THE WILDER SIDE OF CALIFORNIA
Doug Wilder, Issue 61

The latest tasting week brought some excellent wines to my attention. Whites from Hartwell, Six Sigma and Vare are all debuts tasted for the first time. I have combed the Vinfolio archives for some of your favorite reds still in stock or on reorder.

2005 Hartwell - Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley; Vinfolio rating: 98 points
Debut release: When I heard that Andy Erickson had taken over winemaking at Hartwell last year my mind began to race thinking what he would come out with in a few years time from this jewel box of a vineyard in Stags Leap. You may recall that Andy had previously been winemaker at Staglin beginning in 2001, where I first noticed his talents, and then began his own label, Favia (which has received two VF 94s and one VF 98 for their three releases) with his viticulturist wife, Annie, in 2003. In the last year he has been named winemaker at Arietta and Screaming Eagle. Last week, I was excited to be presented with a Sauvignon Blanc he produced from Hartwell in 2005. When I tasted it I immediately knew there was a rival to the SCHOLIUM PROJECT La Severita di Bruto Sauvignon Blanc (VF 98). They are different as night and day in style, yet deserve the same sort of attention. Not to be missed!

The first thing to notice is the bright golden hue to the color that immediately registers fullness. Make no mistake this is an extraordinarily big wine showing dense mineral and rich grapefruit aromas that are ripe and penetrating. On the palate there is tremendous concentration to the flavors of anise, mineral, sea salt and bright lemon. Excellent acidity with a finish lasting over a minute. Drink: 2006-2010.

2005 Six Sigma - Sauvignon Blanc Rooster Vineyards, Lake County; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
Debut release: Six Sigma is made by Denis Malbec and 2005 is their first release. Malbec has come to the states after being with Ch. Latour in Bordeaux and is the winemaker at another project we will soon be talking about. This will be an interesting project to watch as there will be more wines coming out over the next year. Here is an interesting tidbit I have heard about Denis and observed at another of his winery projects: his sorting tables are the longest around. He is especially scrupulous in this step of winemaking ensuring only perfect, separate berries enter the press. One of those small details you might not think about.

Vibrant golden color loaded with citrus, guava, peach and papaya aromas. Crisp acidity on the palate showing mouth-watering melon, lemon and gooseberry flavors, with a smooth finish. Drink: 2006-2008.

2004 Selene - Sauvignon Blanc Hyde Vineyard, Los Carneros; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
I have recently reordered Mia Klein's Selene Sauvignon Blanc, for the last two years it has been one of our top-selling wines. These are consistently great wines from one of the top winemakers in the valley.

The nose holds a rich lemon perfume with concentrated mineral / wet slate aromas. On the palate the flavors are decidedly more forward than the 2004. The flavors of apple and vibrant stone fruits are polished and smooth throughout the finish. Drink: 2006-2008.

2003 Elyse - L'Ingenue, California; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
Debut release: A very popular wine when I introduced it earlier in the year, I recently discovered we had a bit more in stock. Ray Coursen has a prolific track record here of producing a lineup of 90+ point wines. L'Ingenue is a wonderland of exotica illustrating a new wrinkle in Coursen's milieu. The winery is sold out and the 2004 will be released in the next month.

54% Roussanne, 27% Marsanne, 17% Viognier, 3% Grenache Blanc. Overall the wine is rich and viscous with aromas of the faintest Meyer lemon and carnauba wax. The palate is full-bodied with butter cream, mango and peach that follow through to the finish showing hints of macadamia and fragrant oils. Drink: 2005-2008.

2003 Elyse - Le Corbeau Hudson Vineyard, Los Carneros; Vinfolio rating: 94 points
Debut release: Adding to the repertoire of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Elyse produced their first Rhone red blend in 2003 and it turned out to be excellent. Vinfolio has another delivery on the way.

A blend of 90% Grenache and 10% Syrah. Le Corbeau (The Raven) reminds me of the great Grenache made by Bruce Neyers from this same fruit source. The aromas are of lead pencil, black and blue berry nectar, crème de cassis, powdered cocoa, and smoke. Beautiful structure with flavors of smooth and polished sweet cassis, nectarine, blackberry, plum, and toast. Drink: 2005-2012.

2004 Vare - Bianco, Napa Valley, 500ml; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
Debut release: Don't feel slighted that you are only hearing about this wine now. Previously the only place to find it was on French Laundry's wine list. Abe Schoener of SCHOLIUM PROJECT and Maldonado makes this wine for George Vare and it is bottled in 500mL format for Paul Roberts, French Laundry's Wine Director. What you get is an utterly intriguing experience blending grapes not ordinarily associated with viticulture in America. Vare fell in love with the wines of the Fruili region in Italy and decided he wanted to duplicate some of the varietals here. The estate grown varietals are Tocai Fruliano, Pinot Grigio and Ribolla Gialla blended with a small amount of Sauvignon Blanc. Ribolla Gialla has been grown in Friuli since the 13th Century, and Vare's planting are the only vines in America. Because of the cooler climate in Italy, these grapes never attain the ripeness they do in Napa Valley, hence a very different style of wine; barrel fermented, rich on the palate and capable of some aging.

Honey-golden in color. Aromas of shortbread, honey-baked stone fruit and silky vanilla scents in the nose. The palate is richly textured with smooth nutty notes and a long mouth-coating finish. Drink: 2006-2013.

