As my husband, who hails from Southern France, put up a new awning in our back garden to provide some much needed shade from the heat, I thought it would be a perfect opportunity to open a rosé with dinner that reminded him of home. Since I had recently raided the Vinfolio wine store to stock up on my favorite summer whites and rosés, we thought we’d do a little taste test. I found a spicy crab and preserved lemon pasta dish in the recent issue of Gourmet.  It has some bold elements which call for a rosé with character and a little more weight, so we decided to test the three rosés I had brought home to see which paired best.

The wines:

2006 Mas de Gourgonnier Les Beaux de Provence Rosé ($9.94 on sale)
Discreet nose of red fruits with a hint of floral, lively acidity and a delicate dry finish. This wine was more enjoyable on its own as a refreshing pre-dinner sipper. It had a hard time holding up to the Asian spice in the sauce and showing its own throughout the dish.

2006 Mourgues du Gres Les Galets Rosés, Costieres de Nimes, VF 90 ($9.50 on sale)
Deep rose color with bright cherry and red fruits on the nose – very aromatic, more full-bodied on the palette with a smooth finish. The soft lush fruit really held up against the spice but could have used a little more acidity to cleanse the palette at the end. We liked this wine on its own and with the dish.

Bastide Blanche Bandol Rosé (currently out of stock)
Very pale rosé color; subtle hints of strawberry and red currant - a more structured wine with good acidity and a polished, dry finish. This was the best match to the dish. It had enough fruit to counterbalance the spice and great acidity that held up all the way through, bringing out the subtleties of the dish like the sweet/salty flavor of the preserved lemon. This wine was made for food and was less interesting on its own.

Given the recent popularity of rosé, I think it is worth trying out a few to get an idea of whether you want the "summer sipper" or a well-made classic like Bandol to serve with an elegant summer meal.  There are so many regions and varietals to choose from; you really need to taste what is out there.  

The key to great Corton-Charlemagne is the terroir. The Chardonnay grown here is unrivaled due to the combination of exposure and soils of white marl with high clay content over a hard limestone rock base. The result is an incredible combination of breed, class, and intensity underpinned by tremendous minerality and racy acidity. Corton-Charlemagne rivals the focused minerality of grand cru Chablis and the elegance and finesse of Chevalier-Montrachet. 

The appellation of Corton-Charlemagne encompasses three communes. It is often referred to as the Hill of Corton as the orientation and exposure affects the specific character and style:

• Ladoix-Serrigny: 6.5 ha facing primarily east and southeast, can be heavy
• Aloxe-Corton: 48.57 ha south facing which favors ripening (important in leaner years), softer and develops sooner
• Pernand-Vergelesses: 17.25 ha that swing all the way around to the west; the soil is rockier and particularly rich in flint so the wines from Pernand have more acidity and are generally more austere than those from Aloxe or Ladoix.  In particularly ripe years, the Corton-Charlemagnes from Pernand are fresher and livelier.  The wines of Bonneau du Martray, Dubreuil-Fontaine, Laleure-Piot, Rapet, and Roumier are all either largely or completely from Pernand.  All of these wines need more cellar time.

Bonneau du Martray is one of the leading estates and one of the most consistent Domaines for Corton-Charlemagne.  Bonneau du Martray also is the leading principal proprietor with 9.5 hectares.  The 2004 white burgundy vintage is a classic vintage for Burgundy lovers who love terroir. The wines are highly aromatic and show precise minerality. 

A good Corton-Charlemagne needs 8 to 10 years of ageing to show its richness and true potential.  While the 2004 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne is much too young to drink now, this wine will be highly cherished by the smart enthusiast and collector who cellar this smart buy.

2004 Bonneau du Martray - Corton-Charlemagne  $117     In Stock

BH 93               Drink 2012+

Now that this is in bottle, it's even better than I originally thought with a still reserved yet elegant nose of white flower, green apple, pear and natural spice and wet stone notes that introduce detailed, fresh and wonderfully intense flavors that are exceptionally clean and bright, culminating in a bone dry finish replete with superb minerality. This is not as dense as the '05 but the purity here is really something to see and as noted last year, it's sufficiently structured that it will need the better part of a decade to reach its apogee. Note that there was a trace of reduction on the nose and this would benefit from 30 minutes in a decanter should you elect to try one anytime soon.  -Allen Meadows, Burghound Issue 27, 3rd Quarter, 2007 

I admit to being a bit of a history geek, but don’t usually advertise that I am a war/battle site geek too.  Locales of devastation and fighting have somehow gotten worked in to most of the vacations I’ve taken in my adult life.  I also like wine, and since Alsace tempts two of my interests, it was the perfect place to spend a few days of my trip to France last November.  A region torn between frequent sparring partners France and Germany, and influenced in language and culture by both, Alsace holds a special, if not especially appreciated, place in the world of French wine.

