to Castello dei Rampolla, producer of two cultish, but relatively affordable bottlings: 2004 Sammarco ($65), (65-90% Cabernet, the rest Sangiovese), and 2004 Vigne d’Alceo ($165), (typically 85% Cabernet, the rest Petit Verdot or sometimes Sangiovese). Of Super-Tuscan producers, none are more soulful and genuine than those made by this low-tech operation. Despite the flavor profile that calls to mind Pauillac and Graves with its tobacco, mineral, and cedar, these are unmistakably Tuscan, which is something to try to wrap your head and palate around.

 
As 2004 was an ideal vintage in Tuscany, it makes sense to pay attention to the best. A recently-consumed bottle of the 1985 Sammarco proves these wines age beautifully and gracefully…if you can keep from pulling the corks. So add Castello dei Rampolla to your short-list of Tuscan go-tos. Dare I say they speak more of Tuscany than many Brunellos out there.

While we have been selling the 2005 Burgundies since early last year, we still have some new additions and purchases for the 2005 Burgundy campaign.  Allen Meadows of Burghound released issue 29 yesterday on the Cote de Nuits – The 2006 and 2005 Vintages.  Allen’s final reviews on the 2005 Cote de Nuits are even better than originally previewed and what was acknowledged as "the best vintage since 1978" is now being elevated to "one of the greatest vintages in the history of modern Burgundy."  Click here for all listings of the 2005 Cote de Nuits reds available before they sell out. 

A word to the wise:
Considering the strength of the dollar and the upward pricing pressure on the 2005s, use our advanced search to review our inventory for blue chip Burgundies from the 1993, 1995, 1996, 1999, 2001, and 2002 vintages.

January is time to face the inevitable challenge of sticking to our well-intentioned New Year’s resolutions, so often having to do with our waistlines: a new diet, more exercise, and healthy eating!  You might have already stopped going to the gym, but before you give up completely, consider dessert wines as an easy replacement for high calorie after-dinner treats.  These days, dessert wines are made in just about every region, but the most famous remain Sauternes from Bordeaux, Tokaji from Hungary, and Vin Santo from Tuscany. 

Regardless of origin, all dessert wine is made by concentrating the sugars in the grape.  In the case of Sauternes and Tokaji, the winemakers use grapes that have also been affected by Botrytis, a mold that shrivels the grapes on the vine.  For Vin Santo, the grapes are dried, producing the same effect of concentrating the sugars. Producing these wines from vineyard to bottle is a very laborious process combined with an enormous amount of risk that’s taken with each vintage.   Understanding all that goes into these wines shows what a great value they truly are!  

Sauternes 

Origin: France–Bordeaux.  Five villages comprise the Sauternes region: Sauternes, Barsac, Priegnac, Fargues, and Bommes.

Grapes: Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle.

Brief History: Sauternes most likely began producing sweet wine in the 18^th century, though debate remains on specific dates.  Whether earlier or later, what is certain is the suitability of the region for the production of botrytis-infected nectar.  In late autumn, morning mist settles in the vineyards and then burns off during the warm days, providing perfect conditions for the growth of noble rot. 

In 1855, Sauternes was categorized into a three-tiered hierarchy, with Yquem at the top as the Premier Cru Supérieur (First Great Growth).  The premiers and deuxièmes crus follow and produce high quality, if somewhat less expensive, offerings. 

Browse the complete Vinfolio inventory of Sauternes. 

Some highlights from the Vinfolio wine store include: 

1990 Yquem ($425) 

2003 Yquem ($159) 

1988 Rieussec ($109) 

1990 Suduiraut ($69)

Food Pairing: Try with Foie Gras or mild Roquefort.  Considering the price and complexity of great Sauternes, they are often enjoyed by themselves.

Great Vintages: 2005, 2003, 2001, 1990, 1989, 1988, 1986

Tokaji 

Origin: Hungary – Tokaj-Hegyalja 

Grapes: Furmint, Hárslevelű and Muscat Lunel

Brief History: Tokaji was subject to the world’s first appellation control, beginning in 1730, decades before Port and more than 100 years before Bordeaux. Given Tokaji as a gift in 1703, Louis XIV entitled it the "Wine of Kings, King of Wines."

Tokaji is categorized according to the amount of aszú, or nobly rotten fruit, added to the base wine.  The concentration of the wine ranges from 3 to 6 puttonyos: the higher the number, the more concentrated and sweeter the wine.  The highest level of Tokaji is essencia, which has the highest concentration of flavor, and is therefore the most highly valued. 

Vinfolio currently offers the following selections:

1995 Royal Tokaji - Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos Mezes Maly ($103)

1999 Royal Tokaji - Aszu Essencia ($449)

Food Pairing: Pairs similarly as Sauternes, Tokaji is also ideal with fruit or nut-based based desserts and cheesecake.

Great Vintages: 1988, 1993, 1999, 2000, 2003, 2005

Vin Santo

Origin:  Italy, Tuscany.  Also made on the island of Santorini in Greece.

Grapes: Passito, Trebbiano Toscano, and Malvasia, as well as other local varietals.  There is also a red Vin Santo known as Occhio di Pernice made from Sangiovese and other local varietals.

Brief History: Vin Santo was known as Vin Pretto or “pure wine” prior to the 14^th Century, and was used in religious services.  Later, it became known as Vin Santo, but quality producers still make it in the traditional way.  The grapes are dried on racks and mats then aged in small, often chestnut, barrels known as caratelli.  Typically the barrels are not completely filled to allow a little room for air, which helps with the natural oxidation process.

From the Vinfolio wine store:

1999 Felsina Berardenga - Vin Santo del Chianti Classico ($33)

Food Pairing: Vin Santo goes well with desserts made with dried fruit and nuts, especially pecans, walnuts, and hazelnuts, as well as chocolate and caramel combinations

Great Vintages: There is a separate DOC appellation for Vin Santo, however, in vintage reports it is not separated from Chianti and so follows Chianti’s great vintages: 1997, 1999, 2001, 2004, and 2005.

Serving recommedations

One thing about the three of these wines is that when they are of good quality they all age well and develop beautifully in the bottle. Usually with Sauternes and Tokaji, their lifetime is referred to as timeless. All three of the wines should be served around 52 degrees, however, some people prefer their Vin Santo closer to room temperature.  Remember never serve this wine too cold or you will shut down all of those beautiful aromas.

Speaking of beautiful aromas…

You don’t often see is either Sauternes or Tokaji served in the best glass for this style of wine.   The glass pictured is part of the Sommeliers Line from Riedel and is specifically designed for enjoying these very aromatic wines.  This is a great example of how Riedel engineering makes a significant difference in our enjoyment of the wine in the glass!

As you embark on a new year of wine exploration, I hope the dessert you find in your glass gives you abundant motivation to stick to at least one of your New Year’s resolutions.  If you’re interested in reading more on dessert wines, (and being tempted by food pairings), check out Sweet Wines:  A Guide to the World’s Best with Recipes by James Peterson.

Over the holidays I decided to open my 3 liter of 2000 Catena Alta Cabernet Sauvignon that I had been saving for a special occasion. A few years ago I had been given this bottle as a wedding gift and wanted to share it with friends and family. It was a special treat to serve the wine from my magnum decanter to a table of thirteen, including guests from Boston, Miami, San Diego and San Paolo, Brazil. This Cabernet was a delicious pair to meat lasagna and tiramisu dessert. 

As a brief background, Catena Alta wines are a label produced by Bodegas Catena Zapata from Mendoza, Argentina. All of the Alta selections (Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay) are single varietal wines sourced from select rows of high altitude estate vineyards. The 2000 vintage is a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Malbec. During this wine’s particular growing season, the grapes benefited from warm days, adding body and concentration to the wine, as well as cool nights, providing balanced acidity and structure.

