THE WILDER SIDE OF CALIFORNIA
Doug Wilder, Issue 58

Any time I sit down to taste Chardonnay, I unconsciously calibrate it against another wine that has become a sort of benchmark for me. The wine I am talking about is none other than Maldonado, now in its third vintage. Since the premiere release of the 2002 two years ago, comparisons with the likes of Kistler, Peter Michael, and Marcassin have become so common that it's only a matter of time before this wine is on every serious Chardonnay fan's short list, and even on the lists of adventurous lovers of white Burgundy. I have seen one tasting note stating it reminded of 1999 Leflaive Montrachet. Both previous vintages have appeared on Vinfolio's Top-rated list for the last two years, and a small amount of each is available from the Vinfolio inventory. You can make your own conclusions about the 2004. For the first time, a very limited number of 3.0L bottles are available on a first-come, first-served basis.

You already know the story of the winemaker, Abe Schoener, the genius owner behind SCHOLIUM PROJECT. Both wines benefit from being under his constant care in the volcanic caves of White Rock Winery. As a singular entity, no wine has attained the consistency of not only maintaining exceptional quality but doing it at a price that makes it one of the best values on the market. The price has increased a bit, but I have told Abe since the beginning that this should be a sixty-dollar bottle.

Additionally, the remainder of our Kesner and DuMOL allocations is still available following the initial offering. We are exceptionally proud to offer these stellar examples of Chardonnay.

The wines of Maldonado
The first very experimental SCHOLIUM PROJECT wines were made from the Maldonado Vineyard, and the lessons learned there led to Schoener becoming the Maldonado winemaker in 2002. The vineyard, situated in Jamison Canyon, is farmed by Hugo Maldonado and is capable of producing some of the most riveting fruit in Napa Valley, if not all of California, when it comes to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Keep an eye out for additional releases in the coming months. These wines get the whole Schoener treatment; minimal intervention, native yeast fermentation, and French oak (about 25% new). The first racking of the wines occurs at final blending, nearly two years after they go into barrel for fermentation. Abe calls this process "micro-oxygenation" which helps the wine age longer. These wines hold up well as the years go by, and every year Abe knows the abilities of the vineyard a little better. Hold your own vertical tasting of three wines which are among the best ever tasted here.

2004 Maldonado - Chardonnay Los Olivos Vineyard, Napa Valley; Vinfolio rating: 98 points
The highest scoring Maldonado to date continues a prodigious track record for this producer. With Schoener in the cellar, can perfection be far away? A very limited number of 3.0L bottles are available.

A bright golden color. Very rich, honey-kissed lemon, pain grille, grapefruit skin, pure citrus and graphite aromas. On the palate, there is that unmistakable purity of fruit with its stellar, rich, macadamia nuttiness followed by concentrated oily, mineral and preserved lemon. The finish is rich with excellent acidity and lasts for several minutes. Drink: 2006-2012.

2003 Maldonado - Chardonnay Los Olivos Vineyard, Napa Valley; Vinfolio rating: 96 points
The second vintage of Maldonado, again made by Abe Schoener from Lupe Maldonado's south Napa fruit. 100% malolactic, 100% barrel fermented. The nose is toasty, buttered hazelnuts with soft lemon, mineral and wet stone scents. The mouth entry is soft and richly silky with lush, focused flavors of lemon flesh, apple and citrus blossom, with a drizzle of anise and vanilla bean on the finish. Drink: 2006-2010.

2002 Maldonado - Chardonnay Los Olivos Vineyard, Napa Valley; Vinfolio rating: 97 points
The premiere release that brought the name of Abe Schoener to the table.

I am impressed by the dense ripeness showing in the nose. It is not something that is easy to describe except to say the senses light up immediately; lemon zest, smooth vanilla bean, a plump core of silky textured spice and mineral. The result is a wine generous in a lavish, forward way on the nose and the palate, but finishing with impeccable acidity and length. The wine is bottled unfiltered. 320 cases produced. Drink: 2006-2010.

The wines noted below were offered recently, and we still have some of our limited allocation available. Limit: six bottles per customer.

2004 Kesner - Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard; Vinfolio rating: 94 points
I reported on this wine a few weeks ago, and I am happy to see we still have a bit of it available. The production is extremely limited; you practically need a private introduction to get into the Kesner "club." I'm glad to raise my hand when members are counted. Another remarkably consistent producer, made at the same place as SCHOLIUM and Maldonado. Perhaps there's something in the air?

The nose is packed with delicious aromas of waxy lemon, shortbread and mineral. On the palate the flavors are exceptionally focused with clean expressive acids, mineral, dried lemon, nectarine flesh. The finish has excellent length. Drink: 2006-2012.

2004 DuMOL - Chardonnay Russian River Valley; Vinfolio rating: 95 points
After a one-year hiatus from carrying DuMOL, we recently came back with the superb wines from Andy Smith. The wine is also available in 1.5L format.

The nose is redolent of preserved Italian lemons with hints of pear, warm citrus and pineapple. On the palate the flavors are rich and ripe with plenty of expression on the finish. Juicy yet showing focused acidity. Drink: 2006-2012.

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