As summer approaches, there are a multitude of food and wine events that take place in the Bay Area. Isn’t it time you got out and enjoyed yourself? Below is a list of the calendar highlights (refer to today’s feature, “Summer food & wine festivals,” in the San Francisco Chronicle as well as Vinfolio’s “Wine Events” page for more details).

MAY

May 16, San Francisco

Uncorked  - Fourth annual food and wine festival in Ghirardelli Square. www.ghirardellisq.com

May 16, Monterey

Sustainable Foods Fair – Daylong fair at the Monterey Bay aquarium including the annual Cooking for Solutions event featuring celebrity chefs. www.cookingforsolutions.com

May 30-31, San Mateo

Maker Faire – The “world’s largest do-it-yourself festival” including demonstrations on an array of topics such as brewing beer and preserving foods. www.makerfaire.com

JUNE

June 4-7, Napa

Auction Napa Valley – The American Wine Classic – In 1981 the Napa Valley Vintners established what is now the premier charity wine auction. Includes tastings, dinners and lunches, as well the Barrel Auction at Robert Mondavi winery. http://www.napavintners.com/anv/anv_1_overview.aspx

June 6-7, Menlo Park

Sunset Magazine's Celebration Weekend – Demonstrations, panel discussions and workshops at the magazine headquarters. www.sunset.com/cw

June 13, Mountain View

Great American Food and Music Fest – Cooking demos as well as food and wine tastings at the Shoreline Amphitheatre. www.greatamericanfoodandmusicfest.com

June 16-18, Santa Barbara, CA

6th Annual California Wine Festival - With a venue in the heart of the historic Spanish center of downtown Santa Barbara, the California Wine Festival features top local wineries, restaurants, caterers and musical performers. www.californiawinefestival.com/

June 25-28, San Francisco

Pinot Days – More than 200 Pinot Noir vintners are featured in tastings and seminars at this four-day event at Fort Mason (Vinfolio is a sponsor). www.pinotdays.com

JULY

July 18-25, Napa Valley

Napa Valley Festival del Sole – Fourth annual festival includes concerts, art exhibitions, and food and wine tastings. www.fdsnapa.org

AUGUST

Aug. 6-9, San Francisco

SF Chefs. Food. Wine. – Tastings, panel discussions, and cooking demonstrations by local chefs and members of the food & wine industry in Union Square and nearby venues. www.sfchefsfoodwine.com

Aug. 23-24, San Francisco

Family Winemakers Tasting - Experience the largest tasting of California wines in the world that showcases the state's small, family-owned wineries. www.familywinemakers.org/tastings/tastings.cfm/

SEPTEMBER

Sept. 4-6, Sonoma County

Sonoma Wine Country Weekend – Wine seminars, cooking demonstrations, and vineyard tours. More than 150 wineries and 60 chefs will offer samples at the 30th annual Taste of Sonoma on Sept. 5 at the Gallo family's historic MacMurray Ranch in Healdsburg. www.sonomawinecountryweekend.com

The short “heat wave” we just had in San Francisco inspired me to begin stocking up on white wines for upcoming Summer parties, bbqs and lazy weekends at the beach. Like many of you, I prefer not to go over the $30 range for my every day drinking whites, especially if I’m unable to taste them in advance or solicit an opinion from a trusted friend. Luckily, one of the perks of working for a wine retailer is the ability to try some pretty fascinating wines before I purchase them. The other perk—one which any Vinfolio customer can take advantage of—is having access to the opinions of some very skilled wine experts, including Vinfolio’s Executive Wine Specialists and our Wine Buying Team. Recently tasted whites I’ve gone on to purchase, range from bright, crisp, nicely balanced Sauvignon Blancs to big buttery mouth pleasing Chardonnays.
Below are just some of the wines I’ve tasted and purchased recently. I think there’s something here for just about everyone.

Source Sauvignon Blanc (VF 90) – A great value, sold by the case for $178.95, which comes out to about $15 a bottle. I purchased this for a recent birthday party and it was a big hit. Bright, fruity and crisp, the perfect wine with grilled fish or chicken on a hot day.

2007 Margerum - Sauvignon Blanc Sybarite (IWC 90) – Very different from the Source, this has a fuller body and while still crisp, the acidity is more integrated. It paired wonderfully with pasta and chicken in a pesto sauce.

2005 Hobbs, Paul - Chardonnay Russian River Valley (WS 89) – This is a big Chard that I don’t usually gravitate toward, but I went back to it a day later and it had really softened up. It’s definitely in a buttery, oaky style, so I’d pair it with a nice grilled salmon served in a butter and dill cream sauce, with a slight hint of lemon and capers for balance. And yes, while it’s over my personal $30 rule, I’d still purchase and recommend it.

2004 Kumeu River - Chardonnay Mate's Vineyard (WS 93) – This was a real surprise and a real treat. When I first put my nose to it, the bouquet was reminiscent of an oaky, buttery California Chardonnay, but on the palate—to my extreme surprise—it had all the characteristics of Chablis. Needless to say, it put a smile on my face. I haven’t paired it with food yet, but the bright acidity and medium body tells me this is definitely a food wine—probably best paired with a seafood pasta in a light white wine and cream sauce.

Enjoy exploring these and all the other great Summer whites that you can get your hands on.

I cooked up a really fun, easy, and delicious pairing for the hot weather we had this weekend. I rubbed raw tuna steaks with a light cracked pepper crust and seared the steaks in a smoking hot cast iron pan quickly on all sides leaving them rare in the middle. After I let the tuna rest for a couple of minutes, I sliced the steaks into strips serving them on a large platter drizzled with a roasted red pepper cream sauce and garnished with lightly dressed mixed greens and pickled ginger. It was a hit and a delicious pairing with the 2007 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rose. The Bandol Rose was fresh and brimming with red berry fruit, subtle herbal notes, and a hint of spice.  Since the 2007 is a touch more bitter than the 2006, it worked well to round out your palate balancing the meatiness of the tuna and the richness of the roasted red pepper cream sauce.

How many times have you been out to dinner and not ordered from the wine list because the markups were outrageously high? How many times have you ordered wine by the glass and paid the same for that glass as the entire bottle would cost at retail? Well that happens to me more frequently than I would like. It’s not that I’m cheap or don’t have the money to afford the wine, or that I feel restaurants aren’t entitled to make money through their wine program, because they are – it’s that I don’t like the feeling of being gouged, and I assume you don’t either. I’m obviously not the only person with restaurant wine pricing on the mind, based on the 90 responses to James Laube’s blog post "Help Wanted: What’s Fair with Restaurant Wine Pricing" on Wine Spectator online. Restaurants today routinely do themselves a huge disservice by charging too high of a margin per bottle, when they could easily make up the difference in volume with lower margins. They just don’t get it. 

Luckily I live in California where there is the option to bring your own wine to restaurants and pay a corkage fee. Savvy wine people here can do their homework, look at the wine list and menu prior to dining out, and decide whether or not to bring their own wines to the restaurant. This isn’t a luxury that most states allow, so the typical diner is held hostage by the restaurant’s wine list and exorbitant markups. Neither alternative is optimal in my opinion. In most cases, if the wine list is interesting and varied, I would much prefer to sample the restaurant’s offerings, than to bring my own. Furthermore, I would be much more inclined to order a second bottle if the price was reasonable (not more the 2 to 2-1/2 times retail). Dining out is one of life’s great loves for me, and in most cases I prefer the accompanying beverage to be wine – not a beer or cocktail…but steep markups are taking that fun away from me.  

Here are a few names of restaurants in the San Francisco Bay Area that have great, eclectic wine lists at very reasonable markups: Plumpjack, A16, NOPA, and Park Chow.

