THE WILDER SIDE OF CALIFORNIA
Doug Wilder, Issue 48

Ambullneo is a relatively new producer who recently arrived on the scene. The unusual name is actually an acronym for AMerican BULLdog NEOpolitan mastiff; a new cross-breed of canine that is large, dependable and fearless. The winery is owned by Greg Linn, who loves these big dogs. Greg also has a passion for top-flight Burgundy, among other wine. With his winemaker, Scott Ames, he sources fruit from around the state, producing several cuvees which are as unique as they are delicious.

Production is exceptionally small. Low yields are important to Greg, which is why he negotiates his grape-purchase contracts by the acre instead of the ton. He reduces the yields every step of the way, beginning with dropping fruit in the vineyard (usually farmed to about 3000 lbs per acre). He then further examines the quality of the grapes at the sorting table. Only certain lots are selected for aging, and the final blend is made up of the best barrels. At this rate, he has reduced production by half. The results of Linn's scrupulous selection process are intense and extremely limited wines; only a handful of accounts will ever see an allocation. These wines are very special.

Robert Parker called the premiere release of 2002 Ambullneo Pinot Noir Bulldog as one of the most stunning Pinot Noirs he tasted in 2004, rating it 95 points.

I also tasted Melville again with compelling results...

2004 Ambullneo - Chardonnay Big Paw, Santa Maria Valley; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
Big Paw is sourced from two excellent vineyards owned by Nicholas and Stephen Miller. It is comprised of 65% Solomon Hills Vineyard (7 year old vines considered the new hotspot for Chardonnay and Pinot in the region) and 35% Bien Nacido Vineyard (arguably the most respected vineyard in the area).

A brilliant nose of sun-dried lemons, wet river stones, and herb-laced vanilla bean. Clean and focused on the palate with some dry, crisp character. Lemon tart and a dollop of butter cream on finish. Drink: 2006-2009.

2004 Ambullneo - Pinot Noir Mastiff Cuvee, Carneros; Vinfolio rating: 97 points
Continuing with the theme of outstanding vineyard sources, Mastiff Cuvee is from two of the most sought-after properties for Pinot Noir in Napa Valley. Larry Hyde's Vineyard provides 65% and Lee Hudson Vineyard, the remainder.

I describe this wine like a V12 Ferrari at idle. Strutting power, but not moving a hair out of place. Electrified sparks of sugar-dipped lemon drops, and red cherry in the nose. On the palate, massive and extracted with some smoky orange/citrus nuances, black cherry, melted dark chocolate. Overall this wine is incredibly dense and mouth-coating. A thrill ride. Drink: 2007-2016.

2004 Ambullneo - Pinot Noir Bulldog Reserve, Santa Maria Valley; Vinfolio rating: 94 points
This is another wine sourced from the Miller's Solomon Hills Vineyard. It is blended with 10% Laetitia and 10% Rancho Ontiveros, farmed by James Ontiveros, resulting in an exotic offering.

A nose of powder-fine cranberry, with some briary, herbal-scented aromas. The flavors are lush and focused all at once showing a polished entry with full-bodied dark cherry, and an ethereal acid structure. There is backbone once the wine settles on the palate, but it builds-out on the finish with some beautiful tobacco and saddle leather. A memorable wine. Drink: 2006-2016.

2004 Ambullneo - Pinot Noir Canis Major; Vinfolio rating: 94 points
This is the premiere blended lot of Bulldog and Mastiff. It encompasses all of the selected vineyard sources; 56% Solomon Hills, 20% Hyde, 10% Hudson, 7% Rancho Ontiveros.

An intense embodiment of Pinot Noir. Concentrated and polished, approachable cherry and creamy strawberry hints, rich black cherry and juicy blueberry, hums into the back of the palate bringing some unexpected vibrancy. Drink: 2006-2012.

Chad Melville visited me last week when he was making a trip to the valley, and I tasted a bunch of his wines. It makes sense to discuss the two Pinot Noir he offered me here.

2004 Melville - Pinot Noir Estate, Santa Rita Hills; Vinfolio rating: 94 points
A reprise of one of the favorites at Vinfolio during the later part of 2005. I had the chance to re-taste with Chad Melville last week and found the wine still tasted beautifully. As a reminder, here are my notes from the Top 25 list of 2005.

Lush, focused nose of red and blue fruits shows well integrated mineral and hints of cinnamon and spice. The palate of black cherry, blue plum and berries is balanced with finely wrought acidity. Drink: 2005-2010.

2004 Melville - Pinot Noir Terraces Estate, Santa Rita Hills; Vinfolio rating: 95 points
From the winery's Estate Small Lot Collection, Vinfolio is one of a small number of retailers in the country to handle this wine. Terraces comes from the most exposed portion of their vineyard and is subject to the constant winds found in the appellation. The blocks are planted to Swan, Mount Eden, 115, 667, and 777 clones. For added nuances, winemaker Greg Brewer retains stems for about 50% of the fermentation.

Seductive, rich aromas of dark cherry, and spicy blueberry and blossoms, richly textured and filled out on the palate, smoky lushness on the finish. Drink: 2006-2014.

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