Burgundy has always held a certain mysterious appeal for the wine collector. The obvious reason is the region’s stunning Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, grown on Burgundy’s famous limestone soils; but the challenge of comprehending this region is also a significant draw. Factors of history, politics, geology, and micro-climate contribute to its complexity. It is apparent that these wines demand much attention in order to be fully appreciated, but that they always remain enigmatic; Burgundy might never be fully comprehensible, but something can be learned with each new tasting experience, making it an unending source of exploration.
The history of the vine in Burgundy is quite extensive. From 900 AD until the French Revolution, vineyards were owned by the Church. During these early years, monasteries did extensive planting and established some of today’s best known vineyards. The monks helped facilitate a natural selection of vineyard sites so that plantings were done in the best possible locations. After the French Revolution, Burgundy’s vineyards were divided among the workers who had tended those vines. From that point on, the Napoleonic inheritance laws subdivided vineyards further to the point of individual rows. Because of this subdivision, négociants, merchants who buy grapes or juice from growers and make their own wines, are common. Some examples of well-known négociants include
Bouchard Père et Fils, Joseph Drouhin, Faiveley,
Louis Jadot, and Louis Latour.
As further testament to Burgundy’s diversity, there are nearly 100 AOC (appellation contrôlée) in the region. Burgundies are classified by origin rather than by producer (or château) as in Bordeaux. Quality levels increase as a wine’s grape source becomes more specific, ranging from Regional and Communal (Villages) locations, to Premier and Grand Cru vineyards. The Villages sites are typically located on the flatlands closer to towns, whereas the Premier Cru vineyards have more advantageous locations on the hillsides. Finally, the Grand Cru vineyards are located on the middle and upper portions of the slopes and represent the ideal combination of soil, aspect, sunshine, and drainage. Some examples of famous Grand Cru vineyards include the Pinot Noir sites "Bonnes Mares" and "Richebourg" and acclaimed Chardonnay sites "Le Montrachet" and "Corton-Charlemagne."
Since it is common for many growers to own small parcels in specific vineyards, there exists the unique opportunity to sample the various growers’ renditions from the same vineyard. These comparisons highlight a producer’s particular style, as well as the various growing conditions within the vineyard. Throughout the region, there is geographic, climatic, and vintage variation, all of which add exciting components to the Burgundy experience.
Despite the fact that it can be challenging and intimidating, the region’s very complexity can inspire a lifetime of discovery and enjoyment. There are many well-known producers in Burgundy who consistently make impressive and investment-worthy wines. However, great quality can also be found in more reasonably priced regional appellations, especially when crafted by an expert producer. The goal of all Burgundy is to best express its unique sense of place. Due to the proliferation of vineyard holdings, each producer aims to make wines that differentiate themselves by their ability to mirror the characteristics of the land and the winemaker’s personal style.
The following is a list of my favorite selections currently featured in our wine store:
2006 Faiveley, Joseph - Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er Cru, BH 91-93, $69.95
2005 Bertagna - Nuits St Georges Les Murgers 1er Cru, BH 90-92, $89
1999 Delarche, Marius - Corton-Renardes, BH 92, $92
2005 Trapet - Latricieres-Chambertin, BH 94, $179
2003 Magnien, Frederic - Chambertin Clos de Beze, BH 92-95, $195
2005 Potel, Nicolas - Bonnes Mares, BH 93-95, $325
2002 Lignier, Hubert - Clos de la Roche, BH 94, $365
2002 Mugnier, Jacques-Frederic – Musigny, BH 94, $659
1995 DRC - La Tache, BH 94, $1,495
2006 Fevre, William - Chablis Fourchaume 1er Cru, BH 90-93, $40.95
2005 Long-Depaquit - Chablis Les Clos, BH 92, $54
2005 Girardin, Vincent - Corton-Charlemagne Quintessence, BH 92-95, $175
2005 Lafon, Comtes - Meursault Charmes 1er Cru, BH 91-93, $315
2004 Niellon, Michel - Batard-Montrachet, BH 94, $399