A few weeks ago my husband and I celebrated my birthday with a dinner at Cyrus in Healdsburg. As we had previously enjoyed the inventive cocktails and wines at the bar, we were anxious to try the full cuisine in the dining room. On our last visit bartender Scott Beattie had impressed us with a “Rubarbtini”, one of his many libations that use seasonal and locally-sourced fruits and herbs. Since it was early May, we wondered which seasonal dishes chef Douglas Keane would feature on the dinner menu. Below are our selections for a three-course meal:

Canapés and an Amuse Bouche
These nibbles stimulated the palate with contrasting elements of flavor, temperature, and texture.

NV Agrapart & Fils Brut “Terroirs” Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru                            

Similar to: NV Lancelot-Royer - Blanc de Blancs Cuvee des Chevaliers ($44)   

This crisp, lean sparkler was made from Chardonnay sourced from grand cru vineyards in Avize. Although I typically prefer blanc de blancs from le Mesnil, this champagne had a lovely balance of acidity and nutty creaminess that paired well with the canapés. 

First Course

Thai Marinated Lobster with Avocado, Mango and Hearts of Palm              

Roasted Beets with Mandarins and Pistachios

The citrus garnishes made the first course particularly refreshing, while the beet and nut combination gave a slightly earthier component.

2006 Paul Pernot Puligny Montrachet ($40)                                                      

This young Puligny showed notes of lemon, crisp acidity and subtle oak. This wine selection highlighted the bright flavors in the first course. 

Second Course

Crispy Poussin with Fava Beans and Morels, Thyme Jus                              

Lamb Loin with Black Rice, Haricot Verts, Capers and Raisins

I simply loved the crispy Poussin, a spring chicken, sourced from a farm in nearby Sonoma. It was extremely tender, dripping in its own juice and thyme, but cooked perfectly to give its skin a contrasting crunch. The lamb was a heartier dish that emanated earthy, meaty flavors which paired nicely with the spicy dark fruit character of the St Joseph wine pairing.

2004 J.L. Chave Saint-Joseph Offerus                                                           
Similar to: 2004 Saint Cosme - Saint Joseph ($32)

On the nose this classic Rhone Syrah displayed notes of olive, lavender, and grilled meats. It had a rich dark color with concentrated flavors of red and black fruits such as plum, red currant and blackberry.

Third Course

Artisanal and Farmhouse Cheeses with Breads, Fruits, and Accompaniments

Chocolate Malt Ice Cream, Butterfinger, Chocolate Almond Croquette

The desserts provided the final touches on the meal, from the creamy texture of triple cream cheese to the cooling sensations of chocolate malt.

Mignardises

The final dessert cart offered a selection of fruit candies, homemade marshmallows, and chocolates.

Our meal at Cyrus was extremely well-balanced and executed with keen attention to detail. I look forward to returning in another season to try new dishes from a different flavor perspective and explore more of the selections from their international wine list.

When planning your trip to Napa Valley, you’ve probably checked off of your list every dinner you’re planning to have, although you may not have considered where to enjoy your lunch. The best kept "secret" is brunch at Redd in Yountville (secret because not many gourmands have experienced it yet). 

Chef Richard Reddington has grown to great acclaim from years of honing his skills in both France and the Bay area. His style is as he describes it, "Napa Valley Food" - fresh, seasonal, and scrumptious. In my mind it beats dinner, allowing for a quieter atmosphere and brighter ambiance when the sun is streaming through the front windows.

I recommend starting with a glass of bubbly, such as the Egly-Ouriet Brut Prestige. Make sure to order some doughnut holes for the table at the time of the wine order. They’ll come piping hot to the table with chocolate, caramel, and raspberry dipping sauces. A stunning start. The highlight for brunch for me is a sashimi of hamachi served over sticky rice with edamame and lime ginger sauce. Other stunners are the breakfast pizza (you can ask to substitute smoked salmon for the prosciutto), huevos rancheros (traditional with chorizo), a lobster club sandwich with bacon and lemon aioli, and the caramelized diver scallops with cauliflower purée and balsamic reduction. For dessert, my top take is the peanut butter – milk chocolate Gianduja (a Swiss hazelnut chocolate confection), served with a peanut honeycomb parfait.

A nicely balanced Kistler Chardonnay will blend with most of the menu. With the meats, which are not overly hearty, a proper pinot will do. Go California with the Brewer Clifton or some Etude from Carneros. Corton le Rognet if you want some Burgundy for the table. Buy some bottles from Vinfolio to take with you. Corkage is nominal. Try it out and make a day of it, with a few winery visits in Rutherford as well (limos recommended). When you’ve finished, please reply to this blog and tell me if I was spot on with the suggestion.
 

2000 Egly-Ouriet - Brut Prestige Millesime $105

2003 Kistler – Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard (IWC 93, WS91) $84

2001 Kistler – Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard (IWC 95, WS 91) $89

1993 Ambroise, Bertrand – Corton Le Rognet (WA 90, WS 91) $125

2005 Brewer-Clifton – Pinot Noir Rio Vista Vineyard (WA 93) $47

2005 Etude – Pinot noir Temblor Vineyard Estate (VF 93) $60

 

As my husband, who hails from Southern France, put up a new awning in our back garden to provide some much needed shade from the heat, I thought it would be a perfect opportunity to open a rosé with dinner that reminded him of home. Since I had recently raided the Vinfolio wine store to stock up on my favorite summer whites and rosés, we thought we’d do a little taste test. I found a spicy crab and preserved lemon pasta dish in the recent issue of Gourmet.  It has some bold elements which call for a rosé with character and a little more weight, so we decided to test the three rosés I had brought home to see which paired best.

The wines:

2006 Mas de Gourgonnier Les Beaux de Provence Rosé ($9.94 on sale)
Discreet nose of red fruits with a hint of floral, lively acidity and a delicate dry finish. This wine was more enjoyable on its own as a refreshing pre-dinner sipper. It had a hard time holding up to the Asian spice in the sauce and showing its own throughout the dish.

2006 Mourgues du Gres Les Galets Rosés, Costieres de Nimes, VF 90 ($9.50 on sale)
Deep rose color with bright cherry and red fruits on the nose – very aromatic, more full-bodied on the palette with a smooth finish. The soft lush fruit really held up against the spice but could have used a little more acidity to cleanse the palette at the end. We liked this wine on its own and with the dish.

Bastide Blanche Bandol Rosé (currently out of stock)
Very pale rosé color; subtle hints of strawberry and red currant - a more structured wine with good acidity and a polished, dry finish. This was the best match to the dish. It had enough fruit to counterbalance the spice and great acidity that held up all the way through, bringing out the subtleties of the dish like the sweet/salty flavor of the preserved lemon. This wine was made for food and was less interesting on its own.

Given the recent popularity of rosé, I think it is worth trying out a few to get an idea of whether you want the "summer sipper" or a well-made classic like Bandol to serve with an elegant summer meal.  There are so many regions and varietals to choose from; you really need to taste what is out there.  

Late spring marks Outdoor BBQ Season even though some parts of the country are waiting for the thaw! Serious BBQ deserves well thought-out wine pairings to meld with bold flavors from spicy shrimp on the barbee, to dry-rubbed pulled pork. BBQ preparations are not just about the US, though. Let’s face it, the grill is a cook’s tool of choice worldwide! The popularity of Korean BBQ or Jamaican Jerk Chicken can’t be denied. Why not think outside of the box and travel the globe when making savvy wine pairings? Be creative, but follow proven pairing tips.  

• Stick with whites and reds that display forward fruit on the palate but not cloying sweetness. Spice and a touch of sweetness go a long way in the pairing equation!

• Choose table and sparkling wines that are naturally higher in acid. Assertive flavors need cleansing acidity to provide a natural balancing act.