Situated along the Rhine River, which forms its eastern boundary, Alsace has been taken and re-taken by the armies of its neighbors since the 9^th century; this has impacted its wine noticeably in the modern era.  As a region of France, Alsace was “northerly,” and produced wines of high acidity and low sugar, the better to blend with grapes from warmer southern regions that could get higher sugar levels.  As a region of Germany, Alsace was “southerly” and expected to produce wines higher in sugar to blend with the more acidic grapes grown in the north.  Because of this back-and-forth of history and war, Alsace wasn’t able to establish its own true style until much later than the rest of both France and Germany.  Though farmers by tradition, the grape growers of Alsace often had to turn to other trades and livelihoods to survive during tough times.  Vineyards, not a priority, were not kept up, which has been another factor in the inconsistency of Alsacian wine.

All is not bleak, though, as in recent decades more attention (and money) has been paid to vineyards and winemaking practices. The region gained AOC status in 1967 and is unique in that varietal names are on the labels, making the wines that much more accessible to Americans. Not only are the wines themselves inviting, but the region welcomes visitors with open arms and amazing food (if you like pork!). In the small villages lining the wine route, it’s perfectly normal to knock on winemakers’ doors; you’ll be invited right in to taste the domaine’s renditions of Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, or Muscat! These drop-in producers might not be the pinnacle of quality, but chatting in broken French/English in someone’s kitchen is always a good way to get to know an area.

I had both the formal tasting appointment and drop-in experiences during my time in Alsace. For a fun bottle to drink with lunch, I stuck to unknown names and labels, exploring whatever was on the restaurant menu. For the purpose of buying higher quality bottles to bring home, the top producers didn’t fail to impress. My favorite producers were ones with whom we had scheduled appointments: Hugel & Fils, Marcel Diess, and Ernest Burn. For lower priced but very tasty wines, I picked up a Riesling from Bott Freres and a Pinot Gris from Kuehn. Whether dry or sweet, Alsacian wines offer an easy-to-understand, deliciously refreshing alternative to more standard summer whites.

Click here to see Vinfolio's current wine selections from Alsace. 

As the weather changes, so do our tastes for wine and food. With warmer weather, we start enjoying lighter foods and pair them with generally lighter wines. A sunny day begs for crisp, bright, fresh Chablis. Whether steely, flinty, pure and un-oaked or with a touch of wood to round out the palate and add mouthfeel, Chablis is the perfect wine-pairing for oysters, shellfish, and white fish, and also goes well with salads, cheese, chicken, and other white meats.

Cool climate and limestone soils are responsible for the crisp, mineral, laser beam-like focus found in Chablis. Aged Chablis is a revelation for many, as its inherent acidity provides backbone for this Chardonnay to age gracefully. Depending on the vintage, premier crus can drink well in 4-6+ years and grand crus in 6-10+. Here are some quick vintage notes.  Recent Chablis vintages are drinking sooner due to riper vintages (global warming anyone?).

Vintage key points:
2002—terrific vintage and will age well, refreshing acidity and very solid Chablis, classic
2003—hot vintage, so almost California-like, very rich
2004—crisp, classic, and traditional
2005—ripe, high sugar levels and some botrytis makes the wines exotic, more ripe and more flesh than the 2004s
2006—another ripe vintage, lush and opulent. Good acidity and minerality

    

The 7 grand cru vineyards of Chablis face predominantly south or southwest, and are planted on steep (optimal aspect) and well-drained soils on the right bank of the river Serein. Tip: the premier crus Montee de Tonnere and Fourchaume are on the right bank and face south like the grand crus, which is critical for ripening.

Grand cru descriptions:
Blanchot: elegance, finesse, perfume, flowers, not the power and structure of others.
Bourgros or Bouguerots: least known, upfront power and generosity. Cote de Bouguerots is a steep 2ha parcel at the bottom of the vineyard farmed by hand.
Les Clos: the epitome of Chablis, power and finesse, incredible minerality and longevity.
Grenouilles: perfume in youth, minerality, elegance, the lightest of the grand crus.
Preuses: the most forward of the grand crus, approachable, round and fruity, full flavored, less subtle.
Valmur: floral, perfumed, rich and full-bodied, long lived.
Vaudesir: floral, spicy, develops nutty character, can drink in youth or with age.

