2004 Bonneau du Martray - Corton-Charlemagne Chardonnay - France - Burgundy - Cote de Beaune - Corton - White - Grand Cru

Now that this is in bottle, it's even better than I originally thought with a still reserved yet elegant nose of white flower, green apple, pear and natural spice and wet stone notes that introduce detailed, fresh and wonderfully intense flavors that are exceptionally clean and bright, culminating in a bone dry finish replete with superb minerality. This is not as dense as the '05 but the purity here is really something to see and as noted last year, it's sufficiently structured that it will need the better part of a decade to reach its apogee. Note that there was a trace of reduction on the nose and this would benefit from 30 minutes in a decanter should you elect to try one anytime soon.

Sulphidey, pure and lively. (JR)

A focused beam, this white wraps its lime, mineral, apple and vanilla notes around a core of bracing acidity. Has intensity and balance, yet this is firm and crisp on the finish for now, with real stony length.