• Avoid high alcohol wines. Extra spice and high octane can be cumbersome! There are some exceptions, such as Californian Zinfandel, which sometimes teeters on 17% alcohol. Just make sure you’re sipping the old-vine with gobs of berry fruit!

• Toasty oak should be in the chip form for your smoker, not in the bottle. Zesty foods will only make your wine taste like a 2x4! Oak should be minimal; wines fermented in stainless steel are favored.

• Tannic reds should be left in your cellar to mellow! Think light to medium-bodied reds, which translate into lower alcohol wines that are more versatile for food pairing.

When it comes to pairing wines with BBQ, I have trouble sitting still in my home state of California, especially with the diversity of flavor possibilities out there! So let’s take a ride through some ideal matches!

Papaya-Jalapeno Glazed Mahi Mahi - A crisp white with ample fruit and zest are critical here. I love to turn to Italy for an array of native cultivar, from Prosecco to Falanghina. Italian whites maybe the most under-appreciated white category in the world.

NV Sorelle Bronca - Prosecco di Valdobbiadene, Veneto, Italy ($15) - Prosecco makes for a wonderful budget-beater, usually coming below $15 per bottle. The Sorrelle makes for the perfect palate cleanser.

2006 Ca Dei Frati - Lugana I Frati, Veneto, Italy ($20) - Lugana is a noble clone of Trebbiano and has more length and body than many others, with all the mouth-watering acidity expected from this high acid varietal.

Slow & Low Cooked Pulled Pork - BBQ enthusiasts always have a good recipe for slow-cooked Pork Shoulder and Pork Butt in their arsenal. I find Spanish Tintos versatile and ideal companions where savory spice meets tender melt in your mouth shredded meat.

2005 Maurodos – Prima Tinto, Toro, Spain ($18) - Many Tintos from Toro can be too hard edged, but the Prima goes to the head of the class for accessibility, steering away from heavy oak. The sweet and spicy core of Tempranillo and Grenache fruit ranks high for personality and flavor.

2004 Pago Alto Landon – Manchuela, Castilla y Leon, Spain ($29) - The Manchuela D.O. is coming on strong for its blends. Bold, dark black fruit flavors coat the palate to finish with silky and supple notes.

Flank Steak with Chimichurri Sauce - “Barons of the Grill” always get inspired by this Argentine classic! Chimichurri Sauce brings on that piquant element that makes you want a few more slices. I find that Montepulciano from the Marche in S.E. Italy and Argentine Malbec are perfect steak wines, as they can handle the fresh herbal and vinegar notes of the Chimichurri.

2005 Nicodemi – ‘Notari’ Montepulciano d'Abruzzo ($15) - You want hearty flavors from your Italian varietals? Well, move over Sangiovese! Montepulciano from Abruzzo has made strides in the last twenty years. The Nicodemi Notari delivers the goods with a brooding meatiness that matches a meat lover’s appetite.

2005 Mendel – Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina ($23) - This 100% Malbec typifies the category! A lot of boldness for the price, and its dark saturated hue means all business without the clumsy new oak! Elements of smoke and supple blackberry in the core are a winning formula to handle the grill marks.

Hawaiian Hoisin-Glazed Baby Back Pork Ribs - I worked in restaurants in Hawaii for several years and these ribs top any pupu menu list. A super-spicy BBQ rib will be too hot for most reds, but the Hosin glaze has some restraints without losing the flavor. Big, jammy fruit notes are needed for this pairing!

2006 Broc - Vine Starr Red, California ($25) - A Zinfandel blend (67% Zin, 30% Syrah, 2% Petite Sirah & 1% Mourvedre) that packs it in with oodles of boysenberry and cranberry notes. A no brainer for Pork Ribs!

2006 Teusner – Joshua, Barossa Valley, Australia ($24) - The land of Oz has a treasure trove of perfect pairing BBQ wines, but be careful with renditions that have new oak. The Teusner Joshua doesn’t see an ounce and we like it that way! Close your eyes and you might think you’re drinking a Cotes du Rhone on steroids! The cuvee is comprised of 65% Grenache, 25% Mataro and 10% Shiraz. The dark and expressive black and blue fruit laced with pepper makes for an afternoon BBQ delight!

Some of my most memorable meals have been Tasting Menus – wine-pairing dinners in which I’ve turned the reins over to the sommelier to lead me in pairing directions that I probably wouldn’t have traveled on my own, and I can honestly say that I’ve never been disappointed. I’m a big fan of variety, and pairing menus offer just that. Last weekend my wife, some friends, and I spent a wonderful Saturday evening dining at the fine restaurant La Toque, in Rutherford (Napa Valley). Each of us ordered the wine pairing with the 5-course tasting menu. We unanimously agreed that the meal and the wine pairings could not have been better. The sommelier, Scott Tracy, was extremely knowledgeable on the wines he was serving, and explained the provenance of each one prior to pouring. Here is the menu for that night along with the wine pairings. I’ve included Vinfolio selections that can easily substitute for each pairing wine. Perhaps you will be inspired to create your own wine-pairing meal at home!

Substitute: 2005 Terlano - Pinot Bianco Vorberg

Substitute: 2006 Knoll, Emmerich - Gruner Veltliner Ried Loibenberg Smaragd

Substitute: 2006 Vieux Donjon - Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc

Substitute: 2005 Maldonado - Chardonnay Los Olivos Vineyard

Substitute: 2004 Fiddlehead - Pinot Noir 728 Fiddlestix Vineyard

Substitute: 2006 Sineann - Pinot Noir Covey Ridge Vineyard

Substitute: 2004 Phelps, Joseph - Cabernet Sauvignon Backus Vineyard

Substitute: 2006 Hirsch - Pinot Noir Estate

Substitute: 2006 Ojai - Viognier Ice Wine Roll Ranch

On a beautiful, sunny day in January I decided to spend some well-deserved R&R in Half Moon Bay and Pescadero with my miniature schnauzer Pinot Noir. The plan was an afternoon of hiking on the beach, enjoying the sunset on the links of the Ritz Carlton, and then having an early dinner at Duarte’s Tavern. I have been enormous fan of this historic restaurant in the sleepy town of Pescadero since a good friend of mine first introduced me to it almost ten years ago. Located between Half Moon Bay and Santa Cruz, its specialties are of course artichokes and the freshest seafood, as well as Harley Farms goat cheese, (made by Dee Harley, Tim Duarte’s wife.)

The sourdough is always served piping; in fact if you sit at the counter, you may even catch a glimpse of Ron, the fourth-generation Duarte to be working at this landmark establishment, pulling the rounds right out of the oven!  Tim, his son, can also be spotted in the kitchen nine times out of ten.

Depending on the season, and of course my mood, my top picks for a main course are as follows:

Dungeness Crab: as a native Californian, it is imperative to partake of the crab whenever it is in season. When it is this sweet and melts in your mouth, how could you say no?

Crab Cioppino: a true San Francisco tradition, though not even in the City have I had one better.

Abalone Sandwich: very lightly breaded and served on true San Francisco sourdough with lemon; it is just steps from heaven.

They also have a Mexican coleslaw with cabbage from their own garden, cilantro, jalepeno peppers, and lime juice, and not a drop of mayonnaise in sight. After a long afternoon with Pinot, it was just the right amount of crisp, nutritious veggies to balance out the half cream of artichoke and half cream of green chili soup (another Duarte’s must-have) and the abalone sandwich. Of course being a “quasi-regular” for a few years, I knew to order my slice of olallieberry pie in advance. If you have no room after the generous portions, they are more than willing to pack it up to go. A little hint, even if you do have room for pie, order a second slice, as it makes for a fantastic breakfast the next morning! 

