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December 2, 2005

THE WILDER SIDE OF CALIFORNIA
Doug Wilder, Issue 28

Special Edition: The Top 25 of 2005

St. Helena, CA - December 2, 2005

I am pleased to publish the annual list of my top wines tasted during the year. During the course of 2005, I tasted over 1,000 wines from all regions of California. In fact, I am based in St. Helena, the heart of Napa Valley, so that I can scout out the emergence of new wines and be the first to bring them to you. In addition, I attend conferences on a regular basis such as the Pinot Forum in Russian River and the Celebration of Santa Rita Hills. The result of these efforts is my weekly Wilder Side of California wineletter, where I write up those wines meriting a score of at least 90 points.

This year I made a few changes. I expanded the list from 20 to 25 wines and have re-instituted the Winery and Winemaker of the Year. We also decided to release it a month earlier to give you time to order for holiday celebrations.

AN OVERVIEW OF THE YEAR - PINOT NOIR TAKES OVER

When I look at the makeup of this year's list compared to last year, I find only six examples of Cabernet Sauvignon. This is about half the number on the 2004 list when Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux blends were the leading category with eleven examples.

Following my attendance at a pair of eye-opening Pinot Noir events earlier in the year, I can't say I am surprised to see Pinot Noir leading this year with nine examples making the list, compared to only one last year. And the quality of these wines is astounding, averaging 95 points and coming from five distinct appellations.

VINFOLIO'S TOP 25 OF 2005




VINTAGE
WINE
PRODUCTION
750ml
RATING
2002
Scholium Project - SYLPHS Guman Vineyard SOLD OUT
89 cases
$80
VF 100
2003
Blackbird - Merlot, Oak Knoll District SOLD OUT
75 cases
$70
VF 98
2003
Dierberg - Pinot Noir Estate, Santa Maria Valley
$30
VF 97
2003
Maldonado - Chardonnay Los Olivos Vineyard, Napa Valley
520 cases
$45
VF 96
2004
Orin Swift - The Prisoner, Napa Valley
8,000 cases
$28
VF 96
2002
Revana Family - Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
$90
VF 96
2002
Showket - Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville
1,150 cases
$75
VF 96
2003
Adrian Fog - Pinot Noir Anderson Valley
190 cases
$50
VF 95
2003
Derbes - Pinot Noir Russian River Valley
200 cases
$44
VF 95
2002
Detert Family - Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville, Napa Valley
300 cases
$45
VF 95
2002
Kamen - Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County
$50
VF 95
2004
Selene - Sauvignon Blanc Hyde Vineyard, Carneros
1,100 cases
$28
VF 95
2003
Stolpman - Syrah Hilltops Estate, Santa Ynez Valley
850 cases
$32
VF 95
2003
Woodenhead - Pinot Noir Wiley Vineyard, Anderson Valley
310 cases
$45
VF 95
2002
Arcadian - Pinot Noir Dierberg Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley
<200 cases
$45
VF 94
2003
Favia - Pinot Noir La Josefina, Russian River
200 cases
$65
VF 94
2004
Melville - Pinot Noir Estate, Santa Rita Hills
2,500 cases
$25
VF 94
2003
Piedrasassi - Syrah California
450 cases
$49
VF 94
2002
Showket - Sangiovese, Oakville, Napa Valley
975 cases
$30
VF 94
2002
Tres Sabores - Zinfandel Rudy Zuidema, Rutherford
300 cases
$31
VF 94
2002
Diamond Terrace - Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain District
$50
VF 94
2003
Ancien - Pinot Noir Russian River Valley
250 cases
$38
VF 93
2003
Auteur - Pinot Noir Momtasi Vineyard, Willamette Valley
77 cases
$45
VF 93
2003
Melka - Cabernet Sauvignon CJ, Napa Valley
600 cases
$41
VF 93
2004
Patz & Hall - Chardonnay Durell Vineyard
$40
VF 93


Try one of everything!
Order the "Dream Suite" package for $1,021, containing one bottle of each of the 23 available wines from the Top 25 of 2005, by replying to this email or calling 1-800-969-1961.

