On Saturday, June 9th I attended the fourth annual
Golden Glass tasting event at the
Fort Mason Herbst Pavilion in San Francisco. This lively wine tasting event featured
seventy Italian producers showcasing 130 Italian indigenous & regional wines, complimented by culinary delights from leading
Bay Area restaurateurs and food producers. This educational event was a fundraiser for the
Slow Food USA organization promoting biodiversity and the campaign to “
Buy Fresh, Buy Local.”
Once inside the tasting, my tasting options were quite daunting. I, however, attempted to explore the room according to traditional tasting order beginning with sparkling wines, followed by the whites, and finishing with the reds (a method which was often foiled, of course, by sudden discoveries, but I can say that at least I tried). What I found most refreshing was that most of the producers were unfamiliar to me and thus provided lots of opportunity to try something entirely new. The four tables represented 17 of Italy’s wine regions grouped by the North East, North West, Central, and the South & Islands.
After considerable tasting, the following wines were my noted favorites:
- 2006 Pedres Vermentino di Gallura Jaldinu (Sardegna) – A crisp white that refreshes the palate and would a great starter to a summer meal. A good value too!
- 2005 Cantine Gran Furor Ravello Bianco (Campania) – Perhaps I am biased because I honeymooned on the Amalfi Coast, but this local blend of 60% Falanghina and 40% Biancolella really caught my notice. It was both elegant and simple, displaying flavors of citrus, green apple and almond.
- 2001 Fornacina Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva (Toscana) – In additional to the riserva, their regular Brunello was also excellent. Both wines showed classic Tuscan Sangiovese characteristics including dark cherry fruit, earthy tones and a long finish. The riserva had me coming back for more.
- 2001 Castello del Terriccio Lupicaia (Toscana) – This classy Supertuscan combined Terriccio’s best Cabernet and Merlot grapes to create a high caliber blend. The sensual, velvety texture of wine on the palate was riveting as well as the rich, dark berry fruit. The flavors here justify the existence of “cult” wines.
- 2004 Oasi degli Angeli Kurni (Marche) – This was an ultra dark, dense red wine made from old vine Montepulciano grapes grown in the Marche region. The flavors were more complex than expected from what is often considered a “rustic” grape. I was impressed by the wine’s concentration and amused by the name “Angel’s Oasis.”
- 2001 Milziade Antano Sagrantino di Montefalco “Colleallodole” (Umbria) – What first caught my attention was the drama of two Italian men pouring their dark wine through multiple decanters to make the flavors just right. This kind of aeration makes sense since Sagrantino is known as one of the most tannic varieties found anywhere in the world. When finally able to take my first sip, I knew that I had found something special. The flavors were complex with definite blue chip appeal and a tannic structure to allow for long aging.
It would be remiss to ignore the alluring flavors from the local restaurants. These three were my most memorable treats:
- Kuleto’s warm, freshly made mozzarella balls drizzled in olive oil, with a salt garnish. – Wow, this cheese just melted in your mouth! This bite-sized starter was definitely a crowd pleaser, reminding me of the power of simple, but authentic Italian cuisine.
- A16’s roasted pork – A perfect pair with the red wines and scrumptious in its flavor.
- Quince’s peach soup – This dessert-like “soup” had the purest fruit flavor that I have ever tasted. It was the perfect palate cleanser and an excellent example of high quality flavor extracted from local fruit.
In conclusion, despite finding quality in all parts of the tasting, my favorite wines came from Italy’s central and southern zones - a kudos to the upcoming South! Furthermore, if after reading these wine reviews, you wish to continue your exploration of Italian wines, you can try some of the comparable selections I have chosen from Vinfolio’s inventory (by regions central to south):
Toscana
2001 Banfi - Brunello di Montalcino ($50)
2001 Poderina - Brunello di Montalcino Poggio Banale ($95)
1990 Antinori – Tignanello ($199)
2004 Brancaia - Il Blu ($72)
Umbria 1998 Caprai, Arnaldo - Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 Anni ($74)
2001 Fiorita Lamborghini – Campoleone ($49)
Lazio 2005 Monastero Suore Cistercensi – Coenobium ($15)
1998 Falesco – Montiano ($49)
Abruzzo 2003 Ronchi, Umani - Montepulciano D'Abruzzo Jorio ($15)
Campania 2001 Feudi di San Gregorio – Serpico ($79)
2001 Montevetrano ($82)
Basilicata 2003 Notaio - Rosato di Aglianico del Vulture Il Rogito ($17)