This being Pescadero, the wine list is pretty Santa Cruz Mountain-centric, but includes selections from Santa Barbara Coast, and some Napa, Sonoma and French. I started with a 2005 Navarro Sauvignon Blanc. Its acidity cut through the two different soups perfectly, and the herbaceous and green apple quality married nicely as well. This was followed by the 2004 Domaine Séguinot-Bordet Chablis “Réserve Sainte Victoire”. A classic ‘04 with lovely minerality, and a hint of lime pithe and green fruit; it made a perfect foil for the abalone and cole-slaw. Multiple layers of white blossoms, pear, and a hint of honey combined with elegance and length to make this a lovely pairing. After such a wonderful meal, I decided not to push my luck, so I took my pie to-go.

Duart’s Tavern, a James Beard Award winner for Classic American cuisine, is the quintessential small-town tavern with seasonal decorations from the ‘50s covering the walls for all of the major holidays, an inviting staff, and truly some of the freshest seafood (selected every morning by Ron) I have ever experienced. Whether you are a regular or a first-timer, this warm and inviting family-owned and operated tavern will have you trying to find more reasons to drive down Highway 1 just to stop by for a quick bite.

I faced a dilemma of epic proportions…pulled pork, tri-tip or smoked sausage. At the Beach Pit BBQ in Costa Mesa (SoCal - a.k.a. The O.C.), they serve a mean array of grilled flesh with one of the best tangy, spicy sauces I’ve had. Finally deciding (sliders – one of each) presented me with another quandary. What the heck was I going to drink with all this hot, meaty goodness? Dad (whose genes I am convinced have a great deal to do with my wine tasting affinity) came to the rescue. With a wry smile, Dad quipped “I know how much you love Chateauneuf-du-Pape.”  Yes, well, and that love knows no limits, as I am sure he was remembering the time I drank his last bottle of 1989 Beaucastel ($235) during a weekend home from college. Youthful trangressions forgotten, he graciously proffered the Monpertuis 2005 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Cuvee Classique" ($33/750ml or $21/375ml) for my dining pleasure.  Now this is a wine that is made for hearty, flavor-spiked, spice-laden fare. It starts out with a pure, racy, juicy Grenache-driven palate that seduces you with spicy herb and pepper laced-up with strawberry and raspberry fruit. With in-your-face food we were eating/wearing, this elegance transcended its humble bottle persona and expressed such complementary trappings that we were into bottle number two before we knew it. This is simply beautiful, pure Rhone complexity, round and reasonable with immediate gratification its only goal.

Doesn’t quite rhyme, but you get the drift - a perfect combination for a Saturday afternoon enjoying the beautiful weather in San Francisco with Champagne and caviar.  As with all great food and wine, the timing of when, where and with whom, makes all the difference in the world when it comes to those special memories.

After abandoning my snow shovel in Boston last fall to move to San Francisco, I thought the nonstop January rain would never end.  Thankfully for me, this has all changed. This past Saturday I had a good friend come into town from the Sacramento area that was in desperate need for some San Francisco sophistication, shopping and great food.  

Of course we had to shop, but the highlight of the day was taking a much needed break at Absinthe Brasserie and Bar in the Hayes Valley for an afternoon glass of wine and a light snack.  We scored a great table outside and decided on an ounce of Osetra caviar and some NV Henriot Brut Champagne.

Henriot is a top Champagne producer from the Reims area in Champagne.  They are known for their quality and fresh style.  Part of this comes from the fact that they use only very small quantities, if any, of Pinot Meunier and, a higher concentration than most, of Chardonnay.  As an example, the Non-Vintage Brut is composed of 40% Chardonnay and 60% Pinot Noir.  Currently we have the '96 Vintage Henriot in stock in 750ml ($66) and magnum ($139), both of which are a fantastic value for the money.

The saltiness of the caviar and champagne, the weight of the wine combined with the weight of the blini’s and caviar.  What can I say, a fine mousse, crisp, fresh, complex and last but least…….elegant. Of course we didn’t want to ruin our dinner at Spruce; I’ll save that for another blog!

A little while back a group of friends decided to celebrate the holidays at my favorite restaurant south of San Francisco, Manresa.  This fabulous place is named after the medieval town in Catalonia and gets much of the cuisine’s inspiration from that region as well as from the European classics and local biodynamic farming.  David Kinch, the Executive Chef, has worked at famous restaurants throughout the world from the Quilted Giraffe in New York, to Arzak in San Sebastian, Spain and everywhere in between and has a style all his own—he created my favorite amuse-bouche in the US, a coddled egg with foie gras, maple syrup and caviar.  What a way to start any meal.  I could certainly do it for breakfast, lunch, AND dinner.

When we first arrived in the private room we were all presented with a glass of Non-Vintage Drappier Val des Demoiselles. It has a wonder balance of fruit and acidity. On the palate, there was a hint of cassis.  This Champagne has lovely freshness, with a breath of toastiness and great length.  Once we were all seated, we were treated to Kobe-style American Beef and Oyster Tartar.  Though I have experienced Manresa on numerous occasions, this dish was a new one me and what a treat!  The marriage between the two very distinct flavors was absolutely superb and it virtually melted in my mouth.  Our second amuse was a daring Kohlrabi and Foie Gras Royale demonstrating Chef Kinch’s knack for blending very different textures with outstanding results.

Our first course consisted of Monterey Bay Spot Prawns on the Planch with exotic Indian spice.  The prawns were so sweet and creamy they melted in my mouth; the sauce had fantastic cumin and coriander; and the combination was very fresh and light as there was no cream to weigh it down at the beginning of the meal.  This delectable dish was served with a 2006 Diatom Huber Chardonnay, Santa Rita Hills.  It had a hint of herbaceousness and green papaya.  The 100% malolactic fermentation was certainly apparent and it had a fairly pronounced buttery character.  It was a bit green on the palate, with good acidity, balance, and length.  It was a lovely pairing with the prawns as there was also a good deal of lychee and exotic fruit as well.

This being December in the Bay Area, our next treat was of course Dungeness Crab prepared in a risotto with black truffles.  For those of you who are unaware, we had an oil spill occur in the San Francicsco Bay just before Thanksgiving.  It closed beaches and delayed the official beginning of Crab Season by several weeks.  But good things certainly come to those who wait.  The crab was so sweet, the risotto creamy and cooked to perfection, and who could ever look down their noses at black truffles from Perigord?  To accompany this delectable dish we had a 2002 Gros Frère et Soeur Vosne-Romanée.  With its beautiful ruby color, it was a classic Vosne-Romanée with hints of violettes and that traditional "barnyard" (and I do mean that in the best sense) aroma.  A perfect Côte de Nuits, the wine was lovely and elegant with great acidity and length.  It the end it was the red berry and tobacco that lingered the most.

Our next course was the Guinea Hen poached and then roasted with Winter Vegetable and Citrus.  This was the perfect dish for a cold winter evening with friends.  The hen was rich and moist while the hearty root vegetables were still kept light and savory with the help of the citrus.  This memorable course was accompanied by the 2004 Pisoni Estate Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands.  It had a dark ruby hue and a nose that was all cherry and mint.  There was a good deal of acidity to this Pinot and very fresh for a '04.  The finish had lots of sweetness and a gentle hint of melted brown sugar.

Our main course was an amazing Roast Beef with Yellowfoot Mushrooms and Crushed Potatoes with Horseradish.  The beef was beautifully roasted – just the right amount of pink for me.  The potatoes were from heaven, so sweet from the caramelization accompanied by delectable mushrooms. As this course was fit for a king, we had of course the king of Napa varietals, the 2004 Hourglass Cabernet Sauvignon, out of magnum.  The deep, opaque aubergine color was amazing.  In the nose were hints of mint, black cherry, and molasses.  On the palate it was almost over the top for the scrumptious yet mild roast beef.  It had huge, mouth puckering tannins, yet the overall body and structure was still fairly restrained.   We enjoyed this wine with a selection of cheeses ranging from a French raw goat’s milk, a harder Spanish goat’s milk, to an American blue wrapped in grape leaves.  Even with the intense color and acidity, this will be a fantastic wine to cellar for a years so as to enjoy it again with prime rib at some date after 2012.  

