Vinfolio Blog

A little while back a group of friends decided to celebrate the holidays at my favorite restaurant south of San Francisco, Manresa.  This fabulous place is named after the medieval town in Catalonia and gets much of the cuisine’s inspiration from that region as well as from the European classics and local biodynamic farming.  David Kinch, the Executive Chef, has worked at famous restaurants throughout the world from the Quilted Giraffe in New York, to Arzak in San Sebastian, Spain and everywhere in between and has a style all his own—he created my favorite amuse-bouche in the US, a coddled egg with foie gras, maple syrup and caviar.  What a way to start any meal.  I could certainly do it for breakfast, lunch, AND dinner.

When we first arrived in the private room we were all presented with a glass of Non-Vintage Drappier Val des Demoiselles. It has a wonder balance of fruit and acidity. On the palate, there was a hint of cassis.  This Champagne has lovely freshness, with a breath of toastiness and great length.  Once we were all seated, we were treated to Kobe-style American Beef and Oyster Tartar.  Though I have experienced Manresa on numerous occasions, this dish was a new one me and what a treat!  The marriage between the two very distinct flavors was absolutely superb and it virtually melted in my mouth.  Our second amuse was a daring Kohlrabi and Foie Gras Royale demonstrating Chef Kinch’s knack for blending very different textures with outstanding results.

Our first course consisted of Monterey Bay Spot Prawns on the Planch with exotic Indian spice.  The prawns were so sweet and creamy they melted in my mouth; the sauce had fantastic cumin and coriander; and the combination was very fresh and light as there was no cream to weigh it down at the beginning of the meal.  This delectable dish was served with a 2006 Diatom Huber Chardonnay, Santa Rita Hills.  It had a hint of herbaceousness and green papaya.  The 100% malolactic fermentation was certainly apparent and it had a fairly pronounced buttery character.  It was a bit green on the palate, with good acidity, balance, and length.  It was a lovely pairing with the prawns as there was also a good deal of lychee and exotic fruit as well.

This being December in the Bay Area, our next treat was of course Dungeness Crab prepared in a risotto with black truffles.  For those of you who are unaware, we had an oil spill occur in the San Francicsco Bay just before Thanksgiving.  It closed beaches and delayed the official beginning of Crab Season by several weeks.  But good things certainly come to those who wait.  The crab was so sweet, the risotto creamy and cooked to perfection, and who could ever look down their noses at black truffles from Perigord?  To accompany this delectable dish we had a 2002 Gros Frère et Soeur Vosne-Romanée.  With its beautiful ruby color, it was a classic Vosne-Romanée with hints of violettes and that traditional "barnyard" (and I do mean that in the best sense) aroma.  A perfect Côte de Nuits, the wine was lovely and elegant with great acidity and length.  It the end it was the red berry and tobacco that lingered the most.

Our next course was the Guinea Hen poached and then roasted with Winter Vegetable and Citrus.  This was the perfect dish for a cold winter evening with friends.  The hen was rich and moist while the hearty root vegetables were still kept light and savory with the help of the citrus.  This memorable course was accompanied by the 2004 Pisoni Estate Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands.  It had a dark ruby hue and a nose that was all cherry and mint.  There was a good deal of acidity to this Pinot and very fresh for a '04.  The finish had lots of sweetness and a gentle hint of melted brown sugar.

Our main course was an amazing Roast Beef with Yellowfoot Mushrooms and Crushed Potatoes with Horseradish.  The beef was beautifully roasted – just the right amount of pink for me.  The potatoes were from heaven, so sweet from the caramelization accompanied by delectable mushrooms. As this course was fit for a king, we had of course the king of Napa varietals, the 2004 Hourglass Cabernet Sauvignon, out of magnum.  The deep, opaque aubergine color was amazing.  In the nose were hints of mint, black cherry, and molasses.  On the palate it was almost over the top for the scrumptious yet mild roast beef.  It had huge, mouth puckering tannins, yet the overall body and structure was still fairly restrained.   We enjoyed this wine with a selection of cheeses ranging from a French raw goat’s milk, a harder Spanish goat’s milk, to an American blue wrapped in grape leaves.  Even with the intense color and acidity, this will be a fantastic wine to cellar for a years so as to enjoy it again with prime rib at some date after 2012.  