Look for the top Chablis domaines:  Raveneau, Dauvissat, and William Fevre

    

 

Wow…two GREAT tastings in the span of 4 days.The first, La Paulee San Francisco – Grand Tasting, a Burgundian extravaganza, was held on Saturday, March 1st. This tasting showcased some of the top producers of Burgundy and their wines, mostly from the outstanding 2004 (white) & 2005 (red) vintages. The wines were sublime – definitely worth seeking out for your collection. The wine was poured by top sommeliers from around the country, and the food prepared by the who’s who of the San Francisco dining scene. I’ve already made my reservations for La Paulee next year when it returns to New York. I can’t recommend this tasting highly enough if you’re a fan of Burgundy wines or just want to learn more about them. My standout red of the tasting was the 2005 Domaine Jacques Frédéric Mugnier – Musigny.  It was showing beautifully in its youth, but I can only imagine what this wine will evolve into over the next 10-30 years.  My favorite white was the 2005 Domaine Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey - Corton-Charlemagne.  My tasting notes were simple – Intense, Rich, Apple, Vanilla, Lime, Mineral – awesome now…long life ahead.

                                       

 

Four days later, on Wednesday, March 5^th, Gambero Rosso put on a tasting event of current release Italian wines at the Herbst Pavilion-Ft. Mason in San Francisco. The vintages covered 2000 through 2006. I’ve tasted many wines from the Tuscany and Piedmont regions from the great 2000 and 2001 vintages, and have been more than impressed with the overall quality. I was extremely excited to taste the 2004s and see firsthand if they measured up to the hype. Short answer…THEY DID! The 2004s that I tried had incredible structure and balance, and they should not be missed!  Some of my favorites that Vinfolio currently stocks are:

2004 Felsina Berardenga - Chianti Classico Rancia Riserva, IWC 95 ($37)

2004 Felsina Berardenga - Fontalloro, IWC 94 ($44)

2004 Pupille - Saffredi, WS 97 ($109)

2004 Querciabella - Camartina,WA 95 ($87)

2004 Sette Ponti - Oreno,WS 95 ($65.95)

Burgundy has always held a certain mysterious appeal for the wine collector. The obvious reason is the region’s stunning Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, grown on Burgundy’s famous limestone soils; but the challenge of comprehending this region is also a significant draw. Factors of history, politics, geology, and micro-climate contribute to its complexity. It is apparent that these wines demand much attention in order to be fully appreciated, but that they always remain enigmatic; Burgundy might never be fully comprehensible, but something can be learned with each new tasting experience, making it an unending source of exploration.    

The history of the vine in Burgundy is quite extensive. From 900 AD until the French Revolution, vineyards were owned by the Church. During these early years, monasteries did extensive planting and established some of today’s best known vineyards. The monks helped facilitate a natural selection of vineyard sites so that plantings were done in the best possible locations. After the French Revolution, Burgundy’s vineyards were divided among the workers who had tended those vines. From that point on, the Napoleonic inheritance laws subdivided vineyards further to the point of individual rows. Because of this subdivision, négociants, merchants who buy grapes or juice from growers and make their own wines, are common. Some examples of well-known négociants include Bouchard Père et Fils, Joseph Drouhin, Faiveley, Louis Jadot, and Louis Latour.

As further testament to Burgundy’s diversity, there are nearly 100 AOC (appellation contrôlée) in the region. Burgundies are classified by origin rather than by producer (or château) as in Bordeaux. Quality levels increase as a wine’s grape source becomes more specific, ranging from Regional and Communal (Villages) locations, to Premier and Grand Cru vineyards. The Villages sites are typically located on the flatlands closer to towns, whereas the Premier Cru vineyards have more advantageous locations on the hillsides. Finally, the Grand Cru vineyards are located on the middle and upper portions of the slopes and represent the ideal combination of soil, aspect, sunshine, and drainage.  Some examples of famous Grand Cru vineyards include the Pinot Noir sites "Bonnes Mares" and "Richebourg" and acclaimed Chardonnay sites "Le Montrachet" and "Corton-Charlemagne."

Since it is common for many growers to own small parcels in specific vineyards, there exists the unique opportunity to sample the various growers’ renditions from the same vineyard.  These comparisons highlight a producer’s particular style, as well as the various growing conditions within the vineyard. Throughout the region, there is geographic, climatic, and vintage variation, all of which add exciting components to the Burgundy experience.

