Vinfolio Blog

 

Many of us in the wine trade make New Year’s resolutions regarding how can we better balance our own collections, sharpen our palates, or promote hot categories to our collector/enthusiast fan base. I usually stick to my wine related resolutions better than my personal ones, but heck I’m a Wine Geek who is passionate to stay the course and spread the gospel. Below you will find my Ten Resolutions to make 2008 a worthy one for collecting and for exploring the unknown. The wine world is getting smaller and smaller and there’s no better time to think outside of the box.

1.    Purchase more wines using alternative closures. It’s time the wine world woke up and examined the alternative closure i.e. the Stelvin screwcap or Vino-Lok (http://www.vino-lok.de/). Save a cork tree! Your precious wine doesn’t have to be tainted anymore.  

2.    Buy exclusively from projects that stress organic farming practices. 100% Certified Organic is a bigger plus, but doesn’t mean to exclude all the wineries that haven’t registered with the governing body for an official certification. Stay with smaller producers and avoid bulk production out there!

3.    Taste and buy more Single-Grower Champagne and stay away from the large Luxury Houses that have to charge high prices to support their marketing costs and high-fashion packaging. Many Single Grower Champagnes are a third to half less than the noted “Big Boy” labels. More often than not, the juice is from highly rated Premier and Grand Cru vineyards.

4.    Touch base with us and your other reputable retailers to get the skinny on up-coming great vintages to stock in your cellar. 2002 Champagne, 2004 Tuscany, 2004 Piemdont, 2005 & 2006 Rhone, 2005 Red Burgundy, 2006 White Burgundy, 2006 Austria, 2006 Sweet Germany and 2006 California Cabernet Sauvignon.

5.    Make a point to learn more about Vinfolio’s VinCellar. It’s free to use once you sign up for an account. VinCellar is revolutionizing the way we track our collections of any size, from the 100-bottle newbie collection to the 1,000-bottle portfolio of a serious collector.  

6.    For those who use VinCellar, take a moment to contact Vinfolio to get an assessment of your collection. Certain wines are gaining value, but more importantly, know what wines need to be drunk now. Plan on that “Drink ‘Em Up” Party over the next year. Some of those wines are not getting any better!

7.    Stay away from the 16.0% and above for wines labeled as table wines. One more degree and you’re talking fortified. How to match foods with these wines is beyond me!

8.    Try more of the bizarre from ancient lands that have been making wines since Antiquity. In your market, look for more dry whites from Greece, Slovenia and Austria. They make for wonderful food pairings.

9.    Spain is the new European Power House! Branch out and try old-vine wonders from areas that have been too long overshadowed by Rioja and Ribera del Duero. Great entries from Bierzo, La Mancha, Toro, Montsant, Calatayud, Costers del Segre and Jumilla are redefining the category.  

10.    Time to really explore Italy with over 2,000 native varietals grown from Valle d'Aosta in the northeast to Calabria in the south. There are more flavors and price points than you can imagine. It’s not just about Pinot Grigio and Sangiovese anymore!

At Vinfolio's lovely Holiday Party at Medjool, here in San Francisco, we had a fun night of getting to know more about the people we spend so much time with during the day. Luckily for all of us, everyone was completely sane, fun and interesting, including the new hires we didn't yet know very well! This is good because you never know when you're growing as fast as we are.  Everyone had a great time tasting new wines and enjoying holiday revelry.

Since Vinfolio is all about the world of wine, a great double-benefit of our get-togethers is the chance to sample an assortment of our own offerings.  Along with some tasty small plates at the holiday party, we tasted some new finds and revisited others we might have enjoyed a time or two before. Here are a few of my favorites:
 
NV Ployez-Jacquemart - Brut Blanc de Blancs $42
Structure balanced with elegance. There are details in the highlights as well as a richness that keeps you consuming. I had more of this in my glass than any other wine. Very nice!
 