When my guests tasted this wine, the response was overwhelmingly positive. Some of the impressions included dark berry fruits such as plums and cassis. I was most struck by the chocolate and leather notes that intertwined elegantly with flavors of earth, cedar and vanilla. The wine had a full-bodied mouthfeel whose fruit and tannin structure was evident in the long finish.

Winemaker José Galante makes similar observations:

The 2000 Catena Alta Cabernet Sauvignon has a deep, dark ruby red color with violet and purple hues. The nose is powerful yet focused, with aromas of cassis and black currant fruit interwoven with a touch of eucalyptus, vanilla, cedar and leather. The mouthfeel is full, yet soft, with rich, concentrated flavors of plum and black cherry interwoven with hints of chocolate and sweet spice. The finish is structured and lingering, with firm yet finely grained tannins. 

In conclusion, I recommend that if you haven’t had the chance to try the wines by Bodegas Catena Zapata, in particular the Alta selections, 2008 is the time! The Vinfolio wine store is currently selling the 2004 Catena Alta - Cabernet Sauvignon ($44) and 2003 Catena Zapata, Nicolas - Cabernet Sauvignon ($92).

The Holiday Season is in full swing rolling into the second week of December, as a barrage of holiday parties brings up the question of which beverage to bring to the party to elevate good cheer as well as complement a diversity of foods. My first recommendation is Champagne, specifically the “Single Grower” category. Many overlook Champagne because they think they have to jump to the $100 to $150 range to procure a grand bubbly. On the contrary, a stream of family-run and estate grown operations have been making their way into the U.S. in record numbers since the early 1990s. It’s not just about the “Big Boys” based in Epernay and Reims anymore. Production from this small band of producers is still a drop in the bucket when you consider that the top three Champagne brands account for over 65% of all the Champagne imported into this country.  

Wake up America! We have more choices than ever when it comes to excellent bubbly, and certain American retailers are taking a stance in the right direction, showcasing a variety of houses that emphasize their sense of place. Furthermore, these family-owned and operated houses frequently source from highly rated Grand Cru vineyards, in comparison to the luxury houses who only implement top-rated fruit in their most exclusive bottlings. Many of the luxury goods houses market a non-vintage category that is sweetened for the American palate. By law, a non-vintage Brut can receive a dose of sugar of up to 15 grams per liter. Many of the most recognizable and most mass produced non-vintage brands hit this mark. On the flip side, many of the “Single Grower” houses advertise a much lower dosage of sugar, averaging 6 to 9 grams per liter, allowing minerality and subtle fruit nuances to be revealed. Furthermore, many of these houses use a high percentage of Grand Cru rated fruit to make up the base for their entry level, non-vintage or multi-vintage category. You may need to spend an additional $5 to $15 on certain small house selections, but the rewards are tremendous, revealing Champagne as a truly serious wine, on par with high quality Burgundy!

I encourage the American wine public to make a New Year’s resolution to drink better quality Champagne and to demand more choices on its retail shelves from the “Single Grower” movement. The longer you are around fine wine, the more you will appreciate Champagne for its food pairing capabilities, diversity in site selection and style diversity. Vinfolio catalogues a healthy array of small producers from the non-vintage category to the vintage dated reserve cuvée. Below are six efforts that speak volumes for quality, making you seriously contemplate the unique and spectacular nature of Champagne.

Rene Geoffroy Brut 'Expression' NV   $42.00 / IWC 90

Move over Veuve ‘Yellow Label’! Geoffroy’s entry level is far from being on training wheels. It doesn’t get better for the category. Recently disgorged, 11/06, it’s split between the ’03 and ’04 vintage (24% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Meunier and 18% Pinot Noir). Be amazed by its refinement.

Rene Geoffroy Vintage Brut 1er Cru 1999   $65.00 / BH 92

The family traces ownership of their vineyards in Cumieres back to the 17^th century. This house specializes in ageing its base wines in oak foudres without malolactic fermentation. The 1999 is equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that is 100% wood vinified. This is precious nectar! Vinfolio was fortunate to source a few cases.

Roger Coulon Brut Millesime 2002    $58.00 / IWC 92

The cellars are based in Vrigny, although Eric and Isabelle Coulon own nine hectares spread across five different villages. The holdings have a high percentage of Pinot Meunier that average 40 to 60 years of age. The 2002 is approximately equal parts Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.

Jean Milan Vintage Brut 'Terres de Noel' 2002   $79.00 / IWC 92

You can’t talk about Chardonnay-driven estates without mentioning this Oger-based superstar. ‘Terres de Noel’ is a 50 year-old parcel that remains one of the finest of all the Blanc de Blancs. The 2002 vintage has been considered the best Chardonnay vintage since the heralded 1996. Tasty now, but will age gracefully for another 3 to 6 years.

Pierre Gimonnet 'Brut Paradoxe'1er Cru 2002   $49.00 / IWC 92

Growers in the village of Cuis since 1750, this house specializes in Chardonnay. However, the ‘Paradoxe’ incorporates 50% Pinot Noir from the ‘Les Clefs’ climat in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. The Pinot Noir really shines on the nose!

Bruno Paillard 'Brut Millesime Assemblage' 1996     $55.00 / IWC 92

The house of Paillard, based in Reims, is the vision of Bruno Paillard, who built the house from scratch. This was one of the first firms to include disgorgement dates on the back label.  The 1996 vintage is one of my favorites for this spectacular vintage at a song of a price.

The 2005 Vogué Musigny Vieilles Vignes may be the wine of the vintage for 2005 red Burgundy!  This was just released on our website today.  Allen Meadows comments, "whether it will ultimately transcend the heights achieved by the 1919 or the 1949 remains an open question."  

2005 Vogué, Comte de - Musigny (Vieilles Vignes)   $1,450   6 bottle limit  
BH 96-99    Drink Date: 2020+  Comments: Don’t Miss
IWC 95-98
WA 96-98

Commune: Chambolle-Musigny
Commune Characteristics: Chambolle-Musigny produces the most delicate wines in the Cote de Nuits showing more perfume, elegance, silk and lace.  Clive Coates describes it as the "ballerina," rather that the "shot putter."
Vineyard: Le Musigny grand cru

Vineyard/terroir notes:  
•    One of the very greatest climats in the whole of the Cote d'Or with Chambertin, Chambertin Clos de Beze, la Tache, and Romanee-Conti
•    Up slope--oolite, limestone further down, high in limestone
•    Red clay not found elsewhere
•    Northern part is Grand Musigny or simply Musigny
•    Southern--les Petits Musigny--monopole of Vogué

There are three climats in Musigny.  Vogué has a monopole on one of the two best climats, les Petits Musigny (4.2 ha), which their ancestors have owned since 1766.  They own a whopping 66.5% of the entire vineyard.  Four domaines in total own 90% of Musigny (Prieur, Mugnier, and Drouhin, along with Vogue).

Vineyard Characteristics:
•    Majesty itself, the "queen" rather than the "king" when you think of texture and character
•    At it best, the most delicious grand cru in Burgundy
•    Harmonious, complex, profound bouquet, and balance
•    Petits fruits rouges galore, breed, purity

Allen Meadows comments that Musigny "combines power, richness, finesse, and complexity.  It is one of the two or three supreme expressions in all of Burgundy.  There is no shortage of Burgundy lovers who will claim that the greatest red Burgundy they have ever tasted is between the '45, '47, or '49 Musigny from Comte de Vogué."
 
