THE WILDER SIDE OF CALIFORNIA
Doug Wilder, Issue 68

With the harvest fast approaching, we are beginning to see the release of some of the core reds from Napa Valley. I tasted over 100 wines in recent weeks, and these listed below have risen to the top. Most are small production and subject to allocation.

Sean Larkin has created quite a buzz during his first half-dozen vintages, starting with the 1999. He gets fruit from some of the top vineyard sources in the valley and has received consistently favorable reviews from critics for his Cabernets. I have known Sean for a long time (since he was a wholesaler and broker), and this is the first I have been able to talk him out of any wine. I think the wait was worth it. Late last year I talked about Vinoce, owned by Brian and Lori Nuss. Their property on the west side of the valley, on Mt. Veeder, produces big wines that age beautifully. Based primarily on Cabernet Franc, they make a bold style statement from this boutique producer. Harris Estate in Calistoga has the highly regarded talents of Mark Herold making the wine. This is their second release of Cabernet Sauvignon, on the heels of the well received 2002 release, and it includes a pair of distinctive wines. They have caught the attention of The Wine Advocate who loved the wines in barrel.

California is brimming with exciting new producers, and I recently tasted a very promising one called Bialla Vineyards made by Craig MacLean. The vineyard is perched near the top of Atlas Peak with "above the fog" exposure. The premiere release is fascinating. At the other end of the spectrum is the 19th vintage of Fisher Vineyards Coach Insignia. The estate grown valley floor vines across the street from the Eisele Vineyard have provided the backbone of the legacy of this family owned winery.

2004 Larkin - Cabernet Franc, Napa Valley; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
Sean Larkin brings us his newest release of the wine that started it all -- his Cabernet Franc. Sourced from selected vineyards along the valley floor and Pritchard Hill, they have built a devoted following.

Notes of dark chocolate in the nose with hints of black fig and medjool date. On the palate the satin polished fruit delivers seamlessly smooth chocolate, black raspberry and cherry with firm tannins. Drink: 2006-2014.

2004 Larkin - Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
Sean Larkin has recently introduced a Cabernet Sauvignon to his portfolio, and those of us who know him and have followed his string of successes with the Franc all wonder what took him so long.

A nose showing saturated dark chocolate / mocha and white cherry aromas. The palate gushes with full ripe cherry nectar merging with a toasty mid palate of seamless black fruits. Drink: 2006-2014.

2003 Vinoce - Proprietary Red, Mt. Veeder; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
Brian and Lori Nuss have carved out a beautiful vineyard site in an area where there are not that many visible vineyards. When I visit there I must remind myself that I am only 10 minutes from Highway 29. It seems like another region, as none of the familiar valley topography is apparent. Vinoce is a truly hidden gem that intends on staying small. They sell fruit to Robert Craig and Ehlers Grove, both having received excellent acclaim for their bottlings. Recent tasting of the premiere vintage, 1997, showed gorgeous complexity.

Aromas of chocolate, lavender and honeysuckle weave through the nose with hints of espresso. Very smooth and rich on the palate with flavors of lush java, powdered chocolate and black plum. Drink: 2006-2014.

2003 Harris Estate - Cabernet Sauvignon Jake's Creek Vineyard; Vinfolio rating: 95 points
In only their second vintage, Mike and Treva Harris, along with winemaker Mark Herold, have captured the attention of discerning collectors. Herold calls it one of the best sites he knows for Cabernet. Jake's Creek is one of three parcels on the estate and is named for Mike's Black Labrador, who succumbed to cancer this summer. I tasted the 2002 vintage last year, and the wines were excellent.

A nose oozing with aromas of chocolate brownie, super-rich shadings of tobacco, creme brulee and spicy java. The palate is concentrated with distinctive black cherry, tea and black fruits. Beautiful acidity for aging. Drink: 2006-2020.

2003 Harris Estate - Cabernet Sauvignon Treva's Vineyard; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
Paul Hobbs bought the first fruit sold by the Harris', and Michael Black is Vineyard Manager. (This place had greatness written all over it from the beginning.) Treva's Vineyard, like Jake's, is planted to Clone 337. Mark Herold told Mike he should be fired if he can't make great wine from this parcel.

Aromas of clove, jasmine and fruit blossoms in the nose frame vibrant currant and blueberry. There is a decided elegance to the wine with excellent tannins. The palate provides balanced flavors of black cherry with tantalizing hints of red fruits that lead to a long finish. Drink: 2006-2020.

2003 Bialla - Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
Winemaker Craig MacLean is involved in a number of small production wineries that I am just beginning to hear about. One I have tried lately is coming from a vineyard source that seems like it is on the other side of the moon. Vito and Linda Bialla's vines are situated at the furthest reaches of the only road to meander up Atlas Peak. It seems to take forever to get there, but upon arrival it is certainly worth it. An engaging recent visit with Vito in his intimately sized cave at the vineyard introduced me to their excellent premiere release. This is certainly one to watch.

An infinitely complex wine showing dark cherry and mocha in the nose with smoky, rich aromas of black fruit. Big and bold flavors on the palate; cherry and blackberry showing exuberant youth in the mouth. Hints of violets, cinnamon, spice, licorice and chocolate are found throughout. Drink: 2006-2012.

2002 Fisher - Cabernet Sauvignon Coach Insignia, Napa Valley; Vinfolio rating: 94 points
From vineyards on the alluvial loam of the northern floor of the Napa Valley. Coach Insignia has been the anchor of Fred Fisher's red wine program since 1984. Other sources such as Stagecoach Vineyard have been added in the past, but this one is now being produced from the estate, which is also the source for the Lamb Vineyard designate, named for Juelle Lamb-Fisher. David Abreu is responsible for developing the vineyards, and Mia Klein consults with winemaker Whitney Fisher, who is embarking on her 8th vintage at the family owned winery. Tasted at the winery.

A boldly precocious nose of huckleberry and white cherry tart. The palate is exceptionally deep with anise, black figs, earthy tar and creme cassis. Pure blackberry extract on the finish. Excellent tannins will keep this wine humming for years. Drink: 2006-2016.

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