THE WILDER SIDE OF CALIFORNIA
Doug Wilder, Issue 59

Vinfolio's ability to act quickly on small-production or allocated wines is one benefit of membership that distinguishes us from a catalog or traditional retailer. I write most of my offers within two weeks of tasting the wines. Often, the lag is substantially less. I have already had several "stop the press" moments where an important wine has been added to an offer based on a tasting only minutes before the deadline.

Our customers love us because we provide information about the availability of the most exceptional wines in time to make an informed decision. Over the last week, I have completed my final tasting of 2004 Dierberg Estate Pinot Noir, and I have sourced small quantities of wines that were successful in previous issues. Some came in as a last chance to order. Looking at the wines discussed below, it is easy to determine that they represent some of the best examples of Pinot Noir reviewed over the last 9 months.

The return of Dierberg Estate Pinot Noir
The hottest selling Pinot Noir last year for Vinfolio was the 2003 Dierberg Estate, earning the highest rating of any Pinot Noir I tasted. The demand was like nothing we had ever seen. I am happy to report that the just-released 2004 vintage is now available through Vinfolio. I have tasted this wine twice over the past three months and watched it develop in bottle. NOTE: Our initial allocation of this wine is only about 2/3 of last year's, which barely met our needs. Those who tasted and loved the 2003 will find the 2004 a remarkable follow-up. Don't wait too long on this one. Once the 2003 got some traction, it sold out fast.

Dierberg is joined by five other highly rated Pinot Noir, two of which appeared on Vinfolio's "Top 25 of 2005" last December.

2004 Dierberg - Pinot Noir Estate Grown; Vinfolio rating: 96 points
Darkly opaque in color. Aromas of black cherry, blackberry, cocoa, clove and mint, showing additional polished cranberry and creamy pie spice nuances after the wine is in the glass for 20 minutes. Deep and intense on the palate with black cherry, cocoa dust, blueberry, licorice and cola. Exquisite purity and length with smooth acidity, showing a bit of sassafras and orange zest on the finish. Drink: 2006-2009.

A pair from Vinfolio's "Top 25 of 2005"
We sold many cases of the next two wines in the autumn of last year, and their quality earned them places in The Wilder Side of California's best of the year. They eventually sold out, and I moved on to discovering other excellent wines. In conversations with the winery and one of my most trusted brokers, I recently discovered more was available. It's your lucky day!

2003 Auteur - Pinot Noir Momtasi Vineyard; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
You may remember this Auteur from last year's Top 25 list; the only Oregon wine to crack the otherwise all-California lineup. A mere three barrels were produced, and the source will no longer be available through Auteur owner Ken Juhasz. There are just 5 cases of this beautiful wine remaining which have been made available through a special arrangement. Juhasz is certainly a winemaker to watch.

The Momtasi Vineyard is planted primarily to Dijon 115, resulting in a wine that is seductively smooth and richly sweet on the nose. Blueberry, plum extract, spicy chocolate, and sandalwood on the palate. Very approachable, with a distinctive, black raspberry finish. Drink: 2006-2012.

2003 Derbes - Pinot Noir Russian River Valley; Vinfolio rating: 95 points
Cecile Derbes released her first Pinot Noir from Russian River to rave reviews last fall. We sold out of everything we had, and I just discussed an additional allocation from the winery. She gave her approval so I am I excited to re-offer another top wine of 2005. To recap, Cecile started her own brand after leaving her post as Director of Production at Opus One in 2000. Her concentration on burgundian varietals (Pinot Noir and Chardonnay) is not surprising, as the bulk of her background is in Champagne and also at Schug (a Pinot specialist in Carneros).

The nose bursts with gorgeous aromatics of orange-scented spice box, dense cherry and tar. The mouthfeel is seamlessly smooth with a fat richness on the mid-palate, continuing with mineral and smoky cherry. This is beautifully balanced wine with a long finish. Drink: 2006-2012.

Three of the hottest Pinot Noir from last quarter
The second quarter witnessed some delicious Pinot Noir arriving at Vinfolio. In my opinion, these are three which deserve a reminder, as they are from very significant and noteworthy sources and producers.

2004 Roessler - Pinot Noir Sanford & Benedict; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
Wells Guthrie, the winemaker and owner of Copain, was responsible for the 2004 vintage of Roessler wines. Several have been featured here (Savoy and Blue Jay Pinot Noir, along with Alder Springs and Dutton Chardonnay). The Sanford & Benedict Vineyard likely has more to do with the success of Pinot Noir in Santa Barbara County than anything else. Richard Sanford developed this vineyard as a pioneer in 1971, before growing grapes was even considered there. Every time I try a wine from this source, I find it incredibly enjoyable. It hasn't been long since I first featured this wine, but I thought it was the appropriate time to remind readers of it again, given the flavor of this offering.

One of the hallmarks of the vineyard is a rich and expressive nose. The aromas are incredibly intense with smoky anise, black cherry and spice. On the palate flavors of cherry, pomegranate and orange peel prevail, showing excellent acidity. Drink: 2007-2015.

2003 Swan, Joseph - Pinot Noir Saralee's Vineyard; Vinfolio rating: 97 points
There are certain wines which I just know are going to be white-hot sizzling when I taste them. The Saralee's is certainly one of these. Swan, made by Rod Berglund, has a legendary reputation for this varietal, and it represents one of the highest quality-price ratios we have seen. This one took off like a bottle rocket, and I am ordering for our THIRD significant drop on what I refer to as the "little masterpiece." At some point I won't be able to lay my hands on any more. For now, it remains an exciting wine to stock-up on by the case. Believe me, it won't last forever. Get it while the gettin's good!

Even though the wine is deceptively pale in color, it serves up a multitude of aromas; cherry, cola, sassafras and fragrant flowers. Excellent structure with rich, creamy mid-palate supported by beautiful acidity. Drink: 2006-2015.

2004 Hirsch - Pinot Noir Estate; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
Hirsch Pinot Noir is one of the toughest wines for any retailer to get their hands on. It is just so scarce that it doesn't go very far; plus the vineyard and owners have a stellar reputation for excellence. I count myself among the fortunate few who were able to source a small additional quantity for our spring offering. David Hirsch has created 22 acres of vineyards in the cool Sonoma Coast appellation which Wine Spectator dubbed likely to be America's first grand cru. It also just received 92-point ratings from Tanzer's International Wine Cellar and Burghound.

The nose shows an extracted boldness with lapsang and cherry aromas, backed up by hints of flinty mineral. The flavors merge beautifully with the nose, showing focused smoky cherry, blue plum, and orange peel. Drink: 2007-2015.

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