Vinfolio Blog

     

Some days it’s difficult to see the forest through the trees. Such seems to be the current state of affairs with California Cabernet. Visualize it as such – first, you have the majestic Redwoods, Sequoias (yes, I know they grow in different areas, but work with me here) and Sugar pines (tallest pine in California, by the way.) These I liken to the cult wines of California, those which are exceptional and excellent in their own right. However, they tend to overshadow the saplings of the wine world; those healthy, stalwart and indigenous workhorses that strive to gain your attention and show you that it’s not only a score and a sexy outfit that define quality and deliciousness.

For an idea of what you should be paying attention to, I’ve put together a list of wines that may not have wowed the usual suspects (the Anointed 3 of critics), but then again, when are they always at 100%? As we all know, it’s a specific and static place in time the way a score is given – who knows, that day a critic may have not been on top of his game, had it in for a particular wine, fought with his/her significant other or just had a bad palate day.

Here is what I think those that truly love/loved great classic cab/proprietary blends (the way we remember the Montelena, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, pre-1987 BV Reserve, etc.) are going to enjoy. They may not have made the grade in certain journals, but I’ve tasted them multiple times and truly believe they will please you immensely. And I’ve thrown in one Bordeaux that, if you do not buy, you will kick yourself from here throughout eternity…Enjoy my saplings!

Wing Canyon 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon (VF 94)
Erba 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon (VF 93)
Source 2004 Heritage Sites Red (VF 92-94)
Source 2004 Paramount Red (VF 94)
Almus 7 2003 – Cuvee Kemiji & Portray (VF 96)
Pagodes de Cos 2003 (VF 91)

Lovers of Pinot Noir had the golden opportunity to take part in the 4th Annual Pinot Days Festival in San Francisco during the end of June. Winemaker dinners, workshops and seminars were held on the days leading up to the last weekend of June. The Grand Festival Tasting was on Sunday, July 29th at the Ft. Mason Center’s Herbst Pavilion in San Francisco. This is where all the big daddy tastings occur like Family Winemakers of California, Rhone Rangers and the ZAP (Zinfandel Advocate & Producers). Within four short years Pinot Days has soared in popularity, mainly based on the commercial and marketing success of the varietal, but also due to the efforts and marketing genius of the founders. For "Pinot Geeks" and for those who want to learn more about this misunderstood varietal, Pinot Days is a must to mark on the calendar for next year. 

The Grand Festival Tasting is worth the admission to get a snapshot of the category in California, Oregon, New Zealand, Australia, France and Germany. With over 170 producers on hand, it’s not hard to grasp the diversity of this finicky varietal. What’s amazing is that Pinot Days is a non-profit with the commitment to raise money for those in need.

I had the opportunity to attend this year's Grand Tasting and am relieved to report back that I was still walking at the close of the event. Spitting should be mandatory because such a large crowd can get unruly! Large venues like this kind of remind me of sporting events where energy and tipsiness go hand in hand! Like any organized sport, you need a game plan to chart out who you want to see, but leaving room for make new discoveries.

I welcome your comments on your top picks, new darlings, overall impressions and disappointments. Below are my thoughts on the following categories.

Impressed by
- The check-in process for the trade was smooth in comparison to other venues of its size.
- Crowd circulation was relatively smooth with tables that were not too overcrowded.
- An amazing array of winemaker dinners, workshops and seminars were billed!
- A nice array of Pinots was poured in the mid-price range of $30 to $45.

Disappointed by or unimpressed by
- The lack of quality vintners from around the world! This needs to be a focus for next year!
- Samples were great, but the selection of more substantial food choices was limited. 
- There were not many value priced Pinots offered!
- I’m not into smear campaigns, but any new label charging $50 for five leaf, young vine Pinot. It’s not just about a business plan!

Favorite Winery Lineups (The whole range of wines poured was of excellent quality.)
Ancien Wines (Napa/Sonoma), Arcadian (Central Coast), Auteur (Sonoma/Oregon), B. Kosuge (Carneros, Sonoma), Benovia Winery (Russian River), Black Kite (Anderson Valley), Calera (Pinnacles), Copain Wines (Anderson Valley/Sonoma), Dutton Goldfield Winery (Sonoma), Flying Goat (Central Coast), Fort Ross (Sonoma Coast), Freeman (Russian River), Hartford Family (Sonoma), Hirsch (Sonoma Coast), Londer Vineyards (Anderson Valley), Peay Vineyards (Sonoma Coast), Robert Stemmler (Russian River), Scherrer Winery, Talisman Cellars (Sonoma/Carneros), W.H. Smith (Sonoma Coast) and Zepaltas Wines (Sonoma)

Most improved wine from initial release
I tasted the 2005 Donum Estate, Carneros (VF 94, $65) back in the early Spring 2008 and it was clumsy and closed. I re-tasted it at the event, and wow, like night a day with a hedonistic nose and sexy dark red fruit. Yum-yum!

