Vinfolio Blog

I am not afraid to say some of my favorite wines are rosé Champagnes! Historically, these wines first gained popularity in the early nineteenth century with the British and Russians. However, it was not until the 1980s that prestige rosé Champagne was produced in any quantity. Rosé Champagnes (Champagne rosé) are often more prized and costly than their golden counterparts. The higher price is due largely to the scarcity of it on the market and the difficulty to produce it. Rosés represent just 3-5% of all Champagne exports.

Part of the intrigue for me is the color, as the spectrum ranges from pale pink to deep coppery salmon. When young, rosés can have a reddish-blue tinge and turn almost orange to amber with 10-20 years of age. When I taste, I become absorbed by the variety of flavors and the subtlety of secondary notes that appear in my glass. Rosés are assumed to be sweet and fruity, but the majority are dry with delicate notes of spice (cinnamon, clove, ginger, pepper), berry (strawberry, raspberry), fruit (apple, pear, plum, orange, nectarine, apricot, peach), flowers (blossoms, elderflower, rose) nuts (walnut, hazelnut, almond), autolysis (toast, yeast), minerals (stony/steely, petrol) and ripeness (carmel, honey). 

Champagne Blends
Champagne is typically produced from three main grape varietals: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. Most Champagnes are blends of all three grapes, although Blanc de Blancs indicates the use of 100% Chardonnay and Blanc de Noirs indicates the use of 100% red grapes (Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier or a blend of the two). The Blanc de Noirs (white from red) Champagnes are considered "white" despite their slightly pink-tinged color. True rosés always include at least some portion of red grapes (traditionally 8-20% Bouzy Rouge still wine) and in some cases are 100% Pinot Noir. Depending on the varietal blend, rosés are often more rich and full than their white counterparts. The pink color comes from the Pinot Noir skins since the juice itself is colorless.

Two production methods for rosés
1) Historical method (known as maceration or saignée method) – After crush, the base wine sits in contact with Pinot Noir skins to pick up color. With skin contact the wine may show more raspberry and strawberry aromas.
2) Most common and modern method – Still Pinot Noir wine is added into each Champagne bottle before the second fermentation (part of the liqueur de tirage). It may take longer for the wine to fully integrate because of the mix.

My all-time favorite rosé Champagnes and international rosé sparklers
Some of my favorites include NV Krug Rosé (used to toast at my wedding with my husband and bridesmaids), NV Gosset Grand Rosé, 1993 Pol Roger Rosé, 1997 Nicolas Feuillatte Palmes d’Or Rosé (had subtle notes of orange and spice), NV Ruinart Rosé, 1997 Laurent-Perrier Brut Rose Grand Siecle Cuvée Alexandria (made for their daughter’s wedding; I thought it was an excellent pair with lobster salad). As I am a big fan of Taittinger’s Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs, I am eager to sample their vintage rosé selections (see Vinfolio wine list below).

Outside of Champagne, I have also found good value sparkling rosés including: NV Ferrari Rosé (Trentino-Alto, Italy), NV Janz Rosé (Tasmania), NV Louis Bouillot Crémant de Bourgogne Rosé ''Perle d'Aurore'' (Burgundy), NV Allimant Laugner Crémant d'Alsace Rosé (Alsace), and NV Roederer Estate Rosé (Anderson Valley, California).

A selection of Vinfolio’s current offerings:
NV Lafitte, Charles - Brut Rosé ($35)
2002 Lenoble, AR - Vintage Brut Rosé ($40)
NV Ayala - Brut Rosé ($45)
NV Billecart-Salmon - Brut Rosé ($74)
NV Egly-Ouriet - Brut Rosé ($74)
1985 Veuve Clicquot - Rare Vintage Rosé ($96)
1988 Heidsieck & Co Monopole - Vintage Diamant Rosé ($100)
2000 Taittinger - Comtes de Champagne Rosé ($178)
1990 Veuve Clicquot - La Grande Dame Rosé (1.5L / $525)
1995 Roederer, Louis - Cristal Rosé ($659)
1995 Moet & Chandon - Dom Perignon Rosé (1.5L / $887)

Click here to see Vinfolio’s entire range of rosé Champagne

Doesn’t quite rhyme, but you get the drift - a perfect combination for a Saturday afternoon enjoying the beautiful weather in San Francisco with Champagne and caviar.  As with all great food and wine, the timing of when, where and with whom, makes all the difference in the world when it comes to those special memories.

