What with the stellar 2001s and 2004s that stand to benefit from cellar aging and the disappointing 2002s, I would like to offer the argument that the more value-oriented of the 2003 Piedmontese wines most greatly reward current drinking. I recently enjoyed Aldo Conterno’s 2003 Langhe Quartetto ($26) to unwind after watching a tension-inducing vampire movie. A novel blend composed mostly of the traditional Nebbiolo with 25% each of Cab and Merlot, and a splash of Barbera with each vinified individually, this medium-bodied wine was a striking blood red at the core with a slightly watery rim. I initially perceived an aroma eerily reminiscent of the dark, juicy, warm plums picked from my childhood backyard, followed by sleek black leather and blood-dampened earth. Ok, perhaps the movie was still on my mind. Easily quaffable and simply pleasurable, the Quartetto displayed a notably modern winemaking style without disregard for its venerable terroir. It was also enjoyable the following evening with braised short ribs.