The Ployez-Jacquemart may inspire you to try some of his other selections:
NV Ployez-Jacquemart - Brut Selection Rose  (375ml, $27)
1998 Ployez-Jacquemart - Brut Vintage Blanc de Blancs $59
 
2006 Pra, Fratelli - Soave Classico Superiore Vigneto Monte Grande $25
An extremely flexible wine for casual sipping.  This wine has a lively feel showing layered flavors and good structure. Guests will love it!
 
1990 Lafaurie-Peyraguey $89
Though we had the 1986, it was a great reminder that I love this Sauternes, especially in great vintages like 1990. The '90 is yet another example of the "sweet spot" for me in wines--precise flavors and very persistent quality. It's a beautiful Sauternes and great with dinner from appetizer through dessert.
 
2004 Pallieres - Gigondas $23.95
Now that many more Americans have become familiar with some of the 'other' great Southern Rhone regions (outside Chateauneuf du Pape), the best wines of Gigondas usually can't be found for a price like this. Subtle spice with cherry-razzy charm and mineral lift. The wine is drinking well now and will hold for 5-7 years, no problem.
 
All of these wines get a complete stamp of approval for the continued celebrations in this season and would be great choices for a New Years get-together! That is the case whether or not you are enjoying them with people you don't yet know or those you know all-too-well!

The Holiday Season is in full swing rolling into the second week of December, as a barrage of holiday parties brings up the question of which beverage to bring to the party to elevate good cheer as well as complement a diversity of foods. My first recommendation is Champagne, specifically the “Single Grower” category. Many overlook Champagne because they think they have to jump to the $100 to $150 range to procure a grand bubbly. On the contrary, a stream of family-run and estate grown operations have been making their way into the U.S. in record numbers since the early 1990s. It’s not just about the “Big Boys” based in Epernay and Reims anymore. Production from this small band of producers is still a drop in the bucket when you consider that the top three Champagne brands account for over 65% of all the Champagne imported into this country.  

Wake up America! We have more choices than ever when it comes to excellent bubbly, and certain American retailers are taking a stance in the right direction, showcasing a variety of houses that emphasize their sense of place. Furthermore, these family-owned and operated houses frequently source from highly rated Grand Cru vineyards, in comparison to the luxury houses who only implement top-rated fruit in their most exclusive bottlings. Many of the luxury goods houses market a non-vintage category that is sweetened for the American palate. By law, a non-vintage Brut can receive a dose of sugar of up to 15 grams per liter. Many of the most recognizable and most mass produced non-vintage brands hit this mark. On the flip side, many of the “Single Grower” houses advertise a much lower dosage of sugar, averaging 6 to 9 grams per liter, allowing minerality and subtle fruit nuances to be revealed. Furthermore, many of these houses use a high percentage of Grand Cru rated fruit to make up the base for their entry level, non-vintage or multi-vintage category. You may need to spend an additional $5 to $15 on certain small house selections, but the rewards are tremendous, revealing Champagne as a truly serious wine, on par with high quality Burgundy!

I encourage the American wine public to make a New Year’s resolution to drink better quality Champagne and to demand more choices on its retail shelves from the “Single Grower” movement. The longer you are around fine wine, the more you will appreciate Champagne for its food pairing capabilities, diversity in site selection and style diversity. Vinfolio catalogues a healthy array of small producers from the non-vintage category to the vintage dated reserve cuvée. Below are six efforts that speak volumes for quality, making you seriously contemplate the unique and spectacular nature of Champagne.

Rene Geoffroy Brut 'Expression' NV   $42.00 / IWC 90

Move over Veuve ‘Yellow Label’! Geoffroy’s entry level is far from being on training wheels. It doesn’t get better for the category. Recently disgorged, 11/06, it’s split between the ’03 and ’04 vintage (24% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Meunier and 18% Pinot Noir). Be amazed by its refinement.

Rene Geoffroy Vintage Brut 1er Cru 1999   $65.00 / BH 92

The family traces ownership of their vineyards in Cumieres back to the 17^th century. This house specializes in ageing its base wines in oak foudres without malolactic fermentation. The 1999 is equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that is 100% wood vinified. This is precious nectar! Vinfolio was fortunate to source a few cases.

