THE WILDER SIDE OF CALIFORNIA
Doug Wilder, Issue 30

Winemaking is a skill often overlooked when tasting the finished product. Those who visit Wine Country may be lucky enough to sample wine in barrel that could be years away from release. Freshly crushed juice bears little resemblance to the wine you enjoy with dinner. Before a wine is released many fundamental decisions need to be made including when to pick, how to crush, how long to ferment, and what oak program to use.

An aspect of winemaking that has fascinated me for years is the art of blending, the process of combining individual wines to create an assemblage that is better than the sum of its parts. Often a blend can come together serendipitously when excess amounts of juice magically combine. Orin Swift's 2004 The Prisoner (Top 25 wine of 2005; VF 96) is a great example of an enormously successful brand that materialized from blending barrel lots that were not being used.

This week I look at a selection of seven wines that in total represent thirteen different grapes. These unique wines resulted from the deliberate decision to create something new and exciting. I think they have all succeeded.

2002 Bacio Divino - Proprietary Red, Napa Valley; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Sangiovese, 15% Petite Sirah
Claus Janzen has been making this wine for a number of years, and it is always delicious. He produces Bacio from seven different vineyards in Napa Valley. The blend makes for an interesting combination.

Bacio Divino is classically smooth and supple, with very well integrated aromas and flavors. The nose bursts with ripely scented, polished aromas. The ripeness carries the palate to a sublimely sweet finish. Drink: 2005-2012.

2003 Elyse - Le Corbeau Hudson Vineyard, Los Carneros; Vinfolio rating: 94 points
90% Grenache 10% Syrah
Le Corbeau (The Raven) reminds me of the great Grenache made by Neyers from this same fruit source, Hudson Vineyard. Most of Winemaker Ray Coursen's wines have appeared in The Wilder Side this year. These two are compelling examples of the winemaker's craft.

The aromas are of lead pencil, black and blue berry nectar, creme de cassis, powdered cocoa, and smoke. Beautiful structure with flavors of smooth and polished sweet cassis, nectarine, blackberry, plum, and toast. Drink: 2005-2012.

2003 Elyse - L'Ingenue, California; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
54% Roussanne, 27% Marsanne, 17% Viognier, 3% Grenache Blanc
This is Coursen's first release of these enchanting varietals blended together, and I hope it isn't the last.

Overall the wine is rich and viscous with aromas of the faintest Meyer lemon and carnauba wax. The palate is full bodied with butter cream, mango and peach that follow through to the finish showing hints of macadamia and fragrant oils. Drink: 2005-2008.

2002 Havens - Black and Blue, Napa Valley; Vinfolio rating: 91 points
50% Syrah, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon
It has been ten years since Michael Havens has made a blend like this. The first and only other time was in 1992 when it was custom made for Manfred Krankl at Campanile in Los Angeles. Comprised of all estate grown fruit, these two grapes work very well together.

The initial aromas are leathery and sweet with smooth black cherry and cassis. On the palate, the cassis and cherry are joined by rich espresso on the finish with excellent length. Drink: 2005-2011.

2002 Miner - The Oracle, Napa Valley; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc
This is the second release of The Oracle made by Gary Brookman. All of the fruit comes from the Krupp Stagecoach Vineyard near Atlas Peak.

Oracle is very dark; a deep purple-black. The nose is exceedingly rich with aromas of exotic sandalwood, grilled savory herbs, macerated black plum and currant. The palate is rounded and soft with black currant and chocolate merging into smooth cherry on the finish. Drink: 2006-2012.

2002 Oakville Ranch - Field Blend, Oakville, Napa Valley; Vinfolio rating: 94 points
72% Zinfandel, 17% Petite Sirah, 11% Carignane
Those who got in on the remarkable 2001 release of this wine in October will be happy to learn that the new release is even better. Ashley Heisey is quickly establishing herself at this winery as an exceptional winemaker. I tasted her Chardonnay from Oakville Ranch also and it is utterly gorgeous. It must be all of those years at Far Niente.

The four barrels of Field Blend are from 80 year-old St. George rootstock grown on the property, and they show no sign of slowing down. The nose is full of dark, macerated fruits with hints of creme brulee, violets, and forest floor. Exquisite flavors of gingersnap, pure blueberry, cranberry and spice. Drink: 2005-2010.

2003 Stolpman - La Croce, Santa Ynez Valley; Vinfolio rating: 92 points
50% Syrah, 50% Sangiovese
Sashi Moorman and Peter Hunken were inspired to create this unusual blend called La Croce (the cross) by working with Italian winemaker, Alberto Antonini. The two grapes ripened at the same time, so the decision was made to co-ferment the lots. Also, the fermentation occurred in new French barrels rather than stainless steel tanks. These factors serve to greatly intensify the wine's complexity.

La Croce is a deliciously smooth, vibrant and seductive wine showing the bright, black cherry character of Sangiovese and the dark, blue fruit of Syrah. The wine finishes with some well developed tannins. Drink: 2007-2012.

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