Despite the fact that it can be challenging and intimidating, the region’s very complexity can inspire a lifetime of discovery and enjoyment.  There are many well-known producers in Burgundy who consistently make impressive and investment-worthy wines.  However, great quality can also be found in more reasonably priced regional appellations, especially when crafted by an expert producer. The goal of all Burgundy is to best express its unique sense of place. Due to the proliferation of vineyard holdings, each producer aims to make wines that differentiate themselves by their ability to mirror the characteristics of the land and the winemaker’s personal style.

The following is a list of my favorite selections currently featured in our wine store:

2006 Faiveley, Joseph - Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er Cru, BH 91-93, $69.95
2005 Bertagna - Nuits St Georges Les Murgers 1er Cru, BH 90-92, $89
1999 Delarche, Marius - Corton-Renardes, BH 92, $92
2005 Trapet - Latricieres-Chambertin, BH 94, $179
2003 Magnien, Frederic - Chambertin Clos de Beze, BH 92-95, $195
2005 Potel, Nicolas - Bonnes Mares, BH 93-95, $325
2002 Lignier, Hubert - Clos de la Roche, BH 94, $365
2002 Mugnier, Jacques-Frederic – Musigny, BH 94, $659
1995 DRC - La Tache, BH 94, $1,495

2006 Fevre, William - Chablis Fourchaume 1er Cru, BH 90-93, $40.95
2005 Long-Depaquit - Chablis Les Clos, BH 92, $54
2005 Girardin, Vincent - Corton-Charlemagne Quintessence, BH 92-95, $175
2005 Lafon, Comtes - Meursault Charmes 1er Cru, BH 91-93, $315
2004 Niellon, Michel - Batard-Montrachet, BH 94, $399

While we have been selling the 2005 Burgundies since early last year, we still have some new additions and purchases for the 2005 Burgundy campaign.  Allen Meadows of Burghound released issue 29 yesterday on the Cote de Nuits – The 2006 and 2005 Vintages.  Allen’s final reviews on the 2005 Cote de Nuits are even better than originally previewed and what was acknowledged as "the best vintage since 1978" is now being elevated to "one of the greatest vintages in the history of modern Burgundy."  Click here for all listings of the 2005 Cote de Nuits reds available before they sell out. 

A word to the wise……
Considering the strength of the dollar and the upward pricing pressure on the 2005s, use our advanced search to review our inventory for blue chip Burgundies from the 1993, 1995, 1996, 1999, 2001, and 2002 vintages.