Roger Coulon Brut Millesime 2002    $58.00 / IWC 92

The cellars are based in Vrigny, although Eric and Isabelle Coulon own nine hectares spread across five different villages. The holdings have a high percentage of Pinot Meunier that average 40 to 60 years of age. The 2002 is approximately equal parts Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.

Jean Milan Vintage Brut 'Terres de Noel' 2002   $79.00 / IWC 92

You can’t talk about Chardonnay-driven estates without mentioning this Oger-based superstar. ‘Terres de Noel’ is a 50 year-old parcel that remains one of the finest of all the Blanc de Blancs. The 2002 vintage has been considered the best Chardonnay vintage since the heralded 1996. Tasty now, but will age gracefully for another 3 to 6 years.

Pierre Gimonnet 'Brut Paradoxe'1er Cru 2002   $49.00 / IWC 92

Growers in the village of Cuis since 1750, this house specializes in Chardonnay. However, the ‘Paradoxe’ incorporates 50% Pinot Noir from the ‘Les Clefs’ climat in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. The Pinot Noir really shines on the nose!

Bruno Paillard 'Brut Millesime Assemblage' 1996     $55.00 / IWC 92

The house of Paillard, based in Reims, is the vision of Bruno Paillard, who built the house from scratch. This was one of the first firms to include disgorgement dates on the back label.  The 1996 vintage is one of my favorites for this spectacular vintage at a song of a price.

'Tis the Season as they say…for drinking multiple bottles of wine in good company. Here are 8 great wines to be purchasing in case quantity. For sure, they are excellent values. But importantly for this time of year they are wines that pass several of my tests for purchasing by the case:

1) Great quality to price ratio
2) Wines that are less familiar – good conversation starters
3) Perfect for drinking with or without food – great “cocktail” or aperitif wines
4) Pairing proficiency – they will pair with a variety of foods, cooking styles, seasonings and seasons (spring through winter)
5) Palate pleasing – wine that will please all guests
6) Ready to enjoy – at least with some air, or time in the glass, the wine will show itself well

Here they are listed in alternating White and Red, just like a candy cane!

2006 Cheveau, Michel - Macon Solutre-Pouilly Sur le Mont $18
Chardonnay
Fresh! That's the name of the game here with a sublime entry of apple-citrus, fresh creamery butter and liquid quartz mainline mineral. This is a fabulous wine that attains a much higher plain then its humble appellation reveals. A palate that is crisp and polished with perfect lift and golden apple, crème brûlée and fresh fig vying for prominence. Very elegant and precise. You could easily pay double.  - Cyrille Hanson, Vinfolio

2003 Sportoletti - Villa Fidelia $33.95
Merlot, Cab, Cab Franc
Clean red, with plum, berry and a hint of floral and dark chocolate character. Full-bodied, with fine tannins and a well-balanced, fresh mineral finish. Delicious even now. Lots of new wood. 3,000 cases made. - James Suckling, Wine Spectator

2005 Margerum - Sauvignon Blanc Purisima Mountain Vineyard $22
Doug Margerum produces many wines but this would be my choice for the "Desert Island" providing I had a corkscrew. This is the last of the 2005 available, so don't be shy. The aromas are violet, creamy white peach, flint and a pure expression of grape. The flavors are beautifully focused with crisp stone fruit flavors that continue to soften on the palate. - Doug Wilder, Vinfolio Issue 122

2003 Rockburn - Pinot Noir $ 29
Good medium red. Dark cherry, spices, smoked meat, fresh herbs and brambly underbrush on the nose. Sweet, silky and fresh, with nuanced flavors of red berries, mocha, sassafras and earth; showed increasing definition as it opened in the glass. Finishes with rather soft tannins and a slight edge of acidity. - Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar Issue 122

2006 Hiedler, Ludwig - Gruner Veltliner Thal $25
Medium green-yellow. Pronounced tropical fruit and nutty components are interwoven with tobacco-like spice and pineapple on the nose and in the mouth. Full-bodied and juicy, thanks to playful acidity. Flavors of sweet yellow peach, green peppercorn and minerals persist impressively on the finish. Still has tremendous potential for further development in the bottle. Drink 2008 to 2018. - Peter Moser, International Wine Cellar Issue 135