2002 Showket - Sangiovese, Oakville; Vinfolio rating: 94 points
This may seem like an odd interlude to slip in a Sangiovese among Petite Sirah and Sauvignon Blanc, but what an example it is!. The only Italian varietal to make last year's Top 25 list, Showket is made by Heidi Barrett. This was a very popular wine and we have a couple cases left making it a good opportunity to put some away.

The 2002 exceeds even my high expectations: the nose shows immense richness redolent of black cherry, crunchy cranberries, mouth watering cassis, and soft fragrant plum. There is a backbone of gooey, briary and earth scents. The flavors of black cherry, dark plum and cassis show superb concentration with a silky mouth-feel and a luscious finish. Drink: 2006-2010.

2004 Scholium Project - BABYLON Tenbrink Vineyards, California; Vinfolio rating: 94 points
Abe Schoener has produced one of the most cerebral wines I have yet to experience: Babylon.

It isn't the first impression but the evolution that the wine undergoes as time passes that leads the avid taster to continually add more complex impressions to their experience. This is a great example why I only taste formally in my office because I can spend several hours watching a flower such as this unfold. I have had it several times since release and regularly find new things to love. Vinfolio is proud to be the first to offer recommendations on SCHOLIUM PROJECT beginning last year. A cult classic producer.

Motor oil black, intense deep briary raspberry nose with licorice, tar and roasted lemon peels, viscous and weighty on the front of the tongue with vibrant purity, substantial tannins and grip. The wine is massive in everyway -- no subtlety here. It needs at least 4 or 5 years to settle down. Absolutely gobs of stuff here -- be patient! Drink: 2009-2020.

2003 Scholium Project - BABYLON Tenbrink Vineyards, California, 3.0L; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
Debut release: Vinfolio capitalized on the premiere release of this bold new venture in July of last year and were one of the few outlets in the world for the massive, hand dipped, small production double magnums of these seminal wines. Only a handful of these monsters were made, and it takes a "special" kind of connoisseur to appreciate them. Currently we have a small number of them remaining. They have been slumbering in our 55 degree warehouse for nearly 12 months and are the last link to the "giants of the past" from Schoener.

Made from 100% Petite Sirah in Solano County, Babylon is all about ripe lushness. Meaty and smooth with lead pencil, blueberry, soft caramel and vanilla. Drink: 2007-2020.

2003 Enkidu - Petite Sirah, Napa Valley; Vinfolio rating: 90 points
Debut release: Last week introduced Philip Staehle to Vinfolio readers with his new release of Syrah. He had other wines to show me when we sat down together (there is another I can't even discuss now). What I found was remarkably clean wines with excellent varietal character.

A nose of fragrant nectarine and supple fruit blossom scents. It is big and intensely tannic on the palate needing time to settle down. Drink: 2007-2010.

2003 Carver Sutro - Petite Sirah Palisades Vineyard, Napa Valley; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
Palisades Vineyard is one of the best sites in the state for growing old-vine Petite Sirah. The Barberis family first developed the vineyard in 1902 and still farmed it when present owners Denis Sutro and Anne Carver acquired it in 1992. The wine is a deep clear purple in color with the unmistakable nose of earthy black cherry and smooth, spicy black fruits. It has great structure and will age well. There is substantial tannin masking the dense underlying fruit. Be patient as this wine will continue to evolve. Drink: 2009-2015.

2004 Elyse - Petite Sirah, Rutherford; Vinfolio rating: 95 points
First revealed to Vinfolio readers in early March, the Elyse Petite Sirah was recently revisited and is showing beautifully. Coursen is a remarkable talent.

The nose is beautifully balanced, showing creamy nuances with firm, spicy red fruit overtones. The palate is decadently rich, soft, and velvety, with a lovely mouth-feel. Caramel, blue plum, and berry with a bit of smoked meat on the finish, along with the obvious tannin grip will keep this wine aging beautifully for years to come. Drink: 2008-2017.

Vinfolio offers an entirely new way to develop and manage your wine. Our online cellar management software is integrated with a full suite of collector services for buying, selling, inventorying, and storing wine. A Vinfolio membership includes

• Exceptional wine offers
• Buying and selling services
• VinCellar^TM online cellar management software
• Free data entry into VinCellar
• Access to Tanzer, Burghound & Galloni scores and reviews
• Automated cellar valuation

To learn more about Vinfolio, please visit www.vinfolio.com. We invite you to sign up for a 60-day complimentary membership.

Access prior issues of The Wilder Side of California
Visit the Wilder Side for a list of all previous issues. And if you know anyone who would like to begin receiving this weekly wine letter, it's as simple as submitting an email address on the same page.

Corporate Office
1890 Bryant Street, Suite 208
San Francisco, CA 94110
Tel 800 969 1961
Tel 415 946 1300
Fax 415 946 1359
Email wineoffers@vinfolio.com

Napa Valley Office
1030 Main Street, Suite 209
St. Helena, CA 94574
Tel 800 969 4557
Tel 707 967 8514
Fax 707 963 1608
Email wineoffers@vinfolio.com

(c) 2006 Vinfolio. Reproduction of material contained herein without written permission is prohibited by law. The news media, wine distributors, and retailers may use brief portions of this material provided it is not distorted and Vinfolio is given credit for the material utilized.