VINFOLIO WINEMAKER OF THE YEAR 2005

Abe Schoener - SCHOLIUM PROJECT

Before diving into the list, I want to bring attention to one of the most significant additions to Vinfolio's inventory and The Wilder Side of California this year: SCHOLIUM PROJECT. The wines crafted by Abe Schoener are not only incredible examples of their respective varietals, but equally significant is the miniscule production and high-risk winemaking techniques utilized that elevate the results to mind-bending magic.

In 2004 there was only one wine that received the coveted 100 point rating—Bill and Alicia Deem's 2002 Buccella made by the incredibly talented Mark Herold. Again in 2005 there was only one wine I tasted all year that I felt deserved a perfect 100 point score—the 2002 SCHOLIUM PROJECT Sylphs Guman Vineyard. This is the Wine of the Year.

Unlike the singular Buccella, Schoener produced five wines under SCHOLIUM PROJECT that were released in 2005: The SYLPHS Chardonnay, ISEULT and SCHERIA Syrah from the Hudson Vineyard, BABYLON Petite Sirah from Tenbrink and GLOS Sauvignon Blanc. All of the wines were remarkable first releases and made Abe the leading candidate for 2005's top honor before the year was half over. Pragmatically, if there had been more cases available from the winery, all five of the SCHOLIUM PROJECT wines would have made the list. Vinfolio is honored to be part of the SCHOLIUM PROJECT phenomenon. If that isn't enough, Abe also makes the stunning Maldonado Chardonnay.

Abe Schoener arrived in Napa Valley in 1998 after leaving St. John's College on academic sabbatical where he had obtained his doctorate in ancient Greek philosophy and served as Assistant Dean. His first stint as a cellar rat at Stag's Leap Wine Cellars got him a job under the legendary John Kongsgaard at Luna where he became winemaker three years later. He left in 2004 to devote himself full-time to SCHOLIUM PROJECT.

Schoener's philosophical approach to winemaking is based on four primary notions: specificity of vineyards, non-intervention, undisturbed maturation, and vineyard designation. There is a mutual understanding between this winemaker and his growers which transforms this philosophy into a successful business model. Fermentations are allowed to move along as naturally as possible without inviting a "winemaking disaster." In barrel, the wines are rarely sulfured or topped. Some fermentations last as long as three years. Finally, the wine is labeled not according to the varietal but to the name of the vineyard and is given a proprietary name that helps translate Schoener's vision to the fortunate person who has the opportunity to enjoy a bottle.

Due to the extraordinarily small production, only the SYLPHS is available in 750ml bottles. In addition, a few double magnums of SYLPHS, ISEULT, and BABYLON are available.

THE WINES OF THE SCHOLIUM PROJECT

Vinfolio Wine of the Year 2005
2002 Scholium Project - SYLPHS Guman Vineyard (Chardonnay); Vinfolio rating: 100 points

One of the most incredible Chardonnays I have tasted from California. Harvested from John Guman's one-acre plot planted in 1970 by Nathan Fay. One of the extraordinary aspects of this wine is the dramatically long fermentation of thirty three months. Truly a wine sent from the gods. The richly scented nose is layered with roasted hazelnut, caramelized lemon peel, and honey. The palate is focused with beautiful acidity, quince, dusty white peach, nectarine and jasmine. The acidity in this wine sets it apart from most others that demand earlier consumption. 89 cases produced. Drink: 2005-2030. SOLD OUT

2003 Scholium Project - ISEULT Hudson Vineyard (Syrah); Vinfolio rating: 94 points
Iseult is a much softer Syrah from the same property as Scheria but fermented with a sunken cap instead of punch-downs then left to macerate for sixty-five days. The barrels are topped and lightly sulfured. It is a completely different creature. Iseult is absolutely brimming with tons of blueberry and spice with meaty, blackberry jam on the palate along with spicy vanilla bean. 42 cases produced. Drink: 2005-2013. Available in 3.0L only

