The mind tends to wander towards Burgundy when thinking about 30 year old Chardonnays; divine Montrachet or Corton-Charlemagne is evoked. There are few opportunities in California for the same experience. At a tasting a few years back, a small group of wine junkies and aficionados had the opportunity to try 32-year-old California Chardonnay and Pinot in a three-decade vertical tasting. The event was hosted by the dedicated staff of Hanzell Vineyards and Winery in Sonoma, led by Winemaker Emeritus Bob Sessions and wife Jean Arnold.
The vineyards of this enduring and historically important wine estate were first planted in 1953. It took four leaves (years of vine growth) before the fruits of labor came forth to set a new standard for California whites. The first release of Hanzell Chardonnay was in 1957, long before boutique hand-crafting was identified as a necessity for honed finesse and refined maturity.
So, back to the tasting. I enjoy youthful Hanzell, young here defined as having spent only 10 years in bottle. A 10-year-old Hanzell shows medium gold hue with floral and often complex tropical notes, and is full-bodied with great acidity and balance. These wines are big. After 20 years, looking at an ’86, the Hanzell Chardonnay still retains floral hints and more ripe tropical notes, taking on more concentrated butterscotch and honey on the nose. At 30 years, specifically in the ’75, the wines are still full and rich, with tropical notes and more toasted hazelnut and butterscotch. A richer, more lengthy finish also rewards the patience of a true collector, with the ’75 still showing. It doesn’t get any better than this. Contact the winery before your next trip to California Wine Country. The property is breath-taking.
The 2005 Hanzell Chardonnay ($65) is now on pre-arrival at Vinfolio. We anticipate receiving four cases at the beginning of May. Enjoy!!