Our dessert course consisted of Dark Chocolate Fondant and Chicory Cremeux with Caramel Bouillon and hazelnut Ice Cream.  The chicory gave a pleasing crunchy consistency as well as flavor to the dish.  The hazelnut ice cream was a dream.  I have only had its equivalent once and that was in Piedmonte, Italy!  The caramel bouillon was wonderful with elegance and beautiful balance - not too sweet, just enough.  This dish also paired well with the Hourglass.

It was a fabulous way to celebrate the holidays with my dear friends from Saratoga and the fantastic staff at Manresa:  David, the always brilliant and low-key chef, Jeff, one of my favorite wine stewards, and Esteban, the ever welcoming Maître d’hôtel.  Everyone who works at Manresa has a class and professionalism that puts them truly head and shoulders above the rest.  Thank you again Russel and Susan Perry as well as everyone at Manresa.  Happy 2008!

Gastronomically speaking, it seems anything “Spain” has been on a ten-year upswing in the States. From the success of small plate-tapas bars in urban centers, to the upsurge in the import of wines from previously unknown regions, there’s no way around it, Spain is hot! This has propelled some friends and me to host an annual Spanish Feast over the last few years. A bounty of seafood is always at the top of the menu, paired with Cava and crisp aromatic whites. We usually prep three large Paella pans (seafood, veggie and meat lovers’ paradise), with Garnacha Rosados and savory Tempranillo Jovens waiting in the wings.

Beyond the food, I take great pride in selecting the wines for the theme. There’s an immense array of options that showcase distinct native varietals from bubbly to fortified, and more often than not they are the tastiest values available. Many of the native cultivars should be enjoyed young. They are extremely food-friendly, showcasing fresh, forward fruit, backed with cleansing acidity.

At Vinfolio we try to promote some of these darlings throughout the year and our clients appreciate that we have these wines available by the case for their entertaining needs. We presently have two wines on the site that scream “Spanish Party Wine”!   

Albariño is fast becoming what New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc or Viognier were in the early 1990s. Back then, there weren’t more than three or four Albarinos imported into the country. Today, the number has increased 500% if you include regions neighboring the famed Rias Baixas appellation in Galicia. Like Viognier, Albariño is aromatic, with a distinct stone fruit element rising off the nose. In most cases, the banner fruit scheme is peach backed with vibrant acidity and a twinge of minerality that will remind a wine enthusiast of German Riesling. The majority of the Albariño imported is un-oaked and tank-fermented to preserve the flowery aromatics and freshness.

2006 Nessa Albariño ($12) has won us over with its textbook notes of white flowers, zingy ginger-lemon zest backed with a light pear note. “Nessa” is made with the American market in mind. The parent winery is Adegas Gran Vinum, which has only been in business since 2002, but with the success of the past two vintages, this outfit is on the fast track to success. The winery is based in the Salnes Valley, where the grape thrives in the well-drained granite-based soils. Pair with citrus-glazed scallops, or any grilled seafood such as shrimp, spiny-tail lobster, or octopus.  

Mencia has become a favorite of the sommelier community here in the States. Testing has tied the grape genetically to Cabernet Franc, however, locals in the village of Bierzo and Ribeira Sacra would argue otherwise, stressing its uniqueness to the most inland portions of Galicia and the northeastern tip of Castile-León. The Bierzo district has more associated with Galicia than it does with the Castilian Empire, and the palate virtues of the Mencia varietal are putting this ancient viticulture pocket back on the map. It’s the only recommended red-skinned grape of the region. When tasting, the Cabernet Franc comparison is evident, with streaks of herbs and mint.

2006 Descendientes de Jose Palacios ‘Petalos’ Mencia ($20) has just been released on the site and it’s similar in quality to the 2005 rendition, which had great success. The schist-based mineral component really shines in this youthful, but approachable wine. Notes of black cherry and black raspberry hit the palate with pleasing results. The back end reveals more mineral notes intertwined with cigar ash and oil-cured black olives. It’s important to let this wine breath in glass or decanter for a good hour, but patience is rewarded! Close your eyes and you might think you’re drinking a wine triple the price. The Descendientes de Jose Palacios project is dedicated to this grape, sourcing old-vine material throughout the village of Corullon in Bierzo. There are other single vineyard offerings on the site that are more oak-driven and need time, but the 2006 Petalos is fresh, having spent only about 8 months in older oak. The vines used in this cuvée range from 40 to 90 years old. The Petalos cries out for lamb of any kind, but I like spicy dry rub lamb sirloin on the grill. When planning your Spanish Feast, perhaps try a slow-roasted leg of suckling pig! 

I had an extraordinary experience last month.  I was invited to a special wine dinner at Spruce restaurant in San Francisco and oh my, was it an amazing evening!  Spruce is a product of those gastro-geniuses who created the Village Pub and Pizza Antica. This restaurant is truly a labor of love, as over three years passed between lease-signing and opening night, though I must say the décor, the food, and of course the wine list were certainly worth the wait.
Our evening started with Champagne: a beautiful 1990 Alain Robert, Clos de Mesnil Blancs de Blanc; an incredibly perfumed Champagne with hints of white flower, hazelnut, and spicy ginger.  On the palate, this wine was even more enticing with the richness and fullness of the 1990 vintage, combined with extraordinary vivacity and elegance.  
The first course of seared veal sweetbreads, (one of my favorite dishes), with pancetta, lentils, and glazed apples was perfectly married with a 1993 Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne from magnum.   It had beautiful fruit, retaining its youth with none of the “baby fat.”  Fantastic elegance and creaminess encompassed the palate from first sip to last, as did length and acidity, which balanced the richness of the sweetbreads.  
With the main course, a choice of either Poached Halibut, Savoy spinach, caramelized fennel, and Maitake mushrooms; or Honey-Lacquered Duck Breast, cinnamon-dusted foie gras, and plum gastric.  Though I ordered the duck, I can attest to the expert preparation of both, as we were all sharing.  Accompanying these exquisite dishes were a 1970 Château Pétrus ($2,299) and a 1970 Château Trotanoy from magnum.  It was a wonderful comparison: both from magnum, both 100% Merlot, both owned and managed by the same family, and both from my favorite vintage, 1970. They were still very much the rich and vibrant wines that I remembered.  The Pétrus had essence of sour cherry preserves and dark chocolate on the palate, with great acidity and length.  It was a impressive and powerful ’70.  The Trotanoy had a hint of herbaceousness and an almost baked bean taste, (molasses, spice, sugar, and pork), on the palate.  The longer it was in the glass, the more elegant it became.   Both of these chateaus excelled in 1970, and were the perfect foil for the duck with red berry fruits, mocha, and smoked meat.
After the main course, a delectable selection of artisan cheeses was paired with a 1970 Domaine de la Romanée Conti La Tâche.  Though the glass showed just a hint of bricking at the rim, the wine was not a bit oxidized.  Great nose with just a bit of that barnyard aroma found in so many ultra-traditional and older Burgundies.  On the palate, there was lots of fresh strawberry and mint, as well as a whisper of leather.  Elegant and beautiful as it lingered both in the glass and in the mouth, the length dissipated only after several minutes.
And the pièce de résistance was, obviously, the dessert course: Stone Fruit Bruschetta with vanilla olive oil and lemon verbena ice cream paired with an old German Riesling, a 1937 Staatsweingut Kiedricher Gräfenberg Trockenbeerenauslese. This is from one of the premier vineyards in Germany’s Rheingau region.  Though it is 100% Riesling, the color was dark apricot to almost medium ruby red.  It had aromas of coffee, mocha, and orange marmalade.  I do enjoy Sauternes, Ports, and Tokays, but the concentration and richness of this TBA was immeasurably better than any 1937 made outside Germany.  The acidity was so intense and the texture so luscious that the flavors lingered on my palate for at least 15 minutes. I left a little in my glass for another hour to check its progress.  Wow!  It was just as intense and vibrant an hour later as it had been in the beginning.  There is certainly something to be said for the provenance of a wine.  I knew exactly where that bottle had laid from the time it was first bottled until it was opened at Spruce almost 70 years later.
It was almost too much when the 1979 Diebolt-Vallois à Cramant arrived; almost, but not quite.  The Champagne was a stunning medium/dark golden color with a fine mousse.  Though it had reached full maturity, it was not a bit tired.  Both in the glass and on the palate, what struck me most was the combination of apple pie, tart green apples, cinnamon and nutmeg spice, and delightful creaminess.
These pairings made for an unforgettable evening, showcasing the incredible possibilites when the best in food and wine are enjoyed together.