2005 Numanthia - Termes $25
Tempranillo
Dark ruby. Ripe cherry and plum aromas are complicated by espresso and dark chocolate. Powerful, densely packed dark berry flavors are distinctly ripe, with chewy tannins adding structure. And yet this is surprisingly light on its feet, finishing with gentle acid lift and brighter red berry character. Not a blockbuster by any stretch.  - Josh Raynolds, International Wine Cellar Issue 134

2006 Pra, Fratelli - Soave Classico Superiore Vigneto Monte Grande $25
Garganega
A rich, perfumed nose of golden apple and pear leaps out of the glass. Fresh, effusive notes of mineral-laden lemon oil, apple butter and crisp Anjou pear hang about and are finished off with a dry, honeyed/marzipan aspect. Lively and refreshing despite its broad, intense palate. Gorgeous and bursting with flavor. A top-notch producer that doesn't skimp on quality. - Cyrille Hanson, Vinfolio

2004 Pallieres - Gigondas $23.95
Grenache blend
Medium red. Highly complex aromas of red fruits and pungent herbs, warmed by a gentle toasty oak tone. Suave flavors of raspberry and cherry are accented by lavender and bitter chocolate. Finishes on a sweet note, with dusty tannins and a lingering spice character.

2006 Venica & Venica - Pinot Grigio $19
Great fruit and structure with clean, crispness despite a more giving, lushness than lesser Grigio.

The 2005 Vogué Musigny Vieilles Vignes may be the wine of the vintage for 2005 red Burgundy!  This was just released on our website today.  Allen Meadows comments, "whether it will ultimately transcend the heights achieved by the 1919 or the 1949 remains an open question."  

2005 Vogué, Comte de - Musigny (Vieilles Vignes)   $1,450   6 bottle limit  
BH 96-99    Drink Date: 2020+  Comments: Don’t Miss
IWC 95-98
WA 96-98

Commune: Chambolle-Musigny
Commune Characteristics: Chambolle-Musigny produces the most delicate wines in the Cote de Nuits showing more perfume, elegance, silk and lace.  Clive Coates describes it as the "ballerina," rather that the "shot putter."
Vineyard: Le Musigny grand cru

Vineyard/terroir notes:  
•    One of the very greatest climats in the whole of the Cote d'Or with Chambertin, Chambertin Clos de Beze, la Tache, and Romanee-Conti
•    Up slope--oolite, limestone further down, high in limestone
•    Red clay not found elsewhere
•    Northern part is Grand Musigny or simply Musigny
•    Southern--les Petits Musigny--monopole of Vogué

There are three climats in Musigny.  Vogué has a monopole on one of the two best climats, les Petits Musigny (4.2 ha), which their ancestors have owned since 1766.  They own a whopping 66.5% of the entire vineyard.  Four domaines in total own 90% of Musigny (Prieur, Mugnier, and Drouhin, along with Vogue).

Vineyard Characteristics:
•    Majesty itself, the "queen" rather than the "king" when you think of texture and character
•    At it best, the most delicious grand cru in Burgundy
•    Harmonious, complex, profound bouquet, and balance
•    Petits fruits rouges galore, breed, purity

Allen Meadows comments that Musigny "combines power, richness, finesse, and complexity.  It is one of the two or three supreme expressions in all of Burgundy.  There is no shortage of Burgundy lovers who will claim that the greatest red Burgundy they have ever tasted is between the '45, '47, or '49 Musigny from Comte de Vogué."
 
Top Musigny domaines:
•    Vogue (7.14ha)
•    Mugnier (1.14ha)
•    Prieur (77a)
•    Drouhin (67a)
•    Leroy (27a)
•    Jadot (17a)
•    Roumier (10a)
•    Faiveley(3a)

Surface area: 10.86 ha
Average Production: 39,600 bottles

1ha = 2.471 acres
100 acres = 1 ha