2003 Scholium Project - BABYLON Tenbrink Vineyards (Petite Sirah); Vinfolio rating: 93 points
This is made from 100% Petite Sirah in Solano County and created from two and half barrels. You guessed it -- one barrel was kept half full purposely for topping purposes, as well as the micro-oxygenated characteristics. It is all about ripe lushness. Meaty and smooth with lead pencil, blueberry, soft caramel and vanilla. 44 cases produced. Drink: 2007-2020. Available in 3.0L only

2004 Scholium Project - GLOS McDowell Vineyard (Sauvignon Blanc); Vinfolio rating: 94 points
Picking 1,000 pounds of grapes bunch by bunch proved to be a painstaking effort from these 40 year old vines. There is a unique grafting process done on the rootstock where Merlot grows on the same vine as Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. This is what Abe calls "the Easter Egg Hunt." The old vines ripen early and fully while the others are at a slower pace. The nose is redolent of buttered nuts, with creamy suppleness. On the palate the flavors of stone fruit are accented by pure mineral crispness with delicious jasmine and herbal notes. 18 cases produced. Drink: 2005-2014. SOLD OUT

2002 Scholium Project - SCHERIA Hudson Vineyard (Syrah); Vinfolio rating: 96 points
This wine is sourced from Lee Hudson's Carneros property. 100% Syrah that spent 33 months in barrel with six inches of head space! It is 100% free-run juice. It shows a nose of smoky meat, tar, blackberry, blueberry and chocolate. It is very concentrated with a supple mid-palate, a long vibrant finish with amorphous tannins. Overall: an ethereal experience. 71 cases produced. Drink: 2009-2035. SOLD OUT




VINTAGE
WINE
SIZE
PRICE
RATING
2002
Scholium Project - SYLPHS Guman Vineyard SOLD OUT
3.0L
$500
VF 100
2003
Scholium Project - ISEULT Hudson Vineyard
3.0L
$500
VF 94
2003
Scholium Project - BABYLON Tenbrink Vineyards
3.0L
$500
VF 93

VINFOLIO REVIEWS: the TOP 25 OF 2005

Vinfolio Wine of the Year 2005
2002 Scholium Project - SYLPHS Guman Vineyard (Chardonnay); Vinfolio rating: 100 points

One of the most incredible Chardonnays I have tasted from California. Harvested from John Guman's one-acre plot planted in 1970 by Nathan Fay. One of the extraordinary aspects of this wine is the dramatically long fermentation of thirty three months. Truly a wine sent from the gods. The richly scented nose is layered with roasted hazelnut, caramelized lemon peel, and honey. The palate is focused with beautiful acidity, quince, dusty white peach, nectarine and jasmine. The acidity in this wine sets it apart from most others that demand earlier consumption. 89 cases produced. Drink: 2005-2030. SOLD OUT

2003 Blackbird - Merlot, Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley (Premiere release); Vinfolio rating: 98 points
Blackbird Vineyard is one of the most significant Merlot sites on the planet. In 2003, the vineyard changed hands and new owner Michael Polenske and winemaker Sarah Gott carved out a miniscule amount of fruit to begin his legacy. Most of the fruit that year went to Shafer, Behrens & Hitchcock, Viader, and Lail but Mia Klein (Selene) solidified the reputation of outstanding quality. The nose reminded me of powdered strawberry and blueberry sifted into a chocolate brownie, laced with ginger snaps, underplayed by the faintest hint of kaffir lime zest and rich coffee. The palate is flawlessly smooth showing amazingly pure blueberry and cherry nectar with seamless integration of the aromas. The sweet finish with high acidity propels this wine into a very rare territory. The sublime finish is that of a rich triple espresso and creme de cassis. La dolce vita! Is there a better Merlot produced in America? Drink: 2005-2010. SOLD OUT

2003 Dierberg - Pinot Noir Estate, Santa Maria Valley; Vinfolio rating: 97 points
Dierberg Estate Pinot Noir is the top wine of this varietal I have encountered this year. On the property there are 10 clones matched to 25 distinctive blocks. After harvest, winemaker Nick de Luca carefully selects the best lots for this estate bottling. The nose blossoms as soon as the cork is pulled showing nice concentration; sap-laden sweet cherry and boysenberry with layers of spice and vanilla bean and low acidity. The palate is beautifully rounded cherry and loamy richness almost begging to be enjoyed by itself. The ripe roundness of the flavors merges nicely with the finish of spicy/sweet rhubarb and earth. Drink: 2005-2007.