Top Musigny domaines:
•    Vogue (7.14ha)
•    Mugnier (1.14ha)
•    Prieur (77a)
•    Drouhin (67a)
•    Leroy (27a)
•    Jadot (17a)
•    Roumier (10a)
•    Faiveley(3a)

Surface area: 10.86 ha
Average Production: 39,600 bottles

1ha = 2.471 acres
100 acres = 1 ha

A few months ago, I attended an Italian wine trade event that showcased a regional snapshot of the country’s many diverse growing districts. My mission for this tasting was to sample oddities that I don’t necessarily taste on a regular basis. One can't comprehend Italian wines in all their glory by drinking only Barolo and Brunello. With this in mind, I gravitated to the Southern Italian section of the tasting and stumbled onto my dark horse find for 4Q of ’07 and also my favorite winery duo of the tasting - Vestini Campagnano.

The two varietals that I tasted from this winery are native to the province of Caserta, north of Naples. Vestini’s tandem one-two-punch showcases Pallagrello, one of the few ancient vines that has both a white and red version that was highly prized during Roman times. Pallagrello Bianco is believed to be one of the blending grapes for the Roman’s most famous wine-Falernum. Centuries later, it’s documented that Pallagrello Rosso was a favorite of Ferdinando IV, Bourbon King of the Two Sicilies, who shared it with honored guests towards the end of the Napoleonic Era. Pallagrello was all too close to extinction, if it wasn’t for two lawyer friends, Giuseppe Mancini and Alberto Barletta, who created Vestini Campagnano in the early 1990s with the mission to preserve these ancient varietals and to make world-class wines. Based on my notes and the Italian press, the owners have succeeded with high marks.

I was pleasantly surprised to find the same wines on Vinfolio’s site a few weeks ago. Good job buyers! Now it’s my job to speak the gospel and get these darlings into your hands. With over 250 Italian selections on the site, sourcing older Super Tuscans and 2004 Nebbiolo from Piedmont is perhaps the priority for the serious collector with investment in mind, but for those who want to think out of the box, Vestini Campagnano needs to be at the top of your list.

2006 Vestini Campagnano Pallagrello Bianco-$34
You would be hard pressed to taste a wine that has more layers of flavor than this effort, especially for the price tag. This is not your $10.00 Pinot Grigio sipper you find in the value stacks at your local store, but a wine that has an infinite amount of superlatives that will leave you wanting another sip to figure out all that is happening on the palate. I’ll clue you in. Here’s a viscous wonder without cumbersome oak.  The bouquet and entry reveals a menagerie of candied stone fruits, ripe pineapple, citrus peel and floral white blossoms. The mid-palate and finish reveal an almond theme that hinges on fresh marzipan fused with a subtle smoky note.  The acidity on the back end cuts through the layers of cream to make your lips smack for another sip.

2004 Vestini Campagnano Pallagrello Nero-$59
The estate’s red version captures iodine and minerals from the volcanic soil that it’s grown in. This mineral edge is perfectly integrated with bombastic blackberry and boysenberry fruit, but don’t think ultra jammy Zinfandel that weighs in at 15.9% alc., but a wine with restraint of 13.5 to 13.9% alc. Like its white counterpart, this high-altitude growing grape has balanced acidity and a similar profile to the more famous Campanian cultivar, Aglianico, with a backdrop of pepper, licorice and worked leather that is encased in a healthy dose of natural tannins. These tannins are fine grained, like Bordeaux’s Cabernet based blends, and make for a wonderful alternative to let hibernate in your cellar. The 2004 effort is a baby, but if you’re driven by curiosity to try, then please decant for two hours.  The day of this trade event, the winery representative poured me a 1999 vintage from the estate that he had hiding under the table. Man o’ man, talk about a heady and remarkable nose of violets that echoed a similar fruit spectrum mentioned above with an amazing dry finish that reminded me of a classy Bordeaux or Barolo of pedigree.

Yet again I return to why I love White Burgundy. I think it comes down to the following five factors:

1. Chardonnay has an amazing diversity of expression from steely Chablis to creamy Meursault.
2. There are great examples at all price points (not always true with domestic Chardonnay).
3. With age, white Burgundies develop complexity and nuttiness, but still keep an edge of acidity. They also have longer life spans than domestic Chardonnay.
4. There is so much to learn about growing sites and vineyards - from villages, lieu dit, and Premier Cru, to the ultimate Grand Cru vineyards. Thanks to Burghound’s Quarterly Newsletter, I can learn more about these properties and compare my tasting notes with those of a true specialist.
5. French vineyard names are fun to pronounce and sometimes have amusing translations such as Chablis “Les Grenouilles” (frogs), St Aubin Les Murgers des “Dents de Chien” 1er Cru (dog’s teeth), Meursault “Sous le Dos d'Ane” 1er Cru (below the donkey’s back).

Recently I enjoyed a bottle of 2005 Charles Audoin Marsannay Blanc which I thought was a great every day drinking wine, and would rate it 90 points. It had a briny nose and a palate displaying ripe apple, citrus and minerals. As the wine warmed in the glass, it displayed subtle notes of nectarine, vanilla and toast (pain grillé). The relatively weighty body and texture contributed to its medium plus length. This selection made me take a second look at Marsannay, a new and as yet, little-known appellation (which also sources fruit for rouge and rose versions).

I first heard about the greatness of the 2004 vintage in Piedmont a few years ago when Italian importers began bringing in the fresh and crisp Arneis bottlings from the Roero hills. I was thrilled by the overall balance of fruit and acidity in these aromatic whites. This was a precursor for great things to come. The next wave of wines that I tasted, noting the overall pedigree, was the wave of Dolcettos and Barberas that were starting to hit the market. Perfetto!! Both un-oaked, entry level versions to the single vineyard designates dressed in flashy oak have put me in a state of gastronomic wellness. In the back of my mind, I realized that there would be a treasure trove of spectacular Nebbiolo from the esteemed the villages of Barbaresco and Barolo to follow.

The Piedmont harvest in 2004 was marred by heavy winter rains. Although welcomed after the hot and dry 2003 season, there was all out concern for delayed bud break and early attacks of downy mildew in the vineyards. The summer was picture perfect, with moderate temperatures, allowing for the vine to develop normally. Then September and early October was noted by seasonally high temperatures and days of full sunshine allowing for growers to wait for the opportune time to pick at perfect ripeness.  Many veteran vintners couldn’t remember a vintage like this one since 1990 and perhaps the legendary 1964 vintage. Growers who maintained low yields were rewarded for their hard work for a vintage in which the international wine community is running out of superlatives to describe. Winemakers were enthralled by the quality, purity, balance and intensity that the vintage produced.

Fast forward to fourth quarter 2007: Vinfolio announces the first release of cru classé Nebbiolo from the village of Barbaresco. Let’s get excited here! The fleet of Barbaresos are similar to 2001, but with more generosity of fruit and finesse that you should expect from this village.  2004 Barolo from all reports is lining up to be a classic, and must have for the serious collector and budding collector wanting to expand into a classic age-worthy category. The vintage showcases wines with loads of ripe fruit that is both concentrated and floral. Tannin levels are more present compared to let’s say the noted 2000 vintage; however, they are rounder and more finely integrated as a finish product. Vinfolio will start posting pre-arrival confirmations on the 2004 Barolo releases starting in early winter and spring 2008. Please e-mail me at neil@vinfolio.com, if you want to receive e-mail alerts on incoming 2004 selections.

2004 Barbaresco and Barolo should be on every collector’s priority list. For the Piedmont enthusiast or even newbie, I highly recommend purchasing more entry level 2004 Langhe Nebbiolo, Dolcetto and Barberas to drink now. Collectors should note that the overall quality of Barbaresco and Barolo will allow for cellar age-ability for at least 7 to 15 years of time.

