I have a love affair with Aglianico [
ah-LYAH-nee-koh]! Maybe it’s my nonconformist attitude of branching out to uncommon growing regions that deserve the spotlight. Perhaps it’s that I need more variety in my life. For Italian wine enthusiasts, Agliancio might be familiar, but usually mentioned as an afterthought to Sangiovese from Tuscany and Nebbiolo from Piedmont. Well, the 'Aglianco Renaissance' is alive and well, establishing itself as the banner grape varietal of Southern Italy. Campania and Basilicata lay claim to the finest Aglianico with new plantings popping up in neighboring Puglia and even in Sicily. The grape is believed to have originated in Greece, but it was the Phoenicians who were responsible for its arrival, first into Basilicata and then later migrating into Campania. The name is derived from 'Ellenico,' one of the Italian adjectives to indicate of 'Greek' origin. Aglianico was famous in the ancient world for the production of 'Falernum,' an ancient wine that was highly prized by Roman nobility and the literary community.
The vine was almost wiped out from both phylloxera and a poor economy in the late 19th and early 20th century with only a band of a few family estates willing to tend to the ancient vine. The house of Mastroberardino based in Avellino is credited for the revival of the varietal in the late 1960s. Back then and even today, the finest Campanian Aglianico is sourced from the village of Taurasi, the only D.O.C.G. village classification in the region. The wines of Taurasi are long lived and have similar ageing qualities to Piedmont’s Nebbiolo found in the esteemed villages of Barolo and Barbaresco. I highly recommend Italian collectors to make room for some Taurasi in their cellars. These wines can age gracefully for 5 to 15 years. I have tasted well-aged Taurasi and it’s memorable for its silky layers of dried dark fruits, leather and tobacco.
Today, Aglianco production has doubled from the late 1970s and some very impressive and approachable versions may be found in the D.O.C.s of Avellino, Irpinia and Taburno with affordable price tags to boot. Genetically, Aglianico has a high tannin and acid component, which makes for a great cellar-worthy wine, comparable to great Nebbiolo. Younger vine versions are made in a softer style emphasizing primary fruit. Beyond its chemical makeup, Aglianco on the palate opens up to primary fruits of blackberries, black cherries, black currants followed by nuances of smoky tar, tobacco, licorice and coffee-espresso notes. Aglianico deserves slow roasted or braised meat dishes. However, a grilled burger or favorite steak preparation can pair marvelously with a younger, fruitier rendition.
Vinfolio is proud to feature three 100% Aglianicos and five Aglianico inspired blends from Campania, geared more for the cellar. The 2001s listed on the site can be enjoyed now, but I do recommend aerating for a solid 90 minutes in a decanter. Leg of Lamb anyone? Below are four of my highest recommendations!
2001 Caggiano - Taurasi Vigna Macchia dei Goti ($39, IWC 94)
Fasten your seat belts for an Aglianico tour de force … vigorous but elegant. Taurasi at an attractive price!
2003 Masseria Felicia - Falerno del Massico ($62)
The Falerno del Massico D.O.C. is north of Naples, not far from Vesuvius. Old-vine Aglianico (80%) and Piedirosso (20%) are grown on volcanic ash. Maybe one of the most profuse violent blossom noses I've come across of any Italian wine. 2003 Galardi - Terra di Lavoro ($115)
The Galardi estate is based in the high volcanic hills of Sessa Aurunca in northwestern Campania, north of Naples. 80% of the blend is Aglianico rounded out with native Piedirossso and Cabernet Sauvignon. The Gambero Rosso guide honored the 2003 with the highest rating of three glasses. Worth every penny!2001 Terredora di Paolo – Taurasi ($41, Vinfolio 92)
Campania’s largest producer and vineyard owner made an ethereal Taurasi in 2001. An extremely balanced wine in its youth! The featured offering goes beyond appellation regulations by ageing the wine for 30 months in French barrique and another 18 months in bottle.
