THE WILDER SIDE OF CALIFORNIA
Doug Wilder, Issue 55

Occasionally there are assortments of wines which cross my desk in quick succession. If I don't bring them to your attention promptly, they may be sold out by the time they appear in a thematic issue of The Wilder Side of California. There are a couple of vitally important wines; Kesner and DuMOL are at the core of this offer. These wines are limited to our annual allocation. Additionally, the Margerum and Selene Sauvignon Blancs are not likely to be available when I try to reorder them, so select these accordingly. Once they're gone, they're really gone.

2004 Kesner - Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard; Vinfolio rating: 94 points
I introduced you to Jason Kesner last year with his debut release of Hudson Vineyard Chardonnay. As the Vineyard Manager, Jason knows this fruit like few others. He knows to pick the fruit at night when the grapes have cooled down and does minimum interventions allowing the wine to finish its malolactic fermentation naturally after 8 months. Aging on the lees and racking just before bottling preserves all of the natural aspects of the wine. Production has doubled to 189 cases.

The nose is packed with delicious aromas of waxy lemon, shortbread and mineral. On the palate the flavors are exceptionally focused with clean expressive acids, mineral, dried lemon, nectarine flesh. The finish has excellent length. Drink: 2006-2012.

It is a great pleasure to offer this DuMOL. I have been fortunate to be part of the legacy of this producer from the very first vintage in 1996 when they produced a mere 150 cases of a Russian River Pinot Noir and a Chardonnay. I remember like it was yesterday. Two glasses were sitting on my desk, and as I went back to them over several hours, I observed them doing the exact opposite of what I had expected—they just kept getting better and better. I was convinced that I had encountered one of the best kept secrets in wine and made one of the boldest orders of my career (at that point) taking 25 cases of each. The number of offerings has grown over the years to now encompass 12 different wines. Last year was the first time in nine years that I didn't have this wine to sell. But now it is back with Andy Smith still working his magic in the cellar. These wines have received nothing but praise from virtually every critic. They are a particular favorite of Robert Parker whose preliminary scores are usually an indicator of which direction the final score will go. Owner Kerry Murphy is confident these are the finest wines ever to come out of DuMOL, and I would not hesitate to second that opinion. Parker's final scores on these wines are likely to come out soon, so don't be left behind.

2004 DuMOL - Chardonnay Russian River Valley; Vinfolio rating: 95 points
The Chardonnay from DuMOL has always been one of my favorites, exhibiting great value that embodies the philosophy of owner Kerry Murphy: outstanding consistency from excellent sources and prices that have barely budged over the last nine vintages. These wines could easily command prices 30 to 40% higher. Combining fruit from six sources, including Dutton Ranch, Heintz, Hyde, Hanna and Ritchie, the vine age (up to 24 years) continues to add to the amazing resume of winemaker Andy Smith.

The nose is redolent of preserved Italian lemons with hints of pear, warm citrus and pineapple. On the palate the flavors are rich and ripe with plenty of expression on the finish. Juicy yet showing focused acidity. Drink: 2006-2012.

2004 DuMOL - Pinot Noir Russian River Valley; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
It is a riveting experience to sit down with the guys at DuMOL and taste one of the most consistently excellent wines available. Nine consecutive outstanding years have proved it, and especially with Pinot Noir. I know winemakers who shake their head and ask "Why would anyone want to make Pinot Noir?" They don't call it the heartbreak grape for nothing. Hats off to DuMOL for taking this grape to heart and making it the way it CAN be made. While putting together this review I ran across my note introducing the 2000 vintage, and I think it is appropriate to repeat it here:

Pinot Noir, well REALLY good Pinot Noir, reminds me of a ballerina, delicate and nervously balanced in the stark brightness of the lights, all the while possessing perfect discipline and agility with flawless execution of movements once the music starts.

The wine shows a mantle of beautiful ruby color with a nose of sassafras, spice, black cherry, cola and violets. The palate is ripe and smooth showing excellent extraction of black cherry, licorice and spice. The finish hints of smoke and java. Drink: 2006-2015.