Please note a few highlights of the vintage that have posted in our wine store in the last month:

2004 Domenico Clerico ‘Langhe Arte’    $44.00-750ml, (AG 90)
A 90% Nebbiolo and 10% Barbera assemblage all dressed up for the party! A modern interpretation seasoned new French barrique. The fruit is sourced from noted Monforte d’Alba crus of Ginestra, Pajana and Bussia. A great cellar buy if you want to keep in budget!

2004 Ronchi Barbaresco            $37.00-750ml & $82.00-1.5L (VF 92)
This is too tempting to drink now at a steal of a price! Although an infant, this wine is already silky and voluptuous out of the gate. You’ll want to supersize to the magnum format.

2004 Ceretto Barbaresco ‘Bricco Asili’    $119.00- 750ml & $245.00-1.5L (WA 94)
Bricco Asili was the first Ceretto holding that dates back to 1973. 2004 has enough violets on the nose to make your head spin in amazement!

2004 Vietti Barbaresco ‘Masseria’        $84.95-750ml & $185.00-1.5L (WA 93)
Castiglione Falletto powerhouse Vietti produces a barrage of great wines, however the ‘Masseria’ multiple personality of elegance on the nose paired with intensity of espresso, sweet pipe tobacco and black licorice makes for an intriguing acquisition!

Unquestionably, one of rarest and most collectible wines in the world made by the Godfather of Burgundy!

We buy and sell wine everyday.  Today, my eyes turn to two of the most cherished wines in the world: 1993 Jayer, Henri - Vosne-Romanee Cros Parantoux 1er Cru and 1999 Jayer, Henri - Vosne-Romanee Cros Parantoux Reserve 1er Cru.  Henri passed away last year, but his legend and influence on Burgundy and the wine world is infinite.

I have tasted and spoken with Allen Meadows, of Burghound.com, about the merits of the 1993 and 1999 Red Burgundy vintages and it is clear that the finest wines may equal the 1978s.  To really understand Cros Parantoux and the infamous and revered Henri Jayer, I turn to Allen: 

Cros Parantoux is a premier cru situated in Vosne-Romanee and is now one of the most celebrated wines in all of Burgundy….Cros Parantoux is on almost everyone’s very short list of premier crus that merit elevation to grand cru status.  It is a small vineyard, measuring only 1.01 hectares (2.5 acres) and there are only two owners…

 

Cros Parantoux sits directly above Richebourg and its northern sub-climat of Verroilles ou Richebourg along its entire eastern exposure...It is a relatively cool site with very shallow and rocky limestone-rich soil that produces, like Richebourg, exceptionally long-lived wines, partially because the coolness of the site permits the grapes to retain their acidity and partially because of the rocky soil, which also tends to promote longevity…The meager soil and cool climate does not naturally foster high yields, which is one reason that the wines of Cros Parantoux almost always have good concentration…

 

In 1951, Jayer acquired his first parcel of vines in Cros Parantoux from a M. Roblot.  Jayer explained in great detail how difficult it was to clear the brush and artichokes away, saying “the rocks were huge, the size of cars and we had to dynamite them.  I used over 400 charges to soften up the soil enough to plant vines… But it wasn’t until 1976 when Jayer bottled the entire harvest himself even though he did not commercialize it under his own label.  The first vintage where he bottled everything for his own account was 1978.

 

Jayer had two children, both girls, and neither was interested in following in his footsteps so in 1986, he took on his nephew by marriage, Emmanuel Rouget, to help him out and Rouget released his first wine the same year.  Jayer slowly gave up more and more of his vineyards to Rouget but remained involved in all aspects of the vineyard and vinification work for both his own and his nephew’s account.  Jayer continued this practice until 1995 when he officially retired and it was his last vintage where he released all of his wines.  However, he retained 40% of his Cros Parantoux vines(28.3 ares) and leased the rest to Rouget.  In 1996 came the first release of a Cros Parantoux labeled as a Reserve, which according to Jayer didn’t signify any change in style or vinification, only that this was something he had done for himself.  There have been a series of Reserve Cros’ between 1996 and 2001 and in 2002, 100% of the Cros went to Rouget.

 

I agree with Jayer’s description of Cros Parantoux as he calls it a “true vin de garde capable of 50 years of evolution with no problem. There is power and elegance in a good Cros with an underlying minerality and racy acidity.  The upslope position and cool microclimate preserves the acidity and makes for a complete wine.  Everyone finds something to like in Cros Parantoux but it really requires 10 to 15 years for it to be at its best.”  

 

(Allen Meadows, “Progress Report: A Complete History of Cros Parantoux,” Burghound Issue #13, Q1 2004)

 

1993 Jayer, Henri - Vosne-Romanee Cros Parantoux 1er Cru        $2,995
BH 95        Drink 2008-2025
From the May, 2003 tasting: Massively constructed and still incredibly primary in every respect with its blend of spice and black pinot fruit plus a pungent, penetrating mineral firmness and vibrant acidity. The tannins coat the mouth yet they are ripe and the wine exudes balance and harmony. While this is stunning now, it is nowhere close to ready. Check back in 2008 though I suspect the 93 Cros will still be several years short of its peak as this has 30 years of aging potential. One of the truly great wines of the vintage.

1999 Jayer, Henri - Vosne-Romanee Cros Parantoux Reserve 1er Cru    $3,495
BH 93        Drink 2011+
An expressive, ripe and elegant nose of Vosne style spice, moderate oak and a mix of earth, minerals and violets leads to rich, round and impressively precise flavors that deliver serious punch and excellent depth. I very much like the overall sense of harmony and fine balance here. If I were nit picking, and I am, there is just a bit more oak-influence on the mid-palate than I might otherwise prefer (and more than the Rouget version) but this is a niggle and not a serious issue. This should age well and Jayer lovers will definitely be pleased.

In a hot vintage like 2003, people tend to assume wines aren’t going to be agreeable, balanced and that wines might be disjointed or as hot as the respective summer. The ripeness achieved in such vintages can certainly be overt and challenging when handled by those lacking deftness in their winemaking, but skilled producers can almost always achieve success.

Freakish weather makes for atypically-styled wines, but use this to your advantage. The 2003 Barolos and Barbarescos have rich fruit and can be drunk very early in their lives, while vintages such as 1996, 1999, 2001 are babies and require years of beauty sleep. There is plenty of wonderful Nebbiolo fruit to be had in 2003 and particularly with the more traditional producers, don’t be afraid to lay some of these bottles down either. Vinfolio’s buying team is tasting through offerings from the vintage and bringing in only the finest examples. I’ve tried the Damilano, Spinetta, Scavino, Vietti, and Cavallotto wines so far, and they are noteworthy in their quality. If you want one of the best, for safe aging, or a sexy near-term Nebbiolo experience, the Giacomo Conterno Cascina Francia (94 WA) $89 shouldn’t be missed. This wine is a stunner.

Our most recent wine journey take us to one of the most noted wine growing regions in Catalonia, the Montsant D.O. (denominación de origen) located in the hinterland of Tarragona. Before 2001, the D.O. was referred to as Tarragona-Falset and today there are over 40 wineries that reside in this spectacularly hilly country interlaced with grape vine, almonds, olive groves and pine trees. Montsant forms a horseshoe around its more famous neighbor the Priorat. A similar grape mix is found here dominated by Cariñena (Carignan) and Garnacha (Grenache). The major geological difference between the Montsant and Priorat lies in the soil structure. Montsant has more silica, iron and clay, whereas Priorat is dominated by pure slate and schist. Furthermore, Montsant sits at a lower elevation than the Priorat with less rugged and terraced vineyards allowing for easier development of vineyards. Though Priorat is garnering a lot of press and may arguably produce the finest wines in all of España, certain Montsant producers are poised to take on some of the spotlight at more affordable prices.