 
The winter months are the perfect time to explore sweet wines. Their viscosity, length and ultimate natural sweetness are ideal attributes to take the chill out of the air. I have to confess, I’m a fan of “Sweet Nectar," “Stickies” or “Liquid Gold” as the category is commonly referred to. However, one elixir that truly stands out for me is Hungarian Tokaji and the house putting this rare and historic beverage in the forefront is the Royal Tokaji Wine Company.

Like many great beverages, Hungarian Tokaji was created accidently  in the early 1600s. In 1700, Prince Rakoczi of Transylvania passed a decree to classify certain noted vineyards in the northeastern part of the country as 1st Growth, 2nd Growth and 3rd Growth. The Tokaji region was technically the first European viticultural region to institute a vineyard classification system, so move over Bordeaux.  Over the years, Tokaji Aszú (ah-SOO) has been a status symbol enjoyed by many royal courts from Louis XIV of France to the Russian Czars. It has been well documented that the Cossacks protected the most precious nectar, “Aszú Essencia,” while it was in transport to the Czar’s Palace in St. Petersburg.

After the fall of Communism in the late 1980s, the region started to make a comeback from decades of neglect. Noted English wine author Hugh Johnson and several others invested in one of the most esteemed wineries and its claim to top cru-rated vineyards. In 1989, The Royal Tokaji Wine Company was reborn, marking the beginning of the “Tokaji Renaissance” during which millions of dollars have been reinvested in the region, a recently designated World Heritage Site.

                                        

Similar to Sémillon from the Sauternes district, Tokaji fruit is susceptible to Botrytis Cinerea, (noble rot), due to mists that form at the confluence of the Tisza and Bodrog Rivers. The noble rot dries and shrivels the three notable varietals of the region: Furmint, Hárslevelú and Muscat. Tokaji Aszú has several categories of sweetness based on the measurement of noble rot-affected grapes that are kneaded into a paste and transported in 20-liter wooden tubs called “puttonyo.” The more puttonyos, the sweeter and more syrupy the wine base, which is marked on a 1 to 6 scale. It’s quite apparent that quality starts to kick in when you get to the “5 Puttonyos,” “6 Puttonyos” and “Essencia” levels; the finished product is priced accordingly.

I go bonkers for this stuff and am jazzed that we have three Royal Tokaji Wine Company Aszú(s) on the site, listed below. My mouth starts to water when I think about this rare juice. I refer to it as my “liquid strudel!” Why? I always get a golden raisin nuance throughout the palate spectrum. No other dessert wine category overloads my senses with a combination of flowery aromatics paired with apples, quince, apricots, marmalade and golden raisins. It’s common to detect back palate notes of butterscotch, carmely-brown sugar, honeyed nuts and a dash of chocolate on more aged versions. It’s possible to put a stopwatch on the super long and balanced finish, a true indication of a top-notch dessert wine. These wines are long-lived from the collector's standpoint. It has been documented that an Essencia bottling can age over a century!

I recommend pairing a 4 Puttonyos Aszú with a starter course of seared foie gras or duck liver terrine. The natural high acidity of the wine will cut through the fat of these preparations amazingly well. For the higher level of Puttonyos of 5 and 6 and then the rare Essencia, I suggest simple fruit tart preparations or, with more aged versions, a simple chocolate preparation or aged blue cheese. These wines are ideal food pairing candidates based on their low alcohol levels, which range from 8.5% to 10%. The rare and precious Essencia can be served on its own and quite often is portioned and served on a special tasting spoon!

Vinfolio is proud to showcase:

1999 Aszú Essencia - $449/500ml.
1993 and 1999 will go down as the best and only vintages that the Essencia category was made by the house. Because of its high residual sugar level, (600g/L), this wine fermented for six years and only tipped the scale at 2.9% alcohol. This could arguably be the most precious dessert wine in the world. Move over Château d’Yquem! You can be one of the few to take stock of only 600 bottles imported into the states.

2000 Tokaji Aszú ‘5 Puttonyos’ Birsalmas- $48/500ml. ~ Wine Spectator 94 points
A blend of all three noble varietals and aged in Hungarian oak for 5 years. Only 100 cases imported to the  states. Birsalmas is a single vineyard that translates to “quince.” Thus, the dominating fruit characteristic is indeed quince, backed with carmelized pear and pineapple.

1995 Tokaji Aszú ‘6 Puttonyos’ Mézes Mály- $103/500ml. ~ Wine Spectator 92 points
The Mézes Mály vineyard is one of the most noted 1er Cru vineyards of the district. Many consider it the most floral bottling of the house. Orange blossoms and fresh honey abound with a splash of juicy white peach and baked apple. The vineyard name, translated, means “honey pot." Say no more!

January is time to face the inevitable challenge of sticking to our well-intentioned New Year’s resolutions, so often having to do with our waistlines: a new diet, more exercise, and healthy eating!  You might have already stopped going to the gym, but before you give up completely, consider dessert wines as an easy replacement for high calorie after-dinner treats.  These days, dessert wines are made in just about every region, but the most famous remain Sauternes from Bordeaux, Tokaji from Hungary, and Vin Santo from Tuscany. 

Regardless of origin, all dessert wine is made by concentrating the sugars in the grape.  In the case of Sauternes and Tokaji, the winemakers use grapes that have also been affected by Botrytis, a mold that shrivels the grapes on the vine.  For Vin Santo, the grapes are dried, producing the same effect of concentrating the sugars. Producing these wines from vineyard to bottle is a very laborious process combined with an enormous amount of risk that’s taken with each vintage.   Understanding all that goes into these wines shows what a great value they truly are!  

Sauternes 

Origin: France–Bordeaux.  Five villages comprise the Sauternes region: Sauternes, Barsac, Priegnac, Fargues, and Bommes.

Grapes: Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle.

Brief History: Sauternes most likely began producing sweet wine in the 18^th century, though debate remains on specific dates.  Whether earlier or later, what is certain is the suitability of the region for the production of botrytis-infected nectar.  In late autumn, morning mist settles in the vineyards and then burns off during the warm days, providing perfect conditions for the growth of noble rot. 

In 1855, Sauternes was categorized into a three-tiered hierarchy, with Yquem at the top as the Premier Cru Supérieur (First Great Growth).  The premiers and deuxièmes crus follow and produce high quality, if somewhat less expensive, offerings. 

Browse the complete Vinfolio inventory of Sauternes. 

Some highlights from the Vinfolio wine store include: 

1990 Yquem ($425) 

2003 Yquem ($159) 

1988 Rieussec ($109) 

1990 Suduiraut ($69)

Food Pairing: Try with Foie Gras or mild Roquefort.  Considering the price and complexity of great Sauternes, they are often enjoyed by themselves.