Our dessert course consisted of Dark Chocolate Fondant and Chicory Cremeux with Caramel Bouillon and hazelnut Ice Cream.  The chicory gave a pleasing crunchy consistency as well as flavor to the dish.  The hazelnut ice cream was a dream.  I have only had its equivalent once and that was in Piedmonte, Italy!  The caramel bouillon was wonderful with elegance and beautiful balance - not too sweet, just enough.  This dish also paired well with the Hourglass.

It was a fabulous way to celebrate the holidays with my dear friends from Saratoga and the fantastic staff at Manresa:  David, the always brilliant and low-key chef, Jeff, one of my favorite wine stewards, and Esteban, the ever welcoming Maître d’hôtel.  Everyone who works at Manresa has a class and professionalism that puts them truly head and shoulders above the rest.  Thank you again Russel and Susan Perry as well as everyone at Manresa.  Happy 2008!

I cannot recommend and emphasize enough that if you aren’t buying wines from the 2004 Tuscany and Piedmont campaigns, you will be remorse.  This is a classic vintage with many estates producing some of their finest wines ever.  Now is the time to purchase these wines and to go deep on your favorites.  The campaigns have started for the 2004s and we source more every day.  These are “must haves” for the wine lover and wine collector alike and represent some of the last vestiges of affordable fine and collectible wine.

Click here to view 2004 Tuscany

Click here to view 2004 Piedmont

Antonio Galloni on 2004 Tuscany:

Simply put, 2004 is a superb vintage in Central Tuscany…..  Readers will be tempted to enjoy these 2004s young, but the wines will only show the full extent of their potential in some years. Not to be left behind, 2004 is also a superb vintage for the Super-Tuscan blends of indigenous and international varietals….. Wines such as Solaia, Tignanello and Camartina are especially noteworthy.  All of the wines mentioned above feature extraordinary length and finesse as well as sweet, silky tannins which makes them incredibly appealing even at this early stage. Simply put, the best 2004s are reference-point wines for the region and are not to be missed.

Stephen Tanzer on 2004 Piedmont:

…… The splendid 2004 Barolos and Barbarescos were the highlight of my tour…..The better 2004s are scented and elegant, and at the same time structured and strong. They show many stylistic similarities to the 2001s, another warm season that benefited from fine conditions before and during the harvest. While both of these vintages can be described as “classic,” tannins are generally ripe, and although these wines are structured to evolve in bottle for a decade or two, there’s relatively little of the early austerity that characterized so many big nebbiolo wines of years past. Many producers I visited in September rate the two vintages as roughly equal. Some prefer 2004 for their suppler tannins and more immediate appeal.

Antonio Galloni on 2004 Piedmont:

After a series of poor 2002s and uneven 2003s Barbaresco bounces back with its stunning 2004s……For many estates the 2004s are without question the finest wines they have ever made, although as always, there are a handful of disappointments. The best 2004 Barbarescos are wonderfully complete, with the sweetness of the 2000s and the greater aromatic complexity, detail and finesse of the 2001s……Stylistically 2004 is closest to 1996, 1999 and 2001 although the wines in general possess more sweetness, generosity and finesse than any of those vintages. Simply put, 2004 is a vintage that has the potential to redefine many consumers’ views of the heights Nebbiolo can achieve……As in Barbaresco, the 2004 Barolos are extraordinary. They, too, are the finest wines many estates have ever produced.

The premise of the tastings is to better educate the press, trade and the public on the state of Italian wine, and the great strives that have been made in the last decade. The events will be conducted in an open walk-around fashion with seminars led by industry experts. The upcoming San Francisco tasting will mark my fourth "Tre Bicchieri" event I have attended, although this year marks the first ‘Roadshow.’ The venue has become much better attended with an expanded regional representation. Furthermore, the sheer number of wines to be poured has doubled. This is a must-attend event to really appreciate the menagerie of native varietals from unknown regions. Classic regions such as Tuscany, Piedmont and Veneto will be showcased, but you will also expand your horizons by tasting wines from ancient growing regions from all corners of the country and neighboring islands. Expect to taste wines with regional personality that display a whole lot of soul and pedigree, from easy sipping value whites to limited reserve wines that are rarely poured stateside, and are highly allocated to the American market. I don't know any other Italian tasting that will be more informative and flavorful than this event.