Cellars Can Blau is a case in point. Started in 2003 as a partnership project between Spanish import giant Jorge Ordoñez and Ángel Gil of Juan Gil winery in Jumilla, Can Blau takes on a New-World approach with the hiring of Australian winemaker Sarah Morris. Ordoñez and Gil’s ‘Oro Wine’ project has worked the Aussie angle before hiring Chris Ringland with the Alto Moncayo project in Campo de Borjo and El Nido in Jumilla. Based on initial  reviews (IWC 92/ WA 92), The Can Blau label is heading to top of the record charts in the same fashion as Alto Moncayo and El Nido labels. Take top quality native old-vines, picked at low yields tempered with state-of-the-art modern equipment, and you have hedonism in a glass.

I was extremely stoked to see the release of the 2004 Mas De Can Blau Tinto ($39) on the Vinfolio site (www.vinfolio.com). It’s the older vine rendition of two wines from this house which I had to the opportunity to sample when Jorge Ordoñez came through the Bay Area about a year ago. I still can remember the night I tried the wine and was floored by the sexiness and opulence that is not usually associated with the Montsant. A blend of 35% Cariñena, 35% Syrah and 30% Garnacha makes for a compelling argument that the best examples of ‘Rhone’ blends are being made in Catalonia. Fact: ‘Greater Catalonia’ stretched all the way into the Languedoc and Southern Rhone into the late 1300s. Fans of Aussie “Sheeeraz” and California Central Coast Syrah should add this wine to their must have list. Its full throttled black fruit explosion doesn’t mean that there isn’t any Old-World sauvage character in the glass. This effort still has all the great herbs and mineral accents that you expect from this region, but brace yourself for deep saturation and extraction. This is not your grandfather’s old-school Rioja! Mas De Can Blau is definitely more (mas) with a core of kirsch and blackberry compote laced with cola and tar notes. The twenty months of French oak ageing is apparent but in check with tannin and acid. This wine can age for a good five years, but all too tempting to enjoy now with a solid 90 minutes of decanting time. This wine deserves carnage like meat on the grill. Perhaps a spicy dry rub Rib-Eye with garlic mashed potatoes and braised collard greens.

What with the stellar 2001s and 2004s that stand to benefit from cellar aging and the disappointing 2002s, I would like to offer the argument that the more value-oriented of the 2003 Piedmontese wines most greatly reward current drinking. I recently enjoyed Aldo Conterno’s 2003 Langhe Quartetto ($26) to unwind after watching a tension-inducing vampire movie. A novel blend composed mostly of the traditional Nebbiolo with 25% each of Cab and Merlot, and a splash of Barbera with each vinified individually, this medium-bodied wine was a striking blood red at the core with a slightly watery rim. I initially perceived an aroma eerily reminiscent of the dark, juicy, warm plums picked from my childhood backyard, followed by sleek black leather and blood-dampened earth. Ok, perhaps the movie was still on my mind. Easily quaffable and simply pleasurable, the Quartetto displayed a notably modern winemaking style without disregard for its venerable terroir. It was also enjoyable the following evening with braised short ribs.

I have a love affair with Aglianico [ah-LYAH-nee-koh]! Maybe it’s my nonconformist attitude of branching out to uncommon growing regions that deserve the spotlight. Perhaps it’s that I need more variety in my life. For Italian wine enthusiasts, Agliancio might be familiar, but usually mentioned as an afterthought to Sangiovese from Tuscany and Nebbiolo from Piedmont. Well, the 'Aglianco Renaissance' is alive and well, establishing itself as the banner grape varietal of Southern Italy. Campania and Basilicata lay claim to the finest Aglianico with new plantings popping up in neighboring Puglia and even in Sicily. The grape is believed to have originated in Greece, but it was the Phoenicians who were responsible for its arrival, first into Basilicata and then later migrating into Campania. The name is derived from 'Ellenico,' one of the Italian adjectives to indicate of 'Greek' origin.  Aglianico was famous in the ancient world for the production of 'Falernum,' an ancient wine that was highly prized by Roman nobility and the literary community.

The vine was almost wiped out from both phylloxera and a poor economy in the late 19th and early 20th century with only a band of a few family estates willing to tend to the ancient vine.  The house of Mastroberardino based in Avellino is credited for the revival of the varietal in the late 1960s. Back then and even today, the finest Campanian Aglianico is sourced from the village of Taurasi, the only D.O.C.G. village classification in the region. The wines of Taurasi are long lived and have similar ageing qualities to Piedmont’s Nebbiolo found in the esteemed villages of Barolo and Barbaresco. I highly recommend Italian collectors to make room for some Taurasi in their cellars. These wines can age gracefully for 5 to 15 years. I have tasted well-aged Taurasi and it’s memorable for its silky layers of dried dark fruits, leather and tobacco.

Today, Aglianco production has doubled from the late 1970s and some very impressive and approachable versions may be found in the D.O.C.s of Avellino, Irpinia and Taburno with affordable price tags to boot. Genetically, Aglianico has a high tannin and acid component, which makes for a great cellar-worthy wine, comparable to great Nebbiolo. Younger vine versions are made in a softer style emphasizing primary fruit. Beyond its chemical makeup, Aglianco on the palate opens up to primary fruits of blackberries, black cherries, black currants followed by nuances of smoky tar, tobacco, licorice and coffee-espresso notes. Aglianico deserves slow roasted or braised meat dishes. However, a grilled burger or favorite steak preparation can pair marvelously with a younger, fruitier rendition.

Vinfolio is proud to feature three 100% Aglianicos and five Aglianico inspired blends from Campania, geared more for the cellar. The 2001s listed on the site can be enjoyed now, but I do recommend aerating for a solid 90 minutes in a decanter. Leg of Lamb anyone? Below are four of my highest recommendations!

2001 Caggiano - Taurasi Vigna Macchia dei Goti ($39, IWC 94)
Fasten your seat belts for an Aglianico tour de force … vigorous but elegant. Taurasi at an attractive price!

2003 Masseria Felicia  - Falerno del Massico ($62)
The Falerno del Massico D.O.C. is north of Naples, not far from Vesuvius. Old-vine Aglianico (80%) and Piedirosso (20%) are grown on volcanic ash. Maybe one of the most profuse violent blossom noses I've come across of any Italian wine.

2003 Galardi - Terra di Lavoro ($115)
The Galardi estate is based in the high volcanic hills of Sessa Aurunca in northwestern Campania, north of Naples. 80% of the blend is Aglianico rounded out with native Piedirossso and Cabernet Sauvignon. The Gambero Rosso guide honored the 2003 with the highest rating of three glasses. Worth every penny!

2001 Terredora di Paolo – Taurasi ($41, Vinfolio 92)
Campania’s largest producer and vineyard owner made an ethereal Taurasi in 2001. An extremely balanced wine in its youth! The featured offering goes beyond appellation regulations by ageing the wine for 30 months in French barrique and another 18 months in bottle.

I had some old friends over on Wednesday for a tasting of several bottles of Brunello di Montalcino, a region that has lately been of great interest to this particular group. We sampled (2) 2001s, (2) 1997s and a 100% Sangiovese Super-Tuscan as a ringer – all tasted blind.

The 1997s stole the show. I’ve recently been tasting examples from this intriguing and controversial vintage. For such a well-established region, it seems there’s no consensus on the overall quality of the 1997s – while one reviewer heralds the vintage as one of the best ever, another declares it lackluster. When opinions are across the board, there’s only one way to find out.