Great Vintages: 2005, 2003, 2001, 1990, 1989, 1988, 1986

Tokaji 

Origin: Hungary – Tokaj-Hegyalja 

Grapes: Furmint, Hárslevelű and Muscat Lunel

Brief History: Tokaji was subject to the world’s first appellation control, beginning in 1730, decades before Port and more than 100 years before Bordeaux. Given Tokaji as a gift in 1703, Louis XIV entitled it the "Wine of Kings, King of Wines."

Tokaji is categorized according to the amount of aszú, or nobly rotten fruit, added to the base wine.  The concentration of the wine ranges from 3 to 6 puttonyos: the higher the number, the more concentrated and sweeter the wine.  The highest level of Tokaji is essencia, which has the highest concentration of flavor, and is therefore the most highly valued. 

Vinfolio currently offers the following selections:

1995 Royal Tokaji - Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos Mezes Maly ($103)

1999 Royal Tokaji - Aszu Essencia ($449)

Food Pairing: Pairs similarly as Sauternes, Tokaji is also ideal with fruit or nut-based based desserts and cheesecake.

Great Vintages: 1988, 1993, 1999, 2000, 2003, 2005

Vin Santo

Origin:  Italy, Tuscany.  Also made on the island of Santorini in Greece.

Grapes: Passito, Trebbiano Toscano, and Malvasia, as well as other local varietals.  There is also a red Vin Santo known as Occhio di Pernice made from Sangiovese and other local varietals.

Brief History: Vin Santo was known as Vin Pretto or “pure wine” prior to the 14^th Century, and was used in religious services.  Later, it became known as Vin Santo, but quality producers still make it in the traditional way.  The grapes are dried on racks and mats then aged in small, often chestnut, barrels known as caratelli.  Typically the barrels are not completely filled to allow a little room for air, which helps with the natural oxidation process.

From the Vinfolio wine store:

1999 Felsina Berardenga - Vin Santo del Chianti Classico ($33)

Food Pairing: Vin Santo goes well with desserts made with dried fruit and nuts, especially pecans, walnuts, and hazelnuts, as well as chocolate and caramel combinations

Great Vintages: There is a separate DOC appellation for Vin Santo, however, in vintage reports it is not separated from Chianti and so follows Chianti’s great vintages: 1997, 1999, 2001, 2004, and 2005.

Serving recommedations

One thing about the three of these wines is that when they are of good quality they all age well and develop beautifully in the bottle. Usually with Sauternes and Tokaji, their lifetime is referred to as timeless. All three of the wines should be served around 52 degrees, however, some people prefer their Vin Santo closer to room temperature.  Remember never serve this wine too cold or you will shut down all of those beautiful aromas.

Speaking of beautiful aromas…

You don’t often see is either Sauternes or Tokaji served in the best glass for this style of wine.   The glass pictured is part of the Sommeliers Line from Riedel and is specifically designed for enjoying these very aromatic wines.  This is a great example of how Riedel engineering makes a significant difference in our enjoyment of the wine in the glass!

As you embark on a new year of wine exploration, I hope the dessert you find in your glass gives you abundant motivation to stick to at least one of your New Year’s resolutions.  If you’re interested in reading more on dessert wines, (and being tempted by food pairings), check out Sweet Wines:  A Guide to the World’s Best with Recipes by James Peterson.

It was my turn to cook for a group of family and friends on New Year’s Eve.  I wanted to keep it simple and stress-free so I could spend more time with everyone.  The goal was to have simple pairings and let the wines show.  This was an easy prep which allowed me to fire and plate in no time.  

The most basic rule of pairing food and wine is to either “mirror” or “oppose” the components and characteristics of the dish and the wine.  Like matching colors, you can either mirror or oppose the different tastes, weights, and textures to create balance.  I chose to build the dishes around the wines.

Provençale Calamari Sautée with Toasted French bread
Wine: 2004 Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet ($50)
The sautée included olive oil, butter, white wine, tomatoes, garlic, lemon juice, and basil.  Niellon’s Chassagne AC is reference standard and an easy “go to.”  I buy this wine every vintage.  The 2004 has great acid, rich, succulent fruit, and a deliciously rich mid-palate.  This was a very simple pairing and a tasty starter.

Seared Mahi Mahi with a Mango Beurre Blanc over a Butternut squash purée
Wine: 2003 Ramonet Bienvenues-Batard Montrachet
I seared these in cast iron pans and finished them in the oven so I could get a nice carmelization on the fish to match the oak in the wine.  Mahi Mahi is meaty enough to stand up to the fatness of the BBM.  BBM is more feminine than Chevalier and has a trademark honeyed character.  The beurre blanc, mango, and the sweetness of the butternut squash were a perfect mirror for the 2003.

Grilled New York Steak with Truffle Butter, Garlic mashed potatoes, and Haricots Verts
Wine: 1999 Guigal Cote-Rotie Chateau d’Ampuis
This is a total no brainer.  I mirrored the smoky, meaty, and earthy components of the steak and truffle butter to this quintessential Cote-Rôtie.  I am always looking for 1999 Cote-Rôtie’s and you should too if you don’t own them already.  The D’Ampuis is sourced from Guigal’s estate vineyards. The first vintage was 1995 and this wine is the little brother of the La La’s (the big 3).  I decanted this for 2 hours and it finally budged.  This wine has tremendous glycerin and is a real mouthful of black fruits, smoke, tapenade, and jerky.

Other wines tasted:
NV Billecart Salmon Rose ($74)—goes unsaid as the best bang for your buck in NV Rose

1999 Dujac Chambolle-Musigny: Elegant, delicate, and perfumed.  All that is Chambolle and Burgundy.  An earthy concoction of red fruits, black cherry, and violets.  Finely detailed and balanced.  I picked up a slight iodine note underneath.  Drinking great now.

I’ve just returned from a car camping trip and have determined that:

    a) Hiking-in is overrated (fine when I'm in my 20s and trying to impress a new boyfriend)
    b) Freeze-dried food is overrated (you can only "adulterate" foam eggs so much)
    c) Beans & weenies do have a complementary wine pairing

While celebrating a cousin's 45th birthday in Sonoma, I realized that "civilized" camping needs to include something other than PBR and Jell-o shots, and much to my delight, my fellow campers admitted as much. Now, don't go changing the chow - these nature retreats/revelries are about the only chance I have to indulge my dark desire for hot dogs, unlimited Lays potato chips, industrial onion dip and marshmallow delights. But, since all the attendees were part of either the food and/or wine industry, we shared an absolute boatload of sparkling and still wines that managed the menu with aplomb. Here's a sampling of what we imbibed and what it matched to:

Ployez-Jacquemart NV Blanc de Blancs: And you thought Slim Jims had no partner! When someone broke out the summer sausage, beef jerky and Greek olives (along with the Cheetos), we popped a few bottles of this and settled in. The delicate purity and streamlined mineral/acid of this bubbly is the perfect foil to salty/savory/greasy fare. It provides lift and refreshment to the palate and readies it for the next bite.

Belle Glos 2006 Pinot Noir Blanc Oeil de Perdrix: Any food fan realizes the worth of a sturdy rosé when it comes to the myriad of flavors a camping trip throws at you. This rosé held up not only with the remnants of the Cheetos, but played right into the potato salad and couscous/spiced sausage portion of the gala. Once again, firm acidity, beautiful strawberry and watermelon fruits, and a bit of palate texture allowed the wine to handle the creamy, spicy, acid components of the pairing.

