THE WILDER SIDE OF CALIFORNIA
Doug Wilder, Issue 54

California Pinot Noir has the beguiling quality that some wines possess a much more formidable profile than others. Some take on characteristics of heavier varietals, and some have other-worldly qualities in spite of the near absence of color. These extremes only add to the allure and mystery of "The Prince of Grapes". This week offers a chance to try several different styles of excellent new arrivals.

2004 Rutz - Pinot Noir Maison Grand Cru, Russian River Valley; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
Keith Rutz has spent many years intrigued by the wines of Burgundy, producing his first Russian River Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in 1992. Noted for their elegance, Rutz wines are not widely available. I recently tasted wine with Keith and found two Pinot Noir that were especially good.

Maison Grand Cru is blended from select sources available to Rutz. The result is a smooth, delicate interpretation of the grape. The lightness in color is backed up by smooth black cherry aromas and creamy elegance on the palate. Excellent value. Drink: 2006-2011.

2004 Rutz - Pinot Noir Dutton Ranch, Russian River Valley; Vinfolio rating: 90 points
Ripe, focused aromas of black cherry with hints of Asian tea. The palate is smooth with excellent balance of fruit and elements of smoke and beeswax. Very elegant throughout. Drink: 2006-2011.

2004 La Crema - Pinot Noir Anderson Valley; Vinfolio rating: 90 points
I recently tasted through the portfolio of La Crema wines and kept going back to the Anderson Valley bottling because it showed such a rich profile. The winery had built their reputation on great value wines in the early 80s. I recall drinking them in 1988 and thinking the quality was excellent for the price. Under the guidance of Melissa Stackhouse, winemaker since 2001, the winery is focusing even more on making statements with their wine. This selection is from their Appellation Series. Look for upcoming reviews on their very limited Nine Barrel program, dedicated to producing 200 cases from the winery's best barrels. I tasted the Pinot in barrel at the Hospice of Sonoma two weeks ago and thought the wine was excellent.

A nose that is enticingly aromatic with blue and red fruits. The flavors are smooth and supple, with dark cherry, cranberry, root beer, mineral and creamy jam-filled nuances. Drink: 2006-2012.

2003 Donum Estate - Pinot Noir Carneros; Vinfolio rating 92 points
Ken Juhasz (Auteur) has established himself as a winemaker to watch. His Auteur Momtasi Vineyard Pinot Noir (VF 93) from Oregon was in Vinfolio's "Top 25 of 2005." Donum Estate in barrel at Hospice of Sonoma was one of my top five favorites.

Unusual for a Carneros Pinot Noir, Donum shows a more reserved burgundian style nose. Ripe and full on the palate with a focused, long finish, smoky black cherry, and a touch of herb. Drink: 2006-2011.

2004 Miner - Pinot Noir Rosella's Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands; Vinfolio rating: 91 points
In last week's issue there were three wines from Gary Brookman. Here are two more produced under the Miner label. For those in the know, these vineyards need no introduction. Both Rosella's and Garys' come from the team of Gary Franscioni and Gary Pisoni. Their names have become synonymous with Santa Lucia Highland fruit.

A lush nose of cranberry, dark cherry marmalade with polished flavors. In a dramatic contrast to the style typically found here, the wine is light as a feather on the palate and sublime on the finish. Drink: 2006-2011.

2004 Miner - Pinot Noir Garys' Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands; Vinfolio rating 91 points
This is an unusual example of Garys'. The nose has hints of cream soda, blueberry puree, and spice. On the palate the smooth flavors are velvet-like with excellent extraction. Drink: 2008-2017.

2004 Roessler - Pinot Noir Sanford & Benedict, Santa Rita Hills; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
Roessler seems to be a frequently featured marque on The Wilder Side of California. The quality is routinely superb. Winemaker for this vintage continues to be Wells Guthrie (Copain). Sanford & Benedict is an outstanding source and has been one of my favorite sites for many years. Put them both together and the results are exceptional.

One of the hallmarks of the vineyard is a rich and expressive nose. The aromas are incredibly intense with smoky anise, black cherry and spice. On the palate flavors of cherry, pomegranate and orange peel prevail showing excellent acidity. Drink: 2007-2015.

2003 Hansel, Walter - Pinot Noir South Slope, Russian River Valley; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
Since their debut a few years ago, the wines of Walter Hansel have been exceptionally strong. The winery's philosophy is based on extremely high quality standards, exemplified by making numerous passes through the vineyard to ensure fruit is picked at perfect ripeness. The results are clear in the bottle.

The nose shows extracted earthy clove, dark cherry and cola aromas; the flavors are sweet and earthy with subtle mint and cola shadings. The moderate acidity makes this an excellent wine to enjoy over the net three to five years. Drink: 2006-2011.

2003 Swan, Joseph - Pinot Noir Saralee's Vineyard, Russian River Valley; Vinfolio rating: 97 points
Under winemaker Rod Berglund the quality of Joseph Swan wines are exceptional. Saralee's is a source that has produced some of the best wines in Sonoma. As you will read in the note, it represents excellent value as well.

Even though the wine is deceptively pale in color, it serves up a multitude of aromas; cherry, cola, sassafras and fragrant flowers. Excellent structure with rich, creamy mid palate supported by beautiful acidity. Drink: 2006-2015.

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