Recently, I was climbing over a fence in a skirt, trying not to fall on my face.  To my left, a deer spine and hind leg snaked through the posts.  It was cold; nose-running, eyes-watering cold and windy, and little rain drops were starting to knife their way down from dark clouds.  At 2,200 feet above sea level, Mt Harlan seemed a magnet for the oncoming storm. On the other side of the fence laid the motivation for being out in this kind of weather, dressed so inappropriately.  Josh Jensen’s Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines arched tightly up and down the hills, separated by blankets of bright green groundcover. I have to admit, I was freezing, and so didn’t walk far enough in the right direction to see the famed lime kiln for which the Calera Wine Company is named.  I did, however, spot innumerable whitish pebbles sticking up out of the soil, belying the geological fact of a vast limestone deposit’s presence below.   

Jensen’s vines are fairly widely spaced, as is true of most vineyards planted in the late 1970s.  Sections have been replanted, but the Pinot remains entirely Calera clone, planted with cuttings taken from Chalone vineyards across the valley. The Calera Pinot vineyards (Selleck, Reed, Jensen, and Mills) produce wines of varying profiles, depending on their exact location, but all are unmistakably clear expressions of pure Pinot fruit.  Of the 2005s tasted, my favorite was from the Jensen Vineyard as it jumped out of the glass with red fruit on the nose, and continued with structure on the palate, providing the "backbone" for the warm spice roundness.  Good acidity carried the wine through to a long, balanced finish.  Also of note, though not Pinot, was the Chardonnay Mt Harlan, with an equally vibrant nose and excellent clarity and focus from attack to mid-palate to finish.

If you have a free Sunday, take the beautiful drive toward Hollister and taste at Calera.  Even if you don’t have time to break away, try a bottle of Josh Jensen’s Mt Harlan Pinot Noir or Chardonnay.  You won’t be disappointed.

Gastronomically speaking, it seems anything “Spain” has been on a ten-year upswing in the States. From the success of small plate-tapas bars in urban centers, to the upsurge in the import of wines from previously unknown regions, there’s no way around it, Spain is hot! This has propelled some friends and me to host an annual Spanish Feast over the last few years. A bounty of seafood is always at the top of the menu, paired with Cava and crisp aromatic whites. We usually prep three large Paella pans (seafood, veggie and meat lovers’ paradise), with Garnacha Rosados and savory Tempranillo Jovens waiting in the wings.

Beyond the food, I take great pride in selecting the wines for the theme. There’s an immense array of options that showcase distinct native varietals from bubbly to fortified, and more often than not they are the tastiest values available. Many of the native cultivars should be enjoyed young. They are extremely food-friendly, showcasing fresh, forward fruit, backed with cleansing acidity.

At Vinfolio we try to promote some of these darlings throughout the year and our clients appreciate that we have these wines available by the case for their entertaining needs. We presently have two wines on the site that scream “Spanish Party Wine”!   

Albariño is fast becoming what New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc or Viognier were in the early 1990s. Back then, there weren’t more than three or four Albarinos imported into the country. Today, the number has increased 500% if you include regions neighboring the famed Rias Baixas appellation in Galicia. Like Viognier, Albariño is aromatic, with a distinct stone fruit element rising off the nose. In most cases, the banner fruit scheme is peach backed with vibrant acidity and a twinge of minerality that will remind a wine enthusiast of German Riesling. The majority of the Albariño imported is un-oaked and tank-fermented to preserve the flowery aromatics and freshness.

2006 Nessa Albariño ($12) has won us over with its textbook notes of white flowers, zingy ginger-lemon zest backed with a light pear note. “Nessa” is made with the American market in mind. The parent winery is Adegas Gran Vinum, which has only been in business since 2002, but with the success of the past two vintages, this outfit is on the fast track to success. The winery is based in the Salnes Valley, where the grape thrives in the well-drained granite-based soils. Pair with citrus-glazed scallops, or any grilled seafood such as shrimp, spiny-tail lobster, or octopus.  