Turnaround winery
Robert Stemmler has been reinvented with the 2006 releases and new ownership under Donum Estate Owner and Viticulturist, Anne Moller-Racke.

Best in Value (Unfortunately there were no $15 darlings, but the options opened up in $30 range.)
- Scherrer Winery Russian River Valley 2006
- Copain Wines - Tous Ensemble, Anderson Valley 2006

Winery to watch out for (Time to make a call to get on mailing list!)
Benovia Winery - The whole lineup. Owners have recently purchased the Cohn Vineyard. Sorry Kosta Browne!

The most Burgundy-terroir influenced lineup
Josh Jensen’s Calera Ryan and Mills bottlings came up in spades. It’s about the limestone baby. Don’t hesitate to age any of the Calera top crus; they will not disappoint after five years or so.

Most Fruit-Forward Lineup
Belle Glos (Central Coast)

My Top Picks
2006 Ancien, ‘Mink Vineyard’, Napa Valley
2007 Auteur, ‘Ophelia’, Oregon and Washington Blend
2006 August West, ‘Rossella’s Vineyard’, Santa Lucia Highlands
2006 Benovia Winery, ‘Cohn Vineyard’, Russian River
2006 B. Kosuge, ‘Manchester Ridge’, Mendocino
2005 Donum Estate, Carneros (VF 95, $42)
2006 Flying Goat, ‘Dierberg Vineyard’, Santa Maria Valley (VF 92, $42)
2006 Freeman, Russian River Valley (VF 93, $42)
2006 Londer, ‘Paraboll’, Anderson Valley
2006 Hartford Family, ‘Fog Dance Vineyards’, Green Valley
2006 Robert Stemmler, ‘Nugent Vineyard’, Russian River Valley
2006 Stephen Test, Russian River Valley
2006 W.H. Smith, ‘Marimar Estate Vineyard’, Green Valley

That’s my snapshot! I look forward to your comments. Keep the Pinot flowing! Cheers!

Last weekend the weather was great in Napa Valley. Inspired, I took the opportunity for leisurely bike ride during the extreme heat of the day, which was probably not the best idea, since temperatures were in the upper 90s. I thought to myself, “the grapes must be loving this heat,” and all the while I was trying to find a big shade tree to escape it. Peddling through the Valley, I was reminded that with all its incredible appellations and micro-climates, my favorites remain those in the mountains.
Mountain-grown fruit makes the best wines, period. I have a love and appreciation for all of them; their rich, berry-driven and age-worthy fruit commands the palate. The different mountain regions produce different wine styles, but I really can’t pick a favorite. From Howell Mountain (east of St. Helena), Mount Veeder District (west of Oakville), Spring Mountain District (west of St. Helena) and Diamond Mountain (west of Calistoga), they all are climate gems that produce memorable wines.
Getting back to my bike ride, with a welcoming breeze I was cruising through the Napa neighborhood streets, when I remembered that I needed to pick up my 6 bottles of the 2006 Robert Craig Howell Mountain Zinfandel which I had purchased back in late 2007 on pre-release. My lips were smacking in anticipation of having it that evening. The winery and vineyards are located on Howell Mountain, on the east side of the Napa Valley.
Robert Craig has all the ingredients for success: beautiful vineyards, mountain-grown fruit and a rising star winemaking team. The same can be said for many of the region's wineries, which showcase the great diversity of the Napa appellation.

If you haven’t already done so, bring Howell Mountain wines into your wine world. You won’t be disappointed with this beautiful mountain-grown fruit.

Browse Vinfolio's extensive inventory of wines from the Howell Mountain region here.

