Being in this business is like being ten years old, having $20 in quarters and being let loose in an arcade without adult supervision...it rocks! For the last couple of weeks, I've been trying some insanely super (albeit off-the-beaten-path) wine that maintains my theory that if you really care about your grapes, you'll make great wine. You'll notice a couple of favorites from issues past that deserve to be re-visited. The Ayala Brut Zero & Rose (VF 92 & 91, respectively) because it's that time of the year and the ethereal delicacy and purity of bead on these bubblies are magnificent with the onset of late Spring/early Summer. The Biondi-Santi 2001 Brunello di Montalcino (VF 91) because it is the pure and traditional expression of what has made the Brunello di Montalcino appellation great and is drinking so very well right now.

Fine Wine for BBQ Time
Yes, I'm listing to the red side of the boat and offer no excuses...I've been a BBQ fiend over the last couple of weekends and am finding these wines to be enormously satisfying when accompanying grilled flesh (ok, a couple of charred fungi, too.) Lay your hands on the Nugan Family 2006 "Manuka Grove" Durif (VF 93), the Greppi-2005 Greppicante (VF 92), Umani Ronchi 2003 Rosso Conero "Cumaro" (VF 92) or the Contrade di Taurasi 1999 Taurasi Riserva (VF 91) for some rip-roaring matches.

The Rustic Cousin of Montalcino & More from Italia
Italy is obviously well represented this week, again, but I can't resist! Along with the aforementioned candidates, I fell hard for the silky smooth notes of the Dei duo. Dei is one of the more elegant and civilized styles of what is considered the 'rustic' cousin of Montalcino...they don't get much respect, but one sip of these Sangiovese and you'll be glad you took a chance.

I was given one last shot at some more of the Seghesio 2004 Barolo "La Villa" (WA 92), so don't delay. It is such a great deal and performs superbly in the cellar.

Southern Hemisphere Comfort
You'll recall a bit about the Stark-Conde 2005 "Twin Peaks" Syrah (VF 92), but I'm ringing that bell, again, too, because it's decided that it's bikini season and time to bare-it-all! All the right curvaceous deliciousness in all the right places, this is the perfect wine to bring your friends if they are in the mood for some Southern Hemisphere comfort.

The Lone White
The one white today is an extraordinary Sancerre from the 5-star 2005 vintage and one of the top domaines in the Loire. Henry Natter is an ex-military sort of gent (though he still is a reservist and is part of the volunteer fire department in his village of Montigny), but is very effusive, passionate and charismatic. These qualities are deftly transferred to his wine, which is a beautiful and timeless rendition of a classic favorite. Do not miss the 2005 Sancerre "Francois de la Grange" (VF 94). Only a couple hundred cases are made, and not much makes it to our shores.

One to Buy By the Case
Now for the clincher...last year we probably ripped through 25 cases of the 2005, and the 2006 is proving to be generating the same amount of interest, and why not? A top Cotes-de-Nuits Villages for only $26 and built to last - the Frederic Magnien 2006 "La Croix Viollette" Cotes-de-Nuits Villages (BH 86-89). This is a true "by-the-case" wine that showcases ripeness, refinement and sophisticated depth and so much more reasonable than Pinot from California.