Mencia has become a favorite of the sommelier community here in the States. Testing has tied the grape genetically to Cabernet Franc, however, locals in the village of Bierzo and Ribeira Sacra would argue otherwise, stressing its uniqueness to the most inland portions of Galicia and the northeastern tip of Castile-León. The Bierzo district has more associated with Galicia than it does with the Castilian Empire, and the palate virtues of the Mencia varietal are putting this ancient viticulture pocket back on the map. It’s the only recommended red-skinned grape of the region. When tasting, the Cabernet Franc comparison is evident, with streaks of herbs and mint.

2006 Descendientes de Jose Palacios ‘Petalos’ Mencia ($20) has just been released on the site and it’s similar in quality to the 2005 rendition, which had great success. The schist-based mineral component really shines in this youthful, but approachable wine. Notes of black cherry and black raspberry hit the palate with pleasing results. The back end reveals more mineral notes intertwined with cigar ash and oil-cured black olives. It’s important to let this wine breath in glass or decanter for a good hour, but patience is rewarded! Close your eyes and you might think you’re drinking a wine triple the price. The Descendientes de Jose Palacios project is dedicated to this grape, sourcing old-vine material throughout the village of Corullon in Bierzo. There are other single vineyard offerings on the site that are more oak-driven and need time, but the 2006 Petalos is fresh, having spent only about 8 months in older oak. The vines used in this cuvée range from 40 to 90 years old. The Petalos cries out for lamb of any kind, but I like spicy dry rub lamb sirloin on the grill. When planning your Spanish Feast, perhaps try a slow-roasted leg of suckling pig! 

I’ve heard, and sometimes sided with, the argument that narrowly declares Sangiovese the ­only real Tuscan grape. Without a doubt Sangiovese best expresses the Tuscan region, but “Super-Tuscans” have been gaining their “street cred” as formidable newcomers.  Recently, I’ve been scanning the landscape of these Cabernet-based blends which, I think, deserve every bit as much respect as the famed locals. So who’s making the best non-Sangiovese-based wines in Tuscany?

 
The crown may go to Castello dei Rampolla, producer of two cultish, but relatively affordable bottlings: 2004 Sammarco ($65), (65-90% Cabernet, the rest Sangiovese), and 2004 Vigne d’Alceo ($165), (typically 85% Cabernet, the rest Petit Verdot or sometimes Sangiovese). Of Super-Tuscan producers, none are more soulful and genuine than those made by this low-tech operation. Despite the flavor profile that calls to mind Pauillac and Graves with its tobacco, mineral, and cedar, these are unmistakably Tuscan, which is something to try to wrap your head and palate around.

 
As 2004 was an ideal vintage in Tuscany, it makes sense to pay attention to the best. A recently-consumed bottle of the 1985 Sammarco proves these wines age beautifully and gracefully…if you can keep from pulling the corks. So add Castello dei Rampolla to your short-list of Tuscan go-tos. Dare I say they speak more of Tuscany than many Brunellos out there.

While we have been selling the 2005 Burgundies since early last year, we still have some new additions and purchases for the 2005 Burgundy campaign.  Allen Meadows of Burghound released issue 29 yesterday on the Cote de Nuits – The 2006 and 2005 Vintages.  Allen’s final reviews on the 2005 Cote de Nuits are even better than originally previewed and what was acknowledged as "the best vintage since 1978" is now being elevated to "one of the greatest vintages in the history of modern Burgundy."  Click here for all listings of the 2005 Cote de Nuits reds available before they sell out. 

A word to the wise:
Considering the strength of the dollar and the upward pricing pressure on the 2005s, use our advanced search to review our inventory for blue chip Burgundies from the 1993, 1995, 1996, 1999, 2001, and 2002 vintages.

