January is time to face the inevitable challenge of sticking to our well-intentioned New Year’s resolutions, so often having to do with our waistlines: a new diet, more exercise, and healthy eating! You might have already stopped going to the gym, but before you give up completely, consider dessert wines as an easy replacement for high calorie after-dinner treats. These days, dessert wines are made in just about every region, but the most famous remain Sauternes from Bordeaux, Tokaji from Hungary, and Vin Santo from Tuscany.
Regardless of origin, all dessert wine is made by concentrating the sugars in the grape. In the case of Sauternes and Tokaji, the winemakers use grapes that have also been affected by Botrytis, a mold that shrivels the grapes on the vine. For Vin Santo, the grapes are dried, producing the same effect of concentrating the sugars. Producing these wines from vineyard to bottle is a very laborious process combined with an enormous amount of risk that’s taken with each vintage. Understanding all that goes into these wines shows what a great value they truly are!
Sauternes
Origin: France–Bordeaux. Five villages comprise the Sauternes region: Sauternes, Barsac, Priegnac, Fargues, and Bommes.
Grapes: Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle.
Brief History: Sauternes most likely began producing sweet wine in the 18th century, though debate remains on specific dates. Whether earlier or later, what is certain is the suitability of the region for the production of botrytis-infected nectar. In late autumn, morning mist settles in the vineyards and then burns off during the warm days, providing perfect conditions for the growth of noble rot.
In 1855, Sauternes was categorized into a three-tiered hierarchy, with Yquem at the top as the Premier Cru Supérieur (First Great Growth). The premiers and deuxièmes crus follow and produce high quality, if somewhat less expensive, offerings.
Browse the complete Vinfolio inventory of Sauternes.
Some highlights from the Vinfolio wine store include:
1990 Yquem ($425)
2003 Yquem ($159)
1988 Rieussec ($109)
1990 Suduiraut ($69)
Food Pairing: Try with Foie Gras or mild Roquefort. Considering the price and complexity of great Sauternes, they are often enjoyed by themselves.
Great Vintages: 2005, 2003, 2001, 1990, 1989, 1988, 1986
Tokaji
Origin: Hungary – Tokaj-Hegyalja
Grapes: Furmint, Hárslevelű and Muscat Lunel
Brief History: Tokaji was subject to the world’s first appellation control, beginning in 1730, decades before Port and more than 100 years before Bordeaux. Given Tokaji as a gift in 1703, Louis XIV entitled it the "Wine of Kings, King of Wines."
Tokaji is categorized according to the amount of aszú, or nobly rotten fruit, added to the base wine. The concentration of the wine ranges from 3 to 6 puttonyos: the higher the number, the more concentrated and sweeter the wine. The highest level of Tokaji is essencia, which has the highest concentration of flavor, and is therefore the most highly valued.
Vinfolio currently offers the following selections:
1995 Royal Tokaji - Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos Mezes Maly ($103)
1999 Royal Tokaji - Aszu Essencia ($449)
Food Pairing: Pairs similarly as Sauternes, Tokaji is also ideal with fruit or nut-based based desserts and cheesecake.
Great Vintages: 1988, 1993, 1999, 2000, 2003, 2005
Vin Santo
Origin: Italy, Tuscany. Also made on the island of Santorini in Greece.
Grapes: Passito, Trebbiano Toscano, and Malvasia, as well as other local varietals. There is also a red Vin Santo known as Occhio di Pernice made from Sangiovese and other local varietals.
Brief History: Vin Santo was known as Vin Pretto or “pure wine” prior to the 14th Century, and was used in religious services. Later, it became known as Vin Santo, but quality producers still make it in the traditional way. The grapes are dried on racks and mats then aged in small, often chestnut, barrels known as caratelli. Typically the barrels are not completely filled to allow a little room for air, which helps with the natural oxidation process.
From the Vinfolio wine store:
1999 Felsina Berardenga - Vin Santo del Chianti Classico ($33)
Food Pairing: Vin Santo goes well with desserts made with dried fruit and nuts, especially pecans, walnuts, and hazelnuts, as well as chocolate and caramel combinations
Great Vintages: There is a separate DOC appellation for Vin Santo, however, in vintage reports it is not separated from Chianti and so follows Chianti’s great vintages: 1997, 1999, 2001, 2004, and 2005.
Serving recommedations
One thing about the three of these wines is that when they are of good quality they all age well and develop beautifully in the bottle. Usually with Sauternes and Tokaji, their lifetime is referred to as timeless. All three of the wines should be served around 52 degrees, however, some people prefer their Vin Santo closer to room temperature. Remember never serve this wine too cold or you will shut down all of those beautiful aromas.
Speaking of beautiful aromas…
You don’t often see is either Sauternes or Tokaji served in the best glass for this style of wine. The glass pictured is part of the Sommeliers Line from Riedel and is specifically designed for enjoying these very aromatic wines. This is a great example of how Riedel engineering makes a significant difference in our enjoyment of the wine in the glass!
As you embark on a new year of wine exploration, I hope the dessert you find in your glass gives you abundant motivation to stick to at least one of your New Year’s resolutions. If you’re interested in reading more on dessert wines, (and being tempted by food pairings), check out Sweet Wines: A Guide to the World’s Best with Recipes by James Peterson.
