The long wait is almost over for some of the most anticipated wines ever. Vinfolio has the great pleasure to offer you the exclusive release of some truly extraordinary wines in custom magnum format:
The 2006 Pinot Noirs produced by Kenneth Juhasz, Vinfolio’s 2006 Winery of the Year, Auteur.
From the outset, it was clear these wines were going to be good. What I didn’t realize when I first tasted them in barrel during the quiet days of January was that they would become as remarkable as they are now. To fully appreciate what comes later; let us start at the beginning.
The first impressions
I had the good fortune in June 2005 to be exposed to the initial Pinot Noir releases;
2003 Momtasi Vineyard (VF 93), 77 cases produced
Hyland Vineyard (VF 92), 145 cases produced.
As I am writing now I reflect back on this premiere and ask myself, “What was it that made these wines stand out then?” So I reviewed my notes and the answer was staring me in the face – It turns out they were only the 53rd and 54th wines I had ever tasted for Vinfolio, and more to the point, the first Pinot Noir. So effectively these were my benchmark wines for the varietal that everything else would be judged against going forward. I began buying deeply into these wines and our clients loved the quality. Since then, Kenneth has continued to turn up the wick creating the following wines in succession:
2004 Hyland Vineyard – VF 93, 195 cases produced
2004 Shea Vineyard – VF 92, 72 cases produced
2005 Sonoma Stage – VF 96, 72 cases produced
2005 Shea Vineyard – VF 100, 171 cases produced
2005 Hyland Vineyard – VF 95, 125 cases produced
Defining perfection - 2005 Auteur Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard
The 2005 vintage was a whirlwind year for us and Auteur. By early September, the sheer quality of Kenneth’s wines could not be ignored; In its premiere release, Sonoma Stage, Auteur’s first California Pinot Noir could credibly compete with, if not exceed the quality of some of the most revered producers in America. Those who took notice of this emerging boutique producer in the beginning recognized the train had now left the station and those who were not on it were shaking their heads over the missed opportunity.
What happened shortly thereafter In mid October was something that a year before I would have given little chance of manifesting: an Oregon wine being evaluated with my highest score of the year. The release of Kenneth’s 2005 Auteur Shea Vineyard did more than confirm it was a beautiful wine. Beginning in the spring of 2006 when it was still a fledgling barrel sample it already was at least equal to the highest scoring pair of Pinot Noir I had ever reviewed for Vinfolio: 2003 Arcadian Dierberg, VF 98 and 2003 Dierberg Estate, VF 96. And it was not due for release until Fall. The only question left was “How much better will this be when finally released? It was a thought I tried to push to the corner of my perception realizing at some point this wine was going to need “to show up” for real and be looked at hard.
This question was answered over a period of 2 days in October when I decided I needed to grab a sample bottle and examine it intensely and objectively tracking down every flaw. What began taking shape was the realization that 2005 Auteur Shea was the most attractive wine I had tasted all year. The level it performed at was continually reinforced, in fact it just kept getting more complex with time. As you now know the 2005 Auteur Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir was the only wine I tasted last year that received a perfect 100 point score. Furthermore, Vinfolio’s opinion on the wine sent reverberations through the world of wine resulting in an increase of the currently traded value to 250% of the release price.
Perhaps it was not a coincidence that Auteur’s futures program for 2006 Shea Pinot Noir sold out in January 2007. In the Spring of 2007 Auteur released their 2005 Hyland which helped fill the abyss we were somehow coping with until Fall when Kenneth would once again challenge us with what I affectionately refer to as Etiquette Orange.
2006 – Unprecedented excellence
Early in 2007 I met with Kenneth to taste the 2006 Pinot Noir in barrel and discuss how they were evolving. In February, I shared with him my wish to do something unique for our clients concerning his wines. We discussed several ideas, but the one thing we decided to move forward on for this vintage was to produce a limited quantity of serialized magnums available only in a set of the four vineyard designates he produced; Hyland and Shea, from Oregon, along with Sonoma Stage, and the premiere release of Manchester Ridge from California. I tasted barrel samples several times in the spring and summer and there was plenty to like.
I finally got my hands on a finished set of the 2006 Auteur Pinot Noir in late August and settled into my office on a Wednesday evening to begin sampling and writing. Here are the results from my notes.
Day One
Within minutes of opening bottles it was evident the wines were showing very well considering they had only been bottled the previous week. Auteur Pinot Noir always open up with an hour or two of air or decanting and over that time I took my initial impressions. I set the gassed samples aside until I could return to them the following day.
Day Two
As soon as they were poured out, the wines were vital and beautiful, soaring like brightly-colored tropical birds. I began to write and as I did I realized the wines were all stunningly good. I made some more notes and compellingly, the wines had gained in dimension having 24 hours on them now. I was satisfied they wouldn’t get any better. I put the wines aside till the following day deciding not to gas since I wanted to see them shrivel up and fail me like so many wines that may only hold their freshness for an hour or two. The truth was I didn’t think I could handle them being any better.