Yves Cuilleron 2006 "Candives" Syrah: OK, here we go...meat portion of the meal. The men got out their tools and started the routine of debating optimum ember glow, grill height and whether to stick-a-fork-in-it or flip with tongs. Meanwhile, the women, knowing the guys were going to end up dropping half of it into the flames, debated the merits of this lovely vin de table from the terroir of Syrah. This wine is a treat of pure and bright black plum, currants and violets, with a grip that is at once tenacious yet elegant. The bitter chocolate and white pepper spice covered all bases – hot dogs, steak and lamb sirloin.

Royal Tokaji – Tokaji Aszu "Birsalmas" 5 Puttonyos: OK, I have to admit, this is a bit esoteric, but I do have a Vizsla whose name is Puttonyo, and all my friends are wine geeks...go figure. Knowing the bakers that were going to be bringing their wares, as well as the marshmallow frenzy that would occur, I figured something with dried fruit characteristics and a stunning acid structure should do justice to all comers. And boy, did it perform! Not only with the sweet, gooey marshmallow, but with the pumpkin pie, biscotti and shortbread. Realize that Tokaji, even though it is a dessert wine, has such great acidity, that it is not cloying on the palate. Also, a little goes a long way.

Here were a few others that were enjoyed as well...my editor is pleading space constraints.

Jean Vesselle NV Brut "Oeil de Perdrix," Alvaro Palacios 2005 "Les Terrasses," Bouissiere 2005 Gigondas "Font de Tonin," Pelissero 2004 "I Piani" Barbera d’Alba.

 

Last night Food & Wine celebrated the 10th anniversary of its American Wine Awards at the de Young Museum in San Francisco. Awards honored participants in the following categories: Winery of the Year (Long Shadow), Best Wines $20 and Under (seven selections), Wine Importer of the Year (Kermit Lynch), Best Wines Over $20 (eight selections), and Winemaker of the Year (Robert Foley). The event also featured food pairings from local restaurants and top chefs.

My favorite two wines of the evening were the 2006 Westerly Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc ($19) from Santa Ynez Valley and the 2003 Calera Pinot Noir Selleck Vineyard ($60) from Mt Harlan. The Sauvignon Blanc was among two white wines awarded in the category “Best Wines $20 and Under,” while the 2003 Calera Pinot Noir Selleck Vineyard was one of six red wines awarded in the category “Best Wines over $20.” Below are some of my notes as well as F&W’s recipes for suggested food pairings:

2006 Westerly Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc
This Sauvignon Blanc really impressed me for its intensity and complexity of the nose; it has a strong minerality and vibrant grapefruit aromas that might lead one to mistake it for Sancerre. The grapes here are sourced from the Happy Canyon in the southern portion of Santa Barbara’s Santa Ynez Valley. The wine’s vibrancy is likely derived from the Canyon’s contrast in diurnal temperatures, warm days and cool nights, which create a concentration of flavor in the grapes. The acidity on the palate gave me a pleasurable pucker as well as the long lasting flavors of citrus, limestone, and floral notes. This well-priced Sauvignon Blanc would pair excellently with the following foods:  

    * Grilled Antipasto with Garlicky Bean Dip
    * Frisée Salad with Baked Goat Cheese and Bacon
    * Provençal-Style Lemon Sole

2003 Calera Pinot Noir Selleck Vineyard
Josh Jensen’s Pinots never fail to catch my attention. This Pinot was no exception with its subtlety on the nose and palate, as well as its multi-layered texture displaying bright red fruits (cherry, plum, and currant) and sweet spice (cinnamon and cloves). As I have found with so many of Calera’s Pinots, this wine will surely age well for over a decade providing increased nuance and complexity to its bouquet as it develops over time. Below are F&W’s recipes for food pairings, my favorite being the Roast Guinea Hen. I think a Calera Pinot-Guinea Hen combination would be a great alternative to the typical Thanksgiving turkey dinner. Let me know if you try it!

    * Fresh Shell Bean Soup with Pistou
    * Roast Guinea Hens with Cumin-Date Sauce
    * Grilled Broccoli with Anchovy Dressing

I’m always up for a tough food and wine pairing challenge – it makes you reeeeallllly think about the components of each, it is a great learning experience, and while the opportunity for great reward is high, the stakes usually are not. However, my most recent challenge brought with it unusual difficulty and abnormally high stakes. The occasion is my wedding dinner and in choosing some tasty, memorable wines for the head table (my apologies to the other tables) realized that we fell in love with a horribly difficult entrée with which to pair red wine. As a wine “professional,” I pretty much have to deliver on this or our guests will be disappointed on several levels.

First course is a walk in the park – fresh heirloom tomatoes with sheep’s milk ricotta, capers and fruity olive oil, paired with a 2000 Boillot Puligny Pucelles ($89). Bingo. Main course is grilled lamb (not difficult), but sided with Mediterranean-spiced couscous, drizzled with a complex chermoula sauce (fresh cilantro, parsley, ginger and pungent chilies, among other things), is a different story. I’d normally say a rich, complex Riesling Spatlese or Auslese would do the trick with its acidity and residual sugar, but the geek factor is high and inappropriate for a celebration.

Long story, but we happened across a 1997 Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano ($119), although we would not have normally turned to a Piedmontese wine. The overtly ripe quality of the vintage, held in check and in balance by a true winemaking master, has the sweetness of fruit and requisite acidity to match the complex flavors and spices. The wine has cinnamon, anise, cherry and earthy notes which all meld well with the overall profile of the dish. And since the entrée isn’t at all heavy, the Burgundian weight of old-style Barbaresco is perfect.

This is a great red wine at its peak, but my guess is that it won’t continue to offer this level of pleasure for more than 3-4 years. Look into the 1999 Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano ($109) if you want to ensure this experience for years to come. It’s a wine that should come into its own any day now and will likely surpass the quality of the 1997.

I recently hosted a dinner party during which we paired a crisp white Rioja, 2006 Bodegas Ostatu Blanco Rioja Alavesa, with various appetizers including prosciutto wrapped cantaloupe, salumi, and several hard cheeses. Although I often enjoy Rioja’s Tempranillo-based reds, it is a far rarer occurrence for me to try the whites. The Ostatu Blanco, made from 90% Viura and 10% Malvasia grapes, had a very clean, unoaked flavor profile recalling citrus, tangerine and mineral aromas, as well as herbs and salty green apple on the palate. The main grape Viura (also known as Macabeo in the sparkling Spanish wine Cava), is the most widely planted white grape variety in northern Spain which displays a natural aromatic freshness. As was the case with the Ostatu, wines made from Viura are dry, medium in acidity, and display floral and nutty characteristics. The Ostatu grapes came from 60-70 year old vines that grow in chalky, clay soils. We were all pleased with the crisp flavors from the Rioja Blanco which continued to serve as a great pair to grilled shrimp skewers with pineapple and bell pepper. The lush fruit on the palate served as a compliment to the tropical notes on the skewer, with just the right body weight to not be overpowering. What makes this wine even more attractive is its reasonable price at a mere $14 a bottle.

For the main course we enjoyed grilled steak and asparagus with a magnum of 2001 Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou. I had poured the bottle into a magnum-sized Riedel O Series decanter at least an hour beforehand, to allow the wine to breathe. The results were wonderful! We enjoyed the soft cassis and earthy flavors that emerged, which melded seamlessly with the smoky, juicy flavors of our tenderloin. As James Suckling describes, the 2001 Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou has “loads of crushed berries on the nose, with hints of flowers and minerals. Very aromatic. Full-bodied, with fine tannins and a long, cappuccino and berry aftertaste. Really refined.” (Wine Spectator, March, 31, 2004)

The meal concluded with a serving of ripe black cherries and dark chocolate, whose flavors served to highlight even more of the red fruit and silky texture of Bordeaux. If anything, I think the Bordeaux could develop a more subtle bouquet with increased bottle age, but it was still a delight to taste in its early years. In the end, the evening was a success and epicurean treat for all.