I had an extraordinary experience last month.  I was invited to a special wine dinner at Spruce restaurant in San Francisco and oh my, was it an amazing evening!  Spruce is a product of those gastro-geniuses who created the Village Pub and Pizza Antica. This restaurant is truly a labor of love, as over three years passed between lease-signing and opening night, though I must say the décor, the food, and of course the wine list were certainly worth the wait.
Our evening started with Champagne: a beautiful 1990 Alain Robert, Clos de Mesnil Blancs de Blanc; an incredibly perfumed Champagne with hints of white flower, hazelnut, and spicy ginger.  On the palate, this wine was even more enticing with the richness and fullness of the 1990 vintage, combined with extraordinary vivacity and elegance.  
The first course of seared veal sweetbreads, (one of my favorite dishes), with pancetta, lentils, and glazed apples was perfectly married with a 1993 Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne from magnum.   It had beautiful fruit, retaining its youth with none of the “baby fat.”  Fantastic elegance and creaminess encompassed the palate from first sip to last, as did length and acidity, which balanced the richness of the sweetbreads.  
With the main course, a choice of either Poached Halibut, Savoy spinach, caramelized fennel, and Maitake mushrooms; or Honey-Lacquered Duck Breast, cinnamon-dusted foie gras, and plum gastric.  Though I ordered the duck, I can attest to the expert preparation of both, as we were all sharing.  Accompanying these exquisite dishes were a 1970 Château Pétrus ($2,299) and a 1970 Château Trotanoy from magnum.  It was a wonderful comparison: both from magnum, both 100% Merlot, both owned and managed by the same family, and both from my favorite vintage, 1970. They were still very much the rich and vibrant wines that I remembered.  The Pétrus had essence of sour cherry preserves and dark chocolate on the palate, with great acidity and length.  It was a impressive and powerful ’70.  The Trotanoy had a hint of herbaceousness and an almost baked bean taste, (molasses, spice, sugar, and pork), on the palate.  The longer it was in the glass, the more elegant it became.   Both of these chateaus excelled in 1970, and were the perfect foil for the duck with red berry fruits, mocha, and smoked meat.
After the main course, a delectable selection of artisan cheeses was paired with a 1970 Domaine de la Romanée Conti La Tâche.  Though the glass showed just a hint of bricking at the rim, the wine was not a bit oxidized.  Great nose with just a bit of that barnyard aroma found in so many ultra-traditional and older Burgundies.  On the palate, there was lots of fresh strawberry and mint, as well as a whisper of leather.  Elegant and beautiful as it lingered both in the glass and in the mouth, the length dissipated only after several minutes.
And the pièce de résistance was, obviously, the dessert course: Stone Fruit Bruschetta with vanilla olive oil and lemon verbena ice cream paired with an old German Riesling, a 1937 Staatsweingut Kiedricher Gräfenberg Trockenbeerenauslese. This is from one of the premier vineyards in Germany’s Rheingau region.  Though it is 100% Riesling, the color was dark apricot to almost medium ruby red.  It had aromas of coffee, mocha, and orange marmalade.  I do enjoy Sauternes, Ports, and Tokays, but the concentration and richness of this TBA was immeasurably better than any 1937 made outside Germany.  The acidity was so intense and the texture so luscious that the flavors lingered on my palate for at least 15 minutes. I left a little in my glass for another hour to check its progress.  Wow!  It was just as intense and vibrant an hour later as it had been in the beginning.  There is certainly something to be said for the provenance of a wine.  I knew exactly where that bottle had laid from the time it was first bottled until it was opened at Spruce almost 70 years later.
It was almost too much when the 1979 Diebolt-Vallois à Cramant arrived; almost, but not quite.  The Champagne was a stunning medium/dark golden color with a fine mousse.  Though it had reached full maturity, it was not a bit tired.  Both in the glass and on the palate, what struck me most was the combination of apple pie, tart green apples, cinnamon and nutmeg spice, and delightful creaminess.
These pairings made for an unforgettable evening, showcasing the incredible possibilites when the best in food and wine are enjoyed together.