2004 DuMOL - Syrah Russian River Valley; Vinfolio rating 93 points
This is the second vintage from DuMOL of (relatively) moderately aged vines comprised of five outstanding sources, including the fabled ground that produces the Eddie's Patch designate, released in the fall.

The hallmark of this wine is elemental; charcoal roasted meat, earthy and black pepper in the nose developing intense flavors of currants, java and chocolate, with hints of sassafras on the finish. Drink: 2007-2012.

2004 Rutz - Chardonnay Dutton Ranch; Vinfolio rating: 91 points
Last week's offer introduced the Pinot Noir from Keith Rutz, showing exactly what he has been doing since 1991—making excellent wines at reasonable prices. The Rutz shows off all of the textbook Dutton Ranch richness and comes to us in small quantities.

The nose is clean and crisp, but the flavors become distinctively oilier on palate with a clean nutty finish, pear and apple hints along the way. Drink: 2006-2009.

2004 Ancien - Chardonnay Carneros; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
Ken Bernards has very quietly established Ancien as an extremely reliable producer of value-priced wines. The sources for the Chardonnay are Toyon Farm and Vella Ranch which have been nurtured specifically to produce this wine from cuttings selected by the winery.

The nose shows all of the lovely aspects of Carneros; lush coconut-drizzled creme brulee, citrus, fig, and pear aromas merging into an expressive smooth creaminess in the middle. A beautiful example of Chardonnay. Drink: 2006-2008.

2005 Cold Heaven - Viognier Le Bon Climat; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
Morgan Clendenen has named her project appropriately because the wines are certainly divine. A Viognier specialist, she also produces a Pinot Noir and Syrah. This wine is among a group of exceptional cool-climate Rhone whites that invite serious attention.

A nose of honeysuckle, beeswax, ripe juicy peach and guava. The palate displays a provocative combination of slate, mineral, and graphite juxtaposed with sweet lavender, white peach and butter cookies. Cold Heaven is at the pinnacle of specialization in Rhone whites. Drink: 2006-2009.

2003 Silver, Benjamin - Viognier Vogelzang Vineyard; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
A new producer, discovered at this year's Hospice d' Rhone in Paso Robles, Benjamin Silver produced wine for nearly a decade at Zaca Mesa before starting his own brand in 2000. His philosophy is to use all Santa Barbara fruit and keep production extremely small. This is just the first Silver wine offered by Vinfolio, so keep an eye out for more in the future. It is sourced from Vogelzang Vineyard, the site for many excellent Santa Barbara whites.

The nose is dusty and mineral laced with dried lemon peel and a touch of pear. Clean and crisp on the palate with nice length and a little smoke. Reminds me of a recent Condrieu I tried.

With the recent cranking up of the thermometer, this pair of excellent Sauvignon Blanc is just the ticket. Purchase them by the case for chilled summertime enjoyment. I specifically went large on my initial order of both these Sauvignon Blanc simply because experience has shown that it is usually gone when I reorder. Don't let them get away.

2005 Margerum - Sauvignon Blanc Purisima Mountain Vineyard; Vinfolio rating: 94 points
Initially offered in WSC Issue 51, it is certainly worth repeating here. This is one of the most consistently excellent producers of Southern California Sauvignon Blanc.

The aromas are violet, creamy white peach, flint and a pure expression of grape. The flavors are beautifully focused with crisp stone fruit flavors that continue to soften on the palate. Drink: 2006-2008.

2005 Selene - Sauvignon Blanc Hyde Vineyard; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
Mia Klein and Hyde Vineyard are synonymous with world-class Sauvignon Blanc. The Musque clone used by Selene brings a nectar-like richness to the wine that consistently puts it at or near the top of my favorite Sauvignon Blancs. 2005 marks another excellent vintage.

The nose holds a rich lemon perfume with concentrated mineral / wet slate aromas. On the palate the flavors are decidedly more forward than the 2004. The flavors of apple and vibrant stone fruits are polished and smooth throughout the finish. Drink: 2006-2008.

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