THE WILDER SIDE OF CALIFORNIA
Doug Wilder, Issue 64

Believe me; no one is more surprised than I that there has not yet been an issue of The Wilder Side of California devoted completely to Zinfandel. There couldn't be a more appropriate time to take a look at Zin either, as their robust flavor profile matches well with grilled foods, the staples of summertime. The wines discussed in this issue all possess excellent concentration; a few are best described as overtly hedonistic. Most of the wines are new releases tasted within the last month, yet there are a few that many have enjoyed in previous offers. Virtually all of them come from Northern California, home to the very best. Moreover, the availability on these wines is fairly limited. These are not your grocer Zinfandels and are worthy of your attention.

2001 Quivira - Zinfandel Wine Creek Ranch, Dry Creek Valley; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
Quivira has very quietly ascended to producing excellent wines while embracing organic, and now fully certified Biodynamic agricultural methods. All wines from Quivira are Estate grown. Zinfandel is their main wine and winemaker Grady Wann produces many excellent examples here. The designated wines are produced in quantities from 200 to 850 cases. The 2001 Wine Creek is a library selection and drinking beautifully. The ranch was planted to head-pruned vines in 1961 in very shallow soils.

Very dark purple in color, showing a supple nose of licorice, olive tapenade, black fruits with hints of black pepper. On the palate I find low acidity, smooth and plump blackberry, spicy clove and mint. Drink: 2006-2007.

2002 Quivira - Zinfandel Anderson Ranch, Dry Creek Valley; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
These are relatively young vines planted in 1994 on the extreme eastern side of the appellation. As with all of Quivira's vines, yields are kept extremely low.

A richly deep purple in color continuing with a deep, saturated nose of dark fruits giving off gobs of jammy blackberry, plum and rich cherry. The finish is smooth vanilla nougat and spice, very nice. Drink: 2006-2009.

2003 Dashe - Zinfandel Louvau Vineyard Old Vines, Dry Creek Valley; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
Michael Dashe knows Zinfandel, having developed his style for the varietal at none other than Ridge Vineyards, one of the true benchmark sources for the grape, under Paul Draper. Dashe Cellars was founded to produce wines in the style he learned there. Their label shows a monkey riding on the back of a fish. Decide for yourself what that means...

Louvau Vineyard was originally planted in the mid 1930s, but the vines had fallen into disarray under mountains of blackberry vine and weeds until 1989 when new owner John Louvau began to restore the ancient, gnarly, head-pruned vines to productive health. Yields are low due to the ancient riverbed where the grapes are planted. Purple in color with magenta, the aromas are bold and juicy, raspberry and chocolate/cherry showing a little heat initially which is moderated by a bit of air. The flavors are intense chocolate and raspberry with mouth coating velvet-like tannins. Drink: 2006-2010.

2003 Dashe - Zinfandel Todd Brothers Ranch, Alexander Valley; Vinfolio rating: 90 points
The Todd Brothers site is quite unique. The gnarly, old vines are planted on a ridiculously steep rocky volcanic hillside in Geyserville. Blended with 2% Petite Sirah for a hint of spiciness. To balance the intense fruit, only about 20% new French oak was used in the aging program. The nose reminds me of a warm chocolate brownie, soft and luxurious feel to the flavors. A bit of cranberry and pomegranate on the finish. Drink: 2006-2015.

2004 Copain - Zinfandel Arrowhead Mountain, Sonoma County; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
A lot has been written here and elsewhere about the honest and delicious wines crafted by Wells Guthrie. Two of the last three vintages reviewed by The Wine Advocate received 95-point ratings. Arrowhead Mountain is a unique, steeply exposed site where yields seldom exceed a ton per acre. I rated the 2003 vintage 93 points.

Aromas of pretty blueberry, black raspberry and mineral-laced salt. Red raspberry and long, pure flavors on palate. Not a highly extracted style, but elegant; a cerebral Zinfandel. Drink: 2006-2012.

2002 Scherrer - Zinfandel Old and Mature Vines, Alexander Valley; Vinfolio rating: 91 points
Fred Scherrer began making wine at Dehlinger before founding his own brand in 1991 and finally devoting himself to it full-time in 1998. The winery produces a broad mix of varietals seldom seen these days from a boutique producer the scale of Scherrer. All of the wines are solid, high quality works.

