THE WILDER SIDE OF CALIFORNIA
Doug Wilder, Issue 47

I have no doubt that all of you are aware by now of the continual rain we're experiencing here in Northern California. It is quickly losing its novelty, as the vineyards need some dry weather. We have had only one dry day in the past three weeks, and it's likely the wet weather will continue for a while. Fortunately, the rain isn't the only news we have; the time has come for the Pinot Noir spring releases. The hits just keep rolling through my door and many of these beauties are very limited, even to the point that I haven't tasted them (a very rare occurrence). Additionally, there are a few cases of some other recent releases available.

2004 Auteur - Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard, Yamhill-Carlton, Oregon; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
Last year, Auteur was the only non-California wine to make it on Vinfolio's Top 25 list of 2005. Winemaker, Ken Juhasz, who also makes wine for Donum Estates in Carneros, has another hit on his hands with the Auteur Pinot Noir from Shea Vineyard. This site has produced some of the top examples from Oregon: Ken Wright, Beaux Freres and Sine Qua Non. This is the first professional review for his offering from Shea.

The nose is packed with bright red cherry, supple violet, and some licorice. The palate is elegantly balanced with seamless richness and finely polished acidity. Drink: 2006-2015.

2003 Auteur - Pinot Noir Hyland Vineyard, Willamette Valley; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
Recently re-tasted and showing an essence of exotic ripe mango in the nose. Hyland yields 1.6 tons per acre from primarily Pommard and Coury clones. This premiere release has a nose of bright cherry with black raspberry hints. The palate is focused and polished with smooth, complex flavors of black tea, cherry, black raspberry, violets, and white pepper. Drink: 2006-2010.

2004 Green Truck - Pinot Noir, Napa Valley; Vinfolio rating: 91 points
Kent Fortner's Green Truck debuted last year to excellent reviews; readers responded enthusiastically to the straight-forward honesty found in the wine. What else do you expect when the label depicts a 1966 Ford pickup from Kansas? His second vintage picks up where he left off. Green Truck is sourced from the Nord Vineyard near the mouth of the Napa River, as well as Suscol Ridge (Pommard clone), a collapsed volcano remnant only 2 km from Nord.

The nose holds aromas of tarry black cherry with some orange peel and spice. The palate shows abundant ripe flavors of dark and red cherry with supple acidity. Drink: 2006-2011.

2003 Green Truck - Pinot Noir, Napa Valley; Vinfolio rating: 91 points
There is a small quantity left of this delightful premiere vintage. For those of you who want a bit more, this is likely your last chance.

The nose is full of soft, red cherry with luscious creamy bits of vanilla and cola spice. On the palate there is well formed acidity wrapped around the smooth, loamy black cherry flavors. Drink: 2006-2010.

2004 Hirsch - Pinot Noir Estate, Sonoma Coast; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
The venerable Hirsch Vineyard has been growing world class Pinot Noir for a quarter century. In 1980, David Hirsch carved out a mere twenty-two acres from coastal ridges, which has now expanded to forty-seven. The incredible quality of the grapes, so coveted by other wineries, finally spurred the vineyard to produce and bottle their own wine. The debut vintage was in 2003. A recent Wine Spectator editorial posited that Hirsch Vineyard is among a handful of sites in the Sonoma Coast appellation that may soon be regarded as America's first grand cru.

The nose shows an extracted boldness with lapsang and cherry aromas, backed up by hints of flinty mineral. The flavors merge beautifully with the nose showing focused smoky cherry, blue plum, and orange peel. Drink: 2007-2015.

2004 Lucia - Pinot Noir Garys' Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
If you don't already know it, Lucia is one of the biggest stories from California's Central Coast. Gary, Mark, and Jeff Pisoni offer this brand as an alternative to their exceptional Pisoni Estate. The family grows all of the fruit for Lucia and Jeff Pisoni makes the wine. The Garys' Vineyard is jointly owned by childhood friends Gary Franscioni (ROAR) and Gary Pisoni. The quality of the wine is consistently similar to the estate wine, and offer excellent value.

The wine possesses an expressive nose of red cherry, violet, and spice. The palate shows nicely integrated flavors of black cherry, earth, and mineral with supple tannins. Drink: 2006-2012.

2004 Lucia - Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands; Vinfolio rating: 90 points
The Pisoni boys source the fruit for this wine from their estate vineyard as well as the Garys'. It is a beautiful representation of classic Santa Lucia Highland style.

A nose full of spicy black cherry and plump blackberry combined with a palate that is smooth and creamy, showing hints of mineral and earth. Nicely defined tannins keep things focused. Drink: 2006-2010.

