THE WILDER SIDE OF CALIFORNIA
Doug Wilder, Issue 49

It's spring again, and there are many new releases coming into the market. Some are well established, some are new wines added to existing offerings, and still others are completely new brands. Following two consecutive weeks of Pinot Noir, we return to Napa's roots: red Bordeaux varietals. I will taste over 100 new Cabernet Sauvignon at the Cabernet Society barrel tasting next Monday. Stay tuned for a report.

2003 Dyer - Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
Bill and Dawnine Dyer previewed this wine at Premiere Napa Valley last year, and I thought it was one of the best there. Now, one year later, the wine is released, and it shows beautifully. It is their first departure from the tiny estate vineyard they own on Diamond Mountain. The quality is every bit the equal of their most recently released estate bottling.

Full bodied structure with nice focus, plump cherry, dusty tannins in the nose. Elegant and focused on the palate. Drink: 2006-2010.

2003 Scarecrow - Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford, Napa Valley; Vinfolio rating: 97 points
Celia Masyczek (Cornerstone, Husic, Rocca, Keever, 2480, and formerly of Staglin and Hartwell) is the winemaker here. Scarecrow is farmed from the JJ Cohn Vineyard, a source of fruit well regarded in the valley for over sixty years, planted in Rutherford. This is their first vintage, and I look forward to many more.

Aromas of dark cherries, black plum, juicy macerated huckleberry and dark chocolate. Beautifully sculpted on entry, the flavors impart a combination of dark chocolate, cassis, espresso and a complex, smooth creaminess. With continued airing the nose imparts hints of sweet, toasted coconut and an ethereal glimmer of long-gone vineyard roses that inexplicably find their way into the wine. This all takes place in a framework of beautifully structured tannins. Drink: 2007-2017.

2003 Detert Family - Cabernet Franc, Oakville, Napa Valley; Vinfolio rating: 94 points
Tom Garrett (Jos Soli, Revana, and formerly of Turley) makes wine for his family, and the 2003 release celebrates their 50-year history of growing grapes from this property in Oakville. Detert's 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon was in Vinfolio's "Top 25 of 2005," and the Franc takes up where that left off.

Over a period of two hours the wine gains in dimension, expressing aromas of crushed blackberry on toast, blue fruits, and fragrant blossoms. The nose is simply a prelude to the rich flavors of chocolate, java, violet, and herbs. Drink: 2006-2016.

2003 EMH - Cabernet Sauvignon Black Cat, Napa Valley; Vinfolio rating: 90 points
Merrill Lindquist has increased production from her tiny estate near Araujo, Fisher, Frediani and Kenefick Vineyards in Calistoga and still only produces 100 cases. The winemaker is Art Finkelstein, (Judd's Hill, and the original owner of Whitehall Lane).

The nose shows a bit of anise, violet and black cherry/vanilla laden oak. On the palate the focus is on some broad shouldered ripeness with subtle shadings of blueberry, cocoa, earth and slate. Drink: 2006-2011.

2003 Hoopes - Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville, Napa Valley; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
Hoopes is an excellent recent addition to the Oakville appellation. Jason Fisher (Cosentino and Fountainhead) is the winemaker. I first tasted Hoopes at the Oakville Growers tasting in 2004 and noted it as one to watch.

The nose is polished with rich, tarry black cherry aromas. The palate shows well defined black cherry, licorice, and cassis, finishing with smooth dark chocolate. Drink: 2006-2012.

2003 David Arthur - Cabernet Sauvignon Estate, Napa Valley; Not rated
2003 David Arthur - Cabernet Sauvignon Elevation 1147, Napa Valley; Not rated
This is the first vintage of Cabernet Sauvignon from David Arthur I have offered without tasting it first. Considering what I know about the reputation of the owner and the winemaker, I am confident in what they are doing. A recent trade event on Pritchard Hill gave me an indication of how good the wines are. While everyone else was still pouring, David's table had a case of empty bottles sitting on it. I have worked with this winery since the premiere vintage of their two Cabernet releases in 1996, and they sell out quickly. So far, the one published review of the 2003 vintage from this producer was from a barrel sample, and it has no bearing on what the finished wine is really like. The consensus I get from people who have tasted the wine is that it is great. Plus, Vinfolio has the best prices available on these wines.

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