After abandoning my snow shovel in Boston last fall to move to San Francisco, I thought the nonstop January rain would never end.  Thankfully for me, this has all changed. This past Saturday I had a good friend come into town from the Sacramento area that was in desperate need for some San Francisco sophistication, shopping and great food.  

Of course we had to shop, but the highlight of the day was taking a much needed break at Absinthe Brasserie and Bar in the Hayes Valley for an afternoon glass of wine and a light snack.  We scored a great table outside and decided on an ounce of Osetra caviar and some NV Henriot Brut Champagne.

Henriot is a top Champagne producer from the Reims area in Champagne.  They are known for their quality and fresh style.  Part of this comes from the fact that they use only very small quantities, if any, of Pinot Meunier and, a higher concentration than most, of Chardonnay.  As an example, the Non-Vintage Brut is composed of 40% Chardonnay and 60% Pinot Noir.  Currently we have the '96 Vintage Henriot in stock in 750ml ($66) and magnum ($139), both of which are a fantastic value for the money.

The saltiness of the caviar and champagne, the weight of the wine combined with the weight of the blini’s and caviar.  What can I say, a fine mousse, crisp, fresh, complex and last but least…….elegant. Of course we didn’t want to ruin our dinner at Spruce; I’ll save that for another blog!

The Holiday Season is in full swing rolling into the second week of December, as a barrage of holiday parties brings up the question of which beverage to bring to the party to elevate good cheer as well as complement a diversity of foods. My first recommendation is Champagne, specifically the “Single Grower” category. Many overlook Champagne because they think they have to jump to the $100 to $150 range to procure a grand bubbly. On the contrary, a stream of family-run and estate grown operations have been making their way into the U.S. in record numbers since the early 1990s. It’s not just about the “Big Boys” based in Epernay and Reims anymore. Production from this small band of producers is still a drop in the bucket when you consider that the top three Champagne brands account for over 65% of all the Champagne imported into this country.  

Wake up America! We have more choices than ever when it comes to excellent bubbly, and certain American retailers are taking a stance in the right direction, showcasing a variety of houses that emphasize their sense of place. Furthermore, these family-owned and operated houses frequently source from highly rated Grand Cru vineyards, in comparison to the luxury houses who only implement top-rated fruit in their most exclusive bottlings. Many of the luxury goods houses market a non-vintage category that is sweetened for the American palate. By law, a non-vintage Brut can receive a dose of sugar of up to 15 grams per liter. Many of the most recognizable and most mass produced non-vintage brands hit this mark. On the flip side, many of the “Single Grower” houses advertise a much lower dosage of sugar, averaging 6 to 9 grams per liter, allowing minerality and subtle fruit nuances to be revealed. Furthermore, many of these houses use a high percentage of Grand Cru rated fruit to make up the base for their entry level, non-vintage or multi-vintage category. You may need to spend an additional $5 to $15 on certain small house selections, but the rewards are tremendous, revealing Champagne as a truly serious wine, on par with high quality Burgundy!

I encourage the American wine public to make a New Year’s resolution to drink better quality Champagne and to demand more choices on its retail shelves from the “Single Grower” movement. The longer you are around fine wine, the more you will appreciate Champagne for its food pairing capabilities, diversity in site selection and style diversity. Vinfolio catalogues a healthy array of small producers from the non-vintage category to the vintage dated reserve cuvée. Below are six efforts that speak volumes for quality, making you seriously contemplate the unique and spectacular nature of Champagne.

Rene Geoffroy Brut 'Expression' NV   $42.00 / IWC 90

Move over Veuve ‘Yellow Label’! Geoffroy’s entry level is far from being on training wheels. It doesn’t get better for the category. Recently disgorged, 11/06, it’s split between the ’03 and ’04 vintage (24% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Meunier and 18% Pinot Noir). Be amazed by its refinement.

Rene Geoffroy Vintage Brut 1er Cru 1999   $65.00 / BH 92

The family traces ownership of their vineyards in Cumieres back to the 17^th century. This house specializes in ageing its base wines in oak foudres without malolactic fermentation. The 1999 is equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that is 100% wood vinified. This is precious nectar! Vinfolio was fortunate to source a few cases.

Roger Coulon Brut Millesime 2002    $58.00 / IWC 92

The cellars are based in Vrigny, although Eric and Isabelle Coulon own nine hectares spread across five different villages. The holdings have a high percentage of Pinot Meunier that average 40 to 60 years of age. The 2002 is approximately equal parts Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.