2004 Favia - Pinot Noir La Josefina, Russian River Valley; Vinfolio rating: 94 points
The 2004 La Josefina is dramatically exotic. Annie Favia comments that the smoky characteristics are in the grapes when she does the sample trials before harvest. John Bucher's Westside Road vineyard is the same source as last year.

Aromas of dark cherry and sassafras with smooth caramel, smoky mineral notes in the nose. Bold on the palate, showing rich Rhone-like bacon fat with excellent acidity, dusty rose with subtle hints of black cherry and spice. Drink: 2006-2012.

It isn't common to list wines in the Wilder Side of California without a rating. However, there are rare situations where wines with established pedigree or extraordinarily limited allocations are offered to me without the ability to taste. Far from being reluctant to make a decision on these wines, I welcome the opportunity to offer them to our readers on a first-come basis. It is hoped that great relationships with these producers will be formed in 2006, and Vinfolio will be able to offer you more of these wines in the future. Clearly there is no shortage of demand for them.

2003 Hirsch - Pinot Noir Estate, Sonoma Coast (magnum); Vinfolio rating: NR
This was the first true estate wine from Hirsch, and also marked the last vintage produced by Vanessa Wong (Peter Michael, Peay). Vinfolio has no tasting notes on this wine simply because it was only offered to us in magnums, which are extraordinarily scarce. I decided that this wine deserved to be offered in the context of its sibling reviewed above. 572 cases produced.

2004 Roar - Pinot Noir Rosella's Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands; Vinfolio rating: NR
Named for the ubiquitous "howler" winds through this area, Gary and Rosella Franscioni have attained high acclaim from their estate grown fruit. The Rosella's is made from a pair of Dijon clones as well as Pisoni.

2004 Roar - Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands; Vinfolio rating: NR
Similarly styled to the Lucia, this wine represents Roar's commitment to create a worthy alternative to their flagship Rosella's Vineyard.

2004 August West - Pinot Noir Rosella's Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands; Vinfolio rating: NR
August West is a partnership between growers Gary Franscioni, Howard Graham, and winemaker Ed Kurtzman. Their first two releases beginning with 2002 quickly sold out. August West also produces a designated Graham Vineyard Pinot Noir.

2004 Capiaux - Pinot Noir Garys' Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands; Vinfolio rating: NR
Winemaker/Owner Sean Capiaux's work is truly artisinal. He contracts for no more than two acres of fruit from each of the sources he uses, and his efforts are routinely outstanding. He has always impressed me with the purity the wines show, embracing the spirit of their sources. Capiaux's interpretation of the Garys' Vineyard typically shows the powerful, almost Syrah-like tendencies this area is known for.

2004 Capiaux - Pinot Noir Widdoes Vineyard, Russian River Valley; Vinfolio rating: NR
This vineyard is also used by the highly acclaimed DuMOL winery and typifies classic Russian River character.

2004 Capiaux - Pinot Noir Chimera, Sonoma County; Vinfolio rating: NR
Chimera is the insider's favorite wine from Sean Capiaux. Always a delicious wine, giving all of the enjoyment of its vineyard designated siblings. This vintage is sourced from six vineyards which include Pisoni, Gary's, and Widdoes.

2004 Loring - Pinot Noir Keefer Ranch, Russian River Valley; Vinfolio rating: NR
The name Brian Loring is one of the best regarded in California Pinot Noir circles. The wines routinely sell primarily through a mailing list and there are never more than a handful of cases for selected retail accounts.

Vinfolio offers an entirely new way to develop and manage your wine. Our online cellar management software is integrated with a full suite of collector services for buying, selling, inventorying, and storing wine. A Vinfolio membership includes

• Exceptional wine offers
• Buying and selling services
• VinCellar^TM online cellar management software
• Free data entry into VinCellar
• Access to Tanzer, Burghound & Galloni scores and reviews
• Automated cellar valuation

To learn more about Vinfolio, please visit www.vinfolio.com. We invite you to sign up for a 60-day complimentary membership.

Access prior issues of The Wilder Side of California
Visit the Wilder Side for a list of all previous issues. And if you know anyone who would like to begin receiving this weekly wine letter, it's as simple as submitting an email address on the same page.

Corporate Office
1890 Bryant Street, Suite 208
San Francisco, CA 94110
Tel 800 969 1961
Tel 415 946 1300
Fax 415 946 1359
Email wineoffers@vinfolio.com

Napa Valley Office
1030 Main Street, Suite 209
St. Helena, CA 94574
Tel 800 969 4557
Tel 707 967 8514
Fax 707 963 1608
Email wineoffers@vinfolio.com

(c) 2006 Vinfolio. Reproduction of material contained herein without written permission is prohibited by law. The news media, wine distributors, and retailers may use brief portions of this material provided it is not distorted and Vinfolio is given credit for the material utilized.