San Francisco Tre Bicchieri Tasting
Wednesday, March 5th 2008
Herbst Pavillon - Fort Mason Center
Doors open for Press at 3:00 p.m.
General Admission 4:00 to 8:00 p.m.

Vinfolio has showcased several noted ‘Tre Bichieri’ winners in the past. Like Gambero Rosso’s mission, we also strive to secure and promote the best from Italy. A barrage of wineries has won multiple times over the years, and we are committed to sourcing these estates from both private collections and the Western European market.   

Below is a list of estates that we have had the pleasure of showcasing both their older and more recent releases.  

Piedmont: Gaja, La Spinetta, Elio Altare, Dominco Clerico, Giacomo Conterno, Matteo Correggia, Roberto Voerzio, Conterno Fantino, Aldo Conterno and Bruno Giacosa.

Tuscany: Fattoria di Felsina, Marchesi Antinori, Poliziano, Tenuta San Guido, Tenuta Fontodi, Isole e Olena, Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, Querciabella, Casanova di Neri, Castello dei Rampolla, Montevertine and Tua Rita.

Veneto: Allegrini, Romano Dal Forno and Giuseppe Quintarelli.

My Tuscan exploration continues. Excited by a recent showing of the 1997 Argiano, I came across a bottle of the 1990 and took it to a favorite Italian restaurant called Sociale. Not only am I high on Brunello at the moment, particularly from the trustworthy producers whose wines age gracefully and properly, but the 1990 vintage has me rather excited to dive deeper into what is an exceptional year for Tuscany and Brunello di Montalcino in particular.
 
The 1990 Argiano showed really, really well. It’s mature, but has ample fruit and structure for continued development. Sangiovese’s hallmark acidity brought verve and liveliness that helped the wine develop throughout the meal. The wine revealed beautiful dark fruits, floral character, as well as notes of spice and mushroom.

My advice is to get into the 1990 Brunellos. Bottles from producers of balanced, age-able wines are certain to offer tons of pleasure at this point in time – I would imagine very few require more bottle age. This bottle is the most recent in a succession of great 1990s (such as Valdicava, Ciacci Piccolomini, Altesino) that I’ve recently tried. I haven’t found any over-ripeness, roasted qualities or imbalance that the year’s heat had brought to other regions such as Burgundy, Bordeaux and even Piedmont. There are tons of 1990 Brunellos floating around the market and through Vinfolio. They are truly worth your attention. Below are some prime examples:

1990 Costanti, Conti - Brunello di Montalcino, WS 93, $95

1990 Poggione - Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, WS 91, $135

1990 Pertimali (Livio Sassetti) - Brunello di Montalcino, $150

1990 Poggio Antico - Brunello di Montalcino, WS 91, $169

1990 Caparzo - Brunello di Montalcino Vigna La Casa, WA 91, $185

1990 Banfi - Brunello di Montalcino Poggio all'Oro Riserva, $189

1990 Costanti, Conti - Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, $225

If you have enjoyed reading the Vinfolio Staff Picks blog, now is the time to show your support by nominating us for the 2008 American Blog Awards. Last year our CEO, Stephen Bachmann, won the category of "Best Single Subject Blog" for The Wine Collector, also featured on Vinfolio’s website.

To nominate us for this category, go to Best Single Subject Wine Blog.

Other nomination pages include:
Best Wine Blog Writing
Best Wine Blog
Best Wine Review Blog
Best Wine Business Blogging
Best Winery Blog
Best Wine Podcast or Video Blog
Best Wine Blog Graphics

See here for a list of the winners from 2007 in all categories.

Burgundy has always held a certain mysterious appeal for the wine collector. The obvious reason is the region’s stunning Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, grown on Burgundy’s famous limestone soils; but the challenge of comprehending this region is also a significant draw. Factors of history, politics, geology, and micro-climate contribute to its complexity. It is apparent that these wines demand much attention in order to be fully appreciated, but that they always remain enigmatic; Burgundy might never be fully comprehensible, but something can be learned with each new tasting experience, making it an unending source of exploration.    

