THE WILDER SIDE OF CALIFORNIA
Doug Wilder, Issue 60

It was only a matter of time until a prodigious Rhone varietal offer came out in The Wilder Side of California. The most widely planted Rhone varietal in America is Syrah. Much like Cabernet Sauvignon, it is the backbone on which other varietals are often hung. Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsault, and Counois -- even the Rhone whites: Grenache Gris, Roussanne, Marsanne, and Viognier -- may find their way into a lusciously poetic blend. I attended the annual Hospice de Rhone festival held in Paso Robles in mid-May. If you are serious about Rhone varietals, this was the place to be. I discovered about 30 new producers who were making wines I was unfamiliar with, and I have been slowly putting together formal tastings. These are some of the first to be put into an offer.

2004 29 Songs - Syrah, Napa Valley; Vinfolio rating: 94 points
Winemaker Kelly Wheat has just released his premier vintage of 29 Songs, which is the number of songs recorded by blues guitarist, Robert Johnson. Kelly was winemaker at Luna before embarking on this solo project where his goal is to create a wine which imparts structure and balance to a grape that is typically so exuberant.

Very dark purple in the glass with a nose of freshly crushed raspberries, Provencal herbs, creme brulee, violet, roasted meats, sea salt. Smooth, sweet black fruits with a tapenade of chocolate, figs and olives, a slate-like dryness to the finish with smooth, lavender, and smoke hints. Drink: 2006-2015.

2004 Kosuge, B - Syrah Hudson Vineyard, Los Carneros; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
Byron Kosuge brings nearly 20 years of experience in winemaking to bear on the debut of his own label following 14 years at Saintsbury. He is also responsible for the amazing Miura wines recently reviewed here. Hudson is one of the top vineyards in California. Don't miss this new release.

Dark mantle of color leads into an enticing nose showing java, roasted meats and extracted blossoms, spicy black fruits throughout. Drink: 2006-2014.

2004 Enkidu - Syrah Odyssey Vineyard, Russian River Valley; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
Philip Staehle embarked on his new venture, Enkidu, after learning from Dick Graff and Pam Starr while at Carmenet in Sonoma. In addition to Syrah, he produces Pinot Noir and Petite Sirah. Odyssey is in the cool climes west of Santa Rosa. An exciting new producer.

Dark purple in color, with a pretty nose of black fruits, cherry, cassis, smoky blackberry and toasted vanilla. The palate is creamy with dark chocolate, hints of currant and spice. Drink: 2006-2015.

2004 Jus Soli - Syrah, Sonoma Valley; Vinfolio rating: 91 points
Tom Garrett is at it again with a new project in Sonoma as winemaker for a group comprised of old friends. Jus Soli is translated from Latin meaning "Law of the Soil" which in this case refers to the key contribution of terroir to the resulting wine. Garrett, who had previously worked at Turley, produces the Detert wines for his family while assisting Heidi Barrett at Revana (both made Vinfolio's "Top 25 of 2005"; coincidence?), and he is just taking on the production responsibilities at Bugay.

Dark purple in color with a nose of fragrant blossoms and smoky powdered blueberry along with hints of chocolate and mint. The palate shows decent length with some hints of java and vanilla pods/stems. Drink: 2006-2013.

2004 Kenneth-Crawford - Syrah Evans Ranch, Santa Rita Hills; Vinfolio rating: 94 points
Partners Mark Horvath and Kenneth Gummere are ecstatic about their debut wine at Vinfolio. It is a real eye-opener from this relatively new producer, now in their 4th vintage. Santa Rita Hills continues to produce some of the most excellent grapes in Santa Barbara County.

Saturated dark purple in color with a beautifully extracted nose of pepper, earth and bold red fruits. Densely packed flavors on the palate showing Provencal herb, black cherry and tar. Drink: 2006-2013.

2005 Pelerin - Les Tournesols, Monterey; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
Chris Wiedemann returns with an excellent Rhone varietal to complement the well received Rosella's Pinot Noir from this year.

A blend of 58% Roussanne, 27% Chardonnay and 15% Viognier, it is a much drier style than many of the voluptuous wines of this type produced in California. Wiedemann's model is essentially white Hermitage. Bright acidity with subtle aromatic nuances of spice and lemon/waxy mineral. Smooth and full flavors showing smoke-laced mineral and lemon. Drink: 2006-2009.

2004 Tallulah - Syrah Sonoma Coast; Vinfolio rating: 90 points
Ben Davis is another "find" from Hospice de Rhone, and there are two wines here from my follow-up formal tasting with him. The first is the Sonoma Coast picked from a trio of separately picked and fermented clones, aged in mostly used oak to soften it.

Dark ruby/purple in color with a smooth and creamy nose showing black cherry, mint and smoke. The palate shows off smooth black fruits, pepper and roasted meat. Beautifully integrated. Drink: 2006-2012.

2004 Tallulah - Syrah Bald Mountain Ranch, Mount Veeder; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
Stunningly delicious wine that is very dark purple in color with bold, rich blackberry, butter cream and violet aromas. The palate shows spicy pepper, smooth black fruits; plum, blackberry and raspberry. Drink: 2006-2013.

2004 Zerba - Syrah, Walla Walla Valley; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
Just tasted it this week and was very pleased with my experience. It is made by Charlie Hoppes, a winemaker who is quickly coming up on my radar (2003 Fidelitas Cabernet Sauvignon Champoux Vineyard, VF96).

Dark purple in color with pretty aromas of blue fruit and vanilla bean. The palate shows off smoky bacon fat. Very smooth and toasty on finish. Drink: 2006-2012.

2005 Saisons des Vins - L'Hiver, Mendocino County; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
Wells Guthrie makes sensational wines -- that is a given. However, his production is very limited and allocated. Several years back he introduced his Saisons des Vins, essentially wines released throughout the year made in his extraordinary style, but in larger volume. His Syrah is an excellent value for the price and should be one of those staple wines to always have on hand.

A nose showing big fruit; tarry black cherry and berry. The palate shows smooth brambly blueberry, cassis, violet and dark cherry. Drink: 2006-2009.

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