Big news in the New Zealand wine world: Robert Parker, sailing blithely along on his usual route between Bordeaux and California this year, got blown off course and bumped into New Zealand! Mr. Parker peered through his binoculars at this unexpected obstacle. "Lo and behold, they make wine here!" he said to his crew, which included British wine writer and music freak, Neal Martin. "Neal, go ashore and find out how many points it has!" Neal, an obliging young man, disembarked, and spent two whole weeks exploring this new wine country in the company of the friendly natives, who plied him with many, many of their wines and watched his reactions anxiously, hoping he would give them many, many points. Mr. Martin took copious notes, and is gradually posting them on www.erobertparker.com as he recovers from the rigors of exploration. His introduction, entitled
"New Zealand: More Than a 'Savalanche'", and the first of his tasting notes, are available for subscribers to Robert Parker.
On the whole, Mr. Martin did a very credible job covering a great deal of territory in so short a time. His approach was critical in the best sense of that word – applying careful, unbiased judgment – and he assessed the wines within their context - that of a cool climate. His visit was sponsored by New Zealand Winegrowers, who also do a very creditable job marketing New Zealand wine to the world. Of course there are notable absences in his notes, names that are beloved and world famous within New Zealand, but his visit marks a starting point for us in the world of Parker, and for that we are grateful.
I will declare at this point that I am a New Zealander, so I am allowed to make generalizations that no one else can, at least not within my hearing. New Zealanders suffer from sporadic bouts of "Small Country Syndrome." Symptoms range from a sudden need for approval from others, to dismissal of the entire world beyond our borders. It is not uncommon to hear it said in New Zealand that "We make the best Sauvignon Blanc in the world." Much as I love New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, this is simply not true. If Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough holds its own alongside Sauvignon Blancs from Sancerre, Pouilly Fumé, Styria, and the Alto Adige, I am happy and proud. I believe it does. I also believe that our Chardonnays are an undiscovered treasure, at least undiscovered by America until Mr. Martin’s visit. NZ Pinot Noirs offer a fascinating, fast-forward insight into how a region and a grape learn to bring the best out in each other. I highly recommend Vinfolio’s small, well-chosen selection of NZ wines, particularly the
2006 Ata Rangi Pinot Noir (91 points from Mr. Martin and 15 years of love from me for this winery, $47); and the two Chardonnays: the
2004 Kumeu River Chardonnay Mate's Vineyard (VF 92; WS 93; and 1 order from me – "Drink anything made by Michael Brajkovich, M.W.", $37) and the
2005 Pegasus Bay Chardonnay Waipara Valley (93 from Mr. Martin and at least 6 visits by me to this winery over the years, each time a pleasure, $26).
I’d really like to hear what you think as you discover these wines for yourself.