I always love this wine. Brusset really "sticks to its guns." The wine is so consistent from vintage to vintage. There is natural winemaking at Brusset and the breakdown commonly offers a 50%/25%/25% split of Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah. It’s usually rather big but it’s always very clean and pure. Brusset makes a Côtes du Rhône and one or two Carianne, as well as their Gigondas Tradition. Parker’s Wine Buyer’s Guide rates the domaine, Les Hautes de Montmirail by Daniel Brusset, among only four "Outstanding" producers. I’ve never seen a rated vintage score lower than 89 points from either Parker or Tanzer.
 
A fairly subtle nose that continues to develop. Black cherry and some sautéed cherry mix with a more playful gumdrop flavor. There is a slight citrus note while the wine opens up with late developing flavors of chocolate and menthol. There is just a trace of tarmac -- along with darker cherry elements-- that you can expect to develop in this wine over the next ten to twelve years or so. To drink now, leave open in the glass or decant for an hour.

2005 Brusset - Gigondas Les Hauts du Montmirail ($40)

 
The winter months are the perfect time to explore sweet wines. Their viscosity, length and ultimate natural sweetness are ideal attributes to take the chill out of the air. I have to confess, I’m a fan of “Sweet Nectar," “Stickies” or “Liquid Gold” as the category is commonly referred to. However, one elixir that truly stands out for me is Hungarian Tokaji and the house putting this rare and historic beverage in the forefront is the Royal Tokaji Wine Company.

Like many great beverages, Hungarian Tokaji was created accidently  in the early 1600s. In 1700, Prince Rakoczi of Transylvania passed a decree to classify certain noted vineyards in the northeastern part of the country as 1st Growth, 2nd Growth and 3rd Growth. The Tokaji region was technically the first European viticultural region to institute a vineyard classification system, so move over Bordeaux.  Over the years, Tokaji Aszú (ah-SOO) has been a status symbol enjoyed by many royal courts from Louis XIV of France to the Russian Czars. It has been well documented that the Cossacks protected the most precious nectar, “Aszú Essencia,” while it was in transport to the Czar’s Palace in St. Petersburg.

After the fall of Communism in the late 1980s, the region started to make a comeback from decades of neglect. Noted English wine author Hugh Johnson and several others invested in one of the most esteemed wineries and its claim to top cru-rated vineyards. In 1989, The Royal Tokaji Wine Company was reborn, marking the beginning of the “Tokaji Renaissance” during which millions of dollars have been reinvested in the region, a recently designated World Heritage Site.

                                        

Similar to Sémillon from the Sauternes district, Tokaji fruit is susceptible to Botrytis Cinerea, (noble rot), due to mists that form at the confluence of the Tisza and Bodrog Rivers. The noble rot dries and shrivels the three notable varietals of the region: Furmint, Hárslevelú and Muscat. Tokaji Aszú has several categories of sweetness based on the measurement of noble rot-affected grapes that are kneaded into a paste and transported in 20-liter wooden tubs called “puttonyo.” The more puttonyos, the sweeter and more syrupy the wine base, which is marked on a 1 to 6 scale. It’s quite apparent that quality starts to kick in when you get to the “5 Puttonyos,” “6 Puttonyos” and “Essencia” levels; the finished product is priced accordingly.

I go bonkers for this stuff and am jazzed that we have three Royal Tokaji Wine Company Aszú(s) on the site, listed below. My mouth starts to water when I think about this rare juice. I refer to it as my “liquid strudel!” Why? I always get a golden raisin nuance throughout the palate spectrum. No other dessert wine category overloads my senses with a combination of flowery aromatics paired with apples, quince, apricots, marmalade and golden raisins. It’s common to detect back palate notes of butterscotch, carmely-brown sugar, honeyed nuts and a dash of chocolate on more aged versions. It’s possible to put a stopwatch on the super long and balanced finish, a true indication of a top-notch dessert wine. These wines are long-lived from the collector's standpoint. It has been documented that an Essencia bottling can age over a century!

