THE WILDER SIDE OF CALIFORNIA
Doug Wilder, Issue 57

Cabernet Sauvignon and Napa Valley are inseparable and essentially synonymous. For the last 40 years, all but a few of the top-flight examples of this varietal have come from within a region any part of which I can reach in less than 30 minutes. I can drive to the incredible Martin Estate in Rutherford and taste a delicious pair of 2002 Cabernets in the cellar of a 19th century stone winery, surrounded by 16th century suits of armor, and be back at my desk within the hour writing my tasting notes for you. Every once in a while, though, I am reminded of exquisite examples of other domestic growing regions which, based solely on their quality, simply cannot be ignored. For example, Auteur, Archery Summit and Domaine Drouhin produced some of the best Pinot Noir I tasted over the last year, and they are all from Oregon.

Another burgeoning region is Washington's Columbia Valley, which, according to some experts, rivals not only California but also any established wine growing region in the world. The Wine Advocate, published by Robert Parker, recently awarded 100 points to a wine from this region. That in itself is an accomplishment few producers ever achieve, yet this particular producer has done it for two years in a row. The winery is called Quilceda Creek, and it has clearly put the wine world on notice. Unfortunately the market price for this wine is now triple the release price. As always, it is best to obtain a wine before it receives the high scores in broadly published reviews.

Not unlike Napa Valley, Washington producers rely on a variety of vineyards to create a particular wine. I recently tasted an example of a Washington Cabernet sourced from the same vineyard that helped produce the Quilceda Creek, the 175-acre Champoux Vineyard, arguably the finest in the state. This winery is Fidelitas, and if you are not familiar with Washington wine, trust me, it is as good as anything produced elsewhere.

Along with these two wineries are another seven Napa Valley producers who have recently made estate or vineyard designated wines available through Vinfolio.

The wines of Martin Estate
You may recall last year when I first introduced Martin Estate. It was the first issue of The Wilder Side of California to display an image of a wine label. The Martin Estate story is one steeped in the history of the valley and beyond. The original winery, built in 1887, is still in use for production of all the estate wine and as a residence. Owner Greg Martin happens to be the world's top collector of antique arms and armor, and the winery displays this hobby/business in the most subtle ways. The candelabra on the tables are crafted from artistically twisted bayonets (originally presented to French infantry officers). These are complemented by incredible suits of armor, some of which were clearly made to intimidate opponents on the battlefield simply by the size of some of their "parts." If it wasn't for the wines, all of this would be just another lovely estate owned by equally lovely people. The newly available 2002 vintage from Martin Estate proves that their debut 2001 vintage was clearly not a fluke. After tasting in my office, I took the wines to A16 in San Francisco and paired them with mushroom pizzas. I was not surprised to find them also on the restaurant's wine list!

2002 Martin Estate - Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
A blend of Clone 4, 6 and 337, this wine is nearly a dead ringer for last year's.

Aromas of black cherry with a tiny bit of violet and herbs surrounded by lush smoothness. The flavors are long, ripe and generously proportioned, integrating the pepper component as a complexing nuance. Dark cherry, blackberry come in on the palate with hints of black coffee on the finish. Drink: 2006-2015.

2002 Martin Estate - Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Rutherford; Vinfolio rating: 94 points
A much more severe selection of fruit results in the glorious (and limited) Reserve from Martin Estate. The results speak for themselves.

Luxuriously smooth tobacco, dark cherry and cassis in the nose. On the palate the flavors are deeply extracted, coffee, smooth black fruits. The finish is notably complex and long. Drink: 2006-2015.

2003 Fidelitas - Cabernet Sauvignon Champoux Vineyard, Columbia Valley; Vinfolio rating: 96 points
A mere 100 cases of this stellar wine were produced, and Vinfolio happens to be tapped into a significant portion. Don't wait around for the scores from anybody else, as this one will break your heart if you miss it. The 100-point (Wine Advocate) 2003 Quilceda Creek from the same property is selling for 3 times the release price.

An intensely powerful perfume of pomegranate, cranberry, tarry and creamy blackberry along with salt tinted savory tapenade. The flavors are creamy and smooth showing excellent extraction with a vital core of acidity. Very pretty stuff--beautiful tannin structure. Ripe nectarine and macerated black currant on the finish. Drink: 2006-2014.

2001 Paradigm - Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Estate; Vinfolio rating: 91 points
Ren and Marilyn Harris have been a fixture in the valley for thirty years as wine growers; however, their ancestors arrived long ago. Marilyn's grandparents immigrated from Italy in 1890, and Ren's arrived in the Spanish territory before there was even a country, in 1769.

They have had just one winemaker, Heidi Peterson Barrett, since their first vintage in 1991, and the vineyards were developed by her father, Dick Peterson. The beauty of Paradigm wines lies in their subtlety. Unlike other producers in the valley, they come across as well developed yet elegant. A wine to stand by rather than place on a pedestal. Paradigm is planted on ground that Ren's great great grand-uncle, General Mariano Vallejo, granted to George Yount in 1835. The dirt in Oakville makes some of the most sought-after wines in the world. A recent tasting of Paradigm Cabernet brought the two latest vintages to my attention. Heidi makes another wine from the same appellation that always leads to compelling comparisons when tasted together.

