It honestly amazes me how so many wines get left in the lurch because of the most inane reasons: 1) funny label, 2) scored below 90, 3) obscure country, 4) weird name, 5) customers are afraid to ask questions, etc. What amuses and confuses me most (in a sad, pitying sort of way) are the absolute tons of wines out there that languish on shelves and in floor stacks because someone - be it the salesperson or the client - didn't have the presence of mind to make a left instead of a right. Don't get me wrong, there are plenty of times that I've grabbed a bottle, willing it to be the next "American Idol" of the "under-$20" contingent and been sorely and unrelentingly abused. But that doesn't mean I don’t ever take the plunge again! Part of the intrigue and greatness of wine is the fact that time and time again - despite some swing-and-misses - the overall sense that I get is that there are more and more quality wines being made that do not sacrifice the buyer to mediocrity. With that in mind, I would like to introduce a few of the misunderstood players of the "square peg in the round hole" posse.
2003 Raventos i Blanc – Cava Gran Reserva (WA 91, $35): OK. Most people think of Cava as the demon spawn of sparklers, maybe because for the longest time the frosted Hades-black Freixenet bottle dominated the market. Though, to give it its due, it's not that bad…I think Cook's or Tott's takes that 'prize.' Back to the aforementioned wine...this is going to make you a believer in the power that 'un'-Champagne grapes CAN make superb bubbles. Xarel-lo, Macabeo and Parellada - the heavenly trio of Cava grapes - join the ranks of a small amount of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Rocher des Violettes Montlouis: There are two dry options here - "La Negrette" (VF 93, $24) and "Touche-Mitaine" (VF 91, $17), both of which will go far in demonstrating that it is not only Sancerre that is Loire Valley royalty. This is Chenin Blanc at its shiny, happy best. Xavier WEISSKOPF went to school in Chablis and Beaune, trained with Louis Barroul at Saint Cosme and is set to make this 22-acre property the gem of Montlouis. These are substantial, dry Chenin Blancs capable of satisfying the most particular of white wine lovers, and will rival the stars of Vouvray, just across the river.
Henschke Semillon "Louis" (IWC 90, $18.95): Another grape that seems to get lost in the fray the moment it steps out of Bordeaux is Semillon. We drink Chardonnay from oodles of regions, Cabernet, too. Even Malbec and Grenache. What did this poor little white grape do to deserve this disrespect? So, join the SSB (Semillon Support Brigade) and swipe up a bottle of this lovely Australian version. And keep an eye out for more of this grape - mono and in blends - from South Africa and New Zealand, too.