Day Three
I opened the wines, poured two ounces in each of 4 glasses and gave all a cursory check. That was until the realization they were even more evolved 48 hours after opening. I felt an obligation to continue the notes and when the bottles were empty and I was done summarizing and tallying scores I sat there for a few moments contemplating the implications of what I had just written and realized three of the four wines had received perfect VF 100 point scores, an unprecedented achievement for a winery.
How good are they? In seventeen years of tasting professionally I have written about hundreds of excellent wines but until now I never had a reaction anything quite like what I experienced. It was the delicious privacy realizing at that moment I was in the presence of greatness. I had opened the door and Truth was staring me in the face.
Is the world ready? in spite of knowing they were coming... I wasn’t.
What makes these wines so special?
There are a few things to know about the significance of Vinfolio offering these limited number of magnum sets at this time.
They are an exclusive commission for Vinfolio clients, never before commercially produced by Auteur, labeled and wax sealed in orange.
At the time of offering, none of these wines are available outside the winery, Hyland and Shea are released commercially November 1, while Sonoma Stage and Manchester Ridge are due out in Spring 2008.
They are only available in serialized sets of four wines; sets are numbered 01 through 12 of 12 and signed by Kenneth Juhasz.
2005 Auteur Shea Vineyard, Vinfolio’s Wine of the Year 2006 is selling for 2.5 x what it released for 12 months ago.
Out of the four wines, there are three 100 point ratings.
2006 Auteur Pinot Noir Hyland Vineyard, Willamette Valley magnum; Vinfolio rating: 95 points
The second consecutive 95 point score from what is now Kenneth’s oldest source after four vintages. As of this writing there has been frenetic renewed interest shown in any existing Auteur wines on the market, most notably Hyland. The winery’s total production of Hyland in 2006 is 291 cases. Shows a dense nose of dusty blackberry, cassis and cinnamon sprinkled honeycomb. The palate is tightly focused with a very smooth core and acidity that comes on like a silken breeze. Finishes with pure black licorice, cherry and straight-razor thin nectarine with a hint of coffee bean. Drink 2008 – 2014
2006 Auteur Shea Vineyard, Willamette Valley magnum; Vinfolio rating: 100 points
On the heels of the stunning 2005 Auteur Shea Vineyard, the 2006 takes the taster to yet another level of purity and intensity. The first wine to achieve back to back 100 point scores from Vinfolio. The winery’s total production of 2006 Shea is 313 cases. Tasted over 48 hours, the wine continued to unfold revealing a complex interwoven mosaic: Lavender, cola, licorice with rich shadings of cherry and chocolate in the nose. The palate is abundantly smooth, richly sculpted lavender infused chocolate, plum and cherry. The finish is luxurious violet-hued, undulating Superfly velvet that lasts for nearly a minute. Drink 2008 – 2014
Please note: The following wines were tasted at a point far in advance (7 months) of their commercial release slated for Spring 2008. The winery’s decision for making these wines available in the spring instead of the fall leads me to approach evaluation with more of a conservative viewpoint than with either the Hyland, or Shea, both on the cusp of commercial release. This conservatism is not usually necessary as my reviews generally deal with wines in bottle, ready for release. I do not consider the following wines barrel samples as they are now bottled an at the exact same point as the other wines in evolution.
Manchester Ridge and Sonoma Stage are profound examples of American Pinot Noir and join the Shea as three perfect 100 point wines from one winery in one vintage. Something never achieved here.
2006 Auteur Pinot Noir Sonoma Stage Vineyard, Sonoma Coast magnum; Vinfolio rating: 100 points
The second release of Kenneth’s first California Pinot Noir under his label provides plenty of evidence that last year’s premiere was not a fluke. Off of the Hyde-owned Sonoma Stage site, we identified this wine last year as a significant newcomer. The winery’s total production of 2006 Sonoma Stage is 146 cases.
Showing a focused graphite and vanilla nose, with flecks of Seville orange, wild strawberry and juicy cherry. The mouth feel is delicate and silky smooth leading to a mid-palate showing silky grip to the mouth-filling black cherry, spicy violet and graphite. Drink 2009 – 2016
2006 Auteur Pinot Noir Manchester Ridge, Mendocino Ridge magnum; Vinfolio rating: 100 points
The Premiere Release: The first taste of this wine as a barrel sample in early February basically started a clock in my head that began counting down until the day I could eventually review and offer it to our clients. The clock has finally sounded the alarm signaling not an end but an auspicious beginning to this fledgling site that in the hands of Kenneth has resulted in one of the most delicious American Pinot Noir in memory. The winery’s total production of 2006 Manchester Ridge is 67 cases. Shows supple violet, graphite, white pepper and cola in the nose. The palate envelops with a cloud-like silky mouth entry; energized cherry, black raspberry, and coating tactile grip on the tongue. An expansive lush finish with fine acidity. Drink 2008 – 2018
Allocations are strictly limited to one set per client and are priced at $700.00 each.
Wines will be orderable from a Vinfolio offer available Thursday October 18, 2007.