The two 1997s we tried were the Greppone Mazzi by Ruffino ($69) and the Argiano ($75). Both were excellent, but rather different. The Greppone Mazzi was the overall favorite of the evening, since it was the most mature, complex and expressive. Dark red and black fruits as well as beautiful earthy mushroom and tobacco notes is what this wine’s all about. Full-bodied, balanced and long, it has the stuffing to last at least 5 more years. The Argiano was a close second by a hair. I think it’s a slightly better wine overall, but is not quite at its peak. It has great concentration, impeccable balance and is truly a complete wine with an enormously bright future. Because it’s still on the upswing of its evolution, it didn’t flaunt as much plumage as the Greppone Mazzi, but will out-class it in time. It’s funny. One reviewer scored the Argiano at 96 points, another at 87. I now know with whom my opinion aligns.

In the modern era of wine marketing, much importance has been placed on the virtues of a particular grape and the growing region where it best performs. However, it seems that soil is rarely mentioned in the same breadth, but has as much to do with the success in what the consumer and the wine trade deem as a quality wine. The concept of terroir weighs heavy on the geological premise that winemaking starts below the ground. Not to sound brash, but our darling varietals of the world are merely ‘transformers’ and that the wine industry might want to categorize wines not by varietals or regions, but by soil composition. Could you imagine if your local wine shop had signs pointing to the ‘limestone’, ‘tuffa’, ‘clay-loam’ or ‘schist’ sections of the store? I don’t think so, but it would be a great way to educate the public on the importance of terroir (a sense of place).

Many people whose palate preferences lean towards a dry French white wine, like a Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre or a 100% Chardonnay Méthode Champenoise from Avize in Champagne, reflect their preference for a limestone-chalk based soil rather than the primary fruit components of these classic, but completely different varietals. Certain enthusiasts and serious tasters have a grasp of the major soil types and what effect they have on the wine. The first ones that come to mind are calcareous, clay-loam, sand and gravel based. There’s a ton more, but it’s schist that gets me all worked up! Yes SCHIST, coarsely metamorphic rock that was born at great depths some 300 million years ago, and brought to the surface in the mid-Tertiary by uplift of the earth’s crust. The deep-seated molten masses were intruded into an overlying crust of ancient lavas and volcanic ash. The heat and pressure of the intrusions cooked and squeezed (metamorphosed) the lavas and ash into the foliated rock called schist. These formations have been referred to ‘old rocks’ in the same family of granite and slate, but schist has experienced the most stress and can be intermixed with deeply weather granite. Schist can come in different shades based on the metamorphosis activity. Schist is often finely interwoven with quartz and feldspar. It’s quite foliated, meaning a flaky texture that can easily fracture into flakes or jagged slabs. The word ‘schist’ in Greek means ‘to split.’

Schist based soils are ideal for grape growing due to its heat retentive nature and high levels of magnesium and potassium. Vigorous vines thrive in a medium of schist by slithering through the fractured rock in search of moisture. In my opinion it’s the ‘old-vine’ cultivar and its direct correlation to the schist based soils that make for some of the finest wines in the world. With much tasting under my belt, I can often pick out a schist influence on a wine’s nose and finish. A mouth watering reaction usually occurs, very similar to tasting a wine in which the grape was grown on limestone. The difference is the pronounced mineral quality throughout the mid-palate with a bone searing dryness that can linger for three to five minutes depending on the age of the vine.

Historical growing regions with high level of schist are the found throughout some of the classic growing regions of Western Europe including …

Spain- Priorat & Montsant (Catalonia), Valdeorras & Ribiero (Galicia)
France- Beaujolais, Alsace, Cote Rotie (Northern Rhone), Collioure, Banyul & Maury (Côtes du Roussillon)
Germany- Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
Portugal (Northern)- Douro Valley & Vinho Verde

The most compelling wines are made from extremely old-vines averaging anywhere from 50 to 100 years old in which the schist has made for an ideal medium for these vines to produce grapes of immense quality, thus a finished product that is completely unique and shines above any of it’s ‘New-World’ competition. Certain white varietals and red varietals, both dry and sweet, are associated with schist. More than likely it was the Romans who were the first to work these lands and plant the cultivars that still exist today. In Spain, Grenache (Garnacha) and Carignane (Cariñena) take center stage in the ‘licorella’ soils of the Priorat and Montsant.  The best examples are blends dominated by these two truly Spanish varietals with a dollop of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Tempranillo for added weight and polish. Heading to the northwest part of the country it’s the ancient white grape of Godello that is the ideal suitor for schist in the Valdeorras and Ribiero. Some experts argue that Godello is a mutation of Riesling. The largest schist mining operation in the world is based in Valdeorras. Moving onto France, the noted cru villages of Fleurie, Moulin-a-Vent and Morgon have schist sub-structure in which old-vine Gamay Noir thrives. The mighty Syrah owes its mineral laced nose and finish to the adulating slopes of the Cotie Rotie in the Northern Rhone. Down in the Roussillon, Grenache Noir reigns supreme in the villages of Collioure, Banyuls and Maury, making full-bodied dry and hedonistic sweet versions. Schist makes its way along the Vosges Mountains in Northern Alsace in which Riesling is the beneficiary growing in what locals call ‘Steige.’ Riesling’s connection with schist influenced soils is evident in the middle section of the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, where certain ancient plantings are supported by a unique red slate, similar in composition to some of the terraced vineyards found in Galicia, Spain. Historical data suggests that both of these region’s original plantings were established by the Romans. Finally, in the Douro Valley, Port producers plant new vines by setting off explosive charges to loosen up the schist formations. Tempranillo, Touriga Nacional and several other traditional Port varietals can only exist in this extreme environment due to the schist formations.

I encourage wine lovers to plan their next theme tasting not as varietal based, but schist based and taste the underlying mineral theme and complex layered structure of these wines. For the collector, schist based viticulture offers tremendous returns. Old-vine material from the regions mentioned above can age gracefully for many years to come specifically with Grenache and Carignane based wines of the Priorat, Syrah from Cote Rotie, and Grand Cru Rieslings from Alsace and Germany’s Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. For the sweet nectar, look no further than a great Porto and France’s Vin Doux Naturel category of Banyuls and Maury made from 100% Grenache Noir. Chocolate anyone? It’s all about the schist baby! Who knew that a metamorphic occurrence could taste so amazing?!?

Below is a sampling of schist influenced wines that you may find on the Vinfolio site. Select a mixed lot for you next theme party!

•    2004 Vall Llach, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain                                        $75, Wine Advocate 93
•    2003 Lo Givot- Pont, Priorat, Catalonia, Spain                                 $50, Vinfolio 92
•    2005 Guy Breton Morgon V.V., Beaujolais, France                             $24, Tanzer (IWC) 91
•    2005 Pierre Gaillard ‘Cote Rozier’, Cote Rotie, Rhone, France           $80, Vinfolio 93
•    2004 Rostaing ‘Cote Blonde’, Cote Rotie, Rhone, France                    $99, Tanzer (IWC) 94
•    2002 Calvet-Thunevin ‘Hugo’,Cotes du Roussillon Villages, France     $36, Vinfolio 92
•    2004 Domaine Ostertag Riesling ‘Fronholz’, Alsance, France              $29, Tanzer (IWC) 91
•    2005 Selbach-Oster Riesling ‘Zeltinger Sonnenuhr’, Germany             $22
•    1997 Fonseca Vintage Port, Douro Valley, Portugal                            $65, Wine Advocate 93

Here at Vinfolio we understandably possess great enthusiasm for scarce, legend-inspiring vinous jewels with regal reputations. I like to reserve at least a little room in my heart and cellar for under-appreciated drinking pleasures, such as those from the Cru du Beaujolais. While most are familiar with the mass-produced carbonically macerated juice typically associated with the region, quality Beaujolais is somewhat less recognized. Often bearing more resemblance to the noble Pinot Noir grown further North in Burgundy than their Gamay siblings, these wines are immediately enjoyable upon release, but given up to a decade of cellaring will reward with surprising complexity and character.