I had an extraordinary experience last month.  I was invited to a special wine dinner at Spruce restaurant in San Francisco and oh my, was it an amazing evening!  Spruce is a product of those gastro-geniuses who created the Village Pub and Pizza Antica. This restaurant is truly a labor of love, as over three years passed between lease-signing and opening night, though I must say the décor, the food, and of course the wine list were certainly worth the wait.
Our evening started with Champagne: a beautiful 1990 Alain Robert, Clos de Mesnil Blancs de Blanc; an incredibly perfumed Champagne with hints of white flower, hazelnut, and spicy ginger.  On the palate, this wine was even more enticing with the richness and fullness of the 1990 vintage, combined with extraordinary vivacity and elegance.  
The first course of seared veal sweetbreads, (one of my favorite dishes), with pancetta, lentils, and glazed apples was perfectly married with a 1993 Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne from magnum.   It had beautiful fruit, retaining its youth with none of the “baby fat.”  Fantastic elegance and creaminess encompassed the palate from first sip to last, as did length and acidity, which balanced the richness of the sweetbreads.  
With the main course, a choice of either Poached Halibut, Savoy spinach, caramelized fennel, and Maitake mushrooms; or Honey-Lacquered Duck Breast, cinnamon-dusted foie gras, and plum gastric.  Though I ordered the duck, I can attest to the expert preparation of both, as we were all sharing.  Accompanying these exquisite dishes were a 1970 Château Pétrus ($2,299) and a 1970 Château Trotanoy from magnum.  It was a wonderful comparison: both from magnum, both 100% Merlot, both owned and managed by the same family, and both from my favorite vintage, 1970. They were still very much the rich and vibrant wines that I remembered.  The Pétrus had essence of sour cherry preserves and dark chocolate on the palate, with great acidity and length.  It was a impressive and powerful ’70.  The Trotanoy had a hint of herbaceousness and an almost baked bean taste, (molasses, spice, sugar, and pork), on the palate.  The longer it was in the glass, the more elegant it became.   Both of these chateaus excelled in 1970, and were the perfect foil for the duck with red berry fruits, mocha, and smoked meat.
After the main course, a delectable selection of artisan cheeses was paired with a 1970 Domaine de la Romanée Conti La Tâche.  Though the glass showed just a hint of bricking at the rim, the wine was not a bit oxidized.  Great nose with just a bit of that barnyard aroma found in so many ultra-traditional and older Burgundies.  On the palate, there was lots of fresh strawberry and mint, as well as a whisper of leather.  Elegant and beautiful as it lingered both in the glass and in the mouth, the length dissipated only after several minutes.
And the pièce de résistance was, obviously, the dessert course: Stone Fruit Bruschetta with vanilla olive oil and lemon verbena ice cream paired with an old German Riesling, a 1937 Staatsweingut Kiedricher Gräfenberg Trockenbeerenauslese. This is from one of the premier vineyards in Germany’s Rheingau region.  Though it is 100% Riesling, the color was dark apricot to almost medium ruby red.  It had aromas of coffee, mocha, and orange marmalade.  I do enjoy Sauternes, Ports, and Tokays, but the concentration and richness of this TBA was immeasurably better than any 1937 made outside Germany.  The acidity was so intense and the texture so luscious that the flavors lingered on my palate for at least 15 minutes. I left a little in my glass for another hour to check its progress.  Wow!  It was just as intense and vibrant an hour later as it had been in the beginning.  There is certainly something to be said for the provenance of a wine.  I knew exactly where that bottle had laid from the time it was first bottled until it was opened at Spruce almost 70 years later.
It was almost too much when the 1979 Diebolt-Vallois à Cramant arrived; almost, but not quite.  The Champagne was a stunning medium/dark golden color with a fine mousse.  Though it had reached full maturity, it was not a bit tired.  Both in the glass and on the palate, what struck me most was the combination of apple pie, tart green apples, cinnamon and nutmeg spice, and delightful creaminess.
These pairings made for an unforgettable evening, showcasing the incredible possibilites when the best in food and wine are enjoyed together.

I always love this wine. Brusset really "sticks to its guns." The wine is so consistent from vintage to vintage. There is natural winemaking at Brusset and the breakdown commonly offers a 50%/25%/25% split of Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah. It’s usually rather big but it’s always very clean and pure. Brusset makes a Côtes du Rhône and one or two Carianne, as well as their Gigondas Tradition. Parker’s Wine Buyer’s Guide rates the domaine, Les Hautes de Montmirail by Daniel Brusset, among only four "Outstanding" producers. I’ve never seen a rated vintage score lower than 89 points from either Parker or Tanzer.
 
A fairly subtle nose that continues to develop. Black cherry and some sautéed cherry mix with a more playful gumdrop flavor. There is a slight citrus note while the wine opens up with late developing flavors of chocolate and menthol. There is just a trace of tarmac -- along with darker cherry elements-- that you can expect to develop in this wine over the next ten to twelve years or so. To drink now, leave open in the glass or decant for an hour.

2005 Brusset - Gigondas Les Hauts du Montmirail ($40)

It was my turn to cook for a group of family and friends on New Year’s Eve.  I wanted to keep it simple and stress-free so I could spend more time with everyone.  The goal was to have simple pairings and let the wines show.  This was an easy prep which allowed me to fire and plate in no time.  

The most basic rule of pairing food and wine is to either “mirror” or “oppose” the components and characteristics of the dish and the wine.  Like matching colors, you can either mirror or oppose the different tastes, weights, and textures to create balance.  I chose to build the dishes around the wines.

Provençale Calamari Sautée with Toasted French bread
Wine: 2004 Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet ($50)
The sautée included olive oil, butter, white wine, tomatoes, garlic, lemon juice, and basil.  Niellon’s Chassagne AC is reference standard and an easy “go to.”  I buy this wine every vintage.  The 2004 has great acid, rich, succulent fruit, and a deliciously rich mid-palate.  This was a very simple pairing and a tasty starter.

Seared Mahi Mahi with a Mango Beurre Blanc over a Butternut squash purée
Wine: 2003 Ramonet Bienvenues-Batard Montrachet
I seared these in cast iron pans and finished them in the oven so I could get a nice carmelization on the fish to match the oak in the wine.  Mahi Mahi is meaty enough to stand up to the fatness of the BBM.  BBM is more feminine than Chevalier and has a trademark honeyed character.  The beurre blanc, mango, and the sweetness of the butternut squash were a perfect mirror for the 2003.