Jean Milan Vintage Brut 'Terres de Noel' 2002   $79.00 / IWC 92

You can’t talk about Chardonnay-driven estates without mentioning this Oger-based superstar. ‘Terres de Noel’ is a 50 year-old parcel that remains one of the finest of all the Blanc de Blancs. The 2002 vintage has been considered the best Chardonnay vintage since the heralded 1996. Tasty now, but will age gracefully for another 3 to 6 years.

Pierre Gimonnet 'Brut Paradoxe'1er Cru 2002   $49.00 / IWC 92

Growers in the village of Cuis since 1750, this house specializes in Chardonnay. However, the ‘Paradoxe’ incorporates 50% Pinot Noir from the ‘Les Clefs’ climat in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. The Pinot Noir really shines on the nose!

Bruno Paillard 'Brut Millesime Assemblage' 1996     $55.00 / IWC 92

The house of Paillard, based in Reims, is the vision of Bruno Paillard, who built the house from scratch. This was one of the first firms to include disgorgement dates on the back label.  The 1996 vintage is one of my favorites for this spectacular vintage at a song of a price.

I’ve just returned from a car camping trip and have determined that:

    a) Hiking-in is overrated (fine when I'm in my 20s and trying to impress a new boyfriend)
    b) Freeze-dried food is overrated (you can only "adulterate" foam eggs so much)
    c) Beans & weenies do have a complementary wine pairing

While celebrating a cousin's 45th birthday in Sonoma, I realized that 'civilized' camping needs to include something other than PBR and Jell-o shots, and much to my delight, my fellow campers admitted as much. Now, don't go changing the chow - these nature retreats/revelries are about the only chance I have to indulge my dark desire for hot dogs, unlimited Lays potato chips, industrial onion dip and marshmallow delights. But, since all the attendees were part of either the food and/or wine industry, we shared an absolute boatload of sparkling and still wines that managed the menu with aplomb. Here's a sampling of what we imbibed and what it matched to:

Ployez-Jacquemart NV Blanc de Blancs: And you thought Slim Jims had no partner! When someone broke out the summer sausage, beef jerky and Greek olives (along with the Cheetos), we popped a few bottles of this and settled in. The delicate purity and streamlined mineral/acid of this bubbly is the perfect foil to salty/savory/greasy fare. It provides lift and refreshment to the palate and readies it for the next bite.

Belle Glos 2006 Pinot Noir Blanc Oeil de Perdrix: Any food fan realizes the worth of a sturdy rosé when it comes to the myriad of flavors a camping trip throws at you. This rosé held up not only with the remnants of the Cheetos, but played right into the potato salad and couscous/spiced sausage portion of the gala. Once again, firm acidity, beautiful strawberry and watermelon fruits, and a bit of palate texture allowed the wine to handle the creamy, spicy, acid components of the pairing.

Yves Cuilleron 2006 "Candives" Syrah: OK, here we go...meat portion of the meal. The men got out their tools and started the routine of debating optimum ember glow, grill height and whether to stick-a-fork-in-it or flip with tongs. Meanwhile, the women, knowing the guys were going to end up dropping half of it into the flames, debated the merits of this lovely vin de table from the terroir of Syrah. This wine is a treat of pure and bright black plum, currants and violets, with a grip that is at once tenacious yet elegant. The bitter chocolate and white pepper spice covered all bases – hot dogs, steak and lamb sirloin.

Royal Tokaji – Tokaji Aszu "Birsalmas" 5 Puttonyos: OK, I have to admit, this is a bit esoteric, but I do have a Vizsla whose name is Puttonyo, and all my friends are wine geeks...go figure. Knowing the bakers that were going to be bringing their wares, as well as the marshmallow frenzy that would occur, I figured something with dried fruit characteristics and a stunning acid structure should do justice to all comers. And boy, did it perform! Not only with the sweet, gooey marshmallow, but with the pumpkin pie, biscotti and shortbread. Realize that Tokaji, even though it is a dessert wine, has such great acidity, that it is not cloying on the palate. Also, a little goes a long way.

Here were a few others that were enjoyed as well...my editor is pleading space constraints.

Jean Vesselle NV Brut "Oeil de Perdrix," Alvaro Palacios 2005 "Les Terrasses," Bouissiere 2005 Gigondas "Font de Tonin," Pelissero 2004 "I Piani" Barbera d’Alba.

 

As girls are known to shop, I decided to compile my own personal wish list from Vinfolio’s wine store. Over the coming years I would like to considerably expand my collection so that it represents a diverse selection of wine regions and vintages. Although I have a tendency towards the Old World, I also favor many wines from Oregon, cool-climate California and New Zealand.  