Currently Vinfolio offers for sale the old vine 2005 Guy Breton bottling from Morgon (IWC 91), arguably the most age-worthy of the 10 Beaujolais Crus. With 2005, a vintage of towering quality in Burgundy with correspondingly sky-high tariffs for most appellations, Beaujolais wines have quietly maintained their value-oriented pricing. I challenge anyone to think of another $24 bottle of wine with such enormous upside.

2005 Monastero Suore Cistercensi – Coenobium, Latium White $15

An old-world wonder with a blessing from the Cistercian order graces our site in the form of a Latium Bianco. Usually Latium wines are lack-luster with light quaffers from the Frascati D.O.C leading the pack. However, I felt compelled to highlight an amazing white for the price with an intriguing bio. ‘Coenobium’ denotes a community of monks, although it’s a duo of sisters from a Cistercian monastery in Vitorchiano north of Rome that oversees the production of this heavenly white. Consulting and technical assistance came from Giampero Bea, noted Umbrian vintner and son of the famed Paolo Bea in the Montefalco district.

I noted how this wine has been well-received locally in the San Francisco Bay area with some of the finer cafés and Italian themed restaurants serving the 2005 by the glass. This is not a gimmick wine, just good old fashion winemaking with no bells and whistles. A somewhat traditional Latium blend of Verdicchio, Trebbiano and Grechetto, the ‘Coenobium’ is more viscous on the palate than a Frascati (Malvasia-Trebbiano blend) and more depth on the finish than neighboring Orvieto at the mid-value price point of $15.00! It’s my favorite, bankers white for under $20.00 on the Vinfolio site right now. The ‘Coenobium’ or ‘Nun’s Wine’ is the only wine produced on the property. Giampero Bea’s assistance has paid off tremendously encouraging the monastery to move towards 100% organic growing practices. The grapes are fermented in stainless steel tanks, but for added texture, grape skins are left on for an extended soak and the final product is unfined and unfiltered.
 
Presently, the 2005 release is hitting its stride on the palate; all systems are a go, a divine synergy of the parts. The Trebbiano and Verdicchio offer heady, honeysuckle-floral notes, piquant-citrus, herbs and the nerve of tangy citrus fruits. The Grechetto, which is also prized in Umbria’s Orvieto district fills out the back end with viscous weight, streaks of minerals and succulent honeydew melon.  I recommend drinking this balanced and layered white just above cellar temperature. Avoid over chilling to the ‘numb stage’! The Coenobium would pair heavenly with a fall menu of braised endive, fristo misto and whole roasted snapper stuffed with fresh herbs and fennel.

The ‘Sisters’ would probably say: ”Alzare un bicchiere e piacere!” (Raise a glass and enjoy!)

For more suggestions on Italian wines, refer to Laura's review of The Golden Glass tasting event as well as my varietal profile of Montefalco’s Mighty Sagrantino.

One of Burgundy’s best values for elegant, pure, and precise whites is Chardonnay from the village of St. Aubin.  I often think of these wines as the little brother to a Puligny or Chassagne A.C. (village wine), as they are a bit lighter and more graceful, but still have a pronounced goût de terroir (translates as “taste of the earth” specifically referring to the terroir).  

About St. Aubin
A ten minute drive from southwest Meursault lies the village of St. Aubin.  Literally rubbing the shoulders of Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet to the east, the best white wines come from the vineyards located on the steep slopes in the stretch between St. Aubin and the neighboring village of Gamay.  Here the soil is nearly pure limestone and the white wines have a pronounced almond character.  Farther down the slope, below the village of Gamay, the soil is richer, with more marl, creating fruitier white wines with a scent of hazelnut especially from vineyards such as En Remilly (borders the grand cru Le Montrachet) and Murgers des Dents de Chien (roughly, the big dog-toothed rocks) that abut Puligny-Montrachet.

About Domaine Marc Colin
Marc is a fourth generation winemaker who is best known for his Montrachet and Batard-Montrachet.  He is now working closely with talented sons Pierre-Yves, Damian, and Joseph.  Damian and Joseph Colin are in charge of the winemaking where Damian oversees the vinification and Joseph the viticulture. They've ended the use of all weed killers and now plow exclusively. Similarly, they told Allen Meadows that they're also looking for more freshness and vivacity, and to the extent possible, to emphasize minerality in the wines. To accomplish this they now use no enzymes or commercialized yeasts and have stopped all but a small amount of lees stirring. Moreover, they absolutely wanted to avoid any sense of heaviness. They're also dropping the toast levels of the barrels.

I tasted these wines semi-blind (I knew they were both Marc Colin St. Aubins but I didn’t know which vineyard I was tasting).

2005 Marc Colin St. Aubin En Remilly 1er Cru    $33    
Nice breed on first impression, like a junior Puligny.  Excellent purity and very precise.  Lovely white Burgundy character with hazelnut, lemon verbena, quince, and white floral top notes.  Finish shows great tension, minerality, and length.  You can easily see why this wine made Allen Meadow’s best buy list and was rated “Outstanding! Top value.”

2005 Marc Colin St. Aubin Les Murgers des Dents de Chien 1er Cru    $33    
Less definition but more exotic.  This is a riper wine with more stone fruits and melon while showing excellent minerality.  The finish is richer and more blowsy.  For me, I prefer the definition in the En Remilly but I really like the nose on this wine too, especially as it opened up.

I’m in a ‘Mencía’ state of mind when promoting Spain’s Bierzo district on the outer frontier of Castile-Leon in northwestern Spain. Mencía is the native and flagship varietal of the Bierzo D.O.  It is a category that both enthusiast and collector need to consider when purchasing Spanish wines from more familiar and favorite outposts such as Rioja, Priorat and Ribera del Duero. Even though classified as part of the ‘Old Castile Empire’, Bierzo and its black skinned wonder, Mencía, have more in common historically and geographically to Galicia, a region more known for aromatic and light-bodied whites than for hearty reds. Mencía’s history is somewhat unknown based on inconclusive DNA evidence. However, certain experts state that the grape is a genetic cousin of French Cabernet Franc, whose origins stem from importation during the Roman occupation or afterwards with the pilgrimage of French Christians in the 1400s.

Fast forward to the modern day, to what I refer to the ‘Bierzo Renaissance’, when a few wine mavericks saw the potential of Mencía grown on the steep hillsides where old-vines struggle in the iron rich and schist based soil. Noted winemaker Alvaro Palacios’s mission to find the perfect place to make great wine lead him first to the Priorat (L’Ermita & Finca Dofi) in the late 1980s and then to Bierzo in the early 1990s. Alvaro teamed up with his nephew Ricardo Perez (also Bordeaux trained) to realize a project based upon their shared belief in Bierzo’s potential. Working with some of the old timers, Palacios and Perez’s research suggested concentrating their efforts in the small village of Corullón. Traveling through these hillside parcels reveals similar visuals and growing conditions to cru vineyards in Piedmont’s Langhe hills and Burgundy’s Côte d’Or. Their project ‘Descendientes de José Palacios’ makes a statement for grand cru rated Mencía! The remarkable 2001 vintage marked the release of the oldest vine blocks in single-vineyard formats. Seven wines are made in total assembled from vines that average 60 to 100 years old from the highest peaks on the western edge of Corullón. They include: Pétalos del Bierzo- the youngest vines, Corullón- an assemblage of old-vine parcels, and then five extraordinary single-vineyards (San Martin, Fontelas, Moncerbal, Las Lamas and La Faraona). It’s rare to find inventory of some of the vineyard designates for retail sale, but Vinfolio presently has four bottlings on the site from the stellar 2004 vintage. The ‘Corullón’ ($47, WA 91) is a multi parcel blend that is the most accessible, but still needs a few years to mellow out. The lineup is rounded out with three of the five single-vineyard designates including ‘La Faraona’ ($245), ‘Moncerbal’ ($126, IWC 94) and ‘San Martin’ ($84). The vineyard designates are extremely rare with total production levels averaging a mere 150 cases based on vintage yield.