2003 Maldonado - Chardonnay Los Olivos Vineyard, Napa Valley; Vinfolio rating: 96 points
Here is another project from Vinfolio's Winemaker of the Year 2005, Abe Schoener. Maldonado is the wine that put his talent on my radar. The 2002 Maldonado was in Vinfolio's "Top 20 of 2004," scoring 97 points.100% malolactic, 100% barrel fermented. The nose is toasty, buttered hazelnuts with soft lemon, mineral and wet stone scents. The mouth entry is soft and richly silky with lush, focused flavors of lemon flesh, apple and citrus blossom, with a drizzle of anise and vanilla bean on the finish. Drink: 2005-2010.

2004 Orin Swift - The Prisoner, Napa Valley; Vinfolio rating: 96 points
In 2001, David Phinney (assistant winemaker at Whitehall Lane) released his first wine from Orin Swift: 2000 Sauvignon Blanc Tofanelli Vineyard. I was fortunate to find this wine early and was one of the first to write about it (96 points, Top 20 Wines of 2001). That same year, Phinney released the first vintage of The Prisoner. Both of these wines garnered instant success and have advanced Phinney into the vanguard of "discovered" winemakers. Comprised of 51% Zinfandel, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Syrah, 10% Petite Sirah, and 3% Charbono, it is a blend that always offers great richness and enjoyable drinking. Succulent nectar-like fruit aromas (blueberry, nectarine, and cherry) with flavors of dark cherry, tobacco, sweet essences of boysenberry, espresso and chocolate.

2002 Revana Family - Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley; Vinfolio rating: 96 points
Dr. Madaiah Revana is a successful Cardiologist in Houston. His desire to have a vineyard in Napa Valley was shaped by a visit here in 1997. Once he decided this was the place, he dove in hard and hired the best winemaking and vineyard management team available. Vineyard Manager, Jim Barbour, has his boot-prints all over the valley and his name alone instantly commands notice when related to a new property. Paired with one of the most respected winemakers in the world, Heidi Peterson Barrett, big things were naturally expected. Jim developed the site into an eight block mix of four different varietals of the classic Bordelais with the exception of Merlot. Heidi's resume was already brimming with successes elsewhere, including Paradigm, Dalla Valle, Jones Family, Screaming Eagle, Grace, Amuse Bouche, Showket and her own La Sirena. Revana is next on the list. The nose is chock full of roasted black fruits, anise and mineral. Slight hints of beeswax enhance the silky, exotic impression on the nose with an ultra-smooth mouth feel of concentrated blackberry, cassis, and a long, sweet finish complemented by excellent acidity.

2002 Showket - Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville; Vinfolio rating: 96 points
Winemaker Heidi Peterson Barrett has been involved with this project from its very beginning. It has the honor of being the top-rated Cabernet Sauvignon I tasted in 2005. The nose is saturated with incredibly rich chocolate brownie, violet, lavender and flinty mineral scents. On the palate, there is dizzying complexity to the dark black fruits that are at once creamy yet dense with long smooth tannins. In my opinion, this is the best Showket Cabernet ever produced. Drink: 2005-2015.

