THE WILDER SIDE OF CALIFORNIA
Doug Wilder, Issue 56

If you can't beat them, join them. That seems to be the only way to deal with the seemingly endless stream of excellent Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from California. This week features the wines of Byron Kosuge and Emanuel Kemiji of Miura, offering a trio of outstanding Pinot Noir as well as a Chardonnay. A late addition from Peay Vineyard's Vanessa Wong is an unexpected jewel.

The wines of Miura
Emanuel Kemiji and Byron Kosuge were college roommates; now, years later, they are the core of the Miura team. The label is named for the fiercest of Spanish fighting bulls, and the pair work primarily with Pinot Noir from top-flight vineyards around the state.

2002 Miura - Chardonnay Talley Vineyard, Arroyo Grande; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
Made by Byron Kosuge of Saintsbury, Miura capitalizes on excellent vineyard sites. Talley Vineyard near San Luis Obispo produces exceptional fruit, and Miura owner, Emanuel Kemiji, M.S., has tapped them as a source for several years. Specially priced, regularly $45.00.

Talley fruit is typified by beautiful aromatics encompassing rich lemon and pear. Loads of lemon and toasty spice on the palate. The finish is smooth and focused Drink: 2006-2009.

2002 Miura - Pinot Noir Hudson Vineyard, Carneros; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
For readers of my weekly offers, the quality of the Hudson Vineyard should be evident. Arnot Roberts, Elyse, Havens, Kesner, Ramey, and Scholium have all been hugely successful here. It is time now to add Miura to the list.

The color is darker than most Pinot Noir but nothing can take away from the beautiful nose; spicy black cherry and creamy blue fruit. On the palate, flavors range from smooth black cherry to soft expressions of velvet-like red fruits. Drink: 2006-2012.

2003 Miura - Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands; Vinfolio rating: 94 points
This property should not need an introduction; for several years it has been one of the most sought-after sources in California for Pinot Noir. Kosuge certainly doesn't disappoint here, making a top flight example from this great fruit.

The intensity in the wine is the first thing I noticed—radiant polished blueberry and creamy cherry pushed up against excellent acidity. This wine is a huge mouthful and will benefit from several years of maturation. Drink: 2008-2014.

2003 Miura - Pinot Noir Talley Vineyard, Arroyo Grande; Vinfolio rating: 98 points
This is one of those sublime pleasures in Pinot Noir when you begin running out of superlatives to describe it. Talley Vineyard produced their first Pinot Noir in 1995 and it was extraordinary. Vinfolio has secured a significant portion of this stellar wine. Not to be missed by the serious Pinot fan.

Garnet/ruby in color, a deep and rich nose with excellent concentration. Aromas of rose petal, minty blue and black fruits, nectarine and guava. Ultra plush sublime red fruit flavors with faint rose, mineral and crisp stone fruit on finish. Drink: 2006-2012.

2004 Peay - Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast; Vinfolio rating: 97 points
Vanessa Wong developed her reputation as a winemaker at Peter Michael in the late ‘90s before starting her own winery with husband Nick Peay. They chose to exploit the cool climate of the fog-shrouded Sonoma coast to create a particular style of Chardonnay not seen in many places. This is one of those no-doubt-about-it, drop-dead gorgeous wines. It's hard to believe that it has taken this long for a Peay Vineyards wine to appear in WSC, but the wait was certainly worth it.

The nose is super lush with a mixture of gravel and mineral, waxy vanilla anise, lemon and slightly smoky pear. The flavors are intense, clean and vibrant mineral, lemon infused with hints of rich vanilla, and pain grille—excellent length. Very pretty finish.

2002 Henry, James - Chardonnay Woolsey Road, Russian River Valley; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
One of most talked-about winemakers in the world is Helen Turley, and she happens to be the muscle behind the James Henry wines. There is a small amount of the second release 2002 still available.

The first thing to note is a complex, toasty nose full of lemon flesh, apple and honeyed hazelnuts, with a beautiful focused mouth entry and good acidity. It has extra dimension on the toasty finish. It isn't Marcassin, but it is an excellent value. Drink: 2006-2009.

2003 Henry, James - Chardonnay Woolsey Road, Russian River Valley; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
Shows off a rich oily, lemon, honey and gardenia scented nose. On the palate the flavors are exquisitely surreal. The mouth is full of juicy pear and lemon up front with effusively nutty, smooth and viscous toasted vanilla and a finish that lasts at least 30 seconds. Drink: 2006-2009.

2004 Ancien - Pinot Noir Carneros; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
By now you are familiar with the work of Ken Bernards. The excellent Chardonnay from this same site was written about here last week, receiving 93 points. The quality is certainly there. Ancien is available in limited quantities.

Aromas of dark cherry, spicy chocolate mole on the nose, showing smooth supple blue fruits and richness throughout. The wine is boldly flavored with a smooth balanced finish and a touch of herb on the finish. Drink: 2006-2009.

2004 Baker Lane - Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast; Vinfolio rating: 91 points
Baker Lane is a new producer where former wine retailer Stephen Singer debuts a lively Pinot Noir made up of Pommard and Dijon clones (777 and 115), all of which are kept separate throughout the wine-making process. Steven Canter is the winemaker.

Shows an earthy nose with hints of blueberry, vanilla spice and herbs. The flavors are nicely focused strawberry, wet stone and spice with a bit of herb on the finish, nice acidity. Drink: 2006-2012.

2000 Silver, Benjamin - Pinot Noir Lake Marie Vineyard, Santa Barbara; Vinfolio rating: 90 points
Another release from the Benjamin Silver portfolio I tasted recently. The wines represent a solid new producer that should begin receiving more attention.

The nose is enticingly creamy and ripe with aromas of cherry, earth and mineral. On the palate the flavors are focused black cherry and herbs, showing nice acidity. Drink: 2006-2012.

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