THE WILDER SIDE OF CALIFORNIA
Doug Wilder, Issue 51

The doldrums of winter in the Napa Valley are now a distant memory. The last couple weeks have seen high temperatures in the mid-70s, registering a peak of 94 degrees in my backyard last Sunday. If you are beginning to think about the coolest wines to have over the next few months, here are some not to miss. Dry whites are equally at home with your summertime menu or as refreshing hot-weather refreshment. These wines can take the chill and keep coming back for more. I recommend stocking up on a selection for regular warm weather enjoyment.

2005 Selene - Sauvignon Blanc Hyde Vineyard, Carneros; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
Mia Klein and Hyde Vineyard are synonymous with world-class Sauvignon Blanc. The Musque clone used by Selene brings a nectar-like richness to the wine that consistently puts it at or near the top of my favorite Sauvignon Blancs. 2005 marks another excellent vintage.

The nose holds a rich lemon perfume with concentrated mineral / wet slate aromas. On the palate the flavors are decidedly more forward than the 2004. The flavors of apple and vibrant stone fruits are polished and smooth throughout the finish. Drink: 2006-2008.

2005 Margerum - Pinot Gris Alisos Vineyard, Santa Barbara; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
Some of the hottest selling whites of last year came to us from Doug Margerum in Santa Barbara. The small production Westerly and Purisima Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc were instant favorites here. This year they are joined by a stunning, limited Pinot Gris that Margerum considers his "best white of 2005." Quite a statement, but who am I to argue?

Pristine, cleanly focused aromas of nectarine and mineral, followed by flavors of juicy nectarine, white peach and wet stones. Drink: 2006.

2005 Margerum - Sauvignon Blanc Westerly Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
Doug's Westerly Vineyard blocks are picked over a period of a month allowing blending of approximately 50% clean, crisp fruit and richer, riper fruit. Westerly hits me much like the Scholium Project La Severita di Bruto.

The aromas are of exotic zesty lime and sweet, rich citrus marmalade. On the palate, there are distinctive flavors of spicy habanero chili, mouth-watering key lime, and honey-laced beeswax. Drink: 2006-2008.

2005 Margerum - Sauvignon Blanc Purisima Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley; Vinfolio rating: 94 points
Doug's simple analysis of this wine is right on. He describes it like biting into a cold grape. The vineyard is picked at a low sugar level (22.5 brix) and low pH. This is one of the most consistently excellent producers of Southern California Sauvignon Blanc.

The aromas are violet, creamy white peach, flint and a pure expression of grape. The flavors are beautifully focused with crisp stone fruit flavors that continue to soften on the palate.

2005 Garretson - Viognier The Saothar, Paso Robles; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
It seems every year there is a standout white wine from Mat Garretson that I can't ignore. Last year it was the Taistelai Roussanne, and before that was Viognier, Table 67. His work with Rhone varietals is passionate and predictably idiosyncratic. The winemaker feels this Viognier is the best he has ever produced.

The nose conveys a sense of roses dipped in honey with hints of smoky carnauba. The palate is ripe and crisp with flavors of zesty lime, lemon and peach, finishing with a hint of sweet shortbread.

2005 Ojai - Viognier Ice Wine Roll Ranch, Ojai Valley (375ml); Vinfolio rating: 94 points
A few years ago I tasted Adam Tolmach's Roll Ranch Viognier for the first time, and it was one of those transforming experiences. Incredible richness, balance, and acidity wrapped into one wine made for a spectacular offering. In 2005, the wine is equally stellar and deserves attention from anyone serious about world-class California late harvest Viognier.

An ethereal nose of amplified honeysuckle and gardenia. The palate is rich, pure pineapple, with hints of lychee, pomegranate, Seville orange and cotton candy. Wines of this style are imminently ageable because of the sugar and acid level. This wine is a must-have. Drink: 2006-2020.

2004 Halleck - Gewurztraminer Piner Creek Ranch; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
Along with Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer makes some of the most delicious alternative hot weather wines. I believe this is the only domestic example I have included in The Wilder Side of California. Made by Ross Halleck.

Powerful aromatics of diesel and roasted citrus with a warm, slow-bake lemon tart palate. Very nice acidity.

2003 Elyse - L'Ingenue, California; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
54% Roussanne, 27% Marsanne, 17% Viognier, 3% Grenache Blanc
One of the most exciting white blends I tasted last year, made by Ray Coursen. A limited amount is still in stock.

Overall the wine is rich and viscous with aromas of the faintest Meyer lemon and carnauba wax. The palate is full-bodied with butter cream, mango and peach that follow through to the finish showing hints of macadamia and fragrant oils. Drink: 2005-2008.

2005 Scholium Project - NAUCRATIS, California; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
Fermented and "aged" in a steel cube, it is an anomaly of SCHOLIUM's style, seeing no wood at all. It has a nose of ripe and slightly dried apricot, with whiffs of jasmine blossom. On the palate there is a finely focused minerality, with soft hints of anise; mineral and citrus on the finish. Drink: 2006.

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