THE WILDER SIDE OF CALIFORNIA
Doug Wilder, Issue 63

In a pop quiz of what red wine is most intimately associated with a particular state of origin, you would probably get lots of votes for Cabernet Sauvignon, as you would Zinfandel from California. In Washington, probably most votes are for Merlot, but surely Cabernet Sauvignon will be mentioned as well.

However, in Oregon there is the perfect climate for cultivating one red varietal better than any other. That grape is Pinot Noir, and it has single-handedly put Oregon viticulture on the world stage. The top growing regions are contained within the Willamette Valley and at last count there were nearly 200 of them.

This week’s issue of The Wilder Side of California will meander north 600 miles to explore some of the top producers. It’s true that I normally find myself in the relatively comfortable situation of talking about wines produced within a one- or two-hour drive of my St. Helena office. Oregon, however, makes me stretch out of my skin a bit and realize I need a guide of sorts. Recently at the Pinot Days festival in San Francisco I bumped into a wine broker, Tom Elliott, who I first met in the early 1990s. His company specializes in the wines of the Northwest. We have been out of touch for nearly ten years, yet over the last few weeks we have shut ourselves into a conference room (more than once) with countless glasses, and he has patiently taken me through an eye-opening introduction to the wines of Oregon.

The conclusion is that there are some exceptional examples of Pinot Noir available that I never knew existed. Generally the best are small production, vineyard designate or Estate and are competitively priced with wines of similar quality from California. It is my pleasure to share them with you.

2003 Chehalem - Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Reserve; Vinfolio rating: 94 points
Chehalem, owned by Harry Peterson-Nedry, and made with Cheryl Francis, has been growing grapes since 1980 and created their own Estate bottled label beginning in 1990. It is one of the most established of the Oregon producers.

The nose is packed with dense mineral, sea salt and wild blackberry aromas. The flavors are lush olalliberry, cassis, and mineral. Elegantly sublime. Drink: 2006-2015.

2004 Elk Cove - Pinot Noir La Boheme, Willamette Valley; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
In 1974, Joe and Pat Campbell planted one of the first vineyards to the classic European closely spaced pattern in Oregon. Their foresight helped establish quality standards for the state’s viticulture. Vineyard production is miniscule, typically less than 2 tons per acre.

The 24-acre property now called La Boheme was acquired by the Campbell family in 1976. Some of their best wines come from this source. Gobs of smoky black fruit emanate from the nose showing very clear Pommard clone character. It is rich and forward on the palate with delicate elegance on the finish showing hints of clove. Drink: 2006-2012.

2004 Elk Cove - Pinot Noir Mount Richmond, Willamette Valley; Vinfolio rating: 91 points
Shows a very full ripe nose of cherry, salty blackberry and smoke. A huge wine on the palate loaded with extracted black and red fruits, hints of smoke, crème brulee, and lead pencil. A bold wine. Drink: 2006-2010.

2003 Rex Hill - Pinot Noir Maresh Vineyard, Oregon; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
A relative newcomer, Rex Hill was started by Paul Hart and Jan Jacobsen in 1983 and now encompasses over 225 acres in the hotbed of Willamette Valley -- the north. As of 2004, Ryan Harms is winemaker following stints at Bergstrom and Torii Mor.

Maresh Vineyards, established in 1970 was one of only five Oregon vineyards at the time. The site, planted to blocks of Pommard, Wadenswil, and Dijon 115, contributes fruit to every Reserve wine produced by Rex Hill and appears in vineyard designated bottling in extraordinary vintages. The nose is ripe with macerated plum and cherry, spicy clove aromas. Smoothly textured black cherry and spice on the palate, elegantly sublime on the finish. Drink: 2006-2015.

2003 Patton Valley - Pinot Noir Willamette Valley; Vinfolio rating: 91 points
The Pinot Noir bug bit owners Dave Chen and Monte Pitt in the mid-1980s while attending business school together in the Midwest. The pursuit of their passion led them to purchase property in Oregon, and in 1995 Patton Valley Vineyard was founded, encompassing 72 acres with 23 now planted. Their goal is to produce wines made from only the best fruit. They are well on their way to achieving this.

The harvest yield for this vintage was a tiny 1.35 tons. That translates into excellent extraction throughout the wine. Aromas of smooth blueberry, black raspberry with hints of toasty cherry. The palate is creamy in texture with some rich robustness to the well defined tannin structure. Drink: 2006-2012.

2004 Lange - Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Estate, Willamette Valley; Vinfolio rating: 91 points
Founded in 1987 by Don and Wendy Lange, Lange Winery is sited in the Red Hills of Dundee. This is premier territory for the Oregon wine industry and they have built a great reputation. Plans are underway to develop additional property adjacent to theirs that will add some much needed capacity to meet demand for their Pinot Noir.

The Dundee Hills bottling from Lange is the finest 10 barrels produced from the Estate, planted in 1988. The nose shows sweet crushed blackberry. Excellent flavor concentration, showing saturated mineral, anise, blackberry and red cherry with smooth elegance. Drink: 2007-2017.

2004 Rich, Andrew - Pinot Noir Willamette Valley; Vinfolio rating: 91 points
Andrew Rich did what a surprising number of Californians did over the last twenty years -- move to Oregon. Few have entered the state with his vision or background, though, having already spent six years at Bonny Doon Winery under Randall Grahm. His intent was to produce wines in Oregon from Rhone varietals, but there were none growing there at the time. Undaunted, Andrew pitched into creating Pinot Noir, which by now was in good supply from excellent sources. Syrah eventually became part of his repertoire in 1999, but he developed a continuing reputation for solid Pinot Noir.

Like many Oregon Pinot, I find a fragrant nose of smoky herbs and cherry with bright blueberry. Elegant and supple on the palate with acidity that focuses the cherry flavors. Drink: 2006-2012.

2004 Lemelson Pinot Noir Stermer Vineyard, Willamette Valley; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
Eric Lemelson arrived in Oregon from the East Coast to attend (environmental) law school in Portland. He immediately fell in love with the area and during a year off from courses began to put down roots -- literally. He bought a small farm and planted fruit orchards. A chance meeting with the legendary Oregon winemaker, Dick Ponzi, led to him plant Pinot Noir in 1995 because Dick said he would buy the grapes. A later experience tasting a recommended bottle of Beaux Freres Pinot Noir in a Portland restaurant convinced him Pinot Noir could reflect exceptional quality in Oregon if there was a commitment to excellence. Eric’s interest in the environment helped form a natural, organic philosophy at Lemelson. The winery is all gravity flow, native yeast fermentations, and non-interventional techniques are in place.

This is my first exposure to Lemelson, and I am impressed by the quality. The nose shows abundant creamy, smooth, licorice and pretty spiced black cherry fruit. The palate shows exuberant vitality with flavors of cranberry and pomegranate, finishing with crisp acidity. Drink: 2007-2013.

2004 Lemelson - Pinot Noir Jerome Reserve, Willamette Valley; Vinfolio rating: 90 points
Jerome is named for Eric Lemelson’s son and historically has been the biggest of the Lemelson lineup.

Dense jammy aromas that are smooth and creamy showing blackberry, and gooey briar qualities. On the palate the fruit has distinct creme de cassis sweetness. A pure expression of a delicious small production wine. Drink: 2006-2010.

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