2003 Adrian Fog - Pinot Noir Anderson Valley; Vinfolio rating: 95 points
Adrian Fog's 1998 Pinot Noir Floodgate Vineyard was the winery's premiere release earning 98 points and a spot on my "Top 20 list of 2000." Stewart Dorman and Jane Farrell continue to produce extremely intense wines. Their labor-intensive winemaking strategies prove to be worth the effort. Vinfolio is proud to be the exclusive Napa Valley retailer for Adrian Fog. I found a decadent richness throughout with sour cherry and earth on the nose, evoking thoughts of Burgundy. On the palate, there is a huge dollop of sweet cherry hard candy, cola and ginger-like spice. Beautiful in every way, it shows excellent length and sophistication. Drink: 2005-2015.

2003 Derbes - Pinot Noir Russian River Valley; Vinfolio rating: 95 points
Cecile Derbes has certainly made me smile lately with her wines. Her 2001 and 2002 Russian River Chardonnays are delicious and have appeared in prior issues of the Wilder Side of California. The nose bursts with gorgeous aromatics of orange-scented spice box, dense cherry and tar. The mouthfeel is seamlessly smooth with a fat richness on the mid-palate continuing with mineral and smoky cherry. This is beautifully balanced wine with a long finish. Drink: 2005-2012.

2002 Detert Family - Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville, Napa Valley (Premiere release); Vinfolio rating: 95 points
This vineyard has been farmed by four generations of winemaker Tom Garrett's family. Their tiny production had originally been based on Cabernet Franc but Cabernet Sauvignon has recently been added. The pedigree of location is certainly evident; the fruit doesn't get much better. Top it off with Tom's mentors—Larry Turley, Ehren Jordan and most recently Heidi Barrett and this is a wine to be reckoned with. Classic Oakville Cabernet, lots of chocolate cocoa, cherry and rich black fruit. Densely packed on the palate with rich loamy flavors of black dates and chambord. Downright sinful. Drink: 2005-2013.

2002 Kamen - Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County; Vinfolio rating: 95 points
Noted screenwriter Robert Kamen came to Sonoma County and discovered "the place" he knew he needed to be to make a world-class wine. Through years of development including moments even Hollywood could not re-create, Kamen has emerged as a serious player in small production Cabernet Sauvignon. He recently hired Mark Herold (owner of Merus, and winemaker of Buccella, Vinfolio's 100 point Wine of the 2004, along with Harris, Hestan, and Kobalt) to make his wine, replacing the very talented Karen Turjanis. Robert is extremely excited about the things Mark is doing in the winemaking coupled with Coturri's vineyard management. Expect to see a Syrah added to the lineup from Kamen in the 2004 vintage. On the heels of the 2001 Kamen Estate (a 2004 Top 20 Wine) the 2002 takes on hints of Mark Herold, who performed the final blending. Supple and smooth, with aromas of currant, minty plum, chocolate, good acidity and backbone. Drink: 2006-2015.

2004 Selene - Sauvignon Blanc Hyde Vineyard, Carneros; Vinfolio rating: 95 points
Mia Klein's work with Musque clone Sauvignon is another work of art. A perfect growing season yielded magnificent fruit possessing a nose of sweetly exotic blossoms, tropical melon, fresh apple, nectarine and a vibrant minerality. This is a very exciting wine that belongs in every cellar as an example of world class Sauvignon Blanc. Drink: 2005-2007.

2003 Stolpman - Syrah Hilltops Estate, Santa Ynez; Vinfolio rating: 95 points
Sashi Moorman is making a name for himself at Stolpman producing some extraordinary wines. This is a wine showing some very special qualities. Pretty peach nose, with hints of wild berries, probably derived from the primary racking onto fresh Roussanne lees. The nose and palate are filled with sumptuous violet, caramel, and cappuccino. Powdered white pepper and sweet on the palate with smooth chocolate. Drink: 2005-2010.

2003 Woodenhead - Pinot Noir Wiley Vineyard, Anderson Valley; Vinfolio rating: 95 points
Woodenhead winemaker Nick Stez worked for 17 years at Williams Selyem before creating his own brand. He continues to work wonders with Pinot Noir from old vine sources in the area. The Wiley displays a beautiful nose of soft vanilla and cherry blossom, with an exotic spiciness. Very delicate on mouth entry with a pretty sense of elegance. Higher acidity holds together beautifully.