The history of the vine in Burgundy is quite extensive. From 900 AD until the French Revolution, vineyards were owned by the Church. During these early years, monasteries did extensive planting and established some of today’s best known vineyards. The monks helped facilitate a natural selection of vineyard sites so that plantings were done in the best possible locations. After the French Revolution, Burgundy’s vineyards were divided among the workers who had tended those vines. From that point on, the Napoleonic inheritance laws subdivided vineyards further to the point of individual rows. Because of this subdivision, négociants, merchants who buy grapes or juice from growers and make their own wines, are common. Some examples of well-known négociants include Bouchard Père et Fils, Joseph Drouhin, Faiveley, Louis Jadot, and Louis Latour.

As further testament to Burgundy’s diversity, there are nearly 100 AOC (appellation contrôlée) in the region. Burgundies are classified by origin rather than by producer (or château) as in Bordeaux. Quality levels increase as a wine’s grape source becomes more specific, ranging from Regional and Communal (Villages) locations, to Premier and Grand Cru vineyards. The Villages sites are typically located on the flatlands closer to towns, whereas the Premier Cru vineyards have more advantageous locations on the hillsides. Finally, the Grand Cru vineyards are located on the middle and upper portions of the slopes and represent the ideal combination of soil, aspect, sunshine, and drainage.  Some examples of famous Grand Cru vineyards include the Pinot Noir sites "Bonnes Mares" and "Richebourg" and acclaimed Chardonnay sites "Le Montrachet" and "Corton-Charlemagne."

Since it is common for many growers to own small parcels in specific vineyards, there exists the unique opportunity to sample the various growers’ renditions from the same vineyard.  These comparisons highlight a producer’s particular style, as well as the various growing conditions within the vineyard. Throughout the region, there is geographic, climatic, and vintage variation, all of which add exciting components to the Burgundy experience.

Despite the fact that it can be challenging and intimidating, the region’s very complexity can inspire a lifetime of discovery and enjoyment.  There are many well-known producers in Burgundy who consistently make impressive and investment-worthy wines.  However, great quality can also be found in more reasonably priced regional appellations, especially when crafted by an expert producer. The goal of all Burgundy is to best express its unique sense of place. Due to the proliferation of vineyard holdings, each producer aims to make wines that differentiate themselves by their ability to mirror the characteristics of the land and the winemaker’s personal style.

The following is a list of my favorite selections currently featured in our wine store:

2006 Faiveley, Joseph - Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er Cru, BH 91-93, $69.95
2005 Bertagna - Nuits St Georges Les Murgers 1er Cru, BH 90-92, $89
1999 Delarche, Marius - Corton-Renardes, BH 92, $92
2005 Trapet - Latricieres-Chambertin, BH 94, $179
2003 Magnien, Frederic - Chambertin Clos de Beze, BH 92-95, $195
2005 Potel, Nicolas - Bonnes Mares, BH 93-95, $325
2002 Lignier, Hubert - Clos de la Roche, BH 94, $365
2002 Mugnier, Jacques-Frederic – Musigny, BH 94, $659
1995 DRC - La Tache, BH 94, $1,495

2006 Fevre, William - Chablis Fourchaume 1er Cru, BH 90-93, $40.95
2005 Long-Depaquit - Chablis Les Clos, BH 92, $54
2005 Girardin, Vincent - Corton-Charlemagne Quintessence, BH 92-95, $175
2005 Lafon, Comtes - Meursault Charmes 1er Cru, BH 91-93, $315
2004 Niellon, Michel - Batard-Montrachet, BH 94, $399

“New World” wine nations have established themselves as serious producers of noted Bordelais varietals for the past quarter century. The five noted red grapes of Bordeaux are of course Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec. Several countries have been very successful producing and marketing these varieties. In the United States, we have Napa Valley, and Columbia Valley in Washington State. Down in South America we have the Colchagua Valley and Maipo Valley making an array of Bordeaux-inspired blends. In Argentina, we can’t forget the success of Malbec in the high altitude vineyards of Mendoza. Zipping across the globe to New Zealand, we find the “Big Three” (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Cabernet Franc) popping up in the Hawkes Bay district of the North Island. Australia knows Syrah (Shiraz), but Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot perform well in the Margaret River, Victoria and Coonawaara districts.