I recommend pairing a 4 Puttonyos Aszú with a starter course of seared foie gras or duck liver terrine. The natural high acidity of the wine will cut through the fat of these preparations amazingly well. For the higher level of Puttonyos of 5 and 6 and then the rare Essencia, I suggest simple fruit tart preparations or, with more aged versions, a simple chocolate preparation or aged blue cheese. These wines are ideal food pairing candidates based on their low alcohol levels, which range from 8.5% to 10%. The rare and precious Essencia can be served on its own and quite often is portioned and served on a special tasting spoon!

Vinfolio is proud to showcase:

1999 Aszú Essencia - $449/500ml.
1993 and 1999 will go down as the best and only vintages that the Essencia category was made by the house. Because of its high residual sugar level, (600g/L), this wine fermented for six years and only tipped the scale at 2.9% alcohol. This could arguably be the most precious dessert wine in the world. Move over Château d’Yquem! You can be one of the few to take stock of only 600 bottles imported into the states.

2000 Tokaji Aszú ‘5 Puttonyos’ Birsalmas- $48/500ml. ~ Wine Spectator 94 points
A blend of all three noble varietals and aged in Hungarian oak for 5 years. Only 100 cases imported to the  states. Birsalmas is a single vineyard that translates to “quince.” Thus, the dominating fruit characteristic is indeed quince, backed with carmelized pear and pineapple.

1995 Tokaji Aszú ‘6 Puttonyos’ Mézes Mály- $103/500ml. ~ Wine Spectator 92 points
The Mézes Mály vineyard is one of the most noted 1er Cru vineyards of the district. Many consider it the most floral bottling of the house. Orange blossoms and fresh honey abound with a splash of juicy white peach and baked apple. The vineyard name, translated, means “honey pot." Say no more!

January is time to face the inevitable challenge of sticking to our well-intentioned New Year’s resolutions, so often having to do with our waistlines: a new diet, more exercise, and healthy eating!  You might have already stopped going to the gym, but before you give up completely, consider dessert wines as an easy replacement for high calorie after-dinner treats.  These days, dessert wines are made in just about every region, but the most famous remain Sauternes from Bordeaux, Tokaji from Hungary, and Vin Santo from Tuscany. 

Regardless of origin, all dessert wine is made by concentrating the sugars in the grape.  In the case of Sauternes and Tokaji, the winemakers use grapes that have also been affected by Botrytis, a mold that shrivels the grapes on the vine.  For Vin Santo, the grapes are dried, producing the same effect of concentrating the sugars. Producing these wines from vineyard to bottle is a very laborious process combined with an enormous amount of risk that’s taken with each vintage.   Understanding all that goes into these wines shows what a great value they truly are!  

Sauternes 

Origin: France–Bordeaux.  Five villages comprise the Sauternes region: Sauternes, Barsac, Priegnac, Fargues, and Bommes.

Grapes: Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle.

Brief History: Sauternes most likely began producing sweet wine in the 18^th century, though debate remains on specific dates.  Whether earlier or later, what is certain is the suitability of the region for the production of botrytis-infected nectar.  In late autumn, morning mist settles in the vineyards and then burns off during the warm days, providing perfect conditions for the growth of noble rot. 

In 1855, Sauternes was categorized into a three-tiered hierarchy, with Yquem at the top as the Premier Cru Supérieur (First Great Growth).  The premiers and deuxièmes crus follow and produce high quality, if somewhat less expensive, offerings. 

Browse the complete Vinfolio inventory of Sauternes. 

Some highlights from the Vinfolio wine store include: 

1990 Yquem ($425) 

2003 Yquem ($159) 

1988 Rieussec ($109) 

1990 Suduiraut ($69)

Food Pairing: Try with Foie Gras or mild Roquefort.  Considering the price and complexity of great Sauternes, they are often enjoyed by themselves.