Grilled New York Steak with Truffle Butter, Garlic mashed potatoes, and Haricots Verts
Wine: 1999 Guigal Cote-Rotie Chateau d’Ampuis
This is a total no brainer.  I mirrored the smoky, meaty, and earthy components of the steak and truffle butter to this quintessential Cote-Rôtie.  I am always looking for 1999 Cote-Rôtie’s and you should too if you don’t own them already.  The D’Ampuis is sourced from Guigal’s estate vineyards. The first vintage was 1995 and this wine is the little brother of the La La’s (the big 3).  I decanted this for 2 hours and it finally budged.  This wine has tremendous glycerin and is a real mouthful of black fruits, smoke, tapenade, and jerky.

Other wines tasted:
NV Billecart Salmon Rose ($74)—goes unsaid as the best bang for your buck in NV Rose

1999 Dujac Chambolle-Musigny: Elegant, delicate, and perfumed.  All that is Chambolle and Burgundy.  An earthy concoction of red fruits, black cherry, and violets.  Finely detailed and balanced.  I picked up a slight iodine note underneath.  Drinking great now.

The 2005 Vogué Musigny Vieilles Vignes may be the wine of the vintage for 2005 red Burgundy!  This was just released on our website today.  Allen Meadows comments, "whether it will ultimately transcend the heights achieved by the 1919 or the 1949 remains an open question."  

2005 Vogué, Comte de - Musigny (Vieilles Vignes)   $1,450   6 bottle limit  
BH 96-99    Drink Date: 2020+  Comments: Don’t Miss
IWC 95-98
WA 96-98

Commune: Chambolle-Musigny
Commune Characteristics: Chambolle-Musigny produces the most delicate wines in the Cote de Nuits showing more perfume, elegance, silk and lace.  Clive Coates describes it as the "ballerina," rather that the "shot putter."
Vineyard: Le Musigny grand cru

Vineyard/terroir notes:  
•    One of the very greatest climats in the whole of the Cote d'Or with Chambertin, Chambertin Clos de Beze, la Tache, and Romanee-Conti
•    Up slope--oolite, limestone further down, high in limestone
•    Red clay not found elsewhere
•    Northern part is Grand Musigny or simply Musigny
•    Southern--les Petits Musigny--monopole of Vogué

There are three climats in Musigny.  Vogué has a monopole on one of the two best climats, les Petits Musigny (4.2 ha), which their ancestors have owned since 1766.  They own a whopping 66.5% of the entire vineyard.  Four domaines in total own 90% of Musigny (Prieur, Mugnier, and Drouhin, along with Vogue).

Vineyard Characteristics:
•    Majesty itself, the "queen" rather than the "king" when you think of texture and character
•    At it best, the most delicious grand cru in Burgundy
•    Harmonious, complex, profound bouquet, and balance
•    Petits fruits rouges galore, breed, purity

Allen Meadows comments that Musigny "combines power, richness, finesse, and complexity.  It is one of the two or three supreme expressions in all of Burgundy.  There is no shortage of Burgundy lovers who will claim that the greatest red Burgundy they have ever tasted is between the '45, '47, or '49 Musigny from Comte de Vogué."
 
Top Musigny domaines:
•    Vogue (7.14ha)
•    Mugnier (1.14ha)
•    Prieur (77a)
•    Drouhin (67a)
•    Leroy (27a)
•    Jadot (17a)
•    Roumier (10a)
•    Faiveley(3a)

Surface area: 10.86 ha
Average Production: 39,600 bottles

1ha = 2.471 acres
100 acres = 1 ha

The recent pricing trends of top Bordeaux have probably been frustrating for those of us who don’t run hedge funds or aren’t paid in Euros. It’s easy for these wines to fall off of our radar as they resemble hot stocks, ticking northward. But every once in a while, we are reminded of the reasons these wines are so coveted. Over dinner I recently tried a beautiful bottle of 1983 Margaux, a wine that I hadn’t consumed in a couple of years. This Margaux possesses an elegance and femininity rarely found in Cabernet-based wines. And there’s really something special about fine Bordeaux when it obtains secondary characteristics and its tannins begin to melt away, leaving a polished, silky, complex wine behind. Many of us have set our sights on other regions that might posses a bit more "bang for the buck" or intellectual stimulation. But it’s hard to deny the quality of top vintages from the best chateaux. To quote Ferris Bueller, "If you have the means, I highly recommend picking one up."