                  

But let’s not forget about South Africa! Here’s a nation that had been almost forgotten due to sanctions on the former Apartheid government. The fact is that South Africa is the oldest growing region of the “New World” category. It has been documented that the first vines were planted in 1655 by the Dutch East India Trading Company. However, they were not successful, and a major replanting began almost thirty years later on the back end of Cape Town.  This project was considered one of the largest in colonial times, and was called Groot Constantia. There are still wineries in this growing district, but aromatic whites seem to be its calling card. The most noted areas for Bordeaux-inspired varietals are to be found in Stellenbosch and, to some extent, in Paarl. Stellenbosch will remind many of travelling through Napa Valley, and the varietal landscape is similar, except for plantings of Pinotage (crossing of Pinot Noir & Cinsault) and Steen (Chenin Blanc). 

Since 1994, when democratic elections replaced the Apartheid government, South African wines have returned to the international stage and imports to the United States have soared to record highs. Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc have increased in both production and fame, but the “Big Three” still form the foundation for quality and rival the best efforts from other “New World” regions.  I find that these South African wines are the most similar to the blends of Bordeaux, especially with subtle tertiary nuances of herbs, dry-brushy notes, mint, cedar box and lead pencil. They are not just about bombastic black jammy fruit bolstered with alcohol levels of 15.5%, which can too often be the case with their competitors. Many estates in Stellenbosch offer fantastic Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux-inspired blends for a third or even half the price of Napa’s finest, making them great finds that won’t disappoint.

Vinfolio currently has four of the finest South African producers on the site, and they would make for a tasty “exploration mix case sampler”! These wines can be enjoyed now with a good 60 minutes of decanting time, and pair well with grilled or roasted meats. These efforts are also excellent mid-term cellaring candidates that will only improve with 2-6 years of age. 

2004 Neil Ellis - Cabernet Sauvignon Vineyard Selection ($39) IWC 91

2004 Ernie Els - Engelbrecht Els Red ($39) IWC 92/WS 91

2004 Rustenberg - Peter Barlow ($32) IWC 93

2003 Vilafonte - Series C ($56) WS 88

Other noted producers of this category to look out for are Boekenhoutskloof, Buitenverwachting, De Trafford, Grangehurst, Kaapzicht, Meerlust, Plaisir de Merle, Rudera, Stark Conde, Thelema, Vergelegen, Warwick and Waterford.  All of the above are imported into the country.

 

 

The 2006 Oregon Pinot Noir vintage is looking great.  Wine Spectator comments, “those who like the suppleness and relatively light texture of Oregon Pinot will want to stock up this year.  2006 saw a long, hot summer that got the grapes totally ripe.  The flavors are sweet and the textures supple.  Look for generous wines with higher alcohols than the moderate levels seen in 2004 and 2005.  The wines have impressive depth and drink-me-now quality…The run ends in 2007, though, as heavy rains fell on a larger than normal grape crop just as it was ripening.”  (Harvey Steiman, The Wine Spectator, Vol. 32, No. 15)

Growing up in Seattle, I have always been a huge fan of the Shea Vineyard (sourced by Panther Creek, Ken Wright, St Innocent, and even Sine Qua Non).  I bought the 2006 Shea Wine Cellars - Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard Estate myself.  The Shea Vineyard is the source for Oregon Pinot and this is a reference standard.  If you want to do an interesting comparative tasting of vineyard-designate Pinot, start gathering the various renditions of the 2006 Shea Vineyard. 

Currently in stock:

 2006 Raptor Ridge Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard ($46)

A ginger and black cherry nose with soft undertones of mocha and vanilla dust. The palate shows well defined weight and deeply structured flavors; black berry, plum, hints of smoky licorice and kirsch that coat the palate with velvet-like tannins. Another Shea masterpiece. VF 96

- Doug Wilder, The Wilder Side of California, Issue 136

 

 

 2006 Shea Wine Cellars Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard Estate ($45) 

The nose shows violet and licorice/sassafras with cola and black cherry tart. The fat, powdered blueberry and violet ripeness on the palate is balanced by focused acidity. More structured than the 2005. VF 95

- Doug Wilder, The Wilder Side of California, Issue 143