In a nutshell, these bottlings are subtly different, but the overriding taste profile is of old-vine Mencía: a dark crimson to opaque purple hue with a fruit spectrum of pomegranate, cranberry, cassis, blueberries, black raspberry and black cherry on the mid-palate. Nuances of herbs reminiscent of Cabernet Franc on the nose and brooding iron laden minerals are prevalent throughout the palate experience. The varietal’s naturally high tannin composition makes the wine an ideal cellar candidate. 2004 Bierzo is “a must” to expand your Spanish buying strategy. Any fan of the Priorat and Ribera del Duero will get warm and fuzzy over the ‘Descendientes de José Palacios’ lineup based on the passion of its visionaries to coax the most out of these old-vines and the results in the glass have wooed the international wine press and insiders alike. The world-class ‘Wine World’ is getting too small not to consider odd-ball gems like Bierzo’s Mencía. Go ahead and think outside of the box. You will not be disappointed!

We at Vinfolio find ourselves talking about our wine experiences quite often, and one question returns to me...why don't people drink more Champagne? By and large people only buy Champagne for special occasions, as if our day to day lives aren't worth celebrating.

May I extrapolate that people have nothing to celebrate?

I have a friend whose wine collection contains of 3,000+ bottles of Champagne. His portfolio taught us both a lot about Champagne’s versatility. Over the course of two years we drank Champagne with everything, and I discovered a strong affection for the selections from Egly-Ouriet. Vinfolio currently features their NV Brut Les Vignes de Vrigny 1er Cru ($54) and NV Brut Tradition ($54).

Egly-Ouriet’s wines hail from the region of Ambonnay, just Northeast of Champagne, from only 8 hectares (19 acres) of Grand Cru fruit.  It is amazing that these wines are still very affordable. His vines age from 30-50 years and sit on their yeasts for a minimum of 3 years. During the aging period, the process known as autolysis occurs where the dead yeast cells (or lees) from the secondary fermentation release complex flavor compounds in the wine creating desirable toasty, yeasty, biscuit-like flavors. These flavors are what define the rich style and subtlety of my favorite bubbles. And what’s even more— Egly-Ouriet wines are also unfiltered, a practice not the norm for Champagne.

So, I ask again, can we find something in our daily meanderings to celebrate?

With the passing of Memorial Day, the outdoor barbecue season is in full swing. Spark up the grill and let’s start grilling! Summer outdoor parties demand food friendly wines such as crisp light-bodied whites, savory rosés and hearty, but fruity new-world reds. However, don’t forget one of the most versatile categories, Champagne. As a nation, we tend to think of the precious ‘Méthode Champenoise’ for sacred ceremonies, milestone celebrations and exclusive dinner parties, but there is no better time to experience small production Champagne. The wines from this band of family growers are now coming to the states in record numbers.

Sure you can spring for a "Grande Marque" like Cristal or Dom Perignon, but it can set you back a few bucks. Labels aren’t everything when you’re hosting friends and family for a summer gathering. Our site consistently features older vintages of these luxury cuvées and sometimes in larger formats. However, don’t overlook the savvy deals found in the ‘Single-Grower’ category. In most cases, these estates have been family owned for a few centuries and historically have sold top rated premier and grand cru grapes to the larger luxury houses. Today, many of these houses are featured by the glass at some of the most touted restaurants and cafés in America. More often than not, these unsung wonders retail between $35.00 and $75.00. You’re not paying for a commercial brand here, but what’s in the bottle. In more instances than not, these houses stress an assemblage of highly rated premier and grand cru rated fruit, which is typically estate owned.

Browse through the site and you will find unknown gems like Chartogne-Taillet, Egly-Ouriet, Jean Vesselle, Alain Soutiran and Pierre Gimonnet to name a few. These Champagnes don’t need a special occasion or ceremony to toast with, but just the right food to pair with to make for a memorable palate experience. Below you will find some highlights of the ‘Single-Grower’ portfolio in which the importance of terroir (sense of place) and a whole lot of complexity meet.

1999 Chartogne-Taillet “Cuvée Fiacre” Brut, Merfy        $58.00

Noted Champagne Expert and author, Tom Stevenson raves about the “Cuvée Fiacre” and I tend to agree. A blend of old-vine Chardonnay (60%) & Pinot Noir (40%) that is expressive of jasmine and orange blossom on the nose followed by plenty of mineralized pear and quince. The finish sings with a contrast of dazzling acidity and notes of talc n’ chalk. The 1999 has just started to open up to become a divine accompaniment for some cracked crab or shrimp toast.

NV Egly-Ouriet Brut Tradition, Ambonnay        $54.00

The name ‘Egly’ doesn’t conjure a glorious image, but close you eyes and taste any of their bottlings and you will instantly understand why avid Champagne lovers stock their cellars with Egly Ouriet by the case. Francis Egly is at the top of the small grower elite, with his estate located in the heart of the Côte de Noirs. He specifically owns grand cru vineyards in Bouzy, Verzenay and Ambonnay. The house has claim to some of the finest Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier in the appellation. His non-vintage is 100% grand cru sourced from 35 to 40-year-old vines, typically two thirds Pinot Noir and one third Chardonnay. The Pinot really resonates through the mouth conjuring flavor profiles of raspberries, cranberries, lime zest and roses. Not many non-vintage have this long of a finish. How about pulling out the Pork butt from the smoker for pull pork sandwiches or perhaps a spicy Cuban Pork sandwich?  

NV Jean Vesselle Rosé Saignée Brut, Bouzy         $40.00

Delphine Vesselle has taken over the helm with tremendous success, considering her father, Jean Vesselle passed away in 1996. The 300 year old estate is located in the village of Bouzy, most famous for its Pinot Noir. I personally crave for Vesselle Rosé every chance I get. A wonderful hue and pinpoint bubbles ignites the senses. A noble Champagne indeed, with the body and palate of a red wine. Wildflowers with luscious wild strawberries and cherries will please any Pinot lover. Can we get some wild salmon on the grill? Please!!

2000 Alain Soutiran Brut Millesime, Ambonnay        $39.00

Maison Alain Soutiran is another Ambonnay house that is known for Pinot Noir. One of only 17 houses granted grand cru status. Back in the 1970s, Alain Soutiran pulled the family grapes out of the huge local cooperative to begin fashioning one of the region’s full-bodied Champagnes, showcasing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from 35 to 40 year old vines. His wine is a delicate balance between refinement, power and finesse. The 2000 Grand Cru Brut struts harmonious layers of apple, quince, candied lemon and toasty yeast flavors, all leading to a super bone-dry finish. This effort would work wonders with a firm and meaty grilled white fish like Mahi Mahi or Chilean Sea Bass napped with a spicy fruit salsa or Thai spice rub.