Great Vintages: 2005, 2003, 2001, 1990, 1989, 1988, 1986

Tokaji 

Origin: Hungary – Tokaj-Hegyalja 

Grapes: Furmint, Hárslevelű and Muscat Lunel

Brief History: Tokaji was subject to the world’s first appellation control, beginning in 1730, decades before Port and more than 100 years before Bordeaux. Given Tokaji as a gift in 1703, Louis XIV entitled it the "Wine of Kings, King of Wines."

Tokaji is categorized according to the amount of aszú, or nobly rotten fruit, added to the base wine.  The concentration of the wine ranges from 3 to 6 puttonyos: the higher the number, the more concentrated and sweeter the wine.  The highest level of Tokaji is essencia, which has the highest concentration of flavor, and is therefore the most highly valued. 

Vinfolio currently offers the following selections:

1995 Royal Tokaji - Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos Mezes Maly ($103)

1999 Royal Tokaji - Aszu Essencia ($449)

Food Pairing: Pairs similarly as Sauternes, Tokaji is also ideal with fruit or nut-based based desserts and cheesecake.

Great Vintages: 1988, 1993, 1999, 2000, 2003, 2005

Vin Santo

Origin:  Italy, Tuscany.  Also made on the island of Santorini in Greece.

Grapes: Passito, Trebbiano Toscano, and Malvasia, as well as other local varietals.  There is also a red Vin Santo known as Occhio di Pernice made from Sangiovese and other local varietals.

Brief History: Vin Santo was known as Vin Pretto or “pure wine” prior to the 14^th Century, and was used in religious services.  Later, it became known as Vin Santo, but quality producers still make it in the traditional way.  The grapes are dried on racks and mats then aged in small, often chestnut, barrels known as caratelli.  Typically the barrels are not completely filled to allow a little room for air, which helps with the natural oxidation process.

From the Vinfolio wine store:

1999 Felsina Berardenga - Vin Santo del Chianti Classico ($33)

Food Pairing: Vin Santo goes well with desserts made with dried fruit and nuts, especially pecans, walnuts, and hazelnuts, as well as chocolate and caramel combinations

Great Vintages: There is a separate DOC appellation for Vin Santo, however, in vintage reports it is not separated from Chianti and so follows Chianti’s great vintages: 1997, 1999, 2001, 2004, and 2005.

Serving recommedations

One thing about the three of these wines is that when they are of good quality they all age well and develop beautifully in the bottle. Usually with Sauternes and Tokaji, their lifetime is referred to as timeless. All three of the wines should be served around 52 degrees, however, some people prefer their Vin Santo closer to room temperature.  Remember never serve this wine too cold or you will shut down all of those beautiful aromas.

Speaking of beautiful aromas…

You don’t often see is either Sauternes or Tokaji served in the best glass for this style of wine.   The glass pictured is part of the Sommeliers Line from Riedel and is specifically designed for enjoying these very aromatic wines.  This is a great example of how Riedel engineering makes a significant difference in our enjoyment of the wine in the glass!

As you embark on a new year of wine exploration, I hope the dessert you find in your glass gives you abundant motivation to stick to at least one of your New Year’s resolutions.  If you’re interested in reading more on dessert wines, (and being tempted by food pairings), check out Sweet Wines:  A Guide to the World’s Best with Recipes by James Peterson.

It was my turn to cook for a group of family and friends on New Year’s Eve.  I wanted to keep it simple and stress-free so I could spend more time with everyone.  The goal was to have simple pairings and let the wines show.  This was an easy prep which allowed me to fire and plate in no time.  

The most basic rule of pairing food and wine is to either “mirror” or “oppose” the components and characteristics of the dish and the wine.  Like matching colors, you can either mirror or oppose the different tastes, weights, and textures to create balance.  I chose to build the dishes around the wines.

