($62) Deep red-ruby. Red berries, spicy oak, menthol and woodsy underbrush on the nose; very sangiovese. Broad and vinous, with lovely sweetness to the flavors of redcurrant and red licorice. Sexy, fat wine with plenty of acidity to carry its considerable body. Finishes long, with substantial fine tannins that dust the teeth. (Paterno Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL)

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Very dark crimson. Very distinctive - lively old style with a noticeable level of volatility. Hint of mint too. Sweet, transparent start and then very racy, lively true fruit. Very much holding itself back for Riserva bottling I feel. But utterly correct and seductive within those lights.

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This historic property located in Sant'Angelo in Colle traces its roots back to the late 1800s. Today the wines are made by Fabrizio Bindocci, who cut his teeth working alongside Piero Talenti, one of the most famous figures in the world of Montalcino oenology. Although some small concessions are made to modern tastes the wines remain quite classic in their expression of Sangiovese. Il Poggione's 2001 Brunello di Montalcino opens with a very distinctive nose redolent of scorched earth, tobacco and cherries initially showing a wilder side of Sangiovese in its hints of gaminess. It is full-bodied and structured on the palate, where it offers plenty of fruit, with considerable length as well as big, potent tannins. This backward, hulking Brunello is in need of considerable cellaring and is clearly built for the long haul. It is a wine of great personality and character. A recent bottle of the 1985 was also outstanding.

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Complex and seductive, with blackberry and cherry character with just a hint of cedar. Full-bodied and chewy, with loads of fruit. Extracted and tannic, but should come around. 16,000 cases made.

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