Aromas of dark cherry, black berry and plums lead to smooth and elegantly balanced flavors on the palate with some good acidity. Pretty and delicate throughout. Drink: 2006-2016.

2002 Paradigm - Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Estate; Vinfolio rating: 91 points
This takes up where the 2001 leaves off, showing excellent fruit extraction, polished on the palate with ripe black and red fruit, chocolate and mint. Drink: 2006-2015.

2003 Showket - Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville; Vinfolio rating: 95 points
Showket was one of Vinfolio's "Top 25 wines of 2005" with the Cabernet scoring an exceptional 96 points. Again we have a Heidi Barrett-produced wine that is remarkably consistent.

Undeniably seductive--creamy, rich and intense with aromas of java, vanilla and violet. The palate leads with heady creme de cassis, dark extracted fruit and hints of minty forest floor. Elegant and extremely well balanced on the finish. The legacy continues. Drink: 2006-2015.

2002 Oakville Ranch - Robert's Blend; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
Every year there is a very exclusive tasting of the wines of Oakville. It is invitation only and includes the top names of Napa Valley: Screaming Eagle, Harlan, Bond, Paradigm, Mondavi, Far Niente, Detert, Nickel & Nickel, and Hoopes. This year the first wine I tasted was the Robert's Blend from Oakville Ranch, and it became the benchmark for everything else I tasted throughout the day. It was a formidable task for any wine to supplant the standard this small production wine established. Oakville Ranch has already brought you the 2002 Field Blend (Vinfolio 94 points) and 2004 Chardonnay (Vinfolio 95 points) which have been extraordinary. Under Ashley Heisey, the tradition continues.

Comprised of 78% Cabernet Franc and 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, it possesses beautiful aromas of java, cherry nougat, sea salt, dried Provencal herbs, lead pencil, chocolate and lavender. The flavors are smooth and creamy showing rich, supple black cherry, blackberry, and white and dark chocolate. Drink: 2006-2015.

2003 Parador - Proprietary Red, Napa Valley; Vinfolio rating: 90 points
One of the most reliable producers of small production, boutique wines I have experienced is Parador, produced by Steve Ventrello. The 1999 Reserva (Vinfolio 97 points) was one of the first wines I wrote about here in Issue #1 of The Wilder Side of California and is still available as one of the best kept secrets! Steve uses tiny vineyard sources of Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon to craft mere barrels of wine he will sometimes designate for a Reserva, or even a Gran Reserva program.

The wines are value driven and consistently great. Ventrello's use of Tempranillo is unique among producers I know. A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero clone). The wine comes across with dark, earthy qualities, as well as bright acidity at the same time. On the palate the flavors are polished with brambly black fruit and flinty on the finish. Drink: 2006-2011.

2002 York Creek - Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain District; Vinfolio rating: 94 points
For years Fritz Maytag, the owner of Anchor Brewing in San Francisco has produced a wonderful Meritage blend from his property on Spring Mountain. This is the first vintage to be bottled as a varietal Cabernet Sauvignon, even though the blend is the same as last year's Meritage with 80% Cabernet Sauvignon. I just tasted it this week and decided it needed to be in the offer of Cabernet Sauvignon. Spring Mountain is a great place to grow fruit with the likes of Keenan, Cain, Philip Togni, School House, Behrens & Hitchcock, Paloma, and Marston regularly making benchmark wines.

The nose is redolent of blackberry, cassis and licorice. On the palate the flavors are full bodied showing rich violet and herb, sweet black and blue fruits knitting together with a creamy anise note on the finish. Drink: 2007-2014.

Below are a couple of wines you may have missed from 10 issues ago. With the regular stream of newly available wines coming out, it isn't uncommon for a few to get overlooked. These are limited to stock on hand.

2003 Barbour - Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
The combination of Jim Barbour managing his own vineyard, budded from the Grace Family clone, and Heidi Barrett making the wine is a recipe for success. Since the inaugural vintage in 1995, Barbour has been one of the most sought-after producers in the valley. Vinfolio is pleased to be able to offer Barbour wines for the first time through a special arrangement. The small production primarily goes to restaurants and a handful of selected premium retailers.

The nose shows rich shadings of nectarine, currant, and spicy chocolate mole. The palate is rich and smooth with roasted currant, chocolate, and anise pod. Drink: 2007-2012.

2003 Arnot-Roberts - Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Georges III Vineyard, Napa Valley; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
Beckstoffer Vineyards purchased the historic Beaulieu Vineyard No. 3 in 1988. In recognition of this site's history, it was renamed Georges III for the great Georges de Latour Reserve wines from the past. This 172-acre property is regarded as one of the best sites in the valley for Cabernet Sauvignon.

The wine shows the classically structured nose with deep aromas of appealing black fruits and blueberries. The palate offers flavors of pure cherry, currant, and anise. Overall the wine exudes a vibrant texture and firm tannins. Drink: 2008-2016.

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