Grown on the Scherrer Family Vineyard, farmed by three generations of Fred's family, the majority of the vines were planted in 1912. The aromas are bold blueberry and black cherry, showing smooth spicy black raspberry flavors. Excellent structure. Drink: 2006-2012.

2004 Neyers - Zinfandel Pato Vineyard, Contra Costa County; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
The sandy soils of the Pato Vineyard have sustained these Zinfandel vines for 110 years, making them among some of the oldest extant. Bruce Neyers and his winemaker, Ehren Jordan (Turley and Failla), do wonderful things with this fruit every year. Yields are just over a ton per acre, and the vines put most of their effort tapping deep into the sandpit soils searching for water.

This is pure classic Zinfandel character with polished fruit throughout, black cherry, velvet-like red raspberry/strawberry, tarry essences of cassis and blackberry are persistent on the palate. Strongly focused throughout. A beautiful wine. Drink: 2006-2012.

2004 Bella - Zinfandel Belle Canyon, Dry Creek Valley; Vinfolio rating: 97 points
Long time readers know that the Bella Zinfandels from Scott and Lynn Adams have always been excellent. With their debut 1999 vintage, I was fortunate to be the first in Northern California to notice these wines. The Lily Hill and Big River Ranch designated Zinfandel received perfect scores from me, and Bella was named my WINERY OF THE YEAR for 2001. The first of what should be a strong lineup from 2004, the Belle Canyon has just been released. This wine is soldout from the winery. Due to my strong relationship with Scott Adams, we have some to offer for Vinfolio members.

A nose simply oozing with cranberry and blackberry swirled into butter. The flavors are full of spice, rich and lively, herbs, luxurious length and depth. Blue and red fruits on finish. Drink: 2006-2012.

2002 Paradigm - Zinfandel Oakville Estate; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
Owners Ren and Marilyn Harris have Heidi Barrett making their wines, and the concentration here is Bordeaux varietals; Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. However, they make a small amount of highly allocated Zinfandel that is made available to long time supporters of the winery. We are fortunate to be in this group.

Paradigm wines are atypical of the majority produced in the valley and are often misunderstood. They simply take longer to develop than just about anything else. The aromas are smooth and creamy with hints of bright raspberry and spice. The palate is focused with good acid structure. It finishes with some mouth-filling juiciness. Drink: 2008-2013.

CARLISLE WINERY

I have known Mike Officer, the owner and winemaker of Carlisle, since his first release, the 1998. Our relationship has developed out of a strong respect for each other, and it is rare that I even taste these wines. Mike basically calls and tells me what is available and I just tell him to send it. I can't think of any other winery in which I put this much faith to bring continual excellence through our front door. The wines, Zinfandel, Syrah and Petite Sirah, are perennial favorites of Robert Parker and The Wine Advocate, consistently scoring 90 points or higher. Not surprisingly, the 2004 vintage received scores between 90-92 and 94-96 from this source. A small quantity of these wines are available to Vinfolio members.

2004 Carlisle - Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley; Vinfolio rating: NR
About 350 cases of this Zinfandel-Petite Sirah blend are produced, comprised of four distinctive sources including the venerable old block Zinfandel planted in the 1880s at Teldeschi and 50+ year-old vines from Mounts Ranch. These wines need no further description. OK, they were rated by Parker (90-92 points). The allocation is commensurate with production and they are consistently excellent.

2004 Carlisle - Zinfandel Sonoma County; Vinfolio rating: NR
A mere 208 cases of this Zinfandel-based wine, blended with some Russian River Syrah, were produced. The majority of the Zinfandel from the Fava Vineyard in Russian River was established between 1907 and 1922. The winery is soldout, which is no surprise. Again expect a Zinfandel experience with few rivals. The heady alcohol of 15.8% puts it in the extreme hedonistic experience territory. Highly allocated.

2004 Gamba - Zinfandel Moratto Vineyard, Russian River Valley; Vinfolio rating: NR
Agostino Gus Gamba is a sixth generation winemaker and steward of his family's 106 year-old estate vineyard in Russian River. My experience with these dry-farmed wines in the past led me to order this when it was offered. Yields typically are a half ton per acre, leading to extraordinary concentration.

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