Some of my favorites from the region include:

1997 Dunn Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain 1.5L ($225)

1999 La Jota - Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain ($120)

2003 Cornerstone - Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain ($85) 

The sign for Bohan-Dillon Road had the “O”s shot out, maybe the “A” too, from rifle blasts. This was a nice contrast to the “No Hunting” sign posted a few feet away. Why is it that the most lauded California Pinot vineyards require drives down twisted, pot-holed dirt roads when the grand crus of Burgundy are visible from the highway?

No matter, Bohan-Dillon leads to all the top-shelf Sonoma Coast vineyards – those of Marcassin, Flowers, Hirsch etc etc. These recognized producers have brought fame and fortune to the steep slopes of the true Sonoma Coast, and each one claims to be a pioneer in the region. Not many of these big names have been around longer than Daniel and Marion Schoenfeld, though, who have been making wine on their mountain property since 1977, albeit as home winemakers. Their winery, Wild Hog Vineyard, became official in 1990.

Wild Hog doesn’t have the name recognition of its superstar neighbors. It doesn’t command the high prices, either. Daniel Schoenfeld intentionally keeps prices affordable, making his wine accessible to the masses. It became obvious, after spending 3 hours popping corks on any and everything in his garage-like winery that he’s not in the business to be famous or make millions. In addition to his own small estate vineyards (Pinot planted in 1981, Zinfandel planted in 1982) he sources fruit from, well, whoever wants to sell him some. He experiments with unique varietals, too; while there I tasted very old vine Carignane from Dry Creek and Montepulciano just to name a couple. And he’s always looking for more, either because it keeps him from boredom or maybe because he can’t say no to a new challenge. The best part about tasting at Wild Hog was that every wine had a crazy story about the people and fruit involved and Daniel was more than willing to tell them.

It’s in these experiences, just spending time talking, tasting, and most importantly, listening, that the spirit of a true winemaker becomes obvious. Not to get overly philosophical, but Daniel’s enthusiasm, knowledge, and plain joy of winemaking was a clear reminder of the adventure that goes into producing each and every vintage. And these experiences are just a phone call, and a twisted, pot-holed dirt road, away.

The full range of some of Daniel’s more “prominent” neighbors, located on just the next ridgetops, currently in stock at Vinfolio:

Marcassin

Flowers

Hirsch

When planning your trip to Napa Valley, you’ve probably checked off of your list every dinner you’re planning to have, although you may not have considered where to enjoy your lunch. The best kept "secret" is brunch at Redd in Yountville (secret because not many gourmands have experienced it yet). 

Chef Richard Reddington has grown to great acclaim from years of honing his skills in both France and the Bay area. His style is as he describes it, "Napa Valley Food" - fresh, seasonal, and scrumptious. In my mind it beats dinner, allowing for a quieter atmosphere and brighter ambiance when the sun is streaming through the front windows.

I recommend starting with a glass of bubbly, such as the Egly-Ouriet Brut Prestige. Make sure to order some doughnut holes for the table at the time of the wine order. They’ll come piping hot to the table with chocolate, caramel, and raspberry dipping sauces. A stunning start. The highlight for brunch for me is a sashimi of hamachi served over sticky rice with edamame and lime ginger sauce. Other stunners are the breakfast pizza (you can ask to substitute smoked salmon for the prosciutto), huevos rancheros (traditional with chorizo), a lobster club sandwich with bacon and lemon aioli, and the caramelized diver scallops with cauliflower purée and balsamic reduction. For dessert, my top take is the peanut butter – milk chocolate Gianduja (a Swiss hazelnut chocolate confection), served with a peanut honeycomb parfait.

A nicely balanced Kistler Chardonnay will blend with most of the menu. With the meats, which are not overly hearty, a proper pinot will do. Go California with the Brewer Clifton or some Etude from Carneros. Corton le Rognet if you want some Burgundy for the table. Buy some bottles from Vinfolio to take with you. Corkage is nominal. Try it out and make a day of it, with a few winery visits in Rutherford as well (limos recommended). When you’ve finished, please reply to this blog and tell me if I was spot on with the suggestion.
 