My favorite wines tend to have high acid (Champagne, Riesling, Chablis, Brunello) and reflect a sense of terroir (Burgundy, Bordeaux). I especially enjoy the influence of chalky soils in Champagne (from oyster fossils in the Kimmeridgian soil), the role of limestone and clay on Merlot in St. Emilion, the mineral notes of slate in Mosel Riesling, and the ripe, rustic quality imparted to Aglianico or Galioppo grapes by volcanic soils in southern Italy. I also love the concentrated flavors of wines whose vines have had to struggle, whether grown on a mountaintop or by restricted yields (perhaps through a green harvest). High altitude climates (Argentina), coastal breezes and ocean currents (the Benguela Current near South Africa, the Humboldt Current off Chile, and the California Current along the Pacific NW) also bring clarity and intensity of flavor. There are so many factors to producing great wine that it makes the discovery process (through tasting, of course) all the more fun!

I think a good cellar should have a mix of every day wines (albeit tasty ones) and special event, collector bottles that benefit from aging. Here is a start to my wish list, beginning in France (to be continued in later posts):

Champagne – The ideal aperitif and palate stimulant, whether white or rose.
Good value, every day favorites:
    NV Lafitte, Charles Brut Rosé $35
    NV Ruinart Brut Rosé (375ml) $35 – one of the original Champagne houses
    NV Jean Vesselle Brut Oeil de Perdrix $38 – with a beautiful salmon color
    NV Egly-Ouriet Brut Tradition $54
    NV Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé $66 – a classic rosé

Luxury bubbles for special events (1990 and 1996 are especially good vintages):
    NV Krug Grande Cuvée $127 – a Champagne staple
    1998 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne $129 – the 1990 is also amazing
    1990 Heidsieck, Charles Brut Blanc des Millénaires $135
    1996 Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill $159 – so classy and brilliant
    NV Bollinger Brut Special Cuvée (1.5L) $225 – creamy and big for parties
    1990 Möet & Chandon Dom Perignon (1.5L) $850 – everyone must have Dom!
    1996 Krug Clos du Mesnil $1,065 – yes, we can dream of the ideal Grand Cru

White Burgundy – Where Chardonnay reveals minerality, clarity, and complexity.
The values:
    2005 Long-Depaquit Chablis Les Vaillons 1er Cru $25
    2005 Daniel et Martine Barraud Pouilly-Fuisse La Verchère $36
    1996 Latour-Giraud Meursault Narvaux $39 - one with some age
    2004 Long-Depaquit Chablis Blanchots $42 – a Grand Cru at an amazing price
    2000 Henri Germain et Fils Meursault Les Charmes 1er Cru $59

The collector items:
    2004 Raveneau Chablis Les Forêts 1er Cru $75 - another classic producer
    2004 Marc Colin Corton-Charlemagne $79 - this made a friend become a Burgundy believer
    2002 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne $94
    2004 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru $133
    2004 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet $196 - gotta love Leflaive
    2004 Comtes Lafon Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru $349
    1998 Ramonet Montrachet $599 – a true life experience
    1996 Michel Niellon Chevalier-Montrachet $950 – ditto
    1989 Ramonet Montrachet $1,899 – we’re at the pinnacle here!

I see that my thoughts stayed with the high acid whites; next time I’ll peruse the reds. Cheers and happy collecting! What’s on your list?

We at Vinfolio find ourselves talking about our wine experiences quite often, and one question returns to me...why don't people drink more Champagne? By and large people only buy Champagne for special occasions, as if our day to day lives aren't worth celebrating.

May I extrapolate that people have nothing to celebrate?

I have a friend whose wine collection contains of 3,000+ bottles of Champagne. His portfolio taught us both a lot about Champagne’s versatility. Over the course of two years we drank Champagne with everything, and I discovered a strong affection for the selections from Egly-Ouriet. Vinfolio currently features their NV Brut Les Vignes de Vrigny 1er Cru ($54) and NV Brut Tradition ($54).

Egly-Ouriet’s wines hail from the region of Ambonnay, just Northeast of Champagne, from only 8 hectares (19 acres) of Grand Cru fruit.  It is amazing that these wines are still very affordable. His vines age from 30-50 years and sit on their yeasts for a minimum of 3 years. During the aging period, the process known as autolysis occurs where the dead yeast cells (or lees) from the secondary fermentation release complex flavor compounds in the wine creating desirable toasty, yeasty, biscuit-like flavors. These flavors are what define the rich style and subtlety of my favorite bubbles. And what’s even more— Egly-Ouriet wines are also unfiltered, a practice not the norm for Champagne.

So, I ask again, can we find something in our daily meanderings to celebrate?