Provençale Calamari Sautée with Toasted French bread
Wine: 2004 Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet ($50)
The sautée included olive oil, butter, white wine, tomatoes, garlic, lemon juice, and basil.  Niellon’s Chassagne AC is reference standard and an easy “go to.”  I buy this wine every vintage.  The 2004 has great acid, rich, succulent fruit, and a deliciously rich mid-palate.  This was a very simple pairing and a tasty starter.

Seared Mahi Mahi with a Mango Beurre Blanc over a Butternut squash purée
Wine: 2003 Ramonet Bienvenues-Batard Montrachet
I seared these in cast iron pans and finished them in the oven so I could get a nice carmelization on the fish to match the oak in the wine.  Mahi Mahi is meaty enough to stand up to the fatness of the BBM.  BBM is more feminine than Chevalier and has a trademark honeyed character.  The beurre blanc, mango, and the sweetness of the butternut squash were a perfect mirror for the 2003.

Grilled New York Steak with Truffle Butter, Garlic mashed potatoes, and Haricots Verts
Wine: 1999 Guigal Cote-Rotie Chateau d’Ampuis
This is a total no brainer.  I mirrored the smoky, meaty, and earthy components of the steak and truffle butter to this quintessential Cote-Rôtie.  I am always looking for 1999 Cote-Rôtie’s and you should too if you don’t own them already.  The D’Ampuis is sourced from Guigal’s estate vineyards. The first vintage was 1995 and this wine is the little brother of the La La’s (the big 3).  I decanted this for 2 hours and it finally budged.  This wine has tremendous glycerin and is a real mouthful of black fruits, smoke, tapenade, and jerky.

Other wines tasted:
NV Billecart Salmon Rose ($74)—goes unsaid as the best bang for your buck in NV Rose

1999 Dujac Chambolle-Musigny: Elegant, delicate, and perfumed.  All that is Chambolle and Burgundy.  An earthy concoction of red fruits, black cherry, and violets.  Finely detailed and balanced.  I picked up a slight iodine note underneath.  Drinking great now.

Over the holidays I decided to open my 3 liter of 2000 Catena Alta Cabernet Sauvignon that I had been saving for a special occasion. A few years ago I had been given this bottle as a wedding gift and wanted to share it with friends and family. It was a special treat to serve the wine from my magnum decanter to a table of thirteen, including guests from Boston, Miami, San Diego and San Paolo, Brazil. This Cabernet was a delicious pair to meat lasagna and tiramisu dessert. 

As a brief background, Catena Alta wines are a label produced by Bodegas Catena Zapata from Mendoza, Argentina. All of the Alta selections (Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay) are single varietal wines sourced from select rows of high altitude estate vineyards. The 2000 vintage is a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Malbec. During this wine’s particular growing season, the grapes benefited from warm days, adding body and concentration to the wine, as well as cool nights, providing balanced acidity and structure.

When my guests tasted this wine, the response was overwhelmingly positive. Some of the impressions included dark berry fruits such as plums and cassis. I was most struck by the chocolate and leather notes that intertwined elegantly with flavors of earth, cedar and vanilla. The wine had a full-bodied mouthfeel whose fruit and tannin structure was evident in the long finish.

Winemaker José Galante makes similar observations:

The 2000 Catena Alta Cabernet Sauvignon has a deep, dark ruby red color with violet and purple hues. The nose is powerful yet focused, with aromas of cassis and black currant fruit interwoven with a touch of eucalyptus, vanilla, cedar and leather. The mouthfeel is full, yet soft, with rich, concentrated flavors of plum and black cherry interwoven with hints of chocolate and sweet spice. The finish is structured and lingering, with firm yet finely grained tannins. 

In conclusion, I recommend that if you haven’t had the chance to try the wines by Bodegas Catena Zapata, in particular the Alta selections, 2008 is the time! The Vinfolio wine store is currently selling the 2004 Catena Alta - Cabernet Sauvignon ($44) and 2003 Catena Zapata, Nicolas - Cabernet Sauvignon ($92).