THE WILDER SIDE OF CALIFORNIA
Doug Wilder, Issue 67

On the eve of the final weekend of summer, I present a group of what I consider irresistible wines. What they share in common is that they all come from single vineyards offering the highest order of uniqueness. We have already established the popularity of Pinot Noir, and there seems to be a plentitude to choose from. Within the last week, I have experienced a few that are very limited in production and noteworthy. The selection is led by another mind bending example from the Dierberg Vineyard courtesy of Joe Davis at Arcadian. Tasting a wine from this source is enough to sway even the most hard-bitten pessimist. His efforts with the 2002 vintage (VF 94) were recognized in Vinfolio's "Top 25 of 2005". The current example from Arcadian has built on the experience of that wine to be, in my opinion, among the top wines I have tasted all year. The Arcadian is joined by three other Pinot Noir which are extremely limited and subject to allocation.

The Kanzler Vineyard has developed a stellar reputation in the hands of winemakers who purchase the fruit. The example made by Kosta-Browne received a 98-point rating from Wine Spectator. Just try to find any now! I was recently tipped off that Steven Kanzler himself is releasing an estate grown example of his wine, and my tasting with him confirmed it is delicious.

The following pair of producers and sources barely need any introduction. They represent some of the most highly allocated and desirable Pinot Noir produced, a couple examples of wines that come my way which are "take it or leave it" propositions. As such, they were not tasted or rated.

Can I write enough about the wines of Walter Hansel? The Block 6 designated wine from the Hirsch Vineyard was recently made available to us (in limited quantities), and even though I haven't tasted it, I am confident it will provide an exceptional experience for those fortunate enough to pick some up. Wine Spectator identified the Hirsch Vineyard as "possibly America's first grand cru." Lastly, there is a small amount of Sean Capiaux's Pinot Noir from the Pisoni Vineyard that we received as a special allocation. I don't expect these will last long either, despite the fact I have not reviewed them.

2003 Arcadian - Pinot Noir Dierberg Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley; Vinfolio rating: 98 points
Joe Davis has done something unusual for most wineries; he has nearly tripled production of his Dierberg Vineyard Pinot Noir in one year, and the wine has gotten better. Arcadian produced about 250 cases in 2002, and the wine received a VF 94 rating making it into my "Top 25 of 2005". It was a significant wine among Pinot Noir I selected last year. In regards to the 2003, the production is about 700 cases now, which is still small. I was instantly enchanted when I tasted this wine last week and have taken a large position in it; Vinfolio is the first to offer it. I spoke with Joe on the phone today, and he mentioned that the changes in fruit they are receiving from Dierberg includes some Pommard clone. The overall blend is now roughly balanced with additional clones 31, 13 and 115. Joe agreed with me that the Pommard gives the wine substantial richness throughout.

Exceptional depth and richness to the aromas; black cherry, spice with hints of pomegranate and cranberry. The palate attack is unerringly smooth leading to concentrated and well integrated flavors of black cherry, cranberry and spice. The overall impression is simply unrivaled. Drink: 2006-2016.

2004 Kanzler - Pinot Noir Estate, Russian River Valley; Vinfolio rating: 96 points
Premiere release. Steve Kanzler has made a meteoric rise to the pinnacle of Pinot Noir production in Russian River, if not all of America. The name designated on a bottle essentially guarantees a special experience inside. I tasted this wine at the Family Winemaker event in San Francisco in August and was impressed enough to place an immediate order. The 20-acre vineyard, planted in 1996, also provides grapes to Roessler, CL, and Kosta Browne, who just received a 98-point rating from Wine Spectator. The vineyard is planted to a classic mix of Dijon 667 and 115 along with Pommard. When a grower of this stature begins producing a wine, I always expect excellence. Kanzler has not disappointed me.

Pure black cherry, lavender and violet aromas are effusive in the glass leading to a smooth palate of black raspberry, cherry, strawberry and violet. Beautifully balanced wine with excellent structure. Drink: 2006-2016.

The following two wines are available in extremely limited quantities. They represent the highest evolution of excellence in Pinot Noir in America.

2003 Hansel, Walter - Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard Block 6, Sonoma Coast; Vinfolio rating: not rated
David Hirsch has created an enviable track record for his uncompromising viticulture. It is yet another name that denotes excellence when affixed to a bottle of Pinot Noir. The small production Hirsch designates from Hansel will continue this reputation. Block 6 of the Hirsch Vineyard is planted to Swan Clone. 5 barrels produced.

2004 Capiaux - Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands; Vinfolio rating: not rated
It isn't a secret that the wines from Sean Capiaux are highly regarded and correspondingly in demand. I have worked with the wines since their beginning and was fortunate to extract a small amount of this coveted designate from the winery to complete this offer. The wines are always brilliant examples of American Pinot Noir.

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