With the passing of Memorial Day, the outdoor barbecue season is in full swing. Spark up the grill and let’s start grilling! Summer outdoor parties demand food friendly wines such as crisp light-bodied whites, savory rosés and hearty, but fruity new-world reds. However, don’t forget one of the most versatile categories, Champagne. As a nation, we tend to think of the precious ‘Méthode Champenoise’ for sacred ceremonies, milestone celebrations and exclusive dinner parties, but there is no better time to experience small production Champagne. The wines from this band of family growers are now coming to the states in record numbers.

Sure you can spring for a ‘Grande Marque’ like Cristal or Dom Perignon, but it can set you back a few bucks. Labels aren’t everything when you’re hosting friends and family for a summer gathering. Our site consistently features older vintages of these luxury cuvées and sometimes in larger formats. However, don’t overlook the savvy deals found in the ‘Single-Grower’ category. In most cases, these estates have been family owned for a few centuries and historically have sold top rated premier and grand cru grapes to the larger luxury houses. Today, many of these houses are featured by the glass at some of the most touted restaurants and cafés in America. More often than not, these unsung wonders retail between $35.00 and $75.00. You’re not paying for a commercial brand here, but what’s in the bottle. In more instances than not, these houses stress an assemblage of highly rated premier and grand cru rated fruit, which is typically estate owned.

Browse through the site and you will find unknown gems like Chartogne-Taillet, Egly-Ouriet, Jean Vesselle, Alain Soutiran and Pierre Gimonnet to name a few. These Champagnes don’t need a special occasion or ceremony to toast with, but just the right food to pair with to make for a memorable palate experience. Below you will find some highlights of the ‘Single-Grower’ portfolio in which the importance of terroir (sense of place) and a whole lot of complexity meet.

1999 Chartogne-Taillet “Cuvée Fiacre” Brut, Merfy        $58.00

Noted Champagne Expert and author, Tom Stevenson raves about the “Cuvée Fiacre” and I tend to agree. A blend of old-vine Chardonnay (60%) & Pinot Noir (40%) that is expressive of jasmine and orange blossom on the nose followed by plenty of mineralized pear and quince. The finish sings with a contrast of dazzling acidity and notes of talc n’ chalk. The 1999 has just started to open up to become a divine accompaniment for some cracked crab or shrimp toast.

NV Egly-Ouriet Brut Tradition, Ambonnay        $54.00

The name ‘Egly’ doesn’t conjure a glorious image, but close you eyes and taste any of their bottlings and you will instantly understand why avid Champagne lovers stock their cellars with Egly Ouriet by the case. Francis Egly is at the top of the small grower elite, with his estate located in the heart of the Côte de Noirs. He specifically owns grand cru vineyards in Bouzy, Verzenay and Ambonnay. The house has claim to some of the finest Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier in the appellation. His non-vintage is 100% grand cru sourced from 35 to 40-year-old vines, typically two thirds Pinot Noir and one third Chardonnay. The Pinot really resonates through the mouth conjuring flavor profiles of raspberries, cranberries, lime zest and roses. Not many non-vintage have this long of a finish. How about pulling out the Pork butt from the smoker for pull pork sandwiches or perhaps a spicy Cuban Pork sandwich?  

NV Jean Vesselle Rosé Saignée Brut, Bouzy         $40.00

Delphine Vesselle has taken over the helm with tremendous success, considering her father, Jean Vesselle passed away in 1996. The 300 year old estate is located in the village of Bouzy, most famous for its Pinot Noir. I personally crave for Vesselle Rosé every chance I get. A wonderful hue and pinpoint bubbles ignites the senses. A noble Champagne indeed, with the body and palate of a red wine. Wildflowers with luscious wild strawberries and cherries will please any Pinot lover. Can we get some wild salmon on the grill? Please!!

2000 Alain Soutiran Brut Millesime, Ambonnay        $39.00

Maison Alain Soutiran is another Ambonnay house that is known for Pinot Noir. One of only 17 houses granted grand cru status. Back in the 1970s, Alain Soutiran pulled the family grapes out of the huge local cooperative to begin fashioning one of the region’s full-bodied Champagnes, showcasing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from 35 to 40 year old vines. His wine is a delicate balance between refinement, power and finesse. The 2000 Grand Cru Brut struts harmonious layers of apple, quince, candied lemon and toasty yeast flavors, all leading to a super bone-dry finish. This effort would work wonders with a firm and meaty grilled white fish like Mahi Mahi or Chilean Sea Bass napped with a spicy fruit salsa or Thai spice rub.