2000 Egly-Ouriet - Brut Prestige Millesime $105

2003 Kistler – Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard (IWC 93, WS91) $84

2001 Kistler – Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard (IWC 95, WS 91) $89

1993 Ambroise, Bertrand – Corton Le Rognet (WA 90, WS 91) $125

2005 Brewer-Clifton – Pinot Noir Rio Vista Vineyard (WA 93) $47

2005 Etude – Pinot noir Temblor Vineyard Estate (VF 93) $60

 

The mind tends to wander towards Burgundy when thinking about 30 year old Chardonnays; divine Montrachet or Corton-Charlemagne is evoked. There are few opportunities in California for the same experience. At a tasting a few years back, a small group of wine junkies and aficionados had the opportunity to try 32-year-old California Chardonnay and Pinot in a three-decade vertical tasting. The event was hosted by the dedicated staff of Hanzell Vineyards and Winery in Sonoma, led by Winemaker Emeritus Bob Sessions and wife Jean Arnold.

The vineyards of this enduring and historically important wine estate were first planted in 1953. It took four leaves (years of vine growth) before the fruits of labor came forth to set a new standard for California whites. The first release of Hanzell Chardonnay was in 1957, long before boutique hand-crafting was identified as a necessity for honed finesse and refined maturity.

So, back to the tasting. I enjoy youthful Hanzell, young here defined as having spent only 10 years in bottle. A 10-year-old Hanzell shows medium gold hue with floral and often complex tropical notes, and is full-bodied with great acidity and balance. These wines are big. After 20 years, looking at an ’86, the Hanzell Chardonnay still retains floral hints and more ripe tropical notes, taking on more concentrated butterscotch and honey on the nose. At 30 years, specifically in the ’75, the wines are still full and rich, with tropical notes and more toasted hazelnut and butterscotch. A richer, more lengthy finish also rewards the patience of a true collector, with the ’75 still showing. It doesn’t get any better than this. Contact the winery before your next trip to California Wine Country. The property is breath-taking.   

The 2005 Hanzell Chardonnay ($65) is now on pre-arrival at Vinfolio. We anticipate receiving four cases at the beginning of May. Enjoy!!

As I live in Napa Valley, it seems that you often run into winemakers at every corner. Some of the typical occurrences include: meeting them at a sponsored wine event, standing behind them at the supermarket checkout, or sitting beside them at a local restaurant. I've met quite a few winemakers since I've lived in Napa, but the most memorable ones include several women whose winemaking style, palate and grace have stood out over the past decade.  They have raised the bar by bringing "cult wines" to the forefront of collectors' wine lists.

One winemaker that I especially remember meeting and whose wines I had the chance to pour was Heidi Peterson Barrett.  A gracious smile and vibrant personality are a few descriptors that come to mind of our first meeting.  Moreover, Heidi has been characterized by her passionate drive to create beautiful, elegant and timeless wines. At that first tasting, I remember Heidi was featuring the new vintages of her private label called La Sirena and I have been a fan ever since.  

Heidi Peterson Barrett
(La Sirena, Amuse Bouche, Paradigm, Barbour Vineyards, Jones Family, Showket Vineyards,
Lamborn Family, Revana Family and Lynch)

Past clients include Dalla Valle, Screaming Eagle, Grace Family, Vineyard 29, Oakford Vineyards. In addition, Heidi has done a limited amount of consulting work for Diamond Creek Winery and Niebaum-Coppola (Rubicon). Robert Parker has dubbed Heidi Barrett "the first lady of wine."

2004 Amuse Bouche – Proprietary Red (IWC 91, WA 90) $299
2003 Amuse Bouche – Proprietary Red (WS 93, WA 92) $325

These days there are many winemaking styles and women are being noticed not only for their skill as winemakers, but also as vineyard managers and at all levels of winemaking. In addition to Heidi Peterson Barrett, below are some other great “women of California wine” that you should know more about and whose wines you should experience.

Celia Masyczek (Mah-chess-key)
(Scarecrow, Husic, Keever, Cornerstone, Rocca Family, Hollywood & Vine, Kelly Fleming)

2004 Husic – Cabernet Sauvignon (VF 94) $120
2005 Keever – Cabernet Sauvignon (VF 92-94) $68
2004 Rocca Family – Cabernet Sauvignon Yountville (VF 95, WS 93) $70
2003 Cornerstone – Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain (VF 92, WS 88) $85

Kathy Joseph (Fiddlehead Cellars) Santa Barbara, CA

2004 Fiddlehead – Pinot Noir 728 Fiddlestix Vineyard (VF 92, IWC 89) $42

Helen Mawson (WINTER, Hundred Acre (Assistant Winemaker))

2004 Hundred Acre – Cabernet Sauvignon Kayli Morgan Vineyard (WA 94, IWC 94) $275