2002 Arcadian - Pinot Noir Dierberg Vineyard, Santa Maria; Vinfolio rating: 94 points
Joe Davis began the pilgrimage that led to the founding of Arcadian with a bottle of 1978 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Domaine Dujac. That single bottle started a journey that culminated in the launching of his own winery in 1996 which specializes in Burgundian style Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Dierberg is an especially delicious example of Santa Maria fruit. This is the second example from this vineyard recognized in this year's list. One whiff of the wine is all you need to be captivated; the perfume is indescribably exotic, the closest would be rose petals spritzed with the barest trace of honey leading into a bottomless core of sweet cherry and bright cranberry. The concentration is notable in this wine as it pulls everything together seamlessly with tremendous length to the juicy pomegranate and dark cherry finish. Drink: 2005-2012.

2003 Favia - Pinot Noir La Josefina, Russian River Valley; Vinfolio rating: 94 points
Annie Favia and her husband Andy Erickson are two of the bright stars of the ultra-boutique North Coast underground winemaking community. La Josefina, named for their daughter, is sourced from Westside Road (one of the hot spots of Russian River near Bacigalupi, Rochioli and Williams & Selyem Vineyards and farmed by the fanatical John Bucher). Annie calls this area the "Rodeo Drive of Pinot Noir." The wine is ruby-garnet in color with aromas of spicy leather, wild violet, crushed cherry and raspberry with pristine flavors of subtle black cherry, tar, creamy hints of perfectly framed lavender, kirsch and boysenberry coupled with brilliantly balanced acidity. Hours after opening the bottle, my glass is still holding together beautifully, yielding some fascinating elegant nuances. Drink: 2005-2017.

2004 Melville - Pinot Noir Estate, Santa Rita Hills; Vinfolio rating 94 points
I tasted this wine before attending the inaugural Celebration of Santa Rita Hills where I had the chance to spend some time with winemaker Greg Brewer tasting the full range of Melville wines. This is a magical Pinot to get lost in. A lush, focused nose of red and blue fruits shows well integrated mineral and hints of cinnamon and spice. The palate of black cherry, blue plum and berries is balanced with finely wrought acidity. Drink: 2005-2010.

2003 Piedrasassi - Syrah California; Vinfolio rating: 94
Sashi Moorman and Peter Hunken of Stolpman Vineyards have created a breathtaking Syrah sourced from a number of exquisite vineyards in the south central coast. Intense boysenberry, with hints of leather, bitter chocolate with white pepper, mineral vanilla bean on the nose. The palate is built for aging with firmly defined, densely packed fruits. Smooth rounded finish with essence of preserved plum spice. Drink: 2007-2014.

2002 Showket - Sangiovese, Oakville; Vinfolio rating: 94 points
Leave it to the legendary Heidi Barrett to produce an incredibly luscious Sangiovese from Showket. The 2002 exceeds even my high expectations. The nose shows immense richness redolent of black cherry, crunchy cranberries, mouth watering cassis, and soft fragrant plum. There is a backbone of gooey briar and earth scents. The flavors of black cherry, dark plum and cassis show superb concentration with a silky mouth-feel and a luscious finish. Drink: 2005-2010.

2002 Tres Sabores - Zinfandel Rudy Zuidema, Rutherford; Vinfolio rating: 94 points
Julie Johnson is one of the most innovative winery owners you've probably never heard of. How could that be? For the most part, it's due to the fact that her brand (which translates to "three tastes") is created by a trio of winemakers who use Zinfandel from Julie's Westside Rutherford property. The example made by Rudy Zuidema (Ehlers Estate, Robert Craig), has been one of my favorites. It usually shows a beefier, more extracted rustic feel than either of the other winemakers. In 2002, Zuidema produced a Zinfandel so luscious it nearly defies description. From the first whiff, the thick, luscious aromas of pure, racy boysenberry, exotic cassis, and tar dare you to take a sip before just sticking your nose in the glass again. Once it is on the palate, you'll want to immediately check the level of the bottle to see how much is left of this delicious youngster. The flavors merge seamlessly with the aromas, adding a surprising splash of perfectly ripe white peach and finely defined acid. As Zinfandels go, this one is a marvel.

2002 Diamond Terrace - Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain District; VF rating: 94 points
When Diamond Terrace debuted in 1999, I described it as having "...tarry and toasted scents evoking mocha and creme brulee and the palate offering bold dark cherry liqueur-like flavors, elegantly proportioned with good tannins for aging. 247 cases produced. 95 points." The two following vintages, 2000 and 2001, sold out extremely quickly. Along with the release of 2002, the Taylors announced the appointment of Thomas Brown, formerly Turley Assistant Winemaker, as their winemaker. Wine production and barrel storage will soon migrate to Howell Mountain's Outpost Winery. The new location will be very close to the Taylors' Eagle Summit Vineyard. The 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon is a stunning example of this steeply terraced mountain fruit. Dark purple/black in color, lush, polished and concentrated, it displays gobs of blackberry, currant and mocha in the nose with seductive hints of powdered licorice. On the palate, wild anise and rich black plum/fig with touches of herb introduce the flavors of smooth creamy blackberry and smoky rich black stone fruit.

2003 Ancien - Pinot Noir Russian River Valley; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
Winemaker Ken Bernards is on a tear. His work with Pinot Noir has been excellent this year from what I have tasted. As soon as it was poured, I could smell the fragrant sassafras bark two feet away. The compelling aromas are supported by copious black cherry and hints of sweet herbs. With time in the glass, seamless elegance takes over. It is beautifully balanced. Drink: 2005-2011.

2003 Auteur - Pinot Noir Momtasi Vineyard, Willamette Valley, Oregon; Vinfolio rating: 93
An Oregon wine needs to pretty special to crack this list, but the work of Winemaker Ken Juhasz can't be ignored. Juhasz is a new producer in Sonoma (he also makes the Donum Estate wines). What he is doing is somewhat un-conventional—trucking just picked Oregon fruit from small, heavily thinned vineyards in Willamette Valley to Sonoma where they are vinified. Momtasi is planted primarily to Dijon 115 resulting in a wine that is seductively smooth and richly sweet on the nose. Blueberry, plum extract, spicy chocolate and sandalwood on the palate. Very approachable, with a distinctive, black raspberry finish. Drink: 2005-2012.

2003 Melka - Cabernet Sauvignon CJ, Napa Valley; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
Philippe Melka makes wine for some of the top properties in the Napa Valley: Bryant, Vineyard 29, Hundred Acre, Marston and Lail. He uses fruit from all of his clients to produce his own wine, Melka. His children, Chloe and Jeremy are the "CJ" behind the brand and contribute the art for the label every vintage. Of all the CJs I've tasted, this is by far my favorite. The nose offers up creamy vanilla and dark cherry with hints of violet and herbs. The palate has excellent structure, black cherry, dark currants and blackberry building to a smooth concentrated experience. Drink: 2005-2013.

2004 Patz & Hall - Chardonnay Durell Vineyard, Russian River Valley; Vinfolio rating: 93 points
Patz & Hall is dedicated to producing small amounts of superb Burgundian varietals from California utilizing the myriad talents of the four owners and sources a growing number of small vineyards. From their inception there has been a steady stream of highly acclaimed wine coming from this producer. Their fruit sources stretch from Pisoni Vineyards in the Santa Lucia Highlands near Monterey to the high altitude Alder Springs in Mendocino. Planted with the old Wente clone, which produces wonderful, old-world flavor profiles, The Chardonnay from Durell Vineyard consistently ranks among the year's top wines for me. The flax-gold color gives way to aromas that are bold and flinty with mineral and butter cream essences. The toasty new French oak adds a spicy dimension to the flavor shadings of sweet hay, honey, citrus and